Acceleration Problem

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
buffalorogue
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Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 8:43 pm
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The word from the dealer was ...of course they could not reproduce the problem because they didn't drive it very far, but there were error codes on the computer. So, they contacted Nissan and was told that it was the valve body and so, I'm getting a new transmission. Will be curious to hear how your long drive went, PA2.


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Nick 568
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 5:59 am
Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue
Location: Anchorage, Alaska

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Rogue2008 wrote:I think they should provide the paddle shifters with all CVT cars.
I agree with you completely. A coworker of mine was looking at a Subaru Legacy with the CVT, and my advice to him was that without some sort of manual override, I think the average person would go crazy. Granted, I don't use my paddle shifters much at all, but sometimes I don't feel like waiting for the CVT to realize, "Oh, you want to take off a bit faster than normal." or, "Oh, the selected ratio does not apply because you're actually trying to go up a hill."
Not bashing the CVT or anything, just saying it's not perfect.

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kerrton
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Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue SL FWD Gotham Gray
Location: Southern Alberta, Canada

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There are a some things I don't like about the CVT either, but this is one I really don't understand and I've never understood the appeal of paddle shifters. If I want to "downshift, I can do this instantly by pushing down on the gas peddle, same effect as tapping paddle shifter. I find the CVT responds almost instantly with lots of power and as soon as I let off the throttle a little bit it quickly shifts to a higher gear ratio, I find it to be very easy to control.

But to each his own, everyone's different.

philipa_240sx
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buffalorogue wrote:The word from the dealer was ...of course they could not reproduce the problem because they didn't drive it very far, but there were error codes on the computer. So, they contacted Nissan and was told that it was the valve body and so, I'm getting a new transmission. Will be curious to hear how your long drive went, PA2.
Nissan released a tech bulletin regarding valve body issues awhile back. Supposedly it only affected the '08 models.
NTB09148 - SB Altima/Rogue/Sentra; MIL "ON" w/DTC P0840/P0845/P0744/P1777

* IF YOU CONFIRM Any of the following DTCs are stored in the TCM: - P0840 - P0845 - P0744 - P1777 ACTIONS Replace the Control Valve Assembly with the part listed in the Parts Information section of this bulletin. Reference SECTION TM, CONTROL VALVE Removal and Inspection in the appropriate ESM for directions. Erase the EEP ROM calibration data in the TCM and allow it to recalibrate. Reference NTB08-064; CVT AND 5 SPEED A/T INITIALIZATION INFORMATION for directions.

pa2
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 6:08 am
Car: 2010 AWD Rogue

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buffalorogue wrote:The word from the dealer was ...of course they could not reproduce the problem because they didn't drive it very far, but there were error codes on the computer. So, they contacted Nissan and was told that it was the valve body and so, I'm getting a new transmission. Will be curious to hear how your long drive went, PA2.
Well, if they give you a new transmission then you are lucky, they only replaced the valve body on my car. So far my long drive is going good i'm in frederick, MD and everything so far is good stopping and going up the long hills here in Harpers Ferry, W. VA, everything as it should be. Now when you press on the gas after a long run the car goes, so guess that was the problem.
Last edited by pa2 on Sun Jul 11, 2010 4:07 am, edited 1 time in total.

pa2
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Car: 2010 AWD Rogue

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Nissan released a tech bulletin regarding valve body issues awhile back. Supposedly it only affected the '08 models.
NTB09148 - SB Altima/Rogue/Sentra; MIL "ON" w/DTC P0840/P0845/P0744/P1777

* IF YOU CONFIRM Any of the following DTCs are stored in the TCM: - P0840 - P0845 - P0744 - P1777 ACTIONS Replace the Control Valve Assembly with the part listed in the Parts Information section of this bulletin. Reference SECTION TM, CONTROL VALVE Removal and Inspection in the appropriate ESM for directions. Erase the EEP ROM calibration data in the TCM and allow it to recalibrate. Reference NTB08-064; CVT AND 5 SPEED A/T INITIALIZATION INFORMATION for directions.

Dealer said it also affected some 2010's did not know how many, but they had another one in same time as my Rogue for same thing.

