A long wait over.. Another Ka-T on the streets
Re: A long wait over.. Another Ka-T on the streets (480sx)
TWO INCHES! Two freaken inches of 3 inch stainless steel is stopping me from driving my fkin car after a year. AHHHH so aggravating..
Basically, all thats left for me to do is fabricate my cat piece. I thought i had everything i needed, flanges, a mandrel 90 bend, and the cat. Put my catback on and lined everything up, yea im short by two inches. Cant get any this weekend, will have to order some on monday and hopefully finish it up by next weekend..
At least its not another blown motor lol.
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spooled240
- Posts: 6487
- Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:45 pm
- Car: kouki s14
Re: (spooled240)
Lol thats actually a good idea, i should have checked some local shops. Still though 3 inch SS is kinda rare..
I mean ill def toss some pics up but the only difference in the pics is the freshly painted engine bay and some scrapes on my valve cover heh.
Yea its a stock Ka. You better believe i have 'plans' lol, the damn thing has my 50 trim t3t4 sittin on it.
Just cleaning the shop today, doing little stuff.
I mean ill def toss some pics up but the only difference in the pics is the freshly painted engine bay and some scrapes on my valve cover heh.
Yea its a stock Ka. You better believe i have 'plans' lol, the damn thing has my 50 trim t3t4 sittin on it.
Just cleaning the shop today, doing little stuff.
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spooled240
- Posts: 6487
- Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:45 pm
- Car: kouki s14
yea, SS pipes are kinda hard to come by as scrap let alone a big 3"...I have quite a bit of scrap 3" SS pipes, I would just cut you 2" if you lived a tad closer lol
but boost that bisch, a stock ka after 6 months of 10psi and mad torque for me felt like I was driving a scandia go-kart with a bad plug
but boost that bisch, a stock ka after 6 months of 10psi and mad torque for me felt like I was driving a scandia go-kart with a bad plug
Re: (spooled240)
WooT
Been driving my turbocharged 240 around now for the last 3 hours, no major problems at all. At cruising rpms/speeds it drives great. Im going easy on it for 1000 miles to break in the clutch so not much boosting. It will go into boost and hold boost well at low throttle, but if you give it more it starts to break up. Could be quite a few things, all of which will get checked out here in a little while.
Heres a few pics that i snapped 2nite.. You really cant even see the IC unless your looking at it from a low angle, sleeper status. If you ignore the 3 inch exhaust lol. However i do have a cat, resonator, and a muffler on it(BRM Catback, bought from Nico). The cars got a great sound to it, even at low rpm. Vibrates like hell because of those damned poly mounts, if your going daily do NOT get the poly mounts unless you dont mind your car making rattle sounds 360 degrees around you.. Im going to have to do something about that in the future.
Going back out drivin mang ~
Been driving my turbocharged 240 around now for the last 3 hours, no major problems at all. At cruising rpms/speeds it drives great. Im going easy on it for 1000 miles to break in the clutch so not much boosting. It will go into boost and hold boost well at low throttle, but if you give it more it starts to break up. Could be quite a few things, all of which will get checked out here in a little while.
Heres a few pics that i snapped 2nite.. You really cant even see the IC unless your looking at it from a low angle, sleeper status. If you ignore the 3 inch exhaust lol. However i do have a cat, resonator, and a muffler on it(BRM Catback, bought from Nico). The cars got a great sound to it, even at low rpm. Vibrates like hell because of those damned poly mounts, if your going daily do NOT get the poly mounts unless you dont mind your car making rattle sounds 360 degrees around you.. Im going to have to do something about that in the future.
Going back out drivin mang ~
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spooled240
- Posts: 6487
- Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:45 pm
- Car: kouki s14
Re: (480sx)
nice! how much boost did you get so far?
Re: (spooled240)
Well the car runs fkin great. Im even able to give it WoT below 3g's and it doesnt break up, that seems to be a random problem. Sometimes it happens, sometimes the car pulls hard. Have to look into that later.
I was hitting like 5-7 psi under 3 g's.
Tommarow ill get into some updates on how the cat piece fabrication went. Hehe we got a little creative.. Made a 3 inch piece of stainless steel tube out of a 4 inch diameter one.
I was hitting like 5-7 psi under 3 g's.
Tommarow ill get into some updates on how the cat piece fabrication went. Hehe we got a little creative.. Made a 3 inch piece of stainless steel tube out of a 4 inch diameter one.
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spooled240
- Posts: 6487
- Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:45 pm
- Car: kouki s14
Re: (spooled240)
Drove 120 miles today, into WV and around in MD. Car ran great the whole time. Oh man im loving that turbo. Since im getting so... 'acoustomed'.. with low rpm for the moment, i took some time and played with spool characteristics, to see when/how much the 50 trim started to blow.
Im seeing boost by 2000 rpm, by 2500 im at 8-9 and by 3000 rpm im at full boost(12 psi).
It doesnt want to boost over 10 psi right now, feels kinda like an ignition thing im not sure. It just kind of chatters at 9-10 psi, not violently however. Just been drivin it heh, got burnt out on working on it. Next weekend ill figure it out. For now just DDing its fun as hell.
Oh my freaken odometer stopped working today(would have been the second car that iv had that happen on).. I was really in a panic about it but then about 10 miles later it started to count again, realllyy slowly. After 5 miles of that it worked 100 percent again, so idk what to expect out of it. Only 124000 on the ODO.
Didnt take enough pics as it turns out of the cat piece fab job, ill have to do that later.
Modified by 480sx at 7:45 PM 3/9/2008
Im seeing boost by 2000 rpm, by 2500 im at 8-9 and by 3000 rpm im at full boost(12 psi).
It doesnt want to boost over 10 psi right now, feels kinda like an ignition thing im not sure. It just kind of chatters at 9-10 psi, not violently however. Just been drivin it heh, got burnt out on working on it. Next weekend ill figure it out. For now just DDing its fun as hell.
