About to start-up and Break-in motor!

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silvia_ca18det
Posts: 179
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2005 6:32 am
Car: 350whp ca18det drift silvia

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so i have triple checked everything with my motor build and i am positive she is ready for startup and breakin, just a few questions about oils you have used and about retourqueing head studs!

do i need to re tourque the ARP head studs i have after a few 100Km's or will they be fine? the head and block are matted with a Greddy metal gasket and was sprayed with a copper gasket spray.

also i got some regular castrol GTX 10W30 non synthetic oil for first startup will that be fine or should i be going with a even more simpler oil for first startup and breakin?



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kamikazi
Posts: 85
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2005 12:54 pm
Car: 1989 240sx coupe sr20det

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any fossil oil will do just fine. i have never broke in a car motor but like breaking in dirt bike and 4 wheeler motor you drive it like you stole it. your first 10 min is the most critical, you want compression to press the rings into the cyl walls and seat in. oh and dont crank it unless you plan on running it for full break in. hell just read over this site http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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IanS
Posts: 9758
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
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WHAT EVER YOU DO DO NOT , I SAY DO NOT BEAT ON A FRESHLY REBUILT MOTOR, THIS IS NOT A 2 CYCLE

if you start beating on that motor right away you will spin bearings, you need to be extremely nice to the motor

here is a link to a proper break in procedure, its the same for new cars and rebuilt motors

http://wheeltalk.fancal.net/?p=449

silvia_ca18det
Posts: 179
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2005 6:32 am
Car: 350whp ca18det drift silvia

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ok such a contreversial subject "drive it hard" "Drive it easy" what do you do.....this is a turbo engine so i would think pumping the positive pressure plus the pressure of the gasses would make for a better breakin process because all that pressure will bu pushing those rings out and seating them faster, doing it slow IMO would be bad because it will wear down the cross hatch of the bore but not wear down the rings as much! correct me if i am wrong but i think the drive it moderatly hard will be the best bet for a turbo motor! i am not going to be breaking it on on 20 psi and a crazy advanced timing i am going to run 10 psi with bit rich fuel mixture and timing probably at 10*, now i am planning on braking this in on a dyno so like the first article said.....

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from 40% - 60% of your engine's max rpmLet it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from 40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from 30% - 100% of your engine's max rpmLet it Cool Down For About 15 MinutesGo For It !!

now if someone can offer an argument on my to NOT do it that way i am all ears but for now this way makes the most sense to me and is probably the procedure that i am going to use!

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efrain240sx
Posts: 612
Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 12:14 pm
Car: 1992 nissan 240sx HB

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bump, I need more opinions. Need to break in my engine soon but don't know if I should break it in hard or softly.

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corey240
Posts: 3306
Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 10:04 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Base Drift Machine
Location: Cumberland, MD

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i just built my motor, and have been driving it in the hood a little. how many miles should i put on here befor racing and possible drifting.

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Morph
Posts: 2520
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 9:02 pm
Car: 91 Sr Powered Coupe

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When i got mine rebuilt I drove it like a grandma for a month. Shifting at 2.5-3k MAX. Every once in a while i would push it harder to 5 or 5.5k. After a month of around town and to school driving I beat it like a dead whore now and all's good. Motor sounds great, pulls hard and no weird noises other than my starter going limp. Thats what I did and my motors great

austins240
Posts: 410
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 1:28 pm
Car: 93 240SX HB, 89 Rolla GTS
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follow the reccomendations of your engine builder. Depending on the final hone, you will have to break in the engine in different ways. Also, depending on how the motor will be used and how long you want it to last will change break in procedures.

I reccomend changing the oil after bleeding the coolant the first time and then every 200-500 miles after that. cheap oil, no need to spend $40+ per oil change. use stock (or better but no FRAM) filters and magnetic oil plug.

my friend just had his built. according to the builder, he had to do 1000 miles under NO boost. Keep it under 4k rpm etc. we wired his waste gate open to help from building boost. so far so good. he just passed 1k, changed oil at 200-300 miles and is now boosting.



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