Hello all,

I found this site while extensively searching for some of the issues I am experiencing with our 2009 Rogue SL's A/C system. Here is where I am at. We've got 116,000 miles on it, keep it regularly maintenanced, and have had no major issues up until now (replaced the EVAP valve a few months ago because it was stuck closed)

-A/C quit working in our Rogue on Saturday. Drove to in-laws to use the pool, A/C was fine, car sat about an hour, drove back and about halfway through the trip, the A/C started blowing hot air.

*Compressor does not run when Max/AC mode is on (A/C light is on)
*Blowers are running fine.
*Pulled the connector off the compressor to test for voltage, no power when A/C light is turned on.
*Opened the IPDM Module and tested the A/C fuse and the supply from the battery, both rang out as working fine.

I think we have it narrowed down to either the A/C relay going bad or the Refrigerant pressure switch is bad.

My question is, how do we bypass the pressure switch to see if we can get the compressor running to determine if it is the switch or the relay? Looking at the schematic, those look to be data lines that the pressure switch just communicates back to the relay to kick compressor on or off. (I attached the schematic) I thought about buying a new valve, and and using nitrogen to introduce a pressure chance to get the compressor to kick on, but I'd rather not spend $70 on a part that I won't be able to return to the dealer. There are 3 prongs on the female end of the switch, and I don't want to jump the wrong to prongs and risk shorting it out. I just need to know which ones to attach the jumper to.

Also, if the compressor does not kick on with the bypass, we can basically pinpoint the relay as the issue, and from what I have found, you can't just replace the relay, you have to replace the whole board? Is that correct?

Any help would be great, thanks guys.

Just bumping this. Hoping someone can provide a bit of input.

Thanks guys.

This is from another forum,

In other cars , I just disconnected the pressure switch connector and shorted connections until I heard the a/c compressor clutch relay kick in and that fooled the system into operation and you then immediately start charging up the system...once you have some "freon' in the line the connector can go back on and you should be able to finish charging.

another forum

The low pressure sensor is in one of the a\c lines that goes to the evaporator inside the vehicle. It has a two wire connector. You would pull off the connector and stick a wire inside the connector shorting the two wires together. The low pressure switch is usually on the suction line somewhere between the compressor and where the lines go into the firewall.

HOWEVER. If your compressor is not coming on because the low pressure sensor is tripping off, then you can damage your compressor by jumping the sensor. If your vehicle is low on freon, your compressor will not receive enough lubricant that is carried along by the freon and compressor failure will surely result.

If you just want to test your clutch for a few seconds, it might not damage your compressor for a few seconds, but to jump it permanently surely will.

If you are low enough on freon to trip the low pressure, then your a\c won't work good enough to cool even if you jump it.

Of course if you jump the HIGH pressure switch, and your compressor has to much freon, then something could rupture, causing damage to your system, as well as possibly injuring somebody.

Of course you could be asking for a totally different reason that I am totally unaware of. But I just wanted to make sure to cover the bases.
Hope this helps.

and this one I have no idea about lol,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tvz4UrKl-Q

If your A/C was working perfectly and all of a sudden it went out. I would suggest looking at your condenser and see if there is a hole in it from a rock. You will see an oil stain or a small hole.

Thanks for the responses. We decided to try and replace the pressure sensor first. $67 part from the dealer, relatively easy to do, if that doesn't fix it, we will see about getting a new IPDM. I'll post an update once we've changed it out.

@dave The freon levels are normal, so if there was a hole in the condenser, it would have allowed the freon to leak out. So there is not a leak/damage anywhere to the system.

Have you checked if you have refrigerant in the system? Low pressure will keep the AC compressor from engaging, due to a low pressure switch that is located on the right side of the condensor on top of the receiver dryer.

Your AC does not have a relay, the compressor is controlled by the Body Control Module through the IPDM.

Here is a way to test the IPDM: Turn the ignition key to the on position, press your door switch 10 times, turn the ignition off then turn it back to the on position. If you do this right your horn will beep and the oil light will start flashing. The defroster ,headlights,cooling fans,wipers,and compressor clutch will cycle, so make sure that your hood is open so you can here the clicks of the compressor clutch. This is called the auto active test and this tests the main functions within the IPDM. If the compressor clutch clicks then its NOT the IPDM.