Oh my freaken odometer stopped working today(would have been the second car that iv had that happen on).. I was really in a panic about it but then about 10 miles later it started to count again, realllyy slowly. After 5 miles of that it worked 100 percent again, so idk what to expect out of it. Only 124000 on the ODO.
Didnt take enough pics as it turns out of the cat piece fab job, ill have to do that later.
Modified by 480sx at 7:45 PM 3/9/2008
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spooled240
- Posts: 6487
- Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:45 pm
- Car: kouki s14
Re: (spooled240)
Spent most of today driving, put like 150 miles on the car. Its still running great man, i love it.
Still have a bucking issue, it really only hits in 5th gear. Its not a violent buck, it just smaller ones that hit really close together, and wont let me rev unless i drop throttle, and most of the way out of boost. It reeks of a boost leak, it pretty much only happens 5th gear when i hit 12 psi. Iv had it hit 4th gear like two times out of many WoT 3000 rpm pulls. Ran a boost leak test, i found one, fixed it, didnt fix my problem. Found another, a little air leaking out of that little rubber ring that keeps the injectors seated. Fixed that, didnt fix my problem. Soo im going to run another boost test asap and see if its that.
The main reason i was driving today was so i could break in my clutch all the way. At about the 400 mile mark i could definitely tell that the clutch had broken in, it feels freaken awesome. So after that 400 mile mark, my odometer finally took a **** on me, gona have to do some research about that problem. Hopefully its a simple fix.
I was on the last leg of my break in process when i noticed my oil pressure wouldnt rise over 25 psi under 3000 rpms. I was just getting ready to beat on it a little bit too.. Since i knew that my oil pump was in great shape i figured there was only one thing it could be. Sure enough, my oil reeked of gas and had pretty much completely broken down over the course of 500 miles. At first i was thinking my compression was bad, tested it and it came to 160 across the board. A bit low, but wouldnt explain my problem. So im thinking(hoping..) that im just running rich or something, i have an occasional backfire to support that theory. Realllyyy dont want to mess with my SAFC till i know what im doing to my AFR's so for now, just gona keep the oil changed. I lost my fkin tuning cable that goes between my WB controller and my laptop, so i have a new one of those in the mail.
On a different note, im going to Montana week after this one to go boarding with my boys! So stoked.. Going to Big Mountain , its near Glacier National Mountain Park. Iv been there before, its some of the best riding iv ever done in my life.
Still have a bucking issue, it really only hits in 5th gear. Its not a violent buck, it just smaller ones that hit really close together, and wont let me rev unless i drop throttle, and most of the way out of boost. It reeks of a boost leak, it pretty much only happens 5th gear when i hit 12 psi. Iv had it hit 4th gear like two times out of many WoT 3000 rpm pulls. Ran a boost leak test, i found one, fixed it, didnt fix my problem. Found another, a little air leaking out of that little rubber ring that keeps the injectors seated. Fixed that, didnt fix my problem. Soo im going to run another boost test asap and see if its that.
The main reason i was driving today was so i could break in my clutch all the way. At about the 400 mile mark i could definitely tell that the clutch had broken in, it feels freaken awesome. So after that 400 mile mark, my odometer finally took a **** on me, gona have to do some research about that problem. Hopefully its a simple fix.
I was on the last leg of my break in process when i noticed my oil pressure wouldnt rise over 25 psi under 3000 rpms. I was just getting ready to beat on it a little bit too.. Since i knew that my oil pump was in great shape i figured there was only one thing it could be. Sure enough, my oil reeked of gas and had pretty much completely broken down over the course of 500 miles. At first i was thinking my compression was bad, tested it and it came to 160 across the board. A bit low, but wouldnt explain my problem. So im thinking(hoping..) that im just running rich or something, i have an occasional backfire to support that theory. Realllyyy dont want to mess with my SAFC till i know what im doing to my AFR's so for now, just gona keep the oil changed. I lost my fkin tuning cable that goes between my WB controller and my laptop, so i have a new one of those in the mail.
On a different note, im going to Montana week after this one to go boarding with my boys! So stoked.. Going to Big Mountain , its near Glacier National Mountain Park. Iv been there before, its some of the best riding iv ever done in my life.
Re: (480sx)
Ka # TWO dead, rod knock.Two possible culprits this time. Either a stretched a rod bolt, or.... Oil starvation, again. Since i rebuilt the bottom end, hoping the reused rod bolts would be fine, i cant narrow it down to an oil issue yet. Have to tear it down to figure out what went wrong this time (i have two motors to tear down ).
I had told you guys that i was having a problem with gas in my oil, well shortly after i noticed it and changed my oil...... I was driving down my neighborhood in light throttle when i started to hear this ticking noise. It got worse real fast, within 1000 feet. I pulled into the culdisac not quite sure what to do, and popped my hood. Within this time the noise got so loud and i just had this huge moment of panic like, TURN IT OFF FFS, NOOO! Reality hit, towed it back to my house with the realization that iv blown two motors and put less than 600 miles on my car in that time.
I thought my PCV system wasnt working at first. After taking it off however it was 1/4th full of.. Black Gas.... Im really kinda miffed by the whole thing, i guess my tune was just really rich. Gona have to check on that with the WBO2 when i get it runnin again. I lost my tuning cable that connects to my Zeitronix controller so i wasnt able to check the AFR's myself i just relyed on the rom tune, bad move. Even had the damn WBO2 sensor and controller installed, working, but had no way to veiw its data. I got the cable in the mail the same day my engine blew, pretty chitty.
Shrugged it off, and got a smoken deal on a 100k mile Ka motor from Logan, a member here. Drove up to Pa to pick it up, had an adventure. Didnt have any spare tires for the mini trailer lying around and i went out without a spare like a retard, and paid for it. Spent the night in my car wrapped up in a dog blanket, pretty great stuff. Logans a really cool guy, helped me out a ton with the blow out on the trailer. Got home, got the engine in my shop and its sitting there still.
