Anyone replace the front wheel bearings opn a 2WD?

[Pathy415]

Has anyone done this and how hard is it? I've heard it can be a pain getting the old races out and getting the new ones in unless I have a press(which I don't).

Thanks.

[ARKQX33V6]

I am surprised that no one has answered you as of yet, but replacing wheel bearings is easy.

Work in an area that is comfortable raise the front wheels and support the car safely Before removing anything with the wheels up and hanging grasp a wheel at 12 and 6 and push pull feeling for vibrations, then grasp at 3 and 9 and push pull again. There should be no looseness in any position.

With a 5' pry-bar under each wheel lift the wheel and hand on the strut area feel for vibration while lifting and dropping the wheel. There should be no vibration.

Under the car check the tie rods for slop and look over the main ball joints. Everything should be snug with zero excess movements.

Check CV boots for cracks and starting opening. Should be none. Things need to be changed if there are holes, wear os sloppy fit...and wheel bearings can fall into this category.

The clockwork hands on when vibration is noticed can be bearings but not always, but if everything else seems snug bearings are a good candidate.

If this is the first time for you, pictures and/or sketches can be used to clue you into how it was before you take things apart and as you take things apart. DO USE A DIGITAL CAMERA OR PHONE.

You have to strip down the wheel assembly and brakes. Use common sense, secure things and tie calipers out of the way. Note all the bolts, nuts, locking rings, caps and put them in order and in a place out of the way. 1st time takes a long time...take the time.

Eventually you will get to where the bearings ( inner and outer are ). All things can be disassembled and laid out in order of assembly and you are left with the hub and the bearings.

Worn bearings can create a difficult extraction or they fall out. If they fall out you have to know how the new ones go back in, the shape should indicate this, the bearing has an outer race that meets the body of the hub and the shape is designed to match up. A worn bearing may be stuck in. Here you need to match the OD of the outer surface to that of a pipe, a wooden dowel so you can punch it out. Hammer and cold chisel if you can reach in that far. Beating out an old bearing is easy but DO NOT HARM THE CARRIER of the bearing because the new bearing must seat within this area.

With both bearings out test them if still round, are they damaged, was that the problem, is there a flat spot, are they rough or smooth?

The new bearings, one at a time the correct one first take it into your clean hands, it should be greased with any covers on, if your old bearings had or had no covers install these bearing the same way, slowly rotate the inner race holding the outer race feeling for roughness or stiff areas, you may have to pack more grease. If the bearings are dry NO NOT SPIN THEM, they need to be repacked but not 100% full since when warm the grease needs room to expand.

Place into the hub correctly, remember how it looked before you removed them, pictures, sketches? You may have to push into place with a pipe, dowel or press depends on the tolerance of the bearing to the hub, but they must be square and in place.

Re-assembly in the correct order with the correct torque values is essential. As a first time doer be prepared for a 6-8 hour the first side, the timing will be 1/2 of this the second time now with experience.

Cleanliness is very critical as is patience. Everything fits together as a puzzle and needs no brute force. Be sure to preload both sides especially if you have a driving 4 x4. The preload will keep the sloppiness to a minimum as the system goes in and out of load while driving along.

Just before dropping the car test for vibrations and looseness as you did in the beginning and do not forget to degrease the rotors and calipers from your dirty hands.

[Pathy415]

Thanks so much for the detailed response ARKQX33V6!!

I did the wobble test a couple weeks back and there is the slightest play on both sides when performing the wobble test 3/9 and 12/6 which is why I was thinking about getting them done. A reputable shop nearby quoted me $400 to have new races and bearings installed, wonder if that's a good deal?

[ARKQX33V6]

With noticeable "Wobble" at around the clock you may simply need the bearings reset. But do check you tie rod inner and outer and establish the condition of the ball joints.

[oasisx]

In the How To section, someone made a topic about how to change your brakes/rotors. Included, they explained how to remove and replace your Wheel bearings i believe.


Here's the thread: how-to-replace-brake-rotors-and-pads-fo ... 45492.html

[Pathy415]

Yeah, I saw the how to but I think it was a 4wd and it's not very thorough for wheel bearing/race replacement.

I check the tie rods, bushings, and ball joints and they're fine.

[Towncivilian]

Yeah, I saw the how to but I think it was a 4wd and it's not very thorough for wheel bearing/race replacement.

I check the tie rods, bushings, and ball joints and they're fine.

Empty V has a 2WD. But yeah, the guide was intended for brakes so it's hardly a fault of the guide that it barely mentions how to do the wheel bearings.

[kazumaryu]

im having difficulty getting the hub and bearing out, is there any technique i should be using? thank you for any help

[atraudes]

Inside or outside bearing? They shouldn't be too hard to pull off, but I've had some that are a real bugger.