Long story short, I bought a 2010 Rogue salvage title that has been rebuilt. I bought in February, with -20F ambient temps. So I did my best to determine if the AC was working, checked for pressure in the low pressure line, and felt that it was OK.

It was not.

Discovered that the compressor was completely seized, so yesterday I changed it out with a new unit from Rockauto, filled with oil, and recharged the R134a with 1.11lbs.

AC still not working. I did test the PCM, turn key off, turn key on, press door switch 10 times, turn key off, turn key on. And it went through the cycle of the headlights, wipers, fog lights, and the AC compressor clutch. Clutch definitely engaged, so compressor is working. YAY!

But still no AC. So I did some sleuthing around, and discovered that there is a plug dangling beside the horn in the grill, and based on experience this would be where the ambient air temp sensor would go.

I do not have Auto-AC or an external vehicle temp readout.

Is the Ambient Air Temperature sensor required to ensure the AC system will engage?

In any case, I've got a sensor on the way and will pick up and plug in after work to see if it gets me some AC!

Thoughts?

t

The ambient temp sensor is only for the dash board. It shows the ambient temp and has nothing to do with the A/C system. It is an option for higher model vehicles, I also got the connector with no sensor and I don't have any readouts in dash for OAT and my A/C works

If the clutch did engage, what are your gauge readings?

Are the low pressure lines cool?

Did you pressurize with nitrogen for a leak check and did you apply a full vacuum before servicing.

Does the compressor stay full on or does it cycle?

dave08902 wrote:The ambient temp sensor is only for the dash board. It shows the ambient temp and has nothing to do with the A/C system. It is an option for higher model vehicles, I also got the connector with no sensor and I don't have any readouts in dash for OAT and my A/C works

Thanks for the reply! It appears I wasted some good $$ on a sensor that I don't need. Unless I upgrade to the fancy mirror (I just might) in which case it isn't entirely wasted.

To answer your questions:

1. If the clutch did engage, what are your gauge readings? Clutch did not engage.

2. Are the low pressure lines cool? Hard to tell, but we did push the 1.1lbs of R134a in.

3. Did you pressurize with nitrogen for a leak check and did you apply a full vacuum before servicing. We pulled a vacuum on it for over 1/2 an hour. We did not pressurize with nitrogen. However, I am very certain that the system is not leaking.

4. Does the compressor stay full on or does it cycle?Compressor will not engage.

Did some more checking, and it appears that the Refrigerant Pressure Switch is damaged. I have ordered another one, and will change out. Hopefully that is what is keeping the compressor clutch from engaging.

I am troubled that I can't turn the compressor. Its brand new, and turned just fine before I installed it. As I mentioned above, we used the vacuum pump to push the right amount of R134a into the system, as we couldn't get the compressor to engage. When I checked my low side pressure a few days later, it was way in the red, over 140PSI. I bled off the pressure, but the only thing that came out of the port was air (no refrigerant). I found this to be kinda weird.

With regards to to compressor, I am theorizing that either of the following has occurred:

1. The pressure on the low and high side is far to high, and preventing me from turning the compressor by hand.

2. The Compressor is 'slugged' and full of oil, and can't turn.

3. There was contamination in the system, and the compressor is grenaded again. (dang)

What I plan to do is to do another evac on the system when I change the pressure switch. I will then check to see if the compressor is seized once it is evacced. If not seized, will refill and hopefully the compressor will engage which will allow me to fill the system properly.

If the compressor is seized, I guess I will have to get a new one (LT $200 rockauto) and I will also change the condensor (it was changed during the rebuild) along with the receiver dryer (again). Will also run a flush through the rest of the system.

Where is the expansion valve in this system? Under the dash?

Thoughts? Thanks for reading.

t

I am troubled that I can't turn the compressor. Its brand new, and turned just fine before I installed it. As I mentioned above, we used the vacuum pump to push the right amount of R134a into the system, as we couldn't get the compressor to engage. When I checked my low side pressure a few days later, it was way in the red, over 140PSI. I bled off the pressure, but the only thing that came out of the port was air (no refrigerant). I found this to be kinda weird.

The refrigerant is normally in a liquid state in the high side of the system. On the low side it is in a gas form. 140 PSI is normal for a system to be off and the temperature is warm outside.

How much oil did you put in compressor, you are suppose to measure out what came out and put in the same amount in the suction port on compressor.

