ANOTHER one bites the dust : x

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neverlift
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Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 6:26 am

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short story long rings and/or lands me mad ,cold motor, no warm up,10psi,sideways. POP, POP pop! let your motor warm up lol post picks of damage once pulled and broke down... anyone selling a kade around jax LMK asap(rather slap in a beat de over driving the civic) or just some pistons! plans to rebuild with **** from discount and go right back at it... this really fuct my spring build up and so do I


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sunnys14
Posts: 1600
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Car: S14

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Ouch, welcome to my life...

Get another spare motor and rebuild! Never back down!

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Zippy69
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Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2007 2:58 pm
Car: 1993 240sx coupe

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Man I hate to hear that. Hope you get it straight soon bro. Good luck

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neverlift
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sunnys14 wrote:Ouch, welcome to my life...

Get another spare motor and rebuild! Never back down!
look at the name, I dont/wont , I bough this car and less then a month later new I would ALWAYS rebuild if it was an option.... I'm already close to pulling the motor, but it was too cool again to get much done. This will be my first attempt at a rebuild, but I have an fsm an the people of nico(hoping ichi go is willing to lend me a hand).
Zippy69 wrote:Man I hate to hear that. Hope you get it straight soon bro. Good luck
well I'd liek to get another de motor that runs and be a bit more reasonable with the abuse(I mean digging the road with burnouts in front of my neighbors house and doing tons of other not so legal actions on daily basis, I asked for this), but I am not having luck finding any, I will be rebuilding this motor whatever happens(well I'll see when it gets open), either right now with a cheap stock rebuild or in feb witih forged pistons and a few other goodies.... I may be down but I'm far from out. I have the funds to do the upgrades now but thats my safety monies . Plus I kinda wanna push the stock limit again before a 'build' starts(nissanfanatic making 500whp on a stock block(well parts from a bunch of stock blocks from what I gather..)

anyone ever use a sealed power piston/ring kit?

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sunnys14
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Car: S14

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just get pistons and a headgasket, youll be good to go then.

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Zippy69
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Car: 1993 240sx coupe

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anyone ever use a sealed power piston/ring kit?

Yes, but only in the chevy's I've built. Good stuff for chevy, should be good for ka. Don't know for sure.

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yoshi_hito
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Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:05 am

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might as well get some rods while your down there

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neverlift
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sunnys14 wrote:just get pistons and a headgasket, youll be good to go then.
your the second to say that, so would it be optional to replace the rod and main bearings, or a requirement?(I know newb question but I have never rebuilt by myself before) if thats the case I may be able to get upgraded pistons now

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480sx
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Car: 1996 Pearl White 240sx

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Stock rods are fine till 350 hp, i wouldnt even bother with the turbo your running. Save your cash for something else IMO.

What was your setup, and tuning system?

Florida240sx
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
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Yea but now you can get eagle rods for 375shipped.I know os 3engines for sale down here for $500 come with accesories and transmission clutch together. 386-747-9982

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neverlift
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hey justin, find me a short block(block/pistons) I dont need the whole swap, I have good transmission and everything else... damn 500 that seems high. lmk if any of those guys are willing to drop price off and sell just a block/head and keep the accesories? 480sx, hawk's old motor is on here making 500 whp so I'm staying stock rods, pistons on the other hand I like the idea of a forged unit, but again stock rebuild is fine for me, the biggest turbo I'll use will be a t28 so nothing over 300whp for me, for a long time...

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spooled240
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Car: kouki s14

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you sure bro? I think you should just slap some new pistons and a head gasket like sunny said..it would probably be under 500 bills right?

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neverlift
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sure about what? I'm just slapping pistons if no motor comes thru fast enough. I'd like to swap and go that way if my skills as a rebuilder are **** I wont have down time. I originally planned to do a build in feb/mar but thats out now since some of that cash has to go to this. I am at a stopping point now, motor is ready to pull(much faster this time by myself) all but trans x member bolts to give extra angle.This is good timing for my clutch thats shyt all on my starter. as for head bolts I'm gonna try the local place that sells stud(high quality from what I heard), cause the stockers are stretch bolts and not reusable.

so sunny never got a straight answer
sunnys14 wrote:just get pistons and a headgasket, youll be good to go then.
? are my bearings reusable if they were fine, or should I just replace them? if its a dumb question my bad I'm new to rebuilds...

