Apexi Universal grounding system

[4AM]

I recommend this! I received mine finally this morning and after installing the main cebtral plate and only the chassis ground, manifold ground, cylindar head ground. I am astounded, its starts on the first click of the starter( starter is new also), acceleration has improved and the lights interior and exterior are bright as hell! I was iffy about spending that much money at first for ground wires, but it is well worth it. Especially if you are running alot of aftermarket electronics. Along with the new C-West Hyper Voltage Stabilizer I am very pleased with the results of my overhauled electrical system. If you have problems with your electrical system I highly recommend these products!

[evildky]

a grounding kit is snake oil, if you have broken or missing grounds it can help restore missing ground connections or you could just fix the problems

[4AM]

There is alot of damage to my electrical, from previous owners. I don't even know if everything is grounded, or loose. So it seemed like a quicck fix.

[AZ-ZBum]

There is alot of damage to my electrical, from previous owners. I don't even know if everything is grounded, or loose. So it seemed like a quicck fix.

The ground wire on the Z31 is a big fat wire that runs from the battery to a point on the firewall right behind the battery to the bolt connecting the starter to the transmission. This is a huge wire that allows for a lot of current draw. If this wire is compromised, then it might lead to all the problems you were describing.

I, too, feel those grounding kits are pure bulls***. It would have been far cheaper to replace the ground wire with a brand new one from the dealership than to buy those stupid kits that don't offer the same amount of current draw as a new wire would.

The stock wire is around a 3/0 or 4/0 gauge wire. I'd be surprised if the wire connected to the battery for the kit was thicker than 8 gauge.

And can you post pictures of this spiderweb you have put under your hood?

[4AM]

The ground wire on the Z31 is a big fat wire that runs from the battery to a point on the firewall right behind the battery to the bolt connecting the starter to the transmission. This is a huge wire that allows for a lot of current draw. If this wire is compromised, then it might lead to all the problems you were describing.

I, too, feel those grounding kits are pure bulls***. It would have been far cheaper to replace the ground wire with a brand new one from the dealership than to buy those stupid kits that don't offer the same amount of current draw as a new wire would.

The stock wire is around a 3/0 or 4/0 gauge wire. I'd be surprised if the wire connected to the battery for the kit was thicker than 8 gauge.

And can you post pictures of this spiderweb you have put under your hood?

I'm still in search of our cameras charger, but I'll find a digi camera to borrow... but the wires are 4 gauge, and the firewall and chassis factory grounds are exactly the same, but the others are an improvement. You know I'm not trying to build a "Nice" car to drive to work, this car is an addition to our line up for SCCA events.

And why do you want pics of ground wires?!?... I would think you'd seen acouple? they're copper, rubber coated and attach to the battery... is it coming back to you yet???
Modified by 4AM at 7:24 AM 5/17/2009

[evildky]

I think he asked for pic's to see how much mess the wiring added to the already cluttered engine bay, or perhaps to see the condition of your battery cables, stock replacements are not very expensive and worth every penny

[4AM]

I think he asked for pic's to see how much mess the wiring added to the already cluttered engine bay, or perhaps to see the condition of your battery cables, stock replacements are not very expensive and worth every penny

I believe he's calling me a liar. And I have nothing to prove so...

[4AM]

The ground wire on the Z31 is a big fat wire that runs from the battery to a point on the firewall right behind the battery to the bolt connecting the starter to the transmission. This is a huge wire that allows for a lot of current draw. If this wire is compromised, then it might lead to all the problems you were describing.

I, too, feel those grounding kits are pure bulls***. It would have been far cheaper to replace the ground wire with a brand new one from the dealership than to buy those stupid kits that don't offer the same amount of current draw as a new wire would.

The stock wire is around a 3/0 or 4/0 gauge wire. I'd be surprised if the wire connected to the battery for the kit was thicker than 8 gauge.

And can you post pictures of this spiderweb you have put under your hood?

Wow, all these factory facts are great considering I'm not trying to do any of it. The point was to eliminate the "Spiderweb" you refer to. You think I'm leaving all that s*** under there? And such wires as the alternater ground(at best was 12g.) is better grounded with a 4g, its that simple. The aftermarket volts gauge is even more acurate (according to the service manuals suggested output).