So figured id go ahead and bang out the swap in a weekend, started taking off my intercooler pipes. Noticed a tiny amount of oil in the compressor housing which blew me away. Checked for play, and there was a considerable amount of it. Then i noticed that there had actually been contact between the compressor wheel and the housing. I spent the next 5 min cursing loudly. 450 dollar 'brand new' garrett turbo toasted within 600 miles. Turbos dont like gas apparently. At this point i just pulled the engine, and its just been sitting. Had no cash for a new turbo at the time so this burned me pretty bad. I could have put the motor in, but its so much easier just to drop the complete motor with turbo and downpipe attached and be done with it.
So i did a google search for turbo rebuilders and actually found one within 25 min of my house! Was really stoked, and went down there to see what could be done. I knew from information previously gathered that any contact with the housing, regardless of how light was the end of the blades so i already had the compressor wheel and turbine priced. Got there, and got some pretty bad news. My turbo's center section was toast. At this point i started talking to him about getting a new turbo, and was pretty set on stickin with the ol 50 trim. So we start talking turbos, man i talked to this guy for like 3 hours. Probably one of the most knowledgeable guys i have ever met, hes done it all. 454 turbocharged drag boats, turbo bikes, to his old school camero sittin in his garage with a big block and a S360(? something close to that). Iv probably talked to this guy for 6-7 hours in total, learned soo much about turbo's, ect. He was really pushing the Borg Warner / Bullseye Power extended tip turbos. He showed me that the turbine wheel was only slightly bigger than that of my 50 trim(was worried about lag for my DD). In addition to that, the ability to move CFMs is almost 2/3rd more than the 50 trim when compared to the extended tip BW. Decided to go ahead with the S258. He hooked me up with a crazy deal on a brand new one, and agreed to machine my exhaust housing to match the turbine for practically nothing. I paid 300 dollars more than what a rebuilt t3/t4 would have cost me. Going to pick up this bad boy tomorrow, i am SO FKIN SIKED! This turbos good till almost 600 hp, and should give me quick enough spool. If not ill just go to a smaller AR housing, and go from there. Plan on DD 14 psi of boost, right at the base of this turbos peak efficiency island. Should be sick once i get a alchy injection setup and run higher boost levels. Or once i build my track s14 running MS and E85.
Onto some random pics...
Heres ka number one(right) and Logans ka(in his sweet custom engine crate), number three.
Heres number two.. (i also have ka number 4,5, and 6 to mess with hehe.. People just give these damn things away)
This is the reason my car wont be on the road by sunday. My buddy is being a.. Has this monstrosity of a Jeep Comanchee stuck on the lift and isnt working on it. Ask him, like man whens this thing out of here? 'Well, im not in town this weekend(hasnt worked on it all week.. )'.
No rear end, very difficult to move because its so damn tall(and only has two wheels hehe).
I really wanted to take pics of my blown turbo but i couldnt get the damage to show up on my camera so its kinda pointless, just looks like turbo parts lying around. I think im going to drill a hole in the end of the turbine shaft and hang it from my rear veiw mirror hehe, think thad be pretty neat.
Learned so much from all of this. Instead of smelling my oil, im going to carry a lighter with me from now on. If the oil lights up, change it. No more of this sniffing BS.. Also, trusting a rom tune to be perfect isnt a good idea. I will never run a turbo charged car without first checking AFRs with a WBO2 again.
So thats where my ka-t sits now.
Still waiting
Modified by 480sx at 2:50 PM 5/8/2008
I had told you guys that i was having a problem with gas in my oil, well shortly after i noticed it and changed my oil...... I was driving down my neighborhood in light throttle when i started to hear this ticking noise. It got worse real fast, within 1000 feet. I pulled into the culdisac not quite sure what to do, and popped my hood. Within this time the noise got so loud and i just had this huge moment of panic like, TURN IT OFF FFS, NOOO! Reality hit, towed it back to my house with the realization that iv blown two motors and put less than 600 miles on my car in that time.
I thought my PCV system wasnt working at first. After taking it off however it was 1/4th full of.. Black Gas.... Im really kinda miffed by the whole thing, i guess my tune was just really rich. Gona have to check on that with the WBO2 when i get it runnin again. I lost my tuning cable that connects to my Zeitronix controller so i wasnt able to check the AFR's myself i just relyed on the rom tune, bad move. Even had the damn WBO2 sensor and controller installed, working, but had no way to veiw its data. I got the cable in the mail the same day my engine blew, pretty chitty.
Shrugged it off, and got a smoken deal on a 100k mile Ka motor from Logan, a member here. Drove up to Pa to pick it up, had an adventure. Didnt have any spare tires for the mini trailer lying around and i went out without a spare like a retard, and paid for it. Spent the night in my car wrapped up in a dog blanket, pretty great stuff. Logans a really cool guy, helped me out a ton with the blow out on the trailer. Got home, got the engine in my shop and its sitting there still.
So figured id go ahead and bang out the swap in a weekend, started taking off my intercooler pipes. Noticed a tiny amount of oil in the compressor housing which blew me away. Checked for play, and there was a considerable amount of it. Then i noticed that there had actually been contact between the compressor wheel and the housing. I spent the next 5 min cursing loudly. 450 dollar 'brand new' garrett turbo toasted within 600 miles. Turbos dont like gas apparently. At this point i just pulled the engine, and its just been sitting. Had no cash for a new turbo at the time so this burned me pretty bad. I could have put the motor in, but its so much easier just to drop the complete motor with turbo and downpipe attached and be done with it.
