ABS code C1110 Controller Failure 2004 Quest SE

[schuylkill]

Recently when I brake occasionally I will hear a sound I've never experienced before and it's difficult to describe. I did a scan with a Foxwell NT 630Plus and Fault ABS 1 Fault l1, C1110 Controller Failure was reported. I cleared the code, maybe the wrong thing to do. I ordered a used ABS pump controller assembly. The last time I drove it of course there was no noise and the code is gone since I cleared it. The noise has been pretty regular after I cleared the code until the last drive. I don't know how many cycles required before it comes back if the problem is still there. The fluid in the reservoir is in the middle between Min and Max. I ordered Prestone Dot 3 fluid to add. Is that okay to use?

Does anyone know if the controller portion of the ABS assembly can be unbolted from the pump without any issues? The unit I purchased looks to be more corroded than the current one. If it is the controller and I can unbolt it on the assembly I bought the easiest thing would be to unbolt the "new" controller and RR the old one. The yard rated the one I bought as in "A" condition for what it's worth.

I can't imagine dealing with these hurricanes as so many must. Best of luck to you all.

[VStar650CL]

The high-current interfaces on most of Nissan's ABS controller boards are riveted or soldered to the assembly, so typically they can't be swapped out. Dunno about an '04 specifically, I can't recall ever having one apart. I'll just say it's doubtful you can easily swap it.

I wouldn't be too worried about the external condition of a JY unit, the guts are usually sealed up extremely well. The main thing is that the residual fluid coming out of it is clean.

[schuylkill]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9ZjZCyDT4dn36qr36

[VStar650CL]

Looks like a lot of shop and yard dust, but it seems like they pinched the lines off properly when they removed it. As long as the electrical connector looks decent, I'd just crack a fitting and see how the fluid looks. If that's decent too, give it a go.

[schuylkill]

There are 4 small bolts connecting the controller to the pump. What do you think of my suggestion to remove the controller from the JY unit and swap it with the bad unit on my van? The controller is a self contained unit, correct? Thanks for your input and have a good night. You retiring soon?

[VStar650CL]

If it will swap, sure. It probably won't, the screws in the housing usually just attach the plastic covers. The board underneath is usually soldered or riveted to the actuators. If you want to try it, disassemble your old one first to see if it's possible. If not, you won't be screwing up the JY unit.

In my experience, the vast majority of retirees lose their way, overutilize their arses, underutilize their brains, lose their purpose, and eventually roll over and die. That ain't me. I'll die with my boots on.

[schuylkill]

On Monday I planned to replace the controller. Today I filled the brake reservoir, it was about half way between min and max. I went out for a test drive and I got a Christmas tree of lights. ABS, emergency brake, traction control and more. Brakes seemed to work ok though for normal driving. Scanned and now have codes C1110 controller failure and C1126 right rear sensor failure. I read that replacing the controller without replacing the sensor could just short out the controller again. So I'm going to order a wheel speed sensor. I will pull the wheel and look behind the hub and clean things up somewhat. Any suggestions on replacing the sensor? The shop manual just says to bolt it on, I see no mention of where the cord runs and where it plugs in. It looks to be a good length with three grommets along it. Hopefully they are for mounting brackets that are accessible from underneath, I'll know when I look. It's a beautiful day here in southeast Pennsylvania.

[schuylkill]

Is it safe to drive if needed locally?

[VStar650CL]

Yah, you just won't have ABS. The sensors usually have about 2' of cable and plug into the car someplace underneath the wheel well liner.

[schuylkill]

I ordered speed sensors for all wheels, waiting for them before starting. Does the "new" abs controller need to be programmed after install? If yes can the vehicle be driven before this is done? As always thank you.

[VStar650CL]

Nope. On an '04 the controller should be plug-and-play as long as the part number is correct for the vehicle.

[schuylkill]

Any suggestions for removing the stem of a speed sensor if it breaks off when removing the sensor? I'm asking in preparation of the RR job. Saw a video where a guy used a glowing hot screw which he screwed into the stem, quenched it and pulled it out and it worked. I don't think I would spray the water, just wait for it to air cool if attempting that method. I've never had one break so I have no experience here. Read suggestions on not to drill it out, rather to remove hub assembly from the axle spline and use a punch to drive it out from the inside out. Also in thinking about how to best approach the scheduling of the work I have coming up which is replacing the speed sensors and the ABS controller, can the sensors be done separately from the controller and the bleeding without problems? So do the sensors one day and the rest later?

[VStar650CL]

Any suggestions for removing the stem of a speed sensor if it breaks off when removing the sensor? I'm asking in preparation of the RR job. Saw a video where a guy used a glowing hot screw which he screwed into the stem, quenched it and pulled it out and it worked. I don't think I would spray the water, just wait for it to air cool if attempting that method. I've never had one break so I have no experience here. Read suggestions on not to drill it out, rather to remove hub assembly from the axle spline and use a punch to drive it out from the inside out.

Everything I know about is some variation on those themes. You actually can safely drill out the center of the sensor, but not to the full diameter. Then you can try to break away the rest of the epoxy from the walls, but if you nick the walls with the drill it's done, replace the hub assembly,

Also in thinking about how to best approach the scheduling of the work I have coming up which is replacing the speed sensors and the ABS controller, can the sensors be done separately from the controller and the bleeding without problems? So do the sensors one day and the rest later?