[AZ-ZBum]

I believe he's calling me a liar. And I have nothing to prove so...

Actually, I'm calling you an idiot first. Then I'm calling you a liar.

Do you even own a Z31? Or any of the other cars you claim to own? I have always had my doubts about you. You've always sounded like a 15 year old chump.

[4AM]

Actually, I'm calling you an idiot first. Then I'm calling you a liar.

Do you even own a Z31? Or any of the other cars you claim to own? I have always had my doubts about you. You've always sounded like a 15 year old chump.

Yeah I figured out how to fake my VIN.... on your site. Ignorant I should admit, Nissans are new to me. Liar, I don't lie about anything, think about it, who would claim half the s*** I did without making a little more attaractiveness?!? And I'll own 2 Zs before the weeks out. Its a pity your to self centered to take an interest in my build. I have eccentric ideas and financial backing for them. It usually makes for a wonderfully performing auto.Oh, well. I got alot of work to do, after the trans went Saturday, I have to rethink my approach, I either have to do an engine and trans swap in 17 days or just get the stronger VG30s 5spd.... I'll get on here and "Lie" about it later.

[4AM]

I think he asked for pic's to see how much mess the wiring added to the already cluttered engine bay, or perhaps to see the condition of your battery cables, stock replacements are not very expensive and worth every penny

My engine bay is getting very organized and pleasant to view. My Z isn't troubled with power antenneas, stereos, heat or AC( which is irritating in the rain), interior luxuries, sun visors, cup holders or anything that moves around. Nothing across my dash but aftermarket gauges and an ignition. Oh a smaller Grant steering wheel... some loose change, I'm about to throw out the passenger seat too... nothing but weight.

[AZ-ZBum]

Ignorant I should admit, Nissans are new to me.

But you claim to be a mechanic. And at 34 years of age, you have surely been doing it for a while. So it would be hard to understand how Nissan's could be new to you. It's also hard to understand how you haven't realized that a car is basically the same as any other car.

Its a pity your to self centered to take an interest in my build.

If you had an actual build, I'd be interested. But so far, all you've done is make a bunch of bold claims and far fetched ideas (don't worry, you're not the first). You haven't shown anyone anything of what you've done. No pictures of the missing interior. No pictures of the grounding kit. Not even pictures of your actual car.

I have eccentric ideas and financial backing for them. It usually makes for a wonderfully performing auto.

Financial backing? You mean that loan you were going to take for the RB motor? That's not exactly what I would call a sound financial backing.

Oh, well. I got alot of work to do, after the trans went Saturday, I have to rethink my approach, I either have to do an engine and trans swap in 17 days or just get the stronger VG30s 5spd.... I'll get on here and "Lie" about it later.

A transmission swap will take far less than 17 days. Should only take less than 17 hours. Hell, a MECHANIC should be able to do it in less than four hours.

[4AM]

But you claim to be a mechanic. And at 34 years of age, you have surely been doing it for a while. So it would be hard to understand how Nissan's could be new to you. It's also hard to understand how you haven't realized that a car is basically the same as any other car.If you had an actual build, I'd be interested. But so far, all you've done is make a bunch of bold claims and far fetched ideas (don't worry, you're not the first). You haven't shown anyone anything of what you've done. No pictures of the missing interior. No pictures of the grounding kit. Not even pictures of your actual car.Financial backing? You mean that loan you were going to take for the RB motor? That's not exactly what I would call a sound financial backing.A transmission swap will take far less than 17 days. Should only take less than 17 hours. Hell, a MECHANIC should be able to do it in less than four hours.

Wow, I can't just sit threw this, but AZ knew that. Instead of Nissan lets just say I'm new to relay and eletrical messes.Pictures... Z Profile, there's nothing new, but enough to back me up.

Financial backing, not the engine loan... family loan(worse).And the now 16 days, I have to remove one trans,, drop off core, pick up other, pick up my other Z for donor parts and I still have to make a living in the meanwhile. Which once again consists of belt, hoses, heater cores, thermostats, oil changes. I do BS all day?!? But never the less I work on cars and own the shop....you act like I said I was the head of the local Ferrari shop.