So i did a google search for turbo rebuilders and actually found one within 25 min of my house! Was really stoked, and went down there to see what could be done. I knew from information previously gathered that any contact with the housing, regardless of how light was the end of the blades so i already had the compressor wheel and turbine priced. Got there, and got some pretty bad news. My turbo's center section was toast. At this point i started talking to him about getting a new turbo, and was pretty set on stickin with the ol 50 trim. So we start talking turbos, man i talked to this guy for like 3 hours. Probably one of the most knowledgeable guys i have ever met, hes done it all. 454 turbocharged drag boats, turbo bikes, to his old school camero sittin in his garage with a big block and a S360(? something close to that). Iv probably talked to this guy for 6-7 hours in total, learned soo much about turbo's, ect. He was really pushing the Borg Warner / Bullseye Power extended tip turbos. He showed me that the turbine wheel was only slightly bigger than that of my 50 trim(was worried about lag for my DD). In addition to that, the ability to move CFMs is almost 2/3rd more than the 50 trim when compared to the extended tip BW. Decided to go ahead with the S258. He hooked me up with a crazy deal on a brand new one, and agreed to machine my exhaust housing to match the turbine for practically nothing. I paid 300 dollars more than what a rebuilt t3/t4 would have cost me. Going to pick up this bad boy tomorrow, i am SO FKIN SIKED! This turbos good till almost 600 hp, and should give me quick enough spool. If not ill just go to a smaller AR housing, and go from there. Plan on DD 14 psi of boost, right at the base of this turbos peak efficiency island. Should be sick once i get a alchy injection setup and run higher boost levels. Or once i build my track s14 running MS and E85.
Onto some random pics...
Heres ka number one(right) and Logans ka(in his sweet custom engine crate), number three.
Heres number two.. (i also have ka number 4,5, and 6 to mess with hehe.. People just give these damn things away)
This is the reason my car wont be on the road by sunday. My buddy is being a.. Has this monstrosity of a Jeep Comanchee stuck on the lift and isnt working on it. Ask him, like man whens this thing out of here? 'Well, im not in town this weekend(hasnt worked on it all week.. )'.
No rear end, very difficult to move because its so damn tall(and only has two wheels hehe).
I really wanted to take pics of my blown turbo but i couldnt get the damage to show up on my camera so its kinda pointless, just looks like turbo parts lying around. I think im going to drill a hole in the end of the turbine shaft and hang it from my rear veiw mirror hehe, think thad be pretty neat.
Learned so much from all of this. Instead of smelling my oil, im going to carry a lighter with me from now on. If the oil lights up, change it. No more of this sniffing BS.. Also, trusting a rom tune to be perfect isnt a good idea. I will never run a turbo charged car without first checking AFRs with a WBO2 again.
So thats where my ka-t sits now.
Still waiting
Modified by 480sx at 2:50 PM 5/8/2008
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eazye2000
- Posts: 1880
- Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2005 9:42 am
- Car: S13 KA-DET
- Location: Inverness, FL
- Contact:
Re: (kpc_0721)
God bless man. I feel for ya. And I thought I had it rough waiting to get parts....
Keep us updated. If you need to vent, hit me up on AIM. I'm always around. I'm full of idea's, too.
Keep us updated. If you need to vent, hit me up on AIM. I'm always around. I'm full of idea's, too.
Re: (eazye2000)
Been workin on the car since friday. Had a bunch of errands to run, redoing my oiling system. Didnt like the oil sending unit to be screwed directly into the T off my block so, switching that up. Also got a turbo filter, filters down to 6 microns, anything else will go right through the turbo. I mean why not run one of these things in case i blow another engine, or whatever. Protecting a big investment with a 100 dollar filter seemed like a good idea.
Had soo much bs slow me down today, it was just one thing after the next. This new block of mine is a fkin piece of work, it had alll these stupid little problems that needed to be addressed. I also broke a SS bolt off when i pulled my downpipe off of my wastegate.. This took me an hour and a half to get it out, i officially hate stainless steel. Also had a bunch of work to do on my fuel rail, i think i MAY have found why my last engine washed the cyl walls. Ill let you guys know when i get it back on the road.
To top it off, it was like 11 pm and i was getting kinda frustrated with the block. So i pull the oil dip stick out for whatever reason and try to put it back in. Wont go back in.. FFS WTF. Had to pull the damned dip stick out of the block and find that there was a place where the tube had been crushed somehow, fixed that.
So the block is pretty much preped at this point, im going to drop the motor in today and wire everything up. Heres a few pics..
My new engine
Since i had the oil pan off i figured id snap a few pics since i didnt have any lying around. The JGS bung was milled out at a 30 degrees angle to ensure good drainage. It was tigged from the inside.
Now for the fun pic hehe. Most of the time, pulling an oil pan wont tell you where your motor failed. I knew it was rod knock so i was checking the rod caps and found this. That bearing is supposed to be inside that cap, lol.
Now its back out to the beast.
Had soo much bs slow me down today, it was just one thing after the next. This new block of mine is a fkin piece of work, it had alll these stupid little problems that needed to be addressed. I also broke a SS bolt off when i pulled my downpipe off of my wastegate.. This took me an hour and a half to get it out, i officially hate stainless steel. Also had a bunch of work to do on my fuel rail, i think i MAY have found why my last engine washed the cyl walls. Ill let you guys know when i get it back on the road.
To top it off, it was like 11 pm and i was getting kinda frustrated with the block. So i pull the oil dip stick out for whatever reason and try to put it back in. Wont go back in.. FFS WTF. Had to pull the damned dip stick out of the block and find that there was a place where the tube had been crushed somehow, fixed that.
So the block is pretty much preped at this point, im going to drop the motor in today and wire everything up. Heres a few pics..
My new engine
Since i had the oil pan off i figured id snap a few pics since i didnt have any lying around. The JGS bung was milled out at a 30 degrees angle to ensure good drainage. It was tigged from the inside.
Now for the fun pic hehe. Most of the time, pulling an oil pan wont tell you where your motor failed. I knew it was rod knock so i was checking the rod caps and found this. That bearing is supposed to be inside that cap, lol.
Now its back out to the beast.
-
WDRacing
- Moderator
- Posts: 15983
- Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 2:00 am
- Car: 95 240SX, 99 BMW 540i, 01 Chevy Express, 14 Ford Escape
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- Contact:
Wow man...not much else I can say. You're pretty determined though and thats good. So many people simply give up. Mine has been sitting for years now...I still don't know if I'm staying with the KA.