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stanza34
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Car: 1993 240sx ka24det /1996 g20/2003 g35 sedan

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if i were you i would replace your main and your rod bearings there not that expensive and there one of the easiest parts of a rebuild and the more they wear the looser the crankshaft gets and i would get some new main bolts to

Florida240sx
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
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For someone reaosn peopel are thinking ka's are gold mines now. everyone wants $500 for them I laugh at them. I use to pick them up for 2-250 then give $50 so they would bring it to me.

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neverlift
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lol tell me about it, the ones that are good deals get stolen lol, a guy on 240sx.net had his waiting for a buyer out back of stagesix, it was stolen. I was like zomg wtf I need that **** for 200 but you know it happens

what grade rod bolt and head stud should I go for?a place in town sells quality fasteners... as for rod and main bearings, I already came to the conclusion it wouldnt be wise on my part to not do them. Even thinking about going with some upgraded deals. Also decided I wont buy performance pistons.

another issue I think is going to come up is, the engine has been rebuilt already, how would I tell if the block has been bored or if my crank need oversized bearings? again sorry if this **** is newbish, I'm new to rebuilds... and cause I like this one

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Zippy69
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Car: 1993 240sx coupe

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First there should be a number stamped into the piston if it is an overbore. Like .10 or .20 etc.You can measure your bore with an inside micrometer, I know everybody has at least 5 in their pocket right now.lol If you are one of those people that don't have one, then I guess you run your block by a machine shop and they could measure it for you, and then you will know if you've been bored or not.Good luck and keep us posted.

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neverlift
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yeah I have been meaning to pick one up but thanks I didnt know, I can get one form harbor freight if I need it, one of the local guys has one I'm sure. I'll just bring my block when I take my crank, to wolfs house. I keep getting put back, I need to go buy or borrow one from hawk. I think my stock pvc may have played a roll in the failure(yeah it was cold out and the motor was just started...) it seems that my oil that was great looking last week is all burnt. I recall in the pcv woes thread somehting about 10psi ish and it fails to vent, so I'm takign care of that while its all apart. Going to vent it to atmosphere like orion(well respected in the kat wolrd around here). Alos pulled the stupid *** scv's out left the rod in cause I dont feel like j/b welding anymore ****(already did the ports for the scv and the egr port ), then smoothed some of the I/M casting marks. Flow ftw

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sunnys14
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bearings are $50 bucks, i have a spare set of clevite main and rods bearings that i dont need because i needed oversize. If you want them, ill let them go for cheap.

I also have a spare set of ARP rod bolts if you need them also, i just went with forged rods so i didnt need them either. If you need them ill let them go for cheap also.

You might as well change your bearings if your going to be taking them off anyways. So pistons, headgasket, bearings, rod bolts, machine work. Thats all you will need.

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neverlift
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I am def interestead in the rod bolts email me sus2 josh@ comcast.net(take out spaces) lmk what you want for them and stuff. First I need to find out if I need standard or oversized? the head has a washer glued to it like its been rebuilt, I just hope the bottom hasnt been , so I'll look for a glued washer on the block today(if I find time, playing with my son on the scooter and trying to get my old go cart back up running(10hp techumsuh IIRC the thing is scary fast even with knobby tires, 50+mph),trying to come up with an engine stand,taking ish off my motor,and holiday fun stuff

lol my list is something like this(mainly something for me to look at and check off) tools and parts I'm gonna need to do the job(s)cleaners and degreasers,pressure washer,paint(maybe)piston/ringshead gasket kitmr gasket copper exhaust manifold gasket tube of hondabond or black rtv if they have the big tube front/rear main sealsclevite/mahle main/rod bearingsupgrade main/rod/head bolts local fastener shop(maybe you arp's )clutch thinking about getting the replacement for the spec stg 2(or was it 3) at 159,flywheel(possibly an eghey chromoly) or turn the shyt out of one of mineif I can find a cheap local place to shot peen my rods MAYBEnew fluids duh some other ****...

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sunnys14
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If you didnt spin a bearing, then most likely you would need just standard size bearings. I had to get oversize because I spun a rod bearing.