You twist what I write, my fault for being vague I guess.

[4AM]

Believe it or not AZ motivates me, in my mind he represents all the people who say, Ýou can't do that?!?'. And I smile and do it anyways...

[AZ-ZBum]

Believe it or not AZ motivates me, in my mind he represents all the people who say, Ýou can't do that?!?'. And I smile and do it anyways...

So do it already.

I guess I didn't realize the grease monkeys at a Quick Lube were called mechanics. My bad.

[4AM]

Here's your pics, a**. Check ZProfile. ( Seeing is believing)

[AZ-ZBum]

Here's your pics, a**. Check ZProfile. ( Seeing is believing)

Those aren't '86 turbo wheels. They're from an 87-89 non-turbo.

Your trim is chrome, not black. How could you possibly think the trim is black?

[4AM]

I looked up some pics of turbos and they had those rims. I just assumed they were turbo... the cars I looked at were turbo aftermarket.And there was black trim around the door edges and wheel wells. That's what i thought you guys were talking about.

Did you like what I've done?

[AZ-ZBum]

evildky was very clear when he said "BLACK WINDOW TRIM"

all the stock wheels can be seen here:http://z31.com/wiki/doku.php?i...heels

Do I like what you've done? Sure. I guess. You gutted a car. You missed a couple panels though.

Remove the AC compressor bracket. That's a huge chunk of metal that's worthless now that the AC is gone.

Put the fan shrouds back on or switch to an electric fan. You're liable to overheat without it. Probably helped contribute to your transmission failure.

Get rid of those heavy powered leather seats.

[4AM]

Isn't the AC bracket also the Alternator bracket?

And yeah, I'm playing with which seats to go with, the factory ones are heavy as hell. The seat belts run through those last panels, so until I get the new seats (probably just seat) and harness I left'em.

The shroud was never there when I got it, As soon as I have the $ together, I've picked out A Mishimoto aluminum radiator with twin 12" electric fans, getting a new Mishimoto oil cooler too.

The trans was going from day one, it was only a matter of time. I've located acouple donor cars, once again, gotta save for week or two though.I have more time though, I'm skipping Autocross on the 7th, I'm taking my kids to local water park that day... I promised.

[4AM]

evildky was very clear when he said "BLACK WINDOW TRIM"

all the stock wheels can be seen here:http://z31.com/wiki/doku.php?i...heelsI see the difference now. They are similar though, wish I had all my center caps for the meanwhile.(There were only three when I got the car), so I took'em all off instead of them not matching, that stuff bothers me.

Do I like what you've done? Sure. I guess. You gutted a car. You missed a couple panels though.

Remove the AC compressor bracket. That's a huge chunk of metal that's worthless now that the AC is gone.

Put the fan shrouds back on or switch to an electric fan. You're liable to overheat without it. Probably helped contribute to your transmission failure.

Get rid of those heavy powered leather seats.

[4AM]

I did just order some Momo grip plates for the floor board, uh my feet keep sliding around now... alot! I assumed my driving shoes' heels would grip, not the case. I'm sure I could've got some cheaper grip plates but I liked the look of the Momos. I've been looking at their seats too, overpriced, but once again I like the look of a few. And they list the weight up front, so its easier to choose. I'll probably add a shifter knob and boot to complete the look. I'm going with the NISMO harness and I'd like a NISMO horn button too. There's no horns, its just for looks.

I'm having a roll bar(4 - 6 point) welded in before I do the seat and harness though.

AZ, what can I do about all the emissions and EGR I've blocked off and/or disconnected. I had located a place that closed off the manifold and removed the EGR and such, but I can't find the company now.

[Perrenial Badass]

The AC compressor bracket is the alternator bracket. That doesn't mean that you can't remove the bracket and cut off the top part. Instant weight reduction. Also, I know a guy parting an 87NA, if you would be interested in buying that alternator bracket (mounts under the PS pump, like the turbo cars).