Definitly sort your oil/fuel problem before you leave the driveway man. What ROM tune were you using? Did you have an injector leak?
I lost a KA to rod knock, but mine went from knock to throwing a rod through the block in a hurry. If I stay KA, the oil pump and timing set will be 100% brand new OEM parts at a minimum.
The oil filter pre turbo is a damn good idea, so long as it doesn't impede oil pressure that is. I have often thought of installing an inlive sender just before the turbo so I know the real pressure the turbo is seeing. That way I can adjust with restrictors etc.
Borg Warner is a good turbo...I'm all about what's available and for how much. Since I can't afford a baller GT spec turbo or twin scroll unit, I usually settle for something that will make boost for a decent amount of money.
Will be interesting to see how your's does with spool. What are the specs for it?
PS, you ever read that article?
WD
Definitly sort your oil/fuel problem before you leave the driveway man. What ROM tune were you using? Did you have an injector leak?
I lost a KA to rod knock, but mine went from knock to throwing a rod through the block in a hurry. If I stay KA, the oil pump and timing set will be 100% brand new OEM parts at a minimum.
The oil filter pre turbo is a damn good idea, so long as it doesn't impede oil pressure that is. I have often thought of installing an inlive sender just before the turbo so I know the real pressure the turbo is seeing. That way I can adjust with restrictors etc.
Borg Warner is a good turbo...I'm all about what's available and for how much. Since I can't afford a baller GT spec turbo or twin scroll unit, I usually settle for something that will make boost for a decent amount of money.
Will be interesting to see how your's does with spool. What are the specs for it?
PS, you ever read that article?
WD
Re: (WDRacing)
Thanks, this has been my dream since i was 13, owning a turbo 240, so its not something i can just give up on. Im getting so much flack from my family too for this hah you dont even know. I just shrug it off really. My whole thing is, iv dumped around 7g's(when the cars running im going to go through and figure out exactly how much iv spent..) into this car on top of the initial investment of the car itself and have nothing to show for it besides experience and knowledge. I need something more than that .
Dude im sticking with the Ka for a while. Its such a great choice for so many reasons. Off the top of my head... Availability, price, its user friendly, 27-28 mpg if your setups right, and its a torquey sob.
Man im using an Enthalpy ECU, according to him none of his tunes have never taken out a motor like that and i believe him.
Its gotta be something with my injectors or fuel rail, i cant think what else would do this. I checked my fuel rail before i put that 500 miles on the car for leaks and there were none, however that doesnt mean that it didnt spring a leak or something. I even pulled the injectors out of the rail and all the o-rings were in fine shape. I found something really stupid that i did that could have caused one of the injectors to not atomize fuel properly, but im not really sure yet, and its a stretch of an idea.
Im kinda leaning towards me having a bad injector now that i think about it.. Actually im almost sure thats the problem. I cant believe i didnt realize this before... On my first build i was having a bad backfiring problem, partly due to a warped head(.003 + MLS HG). I ran the car once without headers on it, not the best idea but it was done. I noticed that it would only backfire out of cylinder four. In addition to this, cylinder four's exhaust port was wet with fuel while the other cylinders were dry. Fast forward to Ka number two. Still had a slight backfiring problem at idle, although not nearly as bad as ka number one. Dismissed it, ran the motor, it blew. The exhaust smelled like it was rich too, but didnt set off any alarms(man i made some dumb mistakes).
Man im not even going to run this motor without getting those used Sard 550cc injectors i picked up off ebay serviced. Im going out right now and pulling those injectors and sending them to D-Werks in the morn. Iv waited a longg freaken time already, whats another week or two.
What pisses me off the most, KA number two was in pristine shape man.. Iv never seen a 160k mile motor with no sludge buildup, no oil coking, perfect cams, and 160 compression across the board. When i pulled the bearings out of ka #2 the had NO signs of wear at all, they looked brand freaken new. Now im stuck with this 100k mile motor thats been abused.. Haha WD you kinda dodged a bullet man. Ill take some pics sometime but i can explain it well enough. When i pulled the valve cover off the motor i picked up from logan, my eyes were caught by a ton of shiny metal between the two cam sprockets. Someone had taken an angle grinder to the fkin head dude.. I cant believe i didnt take a pic of it hah. From the looks of it, the upper timing chain gaurd snapped off, and got lodged into the cam sprocket, and dug itself into the head. Its the only thing that explains the ground out head right there. In addition, there is burnt oil stuck on every piece under the valve cover. Thats my rant for 2nite heh. Going out to pull these injectors.
Ahh hell this was supposed to be a short post LMAO, man im bad at that. Might as well post up some pics of my work today before i yank these injectors. I had some fun and got creative. First, i spent some time making a bracket for my remote mounted oil pressure sending unit. I made it out of a big worm drive clamp that i hacked the slotted part off of and just kept the band. I then welded(its SS, but i miged it anyway, not enough tig experience) it together in a circle to go around my pressure sending unit, leaving a tab where the bolt could hold it down to the intake manifold. Heres a pic of that.
Switched up my oiling setup. Heres a pic of whats comming off my block.
The blue line was screwed into one side of my turbo filter. The turbo filter must be mounted at the oil level. If its not, the oil will drain out of the filter and you will get a dry period in your turbo before the filter fills back up with oil when starting your car.
TO THE BATCAVE
EDIT - WD that artical is amazing, iv only read a bit of it but its enthraling. Thanks a ton for that link.
Dude im sticking with the Ka for a while. Its such a great choice for so many reasons. Off the top of my head... Availability, price, its user friendly, 27-28 mpg if your setups right, and its a torquey sob.
Man im using an Enthalpy ECU, according to him none of his tunes have never taken out a motor like that and i believe him.
Its gotta be something with my injectors or fuel rail, i cant think what else would do this. I checked my fuel rail before i put that 500 miles on the car for leaks and there were none, however that doesnt mean that it didnt spring a leak or something. I even pulled the injectors out of the rail and all the o-rings were in fine shape. I found something really stupid that i did that could have caused one of the injectors to not atomize fuel properly, but im not really sure yet, and its a stretch of an idea.
