ANGER AND DAMN FRUSTRATION!

[nisssan-drive]

Yeah yeah I have my ecu just chillin on passenger floor right now but I wasn't sure if I could get the codes pulled. No check engine light was on so would it still work,also I have to take to auto gay right?

[Ryans13se]

When I first got my car I had a fuel leak. A really bad one, but it would always turn over. The smell inside my car was terrible and other passengers I would have who arent used to car fumes would be near passing out. So chances are if your smelling fuel iln your car... you have got a really bad leak... I dont know if anyone answered you on that already, but i figured I would through that out there...

[nisssan-drive]

I ran the ecu codes. When I first got there the light was already on doesn't that mean The ECU's CPU or the Crank Angle sensor is malfunctioning. Then I turn the screw with the key on and it only blinked 10 times like 1...2...3...4...5....6.7.8.9.10.

It just kept on repeating this so I turned it back counter clock wise. So... I got code # 10? never heard of that.

[Rucca]

if you got five long blinks, pause 5 short blinks. then you have code 55... or everything is ok.

i dont know how badly you scraped on these train tracks but you could have restricted or bent fuel lines or severely restricted your exhaust. either of these scenarios however would've caused immediate problems which you dont seem to link the scraping to your problem so lets rule that out.

you say you tried starting it with starter fluid... i assume you just sprayed the crap out of the air filter while cranking. so that basically rules out fuel.

bad o2 sensor won't cause no start. most problems won't cause no start. the ecm can still run in limp mode or open loop.

you claim to have no spark at the plug wires but did you do the test with a plug in the boot or just with the boot? if you don't put a plug in the boot of the wire to test you will not get spark. the gap from the inside of the boot is too far. test for spark at each cylinder. spark at the wires rules out the ignition system basically.

so.... if you have fuel, you have spark, you haven't screwed with anything (like taken the distributor out and changed timing), and you are getting code 55 from the ecu, im going to guess that you have terrible compression or a really bad vacuum leak.

why not take it back to your mechanic and tell him that your problem isn't fixed?

[nisssan-drive]

no every thing is fine under the car I was under there for probably 2 hours putting my straight pipe on and cleaning every thing up under there. As for everything being okay haha thats dumb(not you) why would it say that if something is obviously ****ed up!

Sprayed the air filter no, I sprayed starter fluid into the intake hose with the throttle body open.

Yes I put the spark plug into the plug wire and I got spark when I did so. I will go out right now and do this again on every cylinder and let you no what happens.

I figured that I have no compression to but now I am thinking its my ecu because when I went to check the codes the l.e.d light was already on and this should mean bad ecu or crank angle sensor.

Well I just recently moved back to my home in corpus the mechanic was in Houston so.

Yes I took the dizzy off but my timing is still good I have double checked.

[Rucca]

As for everything being okay haha thats dumb(not you) why would it say that if something is obviously ****ed up!

because it is a computer. all electrical problems it has been designed to detect are currently functioning normally. i'd also be sure you set timing correctly. you could be 180 degrees out.

[nisssan-drive]

well first I reset the timing because i dunno just to do in hope I would get lucky then I took the distributor off. The timing should still be good but even if it wasn't I haven't done any thing else to it for it to start up because I can't think of anything.

[240life]

because it is a computer. all electrical problems it has been designed to detect are currently functioning normally. i'd also be sure you set timing correctly. you could be 180 degrees out.

[nisssan-drive]

It is a mystery. I was pretty sure it was my alternater after I read what can happen when it goes out I was 100% sure. Nope sure as hell wasn't .

I have a faulty nissan!!!!

[Rucca]

You car just has a faulty owner

[nisssan-drive]

HA nice one jack *** go work on your mustang

[240life]

so you got spark, fuel, and air to make combustion, have you checked for leaky injectors? Other than that either your timing IS off or you have electrical issues. Have you considered maybe sending it to a shop and letting someone with experience look at it. Just a suggestion

[nisssan-drive]

Yeah well I took off my valve cover just to check things out under there. As I had the cover off I saw my cylinder one cam lobes were facing inwards even though the timing on my pulley was correct. So I rotated the pulley another 360% and every thing looked good. Later on today I am going to go buy a new battery and try to start my car. Hope fully that was my problem. Some one with experience Thats me . Ha nah I was very close to doing so until I figured this out. If this isn't it... I most likely will.

[XMSducksauce]

DAMNIT ok im sure this is some good info the SON OF A ***** WONT START! it just sits there going chachachachachachachacha if you read the chas HA thats about the time I had the key turned over and towards the end it started kinda bogging along with it ha:wtf ???????

oK its a ka24de just intake filter, exhaust and after pully. Like I said I just replaced the knock and injector. It ran fine for two days. Then on the third day I noticed a similar sound to what it was doing before I did the replacing" thats when I almost set cruise control to 100mph and jumped out the hatch" as I was getting on the highway. So I went home posted on here then went to bed. NOW... the damn thing wont start??????????

Fuel pump and filter? Was your car acting in any similarity of mine? I guess this could still mean its the o2,"not sure if the o2 causes the car not to start" ECTS, or the egr valve stuck open. I am going to do some research on this stuff then go out there to see what I can do. Ill let you all no what i find out or do.

Also thought I should mention that of those two days of it running. Sometimes when I would start the car the rpms would drop to around 400 to500 revs then go up to the normal 800 rpms an run fine until now of course.