There were a few companies like Engloid that made gutted plenums for the Z31, but most if not all are discontinued. You can find them occasionally on ebay. SATAN can make a custom manifold for you, pay him and I don't think he'd mind welding up some emissions and idle control holes. Personally I think that a blockoff plate and a gasket would work fine, and would allow you to return it to stock.

If your radiator and cooling system are in good working order you don't need to go aftermarket. Flush out your system and check for leaks if you have overheating issues. I know a few people running turbo'd NA engines with the NA radiator, they don't have any issues with overheating unless they are sitting in traffic with the AC on, even in Florida. No turbo and no AC means that you won't have any problems. If you really feel the need to add an oil cooler, then go with the one off of the turbo automatic. Probably will be cheaper than aftermarket, but remember to change out your oil pump for a turbo auto unit.

As for the grip plates... well, if you can't keep your legs where you want them then I think you have bigger problems than a substandard coefficient of grip. That harness and a seat with lateral support would help more than a grip plate.

[AZ-ZBum]

AZ, what can I do about all the emissions and EGR I've blocked off and/or disconnected. I had located a place that closed off the manifold and removed the EGR and such, but I can't find the company now.

No one makes them because that would be illegal by federal law. And there just isn't the market for such a low demand vehicle.

Buy a piece of sheet metal. Trace the part you're removing. Cut out and apply. Simple as that.

[4AM]

Where I live emissions are not checked, and I care very little about Federal guide lines, until i come face to face with those laws... But in the meanwhile, all the input was what I needed. Now to get that one stripped screw out of the top plenum. Thanks. Later until something else obscure occurs to me.

[4AM]

The AC compressor bracket is the alternator bracket. That doesn't mean that you can't remove the bracket and cut off the top part. Instant weight reduction. Also, I know a guy parting an 87NA, if you would be interested in buying that alternator bracket (mounts under the PS pump, like the turbo cars).

There were a few companies like Engloid that made gutted plenums for the Z31, but most if not all are discontinued. You can find them occasionally on ebay. SATAN can make a custom manifold for you, pay him and I don't think he'd mind welding up some emissions and idle control holes. Personally I think that a blockoff plate and a gasket would work fine, and would allow you to return it to stock.

If your radiator and cooling system are in good working order you don't need to go aftermarket. Flush out your system and check for leaks if you have overheating issues. I know a few people running turbo'd NA engines with the NA radiator, they don't have any issues with overheating unless they are sitting in traffic with the AC on, even in Florida. No turbo and no AC means that you won't have any problems. If you really feel the need to add an oil cooler, then go with the one off of the turbo automatic. Probably will be cheaper than aftermarket, but remember to change out your oil pump for a turbo auto unit.

As for the grip plates... well, if you can't keep your legs where you want them then I think you have bigger problems than a substandard coefficient of grip. That harness and a seat with lateral support would help more than a grip plate.

What does your buddy want for the bracket and how can I get in touch, how far are we shipping this piece? that would really free up space for tubing and even maintenance would be more accessable, love it.

And I'm sure your right about the seat and harness, I know the harness is really going to help out. I just want to have the roll bar welded in first, well I need something to mount the harness to, and my wife has an issue of my son being along on practice runs (he wears his helmet) but she has insisted on a roll bar. Its probably a good idea.
Modified by 4AM at 8:04 AM 5/26/2009

[Perrenial Badass]

He's located in Central Florida, and you'd have to ask him about the price. I will email his email to the address in your profile and let you two work out the details. Only thing to remember is that the stock wiring harness will not reach over there. You will probably want to just extend the wiring, if you run it along the crossmember with the AC lines you will need 2.5"-3" of wiring.

[4AM]

Thanks Badass, I'll check my emails...

[4AM]

No one makes them because that would be illegal by federal law. And there just isn't the market for such a low demand vehicle.

Buy a piece of sheet metal. Trace the part you're removing. Cut out and apply. Simple as that.

AZ, what gauge would you suggest? Should I use aluminum, the plenum is. Aluminum is alot easier to cut too... I dont have a machine shop, just a 3 set of shears.

[Perrenial Badass]

Guy I know stole a stop sign and cut that to work. So... whatever thickness that would be...