Did you look at oil coming out of old compressor for metal?
To be honest, I don;t think your compressor was seized at all. There is no way to turn the compressor by hand with the system serviced. You are fighting 140 psi vapor in the system.
The correct way to see if a compressor is seized is when it is engaged the drive belt smokes or slips.
The low pressure switch will prevent the system from turning on and you are suppose to service the Freon with the system running and compressor engaged and not force it in with a vacuum pump
With regards to to compressor, I am theorizing that either of the following has occurred:

1. The pressure on the low and high side is far to high, and preventing me from turning the compressor by hand.
This is true

2. The Compressor is 'slugged' and full of oil, and can't turn.
Possible hydraulic lock

3. There was contamination in the system, and the compressor is grenaded again. (dang)
I don't think anything went bad with compressor

What I plan to do is to do another evac on the system when I change the pressure switch. I will then check to see if the compressor is seized once it is evacced. If not seized, will refill and hopefully the compressor will engage which will allow me to fill the system properly.

If the compressor is seized, I guess I will have to get a new one (LT $200 rockauto) and I will also change the condensor (it was changed during the rebuild) along with the receiver dryer (again). Will also run a flush through the rest of the system.

Where is the expansion valve in this system? Under the dash?
it is by the evaporator

Thoughts? Thanks for reading.

t

dave08902 wrote:The refrigerant is normally in a liquid state in the high side of the system. On the low side it is in a gas form. 140 PSI is normal for a system to be off and the temperature is warm outside.

So did I just blow out a bunch of refrigerant? It didn't smell like refrigerant, it smelled like air.

dave08902 wrote:How much oil did you put in compressor, you are suppose to measure out what came out and put in the same amount in the suction port on compressor.

5 oz, we measured with a syringe.

dave08902 wrote:Did you look at oil coming out of old compressor for metal?

I didn't find any oil in that compressor, removed the fill bolt and it was dry.

dave08902 wrote:To be honest, I don;t think your compressor was seized at all. There is no way to turn the compressor by hand with the system serviced. You are fighting 140 psi vapor in the system.
The correct way to see if a compressor is seized is when it is engaged the drive belt smokes or slips.

Well, you're making me feel better about it, but I've always been able to spin the inside of the compressor pulley by hand, or at least move it a little bit. If its totally stationary, its usually bad news.

dave08902 wrote:The low pressure switch will prevent the system from turning on and you are suppose to service the Freon with the system running and compressor engaged and not force it in with a vacuum pump

Agree, if I had to do it again, we wouldn't have done that.

Thanks for your input. Do you agree with the next planned course of action? Replace the refrigerant sensor, evac the system, and then refill, hopefully this time the compressor will cycle and allow the refrigerant in.

t

So did I just blow out a bunch of refrigerant? It didn't smell like refrigerant, it smelled like air.
I never smelled the Freon because it is toxic


5 oz, we measured with a syringe.
You way over serviced the compressor with oil. The entire system holds 5.07 ounces and most of the oil stays in the receiver dryer.

I didn't find any oil in that compressor, removed the fill bolt and it was dry.
According to the service manual it states to pour the oil in the suction port.


Well, you're making me feel better about it, but I've always been able to spin the inside of the compressor pulley by hand, or at least move it a little bit. If its totally stationary, its usually bad news.
The only time I would change a compressor is if it slips on the belt or the pressure readings show a bad compressor

This is what i would do, Take the compressor out and drain the excess oil out and see if your compressor turns. Too much oil in the system will do more damage than good. Then change pressure switch and put it on a vacuum for a 1 hour to dehydrate system. Then start filling the system on the low pressure side with the can upright only because we only service with vapor only. Then start the vehicle and put A/C on high and the compressor will cycle and it will draw in the Freon vapor. If you are using little cans, then warm the bottle to help the Freon vaporize.

By the way what model do you have. like SV, SL, 360, S. Also do you know where the previous damage was?

dave08902 wrote:

disallow wrote:So did I just blow out a bunch of refrigerant? It didn't smell like refrigerant, it smelled like air.

I never smelled the Freon because it is toxic

I get it, I wasn't sniffing it. When I pushed the schrader valve, nothing came out but air. My question was does refrigerant look like air (or smell? )

dave08902 wrote:

disallow wrote:5 oz, we measured with a syringe.

You way over serviced the compressor with oil. The entire system holds 5.07 ounces and most of the oil stays in the receiver dryer.

I tend to agree with you here. However, answering your question below, the vehicle was damaged front end. Got a new condensor, as well as receiver dryer. The refrigerant was already evacced. When they replaced the condensor and receiver/dryer, I don't think they put any oil into it. Also as I mentioned, the old compressor didn't have any oil it at all.

dave08902 wrote:

disallow wrote:I didn't find any oil in that compressor, removed the fill bolt and it was dry.