Im kinda leaning towards me having a bad injector now that i think about it.. Actually im almost sure thats the problem. I cant believe i didnt realize this before... On my first build i was having a bad backfiring problem, partly due to a warped head(.003 + MLS HG). I ran the car once without headers on it, not the best idea but it was done. I noticed that it would only backfire out of cylinder four. In addition to this, cylinder four's exhaust port was wet with fuel while the other cylinders were dry. Fast forward to Ka number two. Still had a slight backfiring problem at idle, although not nearly as bad as ka number one. Dismissed it, ran the motor, it blew. The exhaust smelled like it was rich too, but didnt set off any alarms(man i made some dumb mistakes).
Man im not even going to run this motor without getting those used Sard 550cc injectors i picked up off ebay serviced. Im going out right now and pulling those injectors and sending them to D-Werks in the morn. Iv waited a longg freaken time already, whats another week or two.
What pisses me off the most, KA number two was in pristine shape man.. Iv never seen a 160k mile motor with no sludge buildup, no oil coking, perfect cams, and 160 compression across the board. When i pulled the bearings out of ka #2 the had NO signs of wear at all, they looked brand freaken new. Now im stuck with this 100k mile motor thats been abused.. Haha WD you kinda dodged a bullet man. Ill take some pics sometime but i can explain it well enough. When i pulled the valve cover off the motor i picked up from logan, my eyes were caught by a ton of shiny metal between the two cam sprockets. Someone had taken an angle grinder to the fkin head dude.. I cant believe i didnt take a pic of it hah. From the looks of it, the upper timing chain gaurd snapped off, and got lodged into the cam sprocket, and dug itself into the head. Its the only thing that explains the ground out head right there. In addition, there is burnt oil stuck on every piece under the valve cover. Thats my rant for 2nite heh. Going out to pull these injectors.
Ahh hell this was supposed to be a short post LMAO, man im bad at that. Might as well post up some pics of my work today before i yank these injectors. I had some fun and got creative. First, i spent some time making a bracket for my remote mounted oil pressure sending unit. I made it out of a big worm drive clamp that i hacked the slotted part off of and just kept the band. I then welded(its SS, but i miged it anyway, not enough tig experience) it together in a circle to go around my pressure sending unit, leaving a tab where the bolt could hold it down to the intake manifold. Heres a pic of that.
Switched up my oiling setup. Heres a pic of whats comming off my block.
The blue line was screwed into one side of my turbo filter. The turbo filter must be mounted at the oil level. If its not, the oil will drain out of the filter and you will get a dry period in your turbo before the filter fills back up with oil when starting your car.
TO THE BATCAVE
EDIT - WD that artical is amazing, iv only read a bit of it but its enthraling. Thanks a ton for that link.
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joenismos15
- Posts: 173
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:16 am
- Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx SE
Re: (480sx)
Nice to see that your on your way again for the umpteenth time! kill those engine gremilns that are running around your garage will ya!
Re: (joenismos15)
Heh, damn gremlins..
Sent my injectors out this morning express mail, D-Werks will have them tomorrow by 12. Id love to get them back by saturday, we'll see.
Had to figure out some way to mount the turbo oil filter, and ended up with a nice solution. I used some 1/8th inch aluminum stock and made a plate that bolts up to where my AC bracket should be. I wanted to use our mill but we dont have the tooling for it yet, really frustrating. So i just used the drill press. My original plan was to use worm drive clamps to attach the plate to the filter, but that plan got derailed.. lol dont ask. I didnt have any extra T-bolts or anything so i just used zip ties for now. Should hold long enough for me to get a new plate water jetted(sounds way more expensive than it really is) out and fab a real bracket to hold the filter. Still, the result was pretty sweet, im happy with the way it came out. Heres a few pics.
The plate itself
Block with the plate + filter. I know in that pic it looks like the oil line is going where the MM has to go, but theres enough line there to move it away so its not a problem.
Filter
Ignore that RTV.. My lower timing cover had a scratch in it there from where some jerk pried into it with a screw driver and messed up the sealing surface, theres a tiny oil leak there, its barely noticeable. Saw a little oil there after i had the engine on its side for a few hours. The RTV is a bandaid, i just dont feel like taking the valve cover, timing cover, and the pan of and redoing all that ish. Shouldnt have reused the same lower timing cover, oh well. It had the fresh seals and oil pump in it though.
Modified by 480sx at 10:34 PM 5/19/2008
Sent my injectors out this morning express mail, D-Werks will have them tomorrow by 12. Id love to get them back by saturday, we'll see.
Had to figure out some way to mount the turbo oil filter, and ended up with a nice solution. I used some 1/8th inch aluminum stock and made a plate that bolts up to where my AC bracket should be. I wanted to use our mill but we dont have the tooling for it yet, really frustrating. So i just used the drill press. My original plan was to use worm drive clamps to attach the plate to the filter, but that plan got derailed.. lol dont ask. I didnt have any extra T-bolts or anything so i just used zip ties for now. Should hold long enough for me to get a new plate water jetted(sounds way more expensive than it really is) out and fab a real bracket to hold the filter. Still, the result was pretty sweet, im happy with the way it came out. Heres a few pics.
The plate itself
Block with the plate + filter. I know in that pic it looks like the oil line is going where the MM has to go, but theres enough line there to move it away so its not a problem.
Filter
Ignore that RTV.. My lower timing cover had a scratch in it there from where some jerk pried into it with a screw driver and messed up the sealing surface, theres a tiny oil leak there, its barely noticeable. Saw a little oil there after i had the engine on its side for a few hours. The RTV is a bandaid, i just dont feel like taking the valve cover, timing cover, and the pan of and redoing all that ish. Shouldnt have reused the same lower timing cover, oh well. It had the fresh seals and oil pump in it though.
Modified by 480sx at 10:34 PM 5/19/2008
Re: (480sx)
Engines in !! Smooth this time, no dammage to the paint or valve cover heh. WooT man its nice having a motor in your car.