Stay away from Spec clutches, i've heard too many bad things about them.

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neverlift
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well honestly its been rebuilt already, says the glued washers. would it be diff size (bearings)if this is the second rebuild? I am getting into a bunch of work and purchases

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Zippy69
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Car: 1993 240sx coupe

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Just because it's been rebuilt, doesn't mean that it was bored or larger bearings were used.I think the bearings should also be stamped if they are over sized, but I'm not 100% on ka's so don't quote me. Also, your crank would have had to have been turned in order to need over sized bearings. So a quick check with a micrometer will let you know this. Check FSM for specs.

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480sx
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Car: 1996 Pearl White 240sx

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Bad things about spec clutchs? Like what, and from who, on what application?

Iv heard nothing but good things from the mods here about the spec stage 3.

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eazye2000
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Car: S13 KA-DET
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Lots of people have the Spec clutches. But you normally only see the negative stuff about them because people come on here ranting about how crappy they are. Same with just about every other after market clutch that's out for the KA.I have an ACT Extreme PP with a 6-Puck sprung disc. Kinda mushy, but it holds and my car runs 12's. Supposedly the squishyness will be fixed on the next production run the 1st of the year.
Zippy69 wrote:Just because it's been rebuilt, doesn't mean that it was bored or larger bearings were used.I think the bearings should also be stamped if they are over sized, but I'm not 100% on ka's so don't quote me. Also, your crank would have had to have been turned in order to need over sized bearings. So a quick check with a micrometer will let you know this. Check FSM for specs.
I rebuilt my motor at 178k or so. Standard sized Rod/Main bearings. Stock bore pistons. Nothing was 'messed' up per say. Had the machine shop give me the ok on all tolerances and went on my merry way. Had a light hone done though. Just some insight. Doesn't mean that whoever rebuilt it last time 'had' to bore it, or turn stuff. And I have no idea on the stamp on the bearings. Or the 'washer' thing.

Just my $ .02

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neverlift
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thanks for all the advice guys...!!!

spec IDK much about my freind said it was starting to slip in 5th(he has over 330whp tho) they want enough for the replacement disc to buy a damn white bunny setup, oh well I'll toss it in till I get a light flywheel and better clutch.

while on the rebuild how should motor be broke in? All bullsyt aside I'll be beating the **** out of this one too cause whats the saying go," you aint driving hard enough unless your breaking ****"

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neverlift
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well god called, he wanted his ring lands back 2~4 all cracked, number one all in the face, I am safe toassume, the tune or fueling isnt the issue, it was the cold motor/cast piston that couldnt hang... I'll post pic of number one, the others just have cracks., going to hold most everything off till after tuesday, I'll be waiting on parts anyway.

ok new list front cover/oil pump calico coated main/rod bearings(lmk if thats a waste of 45 dollars over the clevite std) rear main seallots of rtvheadgasket kit (unless you guys think black rtv will hold 10+psi???)pistons(I am gonna call napa ,see what they carry, but its lookin like sealed power)flywheel resurface or replacemaybe arp head studs, the rest are fine IMO, I wont be going over 300whp anytime soon....pcv getting owned going with orions method..ADD AIT sensor to my tune new plugs for ****s and giggles

thinking about painting the motor suggestions welcome.

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Romedzlsr20
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Car: 300zx tt

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neverlift wrote: short story long rings and/or lands me mad ,cold motor, no warm up,10psi,sideways. POP, POP pop! let your motor warm up lol post picks of damage once pulled and broke down... anyone selling a kade around jax LMK asap(rather slap in a beat de over driving the civic) or just some pistons! plans to rebuild with **** from discount and go right back at it... this really fuct my spring build up and so do I
That sucks dude


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neverlift
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kinda but not too bad, at least now I'll know what condition the motor is in, I boosted this thing without any history on it.... the oil pump back plate is fuct, all the seals have been leaky since I bought the motor, I needed to remove the scv, my clutch was fried.... list can go for days really in short I should have gone over the motor before hand, but it was solid aside from leaky and the oil pump... ringlands failed due to my own ignorance, I'm a man so I can admit it when I stop being lazy I will post up a pic of the number one piston, about an inch or so chunk is broken off,the others are just cracked.


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neverlift
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here are the pics...


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