AWD 240sx RBxxDET(T) swap!

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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placham
Posts: 664
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2006 6:54 am
Car: 1992 Geo Prizm (4AFE)---Gone
1990 Nissan 240sx Coupe (RB20DET powered),
1994 Toyota Celica GT (3SGTE swapped), 1995 Nissan 240sx KA24DE,
2011 Nissan Sentra SER Spec-V

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I know this is an old thread, but was curious. How does one mount the crossmember up front, is there a guide of some kind. Im at a point where I got crossmsmber and bay stripped out. Placing xmember onto old ones mounting points places xmember too far forward. And noticed member from r32 is bit narrower in a s14, maybe 1/8" bolt holes. Was just curious how xmemeber gets mounted as holes need to be drilled for it. And everywhere I see old member studs hang in new member where axles would go. Talked to full race about possibly buying their r14 rail sleeves but they wont sell out of kit, and kit was last time I checked about 4.5K . 26 is still sitting in 32 half cut along with subframe and such, I got spare member for fitment and such.

Thanks,
Matt


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HxC_Nismo
Posts: 1036
Joined: Sat Sep 23, 2006 10:26 am
Car: '98 Nissan 240SX SE R33 RB26DET
'07 Nissan Titan SE
'05 Toyota Corolla
Location: Missouri
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i believe if you have an s14, you are suppose to use the R33 crossmember and on the s13 you use the r32 crossmember. Thats all i really know about the subframe install.

ItzGenX
Posts: 1204
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 7:46 pm
Car: Smoke Purple 95' S14.5. Powered by the "Iron Man".
Location: Gulfport, MS
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I use the BNR32 front subframe and shock towers on my S14. The key to positioning is to have the upper arm mounted to the shock tower as you try to position everything. The shock towers MUST be orientated in relation to the subframe or you will never be able to bolt on the upper arms when it is all said and done. This is how i zeroed in the location where my shock towers will ultimately be welded down. As one big unit and a lot of clamps with a helping hand, jack the whole subframe up to the bottom of the car and slide it forward/backwards where u want it, the shock towers will follow. The ending position should center the wheel hub in the arch when the lower control arm is raised to be level with the subframe. If I remember correctly, there is a threaded hole per side that will almost line up, but it will not allow a bolt to pass through cleanly since the S14 frame rails are a hair wider. Bolting straight up to the frame rail flush is also impossible anyway since plates will need to be welded to the bottom of the rails in order to level out the subframe front to rear. The rear mounting points will need tapered plates since the subframe will be mounted far enough back where the frame rail begins tapering downwards toward the rear of the car. I made my 4 plates to be welded on the frame rail with holes drilled and jigged to fit onto the subframe perfectly with steel square tubing to keep all 4 in their positions and squared. Then I clamped this to the car where I marked the locations on each side and welded them. Since the plates already had holes as a stencil, I drilled clean through the frame rails from the bottom after they were welded on. From there, I drilled out the new upper holes to allow a 1/2" ID steel pipe to drop down into the hole, then welded over the tops of the pipe to the frame rail as well as covering with a thin plate to spread load. The pipe is to prevent the frame rails from being smashed under the clamping pressure when the bolts are torqued. This is all of course in reference to my S14. An S13 has a slightly shorter frame rail, so I do not know if all of this can/will apply. Overall if I had to do it to an S13, I would follow the same methods. It technically fits for both cars, but measuring etc is key. In an S13, the shifter location may be different a little, so zeroing where the front tires sit is the best bet.


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