So many delays.. Tommarow i will get everything buttoned up.
Clutch broke in perfectley. No heatspots, good suff.
D-Werks has my injectors, im hoping i will get a call tommarow to figure out whats going on with them.
So many delays.. Tommarow i will get everything buttoned up.
Clutch broke in perfectley. No heatspots, good suff.
D-Werks has my injectors, im hoping i will get a call tommarow to figure out whats going on with them.
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spooled240
- Posts: 6487
- Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:45 pm
- Car: kouki s14
Re: (spooled240)
You're a very determined individual, that's for sure. Hope you have better luck with this one.
Re: (2FourTee)
Thanks for the support guys.
Well the motors within an hour or two of being finished, if i had all the parts needed. Waiting on two pieces of silicone,(60 dollars, wtf is that..) and my injectors. Im realy hoping that i have a bad injector, im like 95 percent certain thats whats been plaguing my whole build. Used injectors from Ebay FTL.
Anyway, every things pretty buttoned up. Drivetrain is in, exhaust is in, coolant system is in, full and free of air. I picked up a trick to doing the Ka's cooling system. Its a PITA if you dont do it right. All you have to do to avoid getting air trapped in the block is poor reallllyyyy slowly. It takes me about 10 min to pour the coolant into the radiator with the bleeder open. You just wait till the water is flowing consistently out of the bleeder, cap it off, and you will never have any problems.
Heres a pic of the motor in the car.
Well the motors within an hour or two of being finished, if i had all the parts needed. Waiting on two pieces of silicone,(60 dollars, wtf is that..) and my injectors. Im realy hoping that i have a bad injector, im like 95 percent certain thats whats been plaguing my whole build. Used injectors from Ebay FTL.
Anyway, every things pretty buttoned up. Drivetrain is in, exhaust is in, coolant system is in, full and free of air. I picked up a trick to doing the Ka's cooling system. Its a PITA if you dont do it right. All you have to do to avoid getting air trapped in the block is poor reallllyyyy slowly. It takes me about 10 min to pour the coolant into the radiator with the bleeder open. You just wait till the water is flowing consistently out of the bleeder, cap it off, and you will never have any problems.
Heres a pic of the motor in the car.
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spooled240
- Posts: 6487
- Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:45 pm
- Car: kouki s14
Re: (480sx)
Well my injectors are fine. Kinda disappointed actually heh. That leaves the ECU as the only other thing that could be wrong, and i know how it got damaged. Never work with the engines wiring with the battery plugged in.. Also, ghetto rigging your injector plugs is a bad idea, i couldnt figure out what type of plugs fit the injectors and got impatient. I made the mistake last year, and damn if it didnt haunt me. So im hoping that its just the one injector driver thats fried, and not Enthalpy's daughter board. Should be able to get another ECU and install his stuff, and be good to go.
Man i hope someone can learn from my mistakes and not make the same ones themselves. Been a long and expensive road.
Man i hope someone can learn from my mistakes and not make the same ones themselves. Been a long and expensive road.
Re: (480sx)
Fan Fkin Tastic
The '100k mile motor pulled out of a running car' that i just installed has a dead cylinder. 30 compression. I bought this thing from a big Nico member, man this blows.
I could have felt this if i had turned the crank by hand. You can hear it when your turning the engine over. The RPMs go wayy up on that cylinders compression stroke. Another thing you guys can learn.. Spin a motor by hand a few times and make sure its got good compression on every cylinder before you buy a used engine.
The '100k mile motor pulled out of a running car' that i just installed has a dead cylinder. 30 compression. I bought this thing from a big Nico member, man this blows.
I could have felt this if i had turned the crank by hand. You can hear it when your turning the engine over. The RPMs go wayy up on that cylinders compression stroke. Another thing you guys can learn.. Spin a motor by hand a few times and make sure its got good compression on every cylinder before you buy a used engine.
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benspearl240sx
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2008 3:39 am
- Car: 1998 pearl 240sx
Re: (benspearl240sx)
Back from the dead.
Ka number three was an utter failure. I ripped that motor back out, and did an OEM rebuild on it. A DIY headjob, lapped the valves, replaced the valve seals, all that good stuff. Got the block hot tanked and i ball honed it myself. Spent 350 on this rebuild, wanted to do it as cheap as i could. My oil pump failed during a break in run. I even pulled the relief valve out and lubed it + checked it for damage, made sure it moved freely. However the valve still stuck open. I caught the low oil pressure before it seized but by that time the damage had already been done. Replaced the oil pump and the bearings to no avail, had no oil pressure because the crank was damaged and the main clearances were out of spec.
Long story short.. Ka 3 destroyed because of a failed oil pump. Lesson.. Spend the money on an oil pump if your going to bother doing a rebuild.
In a way, number 3 was a really great learning experience for me. I learned how to completely assemble and disassemble the whole motor, every component. I know this motor like the back of my hand now.
So now were onto Ka number 4. This Ka is going to be rocking a S258, this monster of a turbo.
This turbo will flow enough air for 600 hp at 60 lbs/min. It hit 7 psi on Ka number 3 at 3100 rpms, so its plenty responsive. I cant wait to crank this monster up..
Anyway, so this build i just decided to go all out. Snagged a great deal on ebay for some Crower H beam rods and JE pistons. Got the pistons coated by Swain Tech in NY. Heres a pic of the goods.
I bored my block .02 over, got it hot tanked, had my rings gaped, and my crank hot tanked + micro polished. If you are doing a rebuild, i would HIGHLY recommend getting your that done to your crank. My journals turned out with a mirror finish, even the machinist was surprised.
So i spent yesterday rebuilding the head. The intake valve seats were perfect so i just left them alone. The exhaust valve seats was gunked up, so i lapped those 8 valves lightly until it was metal on metal again. Hot tanked it, replaced the valve seals, and put it back together. The heads in great shape.
