AWD Street Hardbody?

[lt1_performance]

After looking at it, the only problem I see is going to be moving the lower control arm cross member as its in the same spot as the axles will be in. I was thinking of cutting it loose and moving it toward the rear 4-5 inches along with the torsion bar cross member, which still gives me use of the factory torsion bars. Actually Im not sure how the rear adjuster is attached so maybe I could just shorten the bar. Might also be able to cut the LCA in half and making a plate to go between the two to offset the bushing end to the new LCA cross member position. The center section will be some sort of tube cross member with the mouting plates on it, have to mock it up to plan it out better.

[seang]

How is the frame on your truck, rust wise? What motor do you want to use?

There is the option of custom torsion bars, the stockers are on the soft side anyways; but that costs more money and I'm not sure what you are looking to "invest" (spent, never to be seen again lol) in this.

[lt1_performance]

Frames solid from what Ive seen, would like to switch to a VE30DE, I do mean the VE from a maxima with a custom intake and whatnot but It would have been easier if I already had the V6 transmission. But maybe just the KA24E to save time, with a good turbo it should make plenty of power and I can use my original transmission. I dont care to drop some cash into it as necessary, Im putting a 3-link for the rear suspension. Im trying to design a new front suspension but its slow in coming Ill pitch a sketches up here later for criticism..

[Desert Rat]

try a transmission and transfercase out of a 88 hb it has a divorced tf case

Thanks for your incorrect input.

All hardbodies use the same married TX10A Tcase.

You're thinking of a 80-86 720. Those were divorced

[lt1_performance]

Well it looks like I can move my control arm crossmember back 4-5 inches with no clearance issues and section the lca's to keep alignment. Im think i can also modify this crossmember to hold the rear side of the front diff with a drilled plate mounted on it. The front side will be custom crossmembered i guess. With that outta the way, I have three Ideas for the driveshaft to adapt the nissan transmission to the awd case... (sorry for the crappy paint drawings, its the best way I could think to describe these..)The first ones like a regular really short driveshaft, the second is the two yokes with a u-joint in the middle, and the third is a straight solid adapting sleeve.
Which looks like the better option? Im worried about driveline angle of course but both the transmission and transfer case will be solid mounted or at least on poly bushings. Oh by the way, the input shaft on the will be the front yoke (or a cutoff for half the sleeve in the third picture) to hook up the nissan transmission and the rear will be a chevrolet front yoke (or cutoff) turned backwards with a cutoff rear tailshaft splined and welded in it. If that makes any sense... Anyways I just dont want to bind the driveline up and break a bunch of parts, especially the custom parts cause then I gotta remake em.

[lt1_performance]

Thinking into the front diff, Im wondering if a solid axle swap would work with the stock ride height of the truck. This would make the awd swap so much easier, I was thinking dana 30/35 in the front? Anybody think it will sit low enough?

[seang]

For the adapter, I don't want to say that I am exactly sure, but the single u-joint looks like it could handle the angle at least, what angle there would be anyway.