another blow thru MAFS thread. and o2 sensors

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
Fearsome_tea
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why doesnt nobody cut the sensor out and put it in like 80mm pipe after the intercooler?


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Coolwhip
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its been done, just have to search for it. However, the problem with our MAF compared to GM and Dodge is that we can't simply unbolt our sensor and relocate it to another pipe with out sodering the wires. So another housing must be made as well.

I've seen it done looks a lot better imo compared to a million clampes and silicone couplers everywhere

Fearsome_tea
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No I drilled a hole in the piping. Cut the sensor out and drill a hole in the piping after the intercooler. Use a little RTV for a seal. Then extend the wires. If you want I could post up some pics 2morrow. The sensor is hidden from site.

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cdorhout
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Like someone above stated, all I did was cut the plastic four bolt flange off the MAF. If you cut it in the right place, it even bumps out a little bit so the coupling and clamp don't slip off of it.Then, I cut a circle of window screen and bent it around the inlet side of the MAF to smooth out the airflow like stock.It's very easy if you just cut it off, and better than putting the sensor in another pipe cuz that could easily throw your air flow map off.

Sorry I don't have pics.

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midnightsliding
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cdorhout wrote:Then, I cut a circle of window screen and bent it around the inlet side of the MAF to smooth out the airflow like stock.
dosent the MAF already have a screen built into it. maybe im remembering wrong.

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cdorhout
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It does, but the screen is pressed into the flange. So when you cut it off, you're left with no screen at all. That's why I bent some window screen over the newly cut end.

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midnightsliding
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ahh i c now. thanks for the advice.

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kouki munster
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How much boost are you guys running on your blow through setups. I've been wanting to do it fo a while, but have been worried about poping the maf.

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Carl H
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ive run up to 20psi on mine without much drama, the real problem isnt blowing the casing out but rather the plastic square on the top.

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cdorhout
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19psi - stopping there due to pistons and headgasket for now.

I epoxied the sensor inside MAF, I'd be amazed if it blew out of there. I think it could take a lot more boost pressure.

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BoostFab
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here's another option you can do:remove the sensor wire element portion and integrate it into a properly sized intake pipe. i know cobra maf and various other compatible maf let you do this.
Modified by BoostsFed at 8:45 PM 7/11/2007

gawdzilla
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BoostsFed wrote:here's another option you can do:remove the sensor wire element portion and integrate it into a properly sized intake pipe. i know cobra maf and various other compatible maf let you do this.http://pubpages.unh.edu/~shinh...1.jpg

Modified by BoostsFed at 8:45 PM 7/11/2007
then the problem is calibration... how do you know what that maf curve looks like?

Darius
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I'm with gawdzilla. How do you know what the calibration is when there is an increaser and reducer so close to the MAF sensor? Each of those create turbulence that could throw the MAF reading off. If you were going to do that, why not run larger diameter piping through the bends to minimize turbulence?

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Carl H
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i've not had a problem with my setup at all...as long as the cross section where the actual sensor is remains 3" then it should be fine.ive got 2.5 -- > 3 adaptors on either end of my maf and as i said previously has never given me any trouble.

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Chaos the Xile
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how far away should the MAF be from the throttle body, in theory?

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300Plus
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my maf is about 12 inchs away from my TB

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URAS
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midnightsliding wrote:figured i would bring up my old thread in stead of making a new one.

so what all is needed to do to prep the Q45 MAFS for blow through? and where can i buy and adapter thing to connect it to my IC piping?
i usually carefully remove the element and fit it in the cooler piping but I WOULD NOT do it with a Q45 as it would throw the cal out. Best AFM for the conversion is Z32.


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