According to the service manual it states to pour the oil in the suction port.

Didn't find that. Do you think its a big deal?

dave08902 wrote:

disallow wrote:Well, you're making me feel better about it, but I've always been able to spin the inside of the compressor pulley by hand, or at least move it a little bit. If its totally stationary, its usually bad news.

The only time I would change a compressor is if it slips on the belt or the pressure readings show a bad compressor

I have the old compressor in the back of the rogue. It is locked solid. If the compressor had turned on, the belt would have gotten smoked.

dave08902 wrote:This is what i would do, Take the compressor out and drain the excess oil out and see if your compressor turns. Too much oil in the system will do more damage than good. Then change pressure switch and put it on a vacuum for a 1 hour to dehydrate system. Then start filling the system on the low pressure side with the can upright only because we only service with vapor only. Then start the vehicle and put A/C on high and the compressor will cycle and it will draw in the Freon vapor. If you are using little cans, then warm the bottle to help the Freon vaporize.

Thanks for that. I will do exactly that, except was planning to use a proper manifold gauge and automotive R134a fill instead of using cans. Or are you saying the method with cans on the low side has a higher chance of success?

dave08902 wrote:By the way what model do you have. like SV, SL, 360, S. Also do you know where the previous damage was?

Its a 2010 SL AWD. The damage, as I mentioned above, was all front end, mostly focused on the driver side. Definitely condensor, radiator, frame parts, bumper, grill, hood etc. Other than this AC issue, I am very happy with it. Got a great deal. Drives straight, have put over 10k miles on it and no other issues. Here is a pic:

I get it, I wasn't sniffing it. When I pushed the schrader valve, nothing came out but air. My question was does refrigerant look like air (or smell? )
When in vapor form it looks and acts like air

I tend to agree with you here. However, answering your question below, the vehicle was damaged front end. Got a new condensor, as well as receiver dryer. The refrigerant was already evacced. When they replaced the condenser and receiver/dryer, I don't think they put any oil into it. Also as I mentioned, the old compressor didn't have any oil it at all.
OK, then it is too much oil to put in the compressor alone, Afraid of hydraulic lock when starting compressor, don't know if it is a piston style or scroll. Normally I inject the oil during servicing.


According to the service manual it states to pour the oil in the suction port.
Didn't find that. Do you think its a big deal?
I don't know what port you port you are talking about.

Thanks for that. I will do exactly that, except was planning to use a proper manifold gauge and automotive R134a fill instead of using cans. Or are you saying the method with cans on the low side has a higher chance of success?

You never service a A/C system using liquid in automotive. Normally servicing using the liquid method is when your using blends of Freon on high tonnage units.
You should always service with a full set of gauges not those DIY bottles. Actually the DIY bottles are great because many people mess up their system and that is good business for me.
Get a full set of gauges and hook into the high and low sides of system with hoses. Use the yellow hose and draw down to vacuum with both high and low valves open. After vacuum you can use the 12 oz cans (with no sealant or oil). You may need a can adapter to fit the acme connector on gauge set. Close the high and low side valves. Hook up can or a 30 Lb bottle. Open bottle and crack yellow line at gauge set to bleed off any air. Then open low side valve and start car with A/C on and service to full using weight scale.

since you have the top of line vehicle, you should have a temp reading on dash, so you do need the ambient temp sensor.

The worse things for servicing A/C systems is using those cans with gauges on it and using Freon with sealant in it.

I will turn away any customer that has put sealant into their systems because the I will need to replace all the filters and flush the A/C recovery / recycler unit.

Fill port

Without taking it apart and seeing if it is part of the suction line, it is hard to tell. Follow the line from the evaporator, that should be the suction line.

Changed out the Pressure Switch today.

Unfortunately, there is NO VALVE in the port, which means I blew out all of the R134a in the system. Smells great.

However, once I got the new Switch installed, there was enough residual pressure to get the compressor to engage, and blow mildly cool air from the vents!

Thanks for the help.

So I guess you finally smelled the Freon. I forgot to tell you that there is no check valve there and you need to dump system first. What you can do is get one of those quick charge cans with a gauge on it. First place thermometer in the center vent (A thermometer that is fast acting) then Slowly add Freon in until the temp drop slows down and then stop filling. If you overfill the system it will go warm.

Your welcome and happy it finally worked.