Acceleration Question

[Cyberkreig]

Swift - I figured i'd get it for an Ebay link. but it was the first thing that came to mind.. try a google "Turbo header"

I happen to agree with you that is a turbo manifold or exhaust manifold; header makes me think NA. BUT it seems to be somewhat common.

[SpeedRacer1]

That is very interesting I'd like to know how you did this if that is ok with you

Im not sure if its for all SR's or just mine so play at your own risk.I have ECU 63 because my SR came as an auto initially.Inbetween the third and fourth cylinders on the engine there is a plug with four wires going into it. The plug had always been disconnected because it caused my idle to be at about 1600 when I was driving. One day I thought "its stupid to leave four wires unplugged when only one was probably causing the problem." So I looked up the wires and found that the light blue wire was causing the issue. It was the Auxiliary Air Control Valve wire and I have no idea why it sent the signal to my Idle Air Control Valve to bump up the idle but it did. So I cut it, the only detrimental effects were that it was harder to coast in gear because that wire fed extra air into the engine whenever I would partially close the throttle plate, and that with an atmospheric BOV, the car would try to stall and die, thus leaving me to play the tap the gas game. So I got smart a couple weeks ago, soldered up the wire I clipped and hooked up a switch to it. Now I leave the valve open nearly all the time except when I am idling, or coasting and trying to get the idle down. The switch keeps my car from completely stalling out because it recovers way before 500 RPM's. Another job that the switch does is help my car from trying to stall during a warm startup. So before my car would try to die again if I didnt give it a little gas at warm startup, now it just drops RPM's a little and bounces back up.

Bottom line: Pull the plug while the engine is running and see if the idle goes down. If it does then plug it back in and set the idle to about 1600, then pull it again and see where the idle goes. If the idle goes to about 800ish then cut the light blue wire #113 off the ECU and simply add some wire and a switch to the AAC Valve. Mount switch wherever you want. ***Perform at your own risk***

I happen to agree with you that is a turbo manifold or exhaust manifold; header makes me think NA. BUT it seems to be somewhat common.

I will acknowledge that the turbo manifold can be referred to as a header, however no company calls it a header, therefore it is not the most common usage. Header can mean turbo manifold but if you use it in this forum I can only assume (as I rightly have with other people in the past) that you do not know what you are talking about and are only defending the term "header" to cover your a$$.

[SrS13]

do you think having the #63 ecu would make a difference? because I have the #62.

Also I have a Blitz SS BOV do you know if they are tunable???

thanks again

[Cyberkreig]

All S13 SR ecus (with the exception of the latemodel blacktops, referred to as "type X") Have the same ECU pinout.

[SrS13]

I see how the BOV could cause that little stumble inbetween shifts. So the only way to compensate for that lost meatered air would be some kind of Fuel management system? or to go back to a recirculating Valve?

When I boost past stock PSI would it still stumble?

[haddixracing]

To set this argument straight on the header vs manifold debate. In most circles, manifolds refer to log style cast iron pieces typically found on most stock vehicles. Headers on the other hand are tubular pieces and can be used on NA or Turbo cars. I have built many of my own "turbo headers" for race cars. The import crowd used to insult anyone who said they had "headers" on their turbo car because they thought they were smarter than all of the old school racers who prefer Carbs to EFI and Cubes to Turbos. However, the majority of us tuners and shop owners commonly refer to tubular style turbo manifolds as turbo headers now. Get over it people. Everyone calls polystyrene styrofoam regardless of the maufacturer and tissue is called Kleenex. As long as we know what we are talking about can't we all get along? If you go down south everybody calls Pop "coke". And up in the northeast its soda. Who cares what its called as long as we all know what we mean?