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Rogue2008
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Car: 2008 Venom Red Nissan Rogue SL 2WD Premium Package

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What? Extended warranty does not cover electricals? I am about to purchase one.

And Holy Cow! Thats a lot of miles in 6 months on a new vehicle.

philipa_240sx
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Rogue2008 wrote:What? Extended warranty does not cover electricals?
Weberrider is referring to Nissan's CVT warranty extension. The warranty period is 10 years/120,000 miles and applies to all Nissan vehicles equipped with the CVT... he did not purchase it. Read more here:

http://www.nissanassist.com/

Unfortunately, the issue was electrical and not the CVT. His vehicle warranty has run out so he had to pay out of pocket.

philipa_240sx
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Thanks for the tip pa2. This will help a lot of owners with the same issue!

mclare8705
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Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2010 11:53 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue S FWD

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i bought a 2010 nissan rogue S FWD in february.

so far...

-there was a steering bolt loose ( under 1000 miles on the car ) & concern about noise coming from transmission (was told it was normal) - serv dept fixed bolt

-the window switch in the door came loose and was rattling around - serv dept fixed

-6000 miles-

i finally decide to drive to the beach with my 2 children. after about 1.5hrs worth of driving - i stop at a stop light. light turns green - vehicle goes no where when pushing the gas. rpms rev to 3,4,5K - my car is literally going MAYBE 5mph. mind you i'm in the middle of the intersection with my children in the car. :mad:

luckily there was a McDs right there - putz on in. parked. let the kids play inside for a little bit while i called friends to let them know i may be stranded because my car is having a major issue.

figured i'd TRY and start the car and see if it would work. and look at that - it did. needless to say this happened a few times - to the point where i couldnt take my brand new vehicle any kind of distance. local driving only.

issue could not be duplicated - awesome.

-8000 miles-
brought it into the service department again. they are currently putting a new transmission in it. and - fyi mine is not the only one in there at this moment for this issue and receiveing a trans.. oh and - the trans was on backorder. i've been in a rental for over a week now and the car hasnt even been worked on yet.

needless to say - when i get it back i'm getting rid of it.

just wanted to make sure everyone was aware...

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kerrton
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You're getting rid of it "needless to say"? This is not a "needless to say" situation, this makes no sense to me at all, why in the world would you get rid of a vehicle that will be better than new within a few days??!! ALL vehicle manufacturers including Honda and Toyota have some vehicles with defects, which is why they come with warranties. These are uncommon problems and if they happen to you it's not fun, but in the majority of cases the dealer identifies the problem, fixes it and you have years of trouble free driving. There are millions of examples of top manufacturers and defects, one that I have is of a friend who bought an 07 Toyota RAV4, he had the transmission replaced 3 times over the course of 2 years then finally decided to sell the vehicle. This doesn't mean that 07 RAV4's have bad transmissions, it just means he was one of the few that got unlucky, and I'm sure they would've solved the issue (and quite possibly they did but he sold it too soon for us to know for sure). And just because your Rogue had a bad trans doesn't mean all Rogue's have this issue and it definately doesn't mean the issue will recur in the future.

The Rogue is rated very highly in terms of initial and long-term quality, there is absolutely no reason to think that this problem won't be fixed and a thing of the past once the new transmission is installed. I can't fathom why you'd sell a brand new vehicle just because it was one of the very few that required an early warranty repair - the repairs are free to you and once complete the vehicle will work flawlessly.

If you do want to sell it, you definately won't have any trouble finding a buyer, there will be people lining up to buy because it's a quality brand new vehicle at a significant price reduction because you'll have to eat the big loss, and the new owner will have a sweet vehicle at an amazing low price.

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Eikon
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I've experienced this very sluggish acceleration issue as well. After driving longer distances on highway, when I got off the highway, the next couple accelerations feel like they have a "stuck" gas pedal. When you get used to a car, you know from muscle memory how hard you need to press the gas to get the expected acceleration. I drive pretty conservatively, but I'm no 80 year old on the way to church Sunday morning... Well, after being on the highway for a bit, the car feels like it's 80.