Today i built up the short block and got everything ready to finish building the motor tomorrow. Tomorrow night im going to drop it in. Saturday im going to start the N/A break in. Heres my short block as it sits in my shop now.
This motor is pretty built at this point. But i lucked out on some hard core parts for a great price. Heres what i have in it so far..
Ka number 4's head/crank - 200 (Mint sub 100k simi complete motor price) New Crower Rods + JE .02 over pistons - 600 (EBAY FTMFW! 1300 dollars worth of forged internals) Swain coating Ceramic tops and dry lubricant side skirts - 200 JE Pro Seal ring set - 100 HG - 40 Random gaskets/seals - 15 Bearings - 45 Hot tank - 95 Bore + hone - 120 Ring gap (ffs.. Hes got a old style hand crank gapper..) - 80 hot tank and micro polish the crank - 45 Oil pump assembly - 230 Gas to drive everywhere(DC --> NY for the motor, 4-5 trips to the machine shop, ect ect) to pick this crap up - 100 dollars ----------------------------
Right about 1900 bucks when its all said and done. But now iv got a fully built motor ready for 600 + hp.
The saga continues.
Modified by 480sx at 9:09 PM 10/2/2008
Ka number three was an utter failure. I ripped that motor back out, and did an OEM rebuild on it. A DIY headjob, lapped the valves, replaced the valve seals, all that good stuff. Got the block hot tanked and i ball honed it myself. Spent 350 on this rebuild, wanted to do it as cheap as i could. My oil pump failed during a break in run. I even pulled the relief valve out and lubed it + checked it for damage, made sure it moved freely. However the valve still stuck open. I caught the low oil pressure before it seized but by that time the damage had already been done. Replaced the oil pump and the bearings to no avail, had no oil pressure because the crank was damaged and the main clearances were out of spec.
Long story short.. Ka 3 destroyed because of a failed oil pump. Lesson.. Spend the money on an oil pump if your going to bother doing a rebuild.
In a way, number 3 was a really great learning experience for me. I learned how to completely assemble and disassemble the whole motor, every component. I know this motor like the back of my hand now.
So now were onto Ka number 4. This Ka is going to be rocking a S258, this monster of a turbo.
This turbo will flow enough air for 600 hp at 60 lbs/min. It hit 7 psi on Ka number 3 at 3100 rpms, so its plenty responsive. I cant wait to crank this monster up..
Anyway, so this build i just decided to go all out. Snagged a great deal on ebay for some Crower H beam rods and JE pistons. Got the pistons coated by Swain Tech in NY. Heres a pic of the goods.
I bored my block .02 over, got it hot tanked, had my rings gaped, and my crank hot tanked + micro polished. If you are doing a rebuild, i would HIGHLY recommend getting your that done to your crank. My journals turned out with a mirror finish, even the machinist was surprised.
So i spent yesterday rebuilding the head. The intake valve seats were perfect so i just left them alone. The exhaust valve seats was gunked up, so i lapped those 8 valves lightly until it was metal on metal again. Hot tanked it, replaced the valve seals, and put it back together. The heads in great shape.
Today i built up the short block and got everything ready to finish building the motor tomorrow. Tomorrow night im going to drop it in. Saturday im going to start the N/A break in. Heres my short block as it sits in my shop now.
This motor is pretty built at this point. But i lucked out on some hard core parts for a great price. Heres what i have in it so far..
Ka number 4's head/crank - 200 (Mint sub 100k simi complete motor price) New Crower Rods + JE .02 over pistons - 600 (EBAY FTMFW! 1300 dollars worth of forged internals) Swain coating Ceramic tops and dry lubricant side skirts - 200 JE Pro Seal ring set - 100 HG - 40 Random gaskets/seals - 15 Bearings - 45 Hot tank - 95 Bore + hone - 120 Ring gap (ffs.. Hes got a old style hand crank gapper..) - 80 hot tank and micro polish the crank - 45 Oil pump assembly - 230 Gas to drive everywhere(DC --> NY for the motor, 4-5 trips to the machine shop, ect ect) to pick this crap up - 100 dollars ----------------------------
Right about 1900 bucks when its all said and done. But now iv got a fully built motor ready for 600 + hp.
The saga continues.
Modified by 480sx at 9:09 PM 10/2/2008
Re: (480sx)
Motor number 4 lives! Started right up, held idle. Ran it for 10 min and shut it off. Everything checked out. Oil pressure is great, coolant is circulating, AFR's are good, fuel pressure is good, and no strange noises.
Going to let it sit until tomorrow to completely heat cycle everything. Then i should be able to take it for a drive.
Modified by 480sx at 1:58 PM 10/8/2008
Going to let it sit until tomorrow to completely heat cycle everything. Then i should be able to take it for a drive.
Modified by 480sx at 1:58 PM 10/8/2008
Re: (480sx)
reminds me of me I'm on de number 3, it is hurt from coupler eating contest..(and running out of oil for 3 miles before I realized) nice deals ,it looks like a stout build, if you have arp studs please save yourself and retorque them
I am in the plans for the spare block I picked up, but cannot decide between getting a new center housing or buying parts for my rebuild...
get that snail on and run break in boost 2~3 shouldnt hurt that monstar
I am in the plans for the spare block I picked up, but cannot decide between getting a new center housing or buying parts for my rebuild...
get that snail on and run break in boost 2~3 shouldnt hurt that monstar
Re: (neverlift)
Im just going to run it N/A for the first 1k or so, then crank up the boost. Gona start with a 14 psi wastegate spring and go up from there.
I would do 2-3 psi but my wastegate setup wont run that low for whatever reason. It might be because of my manifold, im not really sure but when i put a 3 psi wastegate spring in it would run 7-8 psi consistently. I mean my wastegate dump is set up well but idk really, could be a mix of things.
I would do 2-3 psi but my wastegate setup wont run that low for whatever reason. It might be because of my manifold, im not really sure but when i put a 3 psi wastegate spring in it would run 7-8 psi consistently. I mean my wastegate dump is set up well but idk really, could be a mix of things.