Aamco full of crap? Yay or nay?

[qship96]

Your car, your choice- If you got almost 50% out, one more 5 quart drain will get you to aprox 75% new fluid, and a third to 87% 15qt of new ATF seem awefully cheap if it extends the life of a $3000 transmission.

Anything less than brand new looking bright red fluid on the dipstick means you have not yet completed the job if your goal is to maximise the life of the expensive transmission.

Once you have it looking brand new, annual{15,000 mile max.} 5 qt drain will keep it that way.

[Jesda]

I don't see how a shop refusing to offer a service makes them dishonest. Ill-informed... maybe?

[jimbyjimb]

If you really love your transmission you'll throw in a bottle of Lubeguard ATF additive. If it were drinkable I'd do it.

[BadQ45t]

I learned the hard way, stay 1 million miles away from any AAMCO, rip-off artists in a huge way. i got suckered in by my local nissan dealer (long out of business) who said "this one is a very honest shop" and I got totally ripped.

I think that your transmission is for sure at end of life one way or the other start to budget for a new one.

[oldmako]

AAMCO=NO.

[maxnix]

If you really love your transmission you'll throw in a bottle of Lubeguard ATF additive. If it were drinkable I'd do it.

But with an M1 ATF fill, Red only! No Black.

[Alcyone]

It'll definatley need a few drain and fills. The fluid was still black out of the pan after one 5 quart drain and refill.

If you really love your transmission you'll throw in a bottle of Lubeguard ATF additive. If it were drinkable I'd do it.

Will do. Thanks for the advice.

[texasoil]

I have had both my Q45a's power flushed and am very pleased with the results and process. With the machine used it is impossible to damage anything. As the old fluid exits to the cooler( but diverted into the machine), new fluid is pushed through the cooler and into the transmission--volume for volume. What is amazing to me is how sharp the transition from old cloudy, off color fluid to bright sparking new fluid as the flush reaches completion. I expected a much more gradual transition, but it happened over less than 2 qts right at the end, all 3 times.

New fluid will not damage friction discs, but MAY lead to 'failure' soon as it starts removing the varnish built up in the transmission by the old fluid. Old hardened, varnish caked seal MAY swell and crack when the new fluid replenishes the seal conditioners long since depleted in the old fluid.

If you want to have any real prospect for transmission longevity, I strongly recommend the BG 'power flush treatment. It will not heal past damage to hard parts or worn clutches , it may rejuvinate hard seals, and it will give you the best probability of continued good service. Drive easy on an old transmission and they wil last an incredibly long time. Work it hard with high power shifts,etc and it may break before it gets through the first high torque shift.

[qship96]

So you like the BG treatment better than lubegard red? Or do you use both?

Guessing by your post, you are not a fan of using the BG chemical cleaner as a cleaning flush right before the fluid exchange?

[maxnix]

What is amazing to me is how sharp the transition from old cloudy, off color fluid to bright sparking new fluid as the flush reaches completion. I expected a much more gradual transition, but it happened over less than 2 qts right at the end, all 3 times.

If you want to have any real prospect for transmission longevity, I strongly recommend the BG 'power flush treatment. It will not heal past damage to hard parts or worn clutches , it may rejuvenate hard seals, and it will give you the best probability of continued good service.

Like I say, any difference in clarity or color is evidence of wear and therefore damage. When I do mine, I have to look very closely to detect any change in color. I have even had techs be disappointed it didn't come out black, brown, or even dark red. I just smile and say, "Got it just in time!"

But then those redline runs always come with a high power shift.