One of these days when I have a few minutes free, I'll get it into my local dealer and see if they can pull codes and check it out. It is difficult to replicate, but now that I've driven the car for a few months, I know it's not "normal".

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Nick 568
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Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue
Location: Anchorage, Alaska

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mclare's post reminds me of an acceleration "issue" I've had with my Rogue that I'd just like to throw out there for reference. It's not an actual problem, but I figure more knowledge is power, and it may help someone out who may be wondering "wtf??"

I've experienced a few times where the Rogue will stop responding to any throttle input. It's not a transmission issue, the engine is not revving at all despite pressing the gas pedal.
This usually happens after a somewhat large "jolt" to the vehicle. I've had this happen to me twice that I can recall. Drove down an incline on a driveway too fast, hit the even roadway fairly hard, and then I had no acceleration at all.
Another time was last week when I was driving down a muddy off-road trail and hit a bump fairly hard. 'Tripped' the system, and had to just coast for a few feet before anything would happen.
Shutting off the vehicle and restarting it also solves the issue.

Now, I'm fairly confident that this is a normal function of the VDC in the vehicle. I imagine that after an "impact", it kills the throttle because one could imagine what would happen if you got hit at an intersection, were knocked out, but had the throttle pegged. So I'm guessing it's a safety feature. An annoying one, albeit; and one that could cause some people to think something was wrong. So I just wanted to throw this out there for reference for anyone who may search for a similar problem in the future.
However, if I'm totally wrong in my assumption that this is a normal safety feature, feel free to tell me I'm wrong, lol.


I did not think to check if the same thing happened 2 Friday's ago where some uninsured jack*ss in front of me at the light slammed it into reverse w/o looking because he was too far past the lines, and slammed into my front bumper. I immediately put the car into park because I wasn't thinking, "Now would be a good time to test my theory..." but, "WTF???"

philipa_240sx
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Nick 568 wrote:This usually happens after a somewhat large "jolt" to the vehicle. I've had this happen to me twice that I can recall. Drove down an incline on a driveway too fast, hit the even roadway fairly hard, and then I had no acceleration at all. Another time was last week when I was driving down a muddy off-road trail and hit a bump fairly hard. 'Tripped' the system, and had to just coast for a few feet before anything would happen.
Shutting off the vehicle and restarting it also solves the issue.
Hmmm, I've had something similar happen when driving on a loose surface (sand, gravel, snow). If you spin the tires too much, the system seems to go into this 'limp mode' and acceleration/power is reduced. It's only momentary and goes away within a few seconds. There could well be a protection mode built into the CVT that prevents damage under certain conditions. Perhaps this could explain what we are seeing? Unfortunately only the engineers at Nissan would know for sure....

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Nick 568
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Yeah, it's the exact same thing that happens--either sliding around a bunch, or a substantial 'jolt' to the vehicle.

skholla
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Car: 09 Nissan Rogue SL, 97 Acura EL

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my 09 rogue sl had this issue twice, once if not both times happened after the transmission update. once i was driving in the city and had the slam the brakes to stop for a red light, after that i had to almost floor the gas pedal to do 20kmph. the second time was after 2 hours of highway driving and i had to stop for the first traffic light off the highway, both times i remedied the issue by turning off the ignition and then re-starting the vehicle.

another time i had a slightly diff issue, half tank of gas but the rogue would not start after being parked for about 16 hours. i had to keep trying the ignition and pump the gas pedal to make to start. since then it was not happened again. pretty weird considering there was lots of gas left and i was parked on level ground.

stone
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i stop at a stop light. light turns green - vehicle goes no where when pushing the gas. rpms rev to 3,4,5K - my car is literally going MAYBE 5mph. mind you i'm in the middle of the intersection with my children in the car.
=======================================================================
2009 same happen to me once.

drspock
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Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:36 pm
Car: 2010 Rogue FWD 360 edition
2007 Scion tC

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I have had this exact problem as well in my 2010 Rogue FWD. The problem has only occurred after long periods of highway driving (~100+ miles) and after slowing down and not necessarily stopping the car seems to be stuck in overdrive. The car will rev up to ~3k RPM but the car does not accelerate. It feels as if you were riding the clutch and holding it half way in. Switching the car out of overdrive nor putting it in low gear nor flooring the accelerator has any effect. I have almost been in an accident because of it. I have not taken the car to the dealer yet, but will be taking it ASAP.

