another nuby SR question

[93 Chuki FB]

ohh i wasn't planing on re-using those pistons. I was gonna buy the OEM ones frsport has. I understand why u would want to upgrade all that stuff. But at the same time im not exceeding (or even coming close for that matter) the limits of the stock pistons and rods. And nor do i plan on it, also, i keep getting mixed answers about this and ive searched and i keep getting a different answer. My crank and block have no signs of bearing damage (just normal wear) and ppl keep saying i need to have them machined and others say i don't, so which do u recommend? Also the race bearings i ordered are for standard tolerances, so i assume as long i can just drop them in and go. plz correct me if im wrong.

[nissan_star]

ohh i wasn't planing on re-using those pistons. I was gonna buy the OEM ones frsport has. I understand why u would want to upgrade all that stuff. But at the same time im not exceeding (or even coming close for that matter) the limits of the stock pistons and rods. And nor do i plan on it.

The way i have seen your plans work, makes me think you might kick yourself later for not upgrading

also, how are you gonna use stock piston sizes? Is the cylinder with that piston not bad? wont you need to bore it/them out?

[93 Chuki FB]

uhh ok.........anyway, that cylinder was fine actually. All of them were fine, but i did hone them so now there super smooth. It was a little rough before the hone, but now its fine, no grooves or rough patches. I did the nail test (were u run ur thumb nail across it and its shouldn't get caught on anything) and it was fine.

[PyR0NiAk]

There are those people that do the bare minimum to get by, and those that take the extra steps to get ahead...

[93 Chuki FB]

i don't know what that has to do with my build. But a lot of ppl have told me to throw new bearings in it and call it a day (thats the bare minimum) but i didn't, i pulled it apart and figured out the problem. Also it turns out the piston was slapping the cylinder wall, all the rings on that piston are worn severely, the oil rings are almost gone. I'm getting brand new oem pistons with brand new rings all around, im doing my own 3 angle valve job, the head and block are being being cleaned and are at the machine shop were they will also deck both. I also got superteck valve stem seal and ive thoroughly cleaned everything including all the valves and seats.

Not to mention, ive also got a gasket kit on the way along with a apexi metal HG with ARP studs, oil pump and front cover and a water pump and thermostat. Their are also a few other things i have coming too, (all new ACL race bearings, main and rods). When its done it should be a well built stout little motor, that makes some decent power. U will have pics of everything ive said, i have pics of everything but ive been to busy (summer school) to upload anything cause i have to email them from my phone

[nissan_star]

I was just wondering why you would take the risk of not machining the cylinder walls and go to over sized pistons to match. I guess I haven't seen the cylinder though and you have so trust your gut not mine. If you can cleaned up the wall of the cylinder, could you have cleaned up the wall of the piston too? and put it back in?

[93 Chuki FB]

well technically what i did was de-glaze the cylinders. That piston is f***,their is no chance i would try to reuse it. I guess i got lucky and it didn't cause that much damage. The reason i don't wanna get over sized pistons is cause i hardly took any materiel off the cylinders, i did this with a friends dad that present that knows his s*** (rebuilding motors since the 60's). He said that he wouldn't worry about it, he said that the new oem pistons would compensate for the wear.

He pretty much said, since the sleeves are made out of a harder metal than the piston, they would wear slower, so the wear on the piston will be less in comparison to the sleeve. So after "honing" the new oem pistons should be within spec. And the valves......well lets be reasonable here, to find one of these engines with 100k miles is a rarity.

And so it makes no sense to (keep in mind, application, power goal...ect) for me to replace them when all they need is a good cleaning and to be lapped back in, but i have decided to do my own 3 angle valve job (i took a course on valve grinding and seat grinding, 2.5hrs a day, 5 days a week) so i know what to look for and how to test if they seat properly.

The valves have plenty of cooling area (materiel) left on them. Not to mention i have access to the tools, and its a nice feeling to do things myself, that way i know were to point the finger if something goes wrong lol. But believe it or not (probably wont) i have OCD when it comes to perfection, i spent 2hrs and 3 bottles of cleaner, cleaning the cylinders out. I managed to get a mirror finish on them along with the crank and all the journals (cams as well).

I fully understand were u guys are coming from, i love seeing things done right with good quality parts. And that's what im doing, but for my application, remember i wont really be going past 250hp (if that). Trust me, when i post the complete project and all the pics, u guys will know what im talking about.

[PyR0NiAk]

Ill be waiting..

[ciscos13]

hoping to see lots of pics.