The sensors and hydraulics basically have nothing to do with one another aside from both being connected to the ABS. So order of replacement isn't an issue.

[schuylkill]

I bought new calipers and hoses for all 4 wheels. My question is how to best drain the brake fluid when the bleeder bolts are rusted and being replaced anyway with the new calipers. I have a new tool I haven't used yet which attaches to the brake fluid reservoir with a cap and then a hose goes to a regulator and then to a tire for pressure. So I can pressurize without using the pedal. I was thinking that I should disconnect the hose line going to the caliper at each wheel for draining the fluid. Brake work like this is new to me and I'm getting old but still learning. Gives me more of a headache

[schuylkill]

I got a baster too. Should I start by sucking fluid out at the reservoir? I've never completely drained and replaced brake fluid. And it's pretty rusty.

[VStar650CL]

Unless you're replacing the master, I'd leave the reservoir alone until the stuff at the wheels is replaced. Since the hoses are getting tossed anyway, I wouldn't worry about draining anything. Once the new hardware is in place and you're ready to bleed, use your baster on the reservoir and then push fresh fluid into it from the top down.

[schuylkill]

The JY sent me the wrong controller. Supposedly they will refund my money but I'm out the return shipping. I have another one ordered from another JY that supposedly has the correct one but I don't have a warm feeling from that yard, they aren't in the business of customer support if you're not standing in front of them feels like. The part I received has 2 rows of pins on the plug, the one on the van has 3. I have no backup ride currently so I'm dead in the water. I am retired so it's not the end of the world but I thought I had everything well planned for the work. So much for that. The shop manual has the bleeding order as RR, LF, LR, RF. Does that seem correct? Also is there a work around for the adjustment of the Steering Angle Sensor Neutral Position? Hopefully the part arrives tomorrow but I most likely won't have it in time to finish up tomorrow so I'll miss my volunteer day on Saturday at the local animal shelter. I've got to get either a newer vehicle or a second one. Thinking about a Leaf or a Bolt.

[VStar650CL]

The shop manual has the bleeding order as RR, LF, LR, RF. Does that seem correct? Also is there a work around for the adjustment of the Steering Angle Sensor Neutral Position?

Yes, that's a typical pattern for an ABS block that's configured dual-diagonal internally (most of them are). I don't know of any work around for the SAS if your scanner doesn't support it.

[schuylkill]

I saw a note for an abs pump for a Corolla that stated:
All ABS pumps must be emptied when loaded on the vehicle. When emptying, it is necessary to ensure that there is oil in the pump before exhausting the air.

Could you explain this?

[VStar650CL]

Sounds like perfect Japlish for a bleed procedure.

[schuylkill]

HAR!! I get it now!!

[schuylkill]

Got the ABS Controller, calipers, pads, speed sensors and hoses installed. I used Speedibleed tool which uses tire air pressure for bleeding. That worked pretty well. Although the warning lights are out there is still a noise when braking. I didn't scan again but the owner of the Speedibleed company told me that any time the abs pump is replaced in order to remove the air from it a bidirectional scanner is required to open the outlet valves. I don't see this instruction in the shop manual but I'm hoping he's correct and there's still hope? What a contortionist job installing the controller. The fluid was ugly! I'm glad I got that renewed.

[VStar650CL]

You can pump any internal air out with a scanner using the ABS actuators, but it isn't usually necessary. For stubborn cases, one DIY technique that works without a scanner is to simply nail the brakes at medium speed and make the ABS unlock the wheels, then bleed the wheel cylinders again afterward. If there's any trapped air in the internal reservoirs, that pumps it out into the lines where a regular bleed can void it.

[schuylkill]

Van now shows C1126 code. I cleaned the rotor thoroughly, vents and mounting surface. I ordered a new speed sensor. Is it possible that only the speed sensor is bad and not the controller since only C1126 is reported, no longer C1110? There was quite a bit of rusted metal bits in the vents on the rotor and lodged behind the inner flange on the rotor. Also, would a solid rotor without vents be a better option to prevent this problem? I'm not going to drive it until I replace the sensor.

[VStar650CL]

C1126 isn't a sensor code, it's an open or shorted actuator coil. That's internal, you probably have another bad ABS.

[schuylkill]

That's it for me then unless I can find one dirt cheap.

[schuylkill]

Is it likely that the part was bad, or did a short at the speed sensor zap the actuator? I'm throwing away money.

[VStar650CL]

Bad part. The actuators are strictly internal, there's no way a sensor affects them. It's possible some solder got cracked in the JY if you can get it open to look. If that's the case, a retouch may fix it up.

[schuylkill]

What does the C1110 code tell about the controller failing? Could that have been a short from a bad sensor? Is that part possibly repairable? I'm soon of the mind to drive it with no abs. Thanks for your help.

[VStar650CL]

C1110 usually represents a checksum error in the main processor, meaning either the flash is corrupt or the core is damaged. Most of the ABS's from that era used discrete chips separate from the main processor to precondition the wheel signals, so it's unlikely a bad sensor could damage anything besides the discrete. That would give you a wheel code and not a processor failure.