ahhh 'tob' noise still exists after replacement, part 2

[jt15833]

original thread: zerothread?id=148460

cliff notes: i had a noise like a baseball card slapping against each bike tires spokes that becomes non-existent if i push the clutch in at idle. in that thread most people said bad tob, replace.

so, i got an OEM tob from nissan, machine pressed it on, and replaced my clutch and flywheel while in there. started it up first time and still does the exact same thing! drove 50 miles for test, came back and still there. im beginning to think it wasn't related to my flywheel/clutch/release assembly at all. maybe transmission? my swap barely has 400 miles on it in total, do things like this just happen and go away or should i be worried? is this a symptom of rod knock? any input welcome i am completly befuddled. also, theres this incredibly high pitched squeeling/screetching that occurs at lower rpms, i can get it to go away by mainting an rpm above 1,500 below 3,000 for a couple seconds while cruising, or just completling gassing it to 4 or 5 k and itll dissapear. sounds like coming from transmission area, but im not sure. im on gl5 btw im getting some gl4 fluid tomorrow and changing, if that influences any of my problems.

[originalsin]

pilot bearing?

[jt15833]

i replaced it with the original clutch job 400 miles ago, does this even sound like symptoms of bad pilot bearing?

[float_6969]

aaahhhh!!!! GL5 is BAD for our transmission's! Change it out quickly. It's got sulfur in it that eats up the brass syncros.

That doesn't explain your problem though. It doesn't sound like anything I've heard before or heard anyone complain about before.

If you bring it up to KS I'll take a look at it

[c-rad]

you didnt happen to stand the transmission on its bellhousing before you put it in did you? That could have messed up the input shaft.

[top_secret]

no clue on this one, from the symptoms you mentioned I would have though tob for sure. Might be time to take it to a real mechanic.

[kapower06]

Not to scare you but my old ka used to make that sound then it blew, swapped an Automatic ka motor with my old transmission on it, the noise was still there then that motor also blew, but i know exactly the noise that your talking about.

[jt15833]

ka you are scaring me actually. did you figure out the cause of death for both ka's? the problem is intermittent making me beleive it's not rod knock or anything that serious, since it seems to be happening less and when its cold I'm going to get thinggs straightened out and worry about it in 500-1000 miles if its still there.

[kapower06]

well, they both had spun bearings on cyl. 3. but the thing is, the second motor was from an auto which ran great then i swapped my manual transmission onto it swapped it into my car and about a year later here i am now. blown ka. but I dont know what caused the bearings to go. possibly being a highly over-square design with me revving it out for quite sometime? All i know is the i'll be happy to finally get rid of this possesed (sp) transmission. lol

[kapower06]

A quick question? I can get the GM syncomesh fluid at a very cheap cost... is it worth it?

[float_6969]

Is it a GL4? If so, go for it.

[jt15833]

hijacker.... i dont see why a bad rod bearing would go away when clutch is pressed in a little and how it could be intermittent, anyone fill in here?

[Dookie]

For transmission fluid, autozone stocks Pennzoil Synchromesh fluid, works great on my car. Im gonna switch to Royal Purple or Redline next time though

[Kouks]

I have rp syncromax, its awesome. Full Synthetic. I used to work for a shop that carried it and after i started using it, i wouldnt go back to regular ole stuff.

[top_secret]

I have used the PZ synchromesh myself, nothing is as good as the redline shock proof but I don't get as much grind when using synchromesh over the cheap stuff.

[kapower06]

The rod knock doesnt go away with the clutch... Its just a scary coincidence to me. sorry for hi-jacking