[PyR0NiAk]

The following is intended for Brian. It shows what smart people do with KAs.... (Unless, of course, you lost the anchor for your boat.)

[93 Chuki FB]

I agree, the sohc KA was created out of spite and anger, i guess it was payback for Nagasaki and Hiroshima back in WWII............we just had to nuke them, i guess u can say they got the last laugh Anyway , progress has been decent, but ive gotten stuck. I got the head and block hot tanked and decked. But i get the feeling they are too rough, ive been searching for answers for a week and a half now (talking to ppl and searching online). What exactly do i need to ensure the Apexi HG i bought seals correctly? I got APR head studs, both surfaces are as flat as can be, all oil and coolant galleries have been chamfered. But i still get the feeling it wont seal, and what about copper spray? I already know u have to put RTV around the edge of the HG so it wont weep from the front cover. OOHH aslo, i had to re-hone the cylinders after i got it back from machine shop (their was rust from hot tanking) and they cleaned up even nicer than i thought, anyway, i had him measure the cylinders and i was so close to an 86mm bore with almost no tapper that it would have been a waste to go oversize (according to him). I'm stuck on what to do, i wish i could get a hold of one of those RA meter things to see if im within factory tolerances, if anybody has any advice or suggestions plz let me know its making me really paranoid and its frustrating the s*** out of me because i cant get a straight answer and just the idea of having to tear it apart again is driving me nuts.

[nissan_star]

i had him measure the cylinders and i was so close to an 86mm bore with almost no tapper that it would have been a waste to go oversize (according to him).

this is good to hear! But as far as the rest of super post goes, I think you might be a little paranoid. You trust the dude on telling you that your cylinder bore is perfectly fine but you don't trust that he decked it right? I say either believe all of what he says or none of what he says.

[PyR0NiAk]

I used copper spray on my headgasket.

[93 Chuki FB]

i had him measure the cylinders and i was so close to an 86mm bore with almost no tapper that it would have been a waste to go oversize (according to him).

this is good to hear! But as far as the rest of super post goes, I think you might be a little paranoid. You trust the dude on telling you that your cylinder bore is perfectly fine but you don't trust that he decked it right? I say either believe all of what he says or none of what he says.

yeah thats true i guess, ive been watching videos, trying to get an idea of what the deck should look like. My deck looks like this guys, is he using a metal HG? (1:31, 2:21): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcrrTi0HjMo

[93 Chuki FB]

I used copper spray on my headgasket.

What brand HG did u use?

[patrickm1587]

Did you just randomly start pulling stuff off your engine or what? Do you have all the s*** to put it back together correctly? Why do I get the feeling that this SR will never run again?

[PyR0NiAk]

I used copper spray on my headgasket.

What brand HG did u use?

Cosworth... There are only a few companies I would use, and Cosworth has as good of a rep as any of them with a much better price.

[93 Chuki FB]

......................it didnt run right to begin with........and everything is neat and organized, here are some pics. And next time use a tampon and not my thread




dont worry, all the cylinders look better than these, dont forget this is a project for school, so i was showing the before and after effect of honing, ALL CYLINDERS LOOK MUCH BETTER THAN THESE!!








All the stuff i ordered is coming or i haven't a taken a picture yet, but dont worry i will post pics of it all. These are just a couple of the many i have so far, it just takes too long to upload them so im gonna upload all of them at once when im done

[nissan_star]

bump ho! update plz

[93 Chuki FB]

well yesterday was my 18th b-day . But anyway, i have been working on the Sr20 for a while now, ive been talking to FRsport.com for about 2 weeks now, about a piston they sent me that had a scratch. I really don't feel comfortable about putting it together with that scratch in there. I also picked up another shell so im gonna start a build thread on that once the motor is done. I also got my rings and ACL race rod bearings and duriglide main bearings (the race main bearings were on back order). Im also waiting to take the head back to my auto class cause when i put it together, i forgot to put the new valve stem seals in, f*** stupid, that was one of the main reasons i took it apart frsport.com keeps telling me UPS is going to come pick up the piston, but they dont know when, i asked them if i can just ship it to them and they said that UPS had to come get it, wtf!! its starting to get frustrating cause everything is on hold until i get the new piston anyway here are some pics, i will post pics of the shell later cause my phone blows and my friends 3g Iphone is awesome. Also here are some pica of me drifting and a recent event:

















KA POWA!!!