Leslie45
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Car: nissan rogue 2010

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I just bought a 2010 AWD Rogue last week and I experienced the same thing about three times now. This was just local driving, no highways yet. Although taking a trip on Monday and a little nervous about it now.
Feels like the car is going to die on me after accelerating after a stop. I really have to put on the gas for a few seconds to get it going normal again.
After reading these posts I decided to call a dealer to see if they have had similar problems with people bringing in their rogues. The guy there said no he never heard of it. He asked me if I had premium gas in it. I told him I didnt even fill up yet. Still has the gas the dealer put in it. He said to try putting premium in it. That the car requires high octain premium. So, I guess I will give that a try. Geez thought I would be saving money on the better gas milage. Guess I wont. :frown:
Please let me know if any of you had that problem and fixed it with the gas. Thanks.

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Eikon
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You definitely should not need premium gas. I wouldn't worry about that.

pa2
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Leslie45 wrote: After reading these posts I decided to call a dealer to see if they have had similar problems with people bringing in their rogues. The guy there said no he never heard of it. He asked me if I had premium gas in it. I told him I didnt even fill up yet. Still has the gas the dealer put in it. He said to try putting premium in it. That the car requires high octain premium.
I can tell you one thing and that is the guy who told you that does not know what he is talking about. :nono: Go back up and read my other post. I have not had any problems with my 2010 after the dealer put in a new valve body.

buffalorogue
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Car: Nissan Rogue

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For everyone having the "no accelation after highway driving" issue...take your car to the dealer and tell them to call Nissan if they've never heard of it. I am happy to report that I took a long drive this weekend and since getting the new transmission--NO PROBLEMS!

philipa_240sx
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There is a tech bulletin #NTB09-148 dealing with the control valve assembly. The control valve is what directs/controls fluid within the transmission for the CVT pulley, torque converter, etc. Without proper control, the CVT will not work.

A similar bulletin was issued for the Sentra awhile back. Now it appears it's out for both the Altima and Rogue as well. This could be the cause of many of these 'sluggish' acceleration issues.
NTB09148 - SB Altima/Rogue/Sentra; MIL "ON" w/DTC P0840/P0845/P0744/P1777

* IF YOU CONFIRM Any of the following DTCs are stored in the TCM: - P0840 - P0845 - P0744 - P1777 ACTIONS Replace the Control Valve Assembly with the part listed in the Parts Information section of this bulletin. Reference SECTION TM, CONTROL VALVE Removal and Inspection in the appropriate ESM for directions. Erase the EEP ROM calibration data in the TCM and allow it to recalibrate. Reference NTB08-064; CVT AND 5 SPEED A/T INITIALIZATION INFORMATION for directions.

sheena
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Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2010 10:56 am
Car: 2007 Nissan Rogue

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Im having the exact same problem with my 2007 rogue. Plus the Slip and VCD warning lights are also on. I took it to the Nissan service dept and after a week of having it they told me that they could not find anything wrong with it. No codes were coming up. I even had the foreman come test drive it with me, and he said there was obviously something wrong. Im bringing it in for the third time this week because i can not drive it. Its a safety issue. I have a baby in the back, and when i go to make left hand turns, i barely move, and at green lights i have people honking at me to go and swerving around me. HELP please!!!

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kerrton
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Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue SL FWD Gotham Gray
Location: Southern Alberta, Canada

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Weberrider wrote:The problem was a stop switch that tells the transmission that the car has stopped and must resume movement in a lower range in the transmission. The switch was failing and the trans did not get the signal that I had stopped. Basically like starting in 4th gear from a dead stop. Cost of repair was $158.00 and they did it in about 2 hours (they also did the steering recal)l.
Hi Sheena,

I think the advice above in this thread is a good start for addressing the sluggish performance. Mention it to your dealer as it was implemented as a solution in at least two cases documented in this thread.