Yeah dude I had the same chachacha problem and bogging in my 96 and then it just wouldn't start. FUEL PUMP. Easy fixer. I got an OEM type replacement from auto zone for 92 bucks after tax and put it in myself. If you're looking for some power in the future wouldn't be a bad time to bump it up and put a good walbro or something in it. But yeah, sounds like the exact same thing that happened to me about a month ago. Lemme know how it goes

[nisssan-drive]

Yeah dude I had the same chachacha problem and bogging in my 96 and then it just wouldn't start. FUEL PUMP. goes

Just to make this sound a little better for me lets see if I have your story right. Your car was bogging then it died? or did you turn it off? Then when you tried to start your car it would turn over(chachacha). Thanks

[nisssan-drive]

Getting very annoyed with the timing. The marks seem correct on the pulley and the rotor is lined up with cylinder one on the cap so is my timing right? Well thats how it was when I just tried to start it and it still just turns over. Either my timing is off or the fuel pump is bad. I have compression.

[XMSducksauce]

It would occasionally bog when I started it, and would sometimes cut off if I let it sit, then one day I went to leave my friends house and it would start up, choke around like it was almost out of gas when I had just filled up the day before, and would die, then I tried a few min later and it just would turn over but wouldn't run. Did some troubleshooting and came to the conclusion it was my pump. When I replaced it, she fired right up, ran fine and I haven't had any problems yet. Try spraying some starter fluid down in the throttle body and see if it starts, if it does and it will run for as long as there's fluid, then it's either your line is clogged, filter is clogged, or your pump is bad...easiest fix would be the filter but try that and let me know how it goes.

[nisssan-drive]

Wel I have replaced filter already so.... I have also tried the starter fluid thing as well but I am going to do it one more time. Also the little wire (in the trunk that connects to the top of the fuel pump) Theres a bunch of gunk in there does your fuse have some stuff in it as well?

[XMSducksauce]

Nah ah mine's pretty clean, but I'm not sure what you mean by "fuse"...like a fuse in the trunk over the top of the tank or in my fuse panel?

[94_240sx]

Did you replace o-rings? If you reuse them most likely you will crush them when you put injectors back in. Then you have no pressure in the fuel line. Replace o-rings first and see.

Another thing is IACV(Idle Air Control Valve). There's a tube connected to inake. Spray half can of carb cleaner and try to start the car right after. It should loosen up IACV if it's clogged.

Do you hear fuel pump prep when you turn the key? If so, then your fuel pump is fine. Just remeber. Always move from cheap to expensive solution. If you eliminate one by one, you should be able to fix it eventually.

[nisssan-drive]

The little fuse that is under the carpet in your trunk. Mine has a bunch of tan gunk in it .

[XMSducksauce]

Well, I've got an S14 so apparently that's one thing they've changed in the years...I have no fuse in my trunk so I don't know what to tell ya about that...prolly just grime built up from the years if I had to guess.

[Rucca]

Getting very annoyed with the timing. The marks seem correct on the pulley and the rotor is lined up with cylinder one on the cap so is my timing right? Well thats how it was when I just tried to start it and it still just turns over. Either my timing is off or the fuel pump is bad. I have compression.

Well when the crank pulley is at 0 degrees it means that cylinder 1 is top dead center. What it doesn't guarantee is that cylinder 1 is top dead center on compression stroke, it could be TDC on exhaust stroke. If that is the case - what you are describing (no start and cranking but has fuel and spark) will happen....

Solution - turn to TDC and observe distributor rotor pointing to cyl 1, then rotate the crank another 360 degrees to 0 again. At this point the rotor will be 180degrees from where it was. Now remove distributor and point rotor at cylinder 1.

Also make sure your wires are going to the correct cylinders, sounds dumb but **** happens.

[nisssan-drive]

I have a fuel pressure tool laying around here some where. If that will work for my car I can hook it up to see if my o rings got crushed causing me to have no pressure like 240sx said. my IACV being clogged can cause my car not to start?

Hmm... still a little confusing but I think I get it enough to go out there and set my timing again (if its off). Also when I am doing that there are marks by the timing chain for me to go by right? So when I set the timing right my dizzy rotor wont be lined up with cylinder one and to fix this I just take the dizzy off and line it up with it? Sorry for confusion

[nisssan-drive]

ha fuel pump relay? any one.

[Rucca]

If your fuel pump relay was no good you wouldn't get fuel.....

Your timing chain isn't involved with setting ignition timing, it controls valve timing.

Put your engine at top dead center, and point the rotor to cylinder 1. If that doesn't work, rotate the crank 360 degrees and then repeat.

If that doesn't work, maybe it is your timing chain. Sometimes on high mileage cars the tensioners bind up or the gears are so worn that the chain will slip off the gear and jump back a few teeth causing the car to either not run or crush valves.

[nisssan-drive]

I am taking it to a mechanic we no really well when he tells me whats wrong with it I will let you guys no.

Thanks for all the help!

[nisssan-drive]

Well... heres then end! I have a bent rod or broken piston

[XMSducksauce]

Wow...didn't expect that...how'd you come to that conclusion?

[nisssan-drive]

Took it to a mechanic and thats what he told me ha. Think since I have to get rebuild I am going to go ka-t.