This guy 2 weeks earlier flipped his 350z and took a hammer to the roof and called it a day and was back out drifting:







truck 240sx:



Rocket bunny 240sx LS1 powered:







http://www.flickr.com/photos/jreadingph ... 466351691/

[93 Chuki FB]

UPDATE!!!!
well the SR is almost done, the last of the parts have been ordered. Its just a waiting game now Im so excited i really cant wait to start it, ive put tons of hours into it at this point, along with tons of money.

The parts list:
Cosworth MLS HG, 1.5mm thick, 87mm bore
ARP head studs
block: Honed, hot tanked, decked
Superteck valve stem seals
Head: Hot tanked, 3 angle valve job (done by me), decked
ACL duraglide main bearings
ACL race rod bearings
Oem pistons
Oem piston rings
Oem thermostat
Oem gasket kit
Oem timing chain kit
Oem front cover and oil pump
Oem oil filter (bought 5 of them)
Oem gasket maker used
ISIS 255lph fuel pump
ISIS FMIC kit
ISIS rocker arm stoppers
Oem excedy clutch with 13lb flywheel
Block and head painted (cast aluminum)
ISIS straight pipe exhaust
Megan headers
ISIS oil pan
Megan elbow
eBay down pipe

OHH, my brother is gonna go back and take the pics from now and on, according to him im a "fagot" and "suck d!ck" at taking pics, i couldn't really disagree with him on that

[93 Chuki FB]

Update!!! i finally finished my sr20 just a couple of hours ago!! Its already to be dropped in Just a quick question, can i use my stock KA clutch fan? i cant seem to find one for the sr20. I bought a brand new sr20 fan shroud and CXracing radiator, and i prefer the stock fan setup because i suck at wiring i found out when i tried to convert my harness My brother went back and took a bunch of awesome pics so those will be up tomorrow. After this is done i can start on my other shell (i bought another coupe, 1993 base model) and hopefully it will be done for the 2011 drift season. I really wanna sell my KA setup and swap a RB25 into the shell. ONE thing that i learned from this project, the sr20 wasn't worth it, i could have spent all the money on the KA and gotten something faster, but ohh well. Next thing i need to know is how to break this b**** in!! and for some reason im really scared that it will blow up when i first start it.....anybody else have that feeling after their 1st rebuild? This is what made me go back and take things apart like a trillion times and put it back, the fear that i might have messed up on something is really starting to get to me.

[Hijacker]

The clutch fan from the KA should bolt right up. I can't verify that since I don't usually work with the clutch fans, but I don't see a reason for Nissan to use a different fan.

[PyR0NiAk]

KA SR AND RB fans all share the same bolt patterns. Only difference is the number of blades.

[93 Chuki FB]

ok cool, how should i break in the sr20? what oil should i use?

[PyR0NiAk]

The FAQ has the page copied from the FSM. I personally recommend Mobil 1 10W-30 full synthetic, but you'll hear 1000 different opinions based on who you ask. All with their own reasons. The page in the FSM has what's recommended for certain climates.

[Hijacker]

I mention in the SR rebuild DIY what I've used successfully for many motor break ins. But there are about as many opinions on how to break a motor in as there are people rebuilding motors.

[WDRacing]

Lots of high vacuum driving, no lugging and conventional oil for the first 500. I subscribe to the "drive it like you stole it" method of engine break in.

[93 Chuki FB]

So heres a quick update, I finished the swap and all is good. I got the motor running a couple of days ago, its a blast to drive. The awesome parts was the motor fired right up and ran pretty well. I was shocked how quick it started, i was even more astonished that it didnt blow up or have a terrible knock or death rattle. Im gonna post way better pics tonight along with a video of the first start up. It was smoking really bad, but i think thats cause of all the oil i put in the cylinders. Ive driven it about 100 miles and it stopped smoking all together, and it runs way smoother. I broke it in by using 10w30 Non synthetic o'reilys brand oil and a genuine Nissan filter. I let it warm up and then shut it off and let it cool down. I started it back up and did a couple of hard pulls in 2nd, 3rd and 4th to about 5500 rpm. I drove it really hard and then after about 20 miles i changed the oil again with the same off brand crap along with the filter. I try to compression brake when ever i can and give it a good amount of throttle. I try not to drive it for more than 1/2 an hour at a time. I really believe this method works well because of reasoning behind it so thats how im gonna do for all my motors. I also got pics of the 2 KA-T's im building along with N/A KA24DE and KA24E that im rebuilding. KA-T's are my friends, the N/A KA's are for my brother and my other friend. Motor building is the funnest part for me when it comes to cars, i srsly look forward to that more than anything else.