If this test passes (you hear the clutch click on and click off twice) then the next check is your pressure switch. Note that you cannot remove the switch before you have the remaining refrigerant removed. Or you can do what I did in this post (not recommended):

2010-rogue-ac-not-working-ambient-air-t ... 09235.html

Actually there is a relay but it is part of the IPDM and if you need to replace relay then you need to change the entire IPDM. Under the IPDM there is a 10 Amp fuse that can be replaced. I have a picture of it if you need it. Before you start replacing parts. Get a multi-meter and disconnect the clutch connector and check for 12 volts with engine running and A/C commanded on. If there is no voltage there, I would check the fuse first before replacing any parts. If you do have voltage, then it could be the clutch coil or compressor. You might think that there is freon in the system, just like disallow said, if you are low on freon and you are down to 1/2 pound of freon the system will not turn on because of the pressure switch. The correct method to see the freon charge is to recover it into a cylinder and weight it to see the charge. What you can do is get one of those quick charge bottles and add a little to see if the compressor turns on. If compressor turns on, then your system is low on charge. Just because you still have freon in system does not mean it is fully charged. In automotive systems, they use a known quantity weight for charging systems, The vehicle manufactures do not provide any data for super heat or super cool charging methods.

Dave, I'm not trying to be rude, but all of what you are asking me to do I have already done. I explained in the original post that I checked the compressor plug and we were getting no voltage to the compressor when the A/C light is turned on (w/engine running). We checked the fuse, it is not blown and we rang it out just to be sure. Even rang out both points across the fuse slot to make sure there was continuity.

The static pressure in the system was 120 lbs (car not running), obviously pressure was equalized because compressor wasn't running. I would think that should be more than enough in the system to prevent the pressure switch from inhibiting the compressor from starting. Either way, before we replace the sensor, we have to pull the charge from the system. We'll pull it and weigh it to see if indeed the charge was low or if it was normal, if it was low, we'll add the proper charge to the system and see if it works before pulling the sensor. I just don't forsee the charge being low with 120 lbs of static pressure.

Again, appreciate the feedback.

did you try the self diagnostic test to rule out an issue with the relay and IPDM?

Based on what you are saying, it does not sound like you are low on refrigerant. So if the IPDM/relays check out, its gotta be your refrigerant pressure switch.

I got mine off of ebay for about $25 canadian. (delivered to US address, I have someone that brings stuff over for me to Canada). I was a little hesitant to do this, but the part from the dealer is $160. And so far its working like a charm.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Pressure-Sw ... 06?vxp=mtr

Note that to change this switch, you have to evac the refrigerant.

If that is what your problem is...

t

Don't worry Brad, your not rude at all. We all all friends here trying to help each other out. I figured a way to test everything, the only thing you really need is a good scanner no a simple code reader. In the ECU live data stream for the ECU signal. Look for Air Cond Sig PID, this will show on if your switch on dash is turned on. Air Cond Relay PID will show on if the engine is running and the Air Cond Sig is also on. This will show that the IPDM / Relay is commanded on by the ECU. The AC press Sensor PID should be at 1.25V with the A/C off and engine off and Key on. The voltage range for the sensor is 1 to 4 volts. This will tell you if the pressure switch is bad. If you don't have a scanner that can display this data, you maybe able to backprobe the pressure switch and check for voltage from pins 1 and 2 and the connector on the switch. Hope this helps

why won't anyone listen to me!?!?!

Do the diag test on the IPDM and you don't have to do any checking for voltages or any of that other stuff. It will click if it works. It won't click if the signal is not getting through...

There! I said it!

Disallow, I'm listening.

Actually Brad needs to do both your test and mine. My test will show a bad A/C amp, ECU and a bad pressure switch. Your test will show if the relay/IPDM is bad.

Oh, Please don't listen to me. I know absolutely nothing about cars.

are you sure you tested the plug correctly? you had a good ground? you made good connection to the wire?

dissallow, I'll try that tomorrow and report back. The switch was only $67 through the dealer, which isn't too bad.

@dave, no worries, wasn't trying to get snarky. I don't have a scanner unfortunately, just a meter. So I won't be able to get the readouts you were talking about, but obviously, if the clutch engages with IPDM test, we can assume that the relay is working fine. Which should pinpoint the pressure switch as the issue. (more or less)

I do appreciate the back and forth, I'm just fed up with taking stuff to the garage/dealer and just getting destroyed by the the bills. I know that if I would take it in, basically tell them what I found, they'd still bill me as if I haven't told them anything trying to "diagnose" the problem.

@ImStricken, yes, we had a good ground, made a good connection.

did you try and feed 12+ to the clutch??

brad1787, did you ever resolve this?

Brad1787, what your final fix