[nlzmo400r]

hahahah mr.16postsaday. you obviously have no life other then the internet to defend yourself so heartedly...bahbahhaha!!

yea, im a active NICO memeber and proud of it, and u make fun of me abot my 16 posts per day, yet u seem to be there to retaliate after everything i say, seems to me that you are the one with nolife. And trust me, i have nothing to defend myself from. Yet you again show your maturity

[nlzmo400r]

To set this argument straight on the header vs manifold debate. In most circles, manifolds refer to log style cast iron pieces typically found on most stock vehicles. Headers on the other hand are tubular pieces and can be used on NA or Turbo cars. I have built many of my own "turbo headers" for race cars. The import crowd used to insult anyone who said they had "headers" on their turbo car because they thought they were smarter than all of the old school racers who prefer Carbs to EFI and Cubes to Turbos. However, the majority of us tuners and shop owners commonly refer to tubular style turbo manifolds as turbo headers now. Get over it people. Everyone calls polystyrene styrofoam regardless of the maufacturer and tissue is called Kleenex. As long as we know what we are talking about can't we all get along? If you go down south everybody calls Pop "coke". And up in the northeast its soda. Who cares what its called as long as we all know what we mean?

actually ive never heard anyone down here ever call 'coke' ...Pop' I see it old movies and whatnot, but nothing withn the past 4o years

[Cyberkreig]

I live in the northeast.. Even if its pepsi (mm pepsi).. Its a coke. or a soda. 'Pop' thats so 1920.

[haddixracing]

Ok,

Let me try to clarify my POP, Coke, Soda Argument...LOL!

I live near Cincy Ohio. Around here everyone calls it Pop.I have Cousins in Nashville Tennessee. They call it Coke.I also have friends in NY. They call it soda.

Did that clear it up?

:pface

[nlzmo400r]

actually around here most people (usually blacks , dunno how it got started) call it a 'col drink' (or colD drink is how it should be said)

[SrS13]

I see how the BOV could cause that little stumble inbetween shifts. So the only way to compensate for that lost meatered air would be some kind of Fuel management system? or to go back to a recirculating Valve?

When I boost past stock PSI would it still stumble?

Come on guys at least answer my last post then you guys can finish your own discussion.

[IowaSilvia_S13]

I have boosted over stock psi. It doesn't seem to stumble especially if i shift fast and step on it.. stay over 4000rpm . Mine does stumble between all shifts if i drive it normally. Because of the lost air that was metered by the mafs. Shouldn't have bought that damn Blitz bov that isn't recirculating. hmm......

[nlzmo400r]

Come on guys at least answer my last post then you guys can finish your own discussion.

sorry bro, my faul,t, anyway, your best (i.e easiest) solution would be going with a recirculating BOV and lose the on you have. A new fuel set up would also solve this problem, but would be more costly i would imagine

[SrS13]

by new fuel setup do you mean, as mention before, some type of fuel management system?

for example: an AFC or Haltech?

[SpeedRacer1]

by new fuel setup do you mean, as mention before, some type of fuel management system?

for example: an AFC or Haltech?

Yes he does. Upping boost wont solve or hurt the problem. Well it will have an effect however the results will occur so fast you will never know they happened. It would feel just like normal, which in your case is boggy.

[haddixracing]

An SAFC would solve the problem "or at least put a band aid on it". The SAFC has a mode which accounts for venting MAF type systems to atmosphere. It will cut fuel accordingly and reduce or completely eliminate the stumble in most cases. I have seen it used on MANY DSM's and a few Nissans and it works very well.

[SrS13]

Does everyone encounter this boggyness upon completion of their swap, I personally had no idea this would be happening or maybe I just never came across it.

oh well, thanks for the help guys

[nrcooled]

I had the same problem when I ran the Blitz SS open. Do you hear a poping/cracking noise coming from your exhaust. My car used to buck and stutter. After I sold it and put on the HKS SQV (open also) the problem was solved.

The Blitz is notorious for leaking boost. Do yourself a favor and just check all vacuum lines and piping for leaks. An easy (but dangerous) way is to spray starting fliud on your joints and see if your idle goes up a better way is to get a leak tester (have to build it yourself) there is a write up somewhere on the internet just have to search. Just make sure you try teh easy fixes before you assume a big issue

[Cyberkreig]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

thats the pipe tester.. I've seen people use carb cleaner on the hose joints..

[nrcooled]

Good link Cyber!

It, to me, sounds like you have a boost leak somewhere and your running super dupper rich when the boost is leaked off.