In addition, the best advice I can give you is to calmly stress that this vehicle is huge safety hazard to you and your family and you do not want it returned until the issues is solved. FYI, if the service department acknowledges there is a problem - i.e. they duplicate the problem that you are having and they admit it is a problem, they must document and fix it, they cannot return a defective vehicle to you that is unsafe for the road. This applies to all vehicles, regardless if it's on warranty or not, the simple fact is that any certified service shop cannot let you drive away in a vehicle that they've diagnosed as unsafe. For example there are specific legislated minimum standards for brakes that service shops must respect, rotors that are beyond a certain thickness must be replaced or the vehicle is not road worthy. It sounds to me like your problems fall into this category, so please do not accept your vehicle back until it is fixed.

Also, your service dept. is very lazy, if they cannot determine the problem on their own, they know full well that they have access to the Nissan Tech. Service which provides engineering assesment and resolution of issues from Nissan experts. If they can't figure it out, all they have to do is give them a call and this is their standard operating procedure so don't buy it if they tell you otherwise. My service guys have called Tech Support twice already on my 2008 Rogue and I'm perfectly happy with that - I'd rather have someone working on my car who knows their limitations, knows when they're beat and isn't afraid to ask for help to get the job done right, rather than doing a bad job or even worse just avoiding any repair work.

Bottom line, take it in, don't take it back until it's fixed and please make sure you ask them SPECIFICALLY what the problem was and the solution, a good shop should ALWAYS tell the customer what was wrong with their vehicle and exactly what they did. Whether or not it's warranty work you have the right to know, and please post back here with the eventual outcome. Good luck.

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kerrton
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And regariding the ABS and VDC lights coming on, we've had a few reports of this, it's most likely a seperate issue than your acceleration problem, the problems were traced to faulty sensors or bad wiring to ABS sensors, all the details are in this thread:

post5390121.html?hilit=rogue%20abs%20lights#p5390121

This should give you lots of information when you take your car in, and really your service department should be able to diagnose and repair this themselves,especially if they use the Nissan Tech support. Be firm and make sure they fix it, and even more importantly FIX IT CORRECTLY, and the only way to know that is to talk to them and get all of the details. If they don't sound confident in what they've done, I wouldn't accept it, make it clear that you need a proper fix which is not asking too much.

sheena
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Car: 2007 Nissan Rogue

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Thank you so much for the information. I really appreciate your help. Thanks again!!

Kerbear
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Car: 2010 Nissan Rogue Krom

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The krom is back in again for this sluggish throttle after a long drive. RPMs rev with the foot to the floor and the car doesn't move.

Tech from corp. cam and he said that the throttle body needs to be replace because it get to hot after a long drive. He said tb fails to communcate with the transmission when it gets too hot. I hope this is a fix and not more smoke up the a$$

LadyRogue
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I totally had this acceleration issue a while back. I would get going on the onramp of the interstate, it wouldn't go! I'd have to step on the pedal HARD for it to go anywhere! It didn't matter how long I was driving the car.

Drove it straight to the dealership. They hooked the fuel lines up to the pressure monitor system, and it would totally DROP pressure when they stepped on the gas. Dropped by a lot. Came to find out my Rogue was the FIRST reported FUEL PUMP FAILURE! Got it replaced and I've had no more issues with acceleration.

Seriously, if you're still having issues, have them connect their fuel line pressure monitors and have them rev it up!

Edited to add: This was AFTER the CVT reprogramming recall was completed. My issue was NOT RELATED to the transmission. I have an '08.
Last edited by LadyRogue on Sat Aug 14, 2010 11:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

LadyRogue
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I had acceleration issues not all that long ago...after the CVT reprogramming recall. I'd start to get on the onramp of the interstate and it wouldn't go! Had to push it to the floor for it to go anywhere. Drove it right to the dealership...no codes. They connected the fuel line pressure monitors to the fuel line and realized that my fuel pressure actually DROPPED when they stepped on the gas with the monitors on.

My Rogue ended up being Nissan's first reported fuel pump failure. But really...if this sounds like what your car is doing, have them check your fuel pressures and have them rev it up while connected to see what happens. Tell them it's a rare but reported issue.


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