94 Q45: Tension Rod/Arm Bushings

[Aus94Q45]

Bryq45 -- save yourself some trouble and have it professionally pressed. With a commercial press that bushing will come right out. When you heat and sledge-hammer in a vise where it will move around, you run some risk of bending or contorting the rod. Its worth the $40.

[shaginator]

Sopdadope -- yes, yeah, and yes... I got a killer deal from you. Which is why I snatched them up so quickly. Thanks again!

Mayhem -- only 100 miles, but no squeaks yet. Windows open, going over bumps at 25mph listening -- still quiet. 0 mph, me standing on the bumper and shifting -- still quiet. Curves at 60mph -- still quiet... so far.

I greased the bushing and inside of the tension rod with Mobil 1 synthetic grease (red stuff); also used Mobil 1 10w-30 to help with pressing-in the new ones. I forgot to add that I polished up the inside of the TR a bit with a Dremel tool and fine wire brush attachment.

I'm guessing that any potential squeaks would come from the point where the bushing touches the chassis frame. It seems to be the first place dirt will enter and cause the contact point to dry-out; however, it turns out that a long needle-type grease adaptor can be squeezed in-between that area for periodic maintenance. (On the OEMs, only the inner sleeve touches the frame).

Aus94Q45 makes a good point. I didn't heat/hammer the rod on a vise... too many areas to torque that way. I had a giant oak stump for that. Also, I was very careful about heating mostly the bushing ring, and only enough to "unfreeze" and bend it away from the TR. No damage, other than a few scratches. A dial caliper measurement before and after the removal confirmed that I didn't alter the shape of the TR.

It is indeed more work than just finding a shop that would press them for you. However, it's about twice as fun

[bryq45]

Glad to hear it worked out for you Shaginator! :-)

I just got my OEMs from Scottsdale. Im gonna attempt to attach a pic.

I do have a concern because there is an arrow and a small notch that protrudes from the rubber. Do I have to take that into consideration when pressing the bushing in to the tension rod?

Also, how expensive is a 'vise'. Would I be better off paying that one time fee for that tool, versus paying twenty bucks per press to my local guy?

Were my bushings installed INcorrectly the last time they were done? THe little arrow, and the prodruding rubber notch are pointing away from the tension rod, instead of toward it:

[bryq45]

THe Infiniti Service Manual says "Place arrow mark on bushing facing tension rod before installing bushing"

[bryq45]

My new bushings pressed in the RIGHT way with arrow facing tension rod:

[shaginator]

When I removed mine, the arrows were pointing the "wrong" way. Hm.

[bryq45]

UH OH,I hope we didn't put it in wrong!

Perhaps since it was put in exactly 180 degrees out of phase it was acceptable too.

[Mayhem_J30]

shag,do they make some adjustable arms so you can fix that camber problem?

you know there's also some adjustable tension rods out there if you're REALLY interested. Make some caster adjustements if you're a real suspension tuner.

[DAEDALUS]

180 degrees off is the absolute worst place for the bushing, if it's eccentric as stated.No factory adjustable uper links, but Stillen makes some at roughly double the cost. They have grease fittings and are adjustable, so hopefully they'll last at least 2x as long as the factory ones. 911/Q45 has some on his Q, as do other members I believe. You can get a bit more adjustment from the factory ones with shims or spacers.

[trun57]

Just replaced the tension rod bushings in my 91 Q. Bought them from Scottsdale for $15 each. They are OEM bushings. Took about 20 minutes per side, no sweat. I did not have a press so I went to the local import tool store (Harbor Freight) and bought the $39 mini log splitter. Turned the crosshead with the wedge upside down and it makes a dandy 6 ton press. Worked like a charm. Also replaced the steering rack boots. Next is the under plenum hose kit!..........

[ponytrekker]

Great idea, did you use pipe couplings as a jig. If you can provide details as I will be doing this next week and HarborFreight is not far away.

Thanks,Jay

[trun57]

I used a large socket for the drift and used 4 smaller, equal length sockets underneith around the edge of the tension rod. If you use the mini splitter, you dont need to use the extension bars, just the first set will do. Makes a nice benchtop press. When installing the new bushing, it may try to **** to one side. if so, just work the high side back in and once you get square, press away. Once the new bushings were in place, I had to use a bar between the wheel well and the tire to pull the wheel forward to get the bolt to line up again. Note that this should be done with weight on the wheels. When I removed the original bushings, the arrow was pointing twards the front of the vehicle. I installed the new ones the same way.

[bryq45]

Hey Trun,

Im considering doing my rack boots, How difficult was that job?

[trun57]

Rack boots are a cinch. Just jack up vehicle and place on jack stands, remove front wheels, use paint to mark the position of the tie rod, tie rod end and lock nut. Loosen lock nut one turn then turn tie rod until it separates from the outer tie rod end. Then remove the lock nut and count exactly how many turns it takes to remove it. Old boot can now be slid off and new one installed. put lock nut back in position, screw tie rod back into tierod end Stop with marks lined up and one turn left to contact nut, then tighten locknut....Probably best to get an alignment after that but it should be pretty close to where it was.

-TomR (trun57)

[Q45tech]

Pretty Close AIN'T GOOD ...........even a 1/2 turn on the nut is a dramatic TOE error! We mark everything and use measuring calipers and it's always wrong.

The CORRECT front toe is pretty small only 0.04 degrees per side total 0.08 degrees [the rear toe is 3 times this amount]

GOD you people scare me with your JACK STANDS.......I have seen enough mistakes with shop lifts.

[Mayhem_J30]

GOD you people scare me with your JACK STANDS.......I have seen enough mistakes with shop lifts.

You're getting spoiled Q45tech!! LOL. I wish I had the garage lifts like you get to use. Jack stands are scary, and if you think they're not you should think again. It's fear that keeps you safe and double checking. Be careful in the garage guys.:icesangel

[trun57]

I thought I was passing along a safety tip as some people don't bother with anything except maybe a piece of cinderblock but I guess I was wrong. Next time I'll leave details like that out. And of course, I did not advocate not getting an alignment, just that it would be close enough to get it to a shop ASAP.

What would you suggest using to support your Q when working in the home garage? I figured 2, 4 ton stands placed at the points suggested in the manual would be sufficient to support the front end. Enlighten us ignorant folk if you think differently!

[Chally]

Trun57It's OK! Don't get upset! Your info was correct, but when you have the luxury of hoists, car stands get left in the corner.

I use 4, 2 ton stands every day. Where there is no hoist, you must use proper stands, & at the worse, use blocks of Hard wood. NEVER & I repeat NEVER use any type of rock, brick cement, etc to prop the car, as they may crack & let the car fall.

Also never trust Hydraulics, as they can give way without warning. I've had 2 jacks fail now, & one minute they all look fine then suddenly the car is on the ground.

The only time I don't use car stands, is when I'm not getting under the car. eg changing a tire or brake pads. (is still a good idea to use a stand)

I have never had a car stand fail in the last 22 years of mechanics, but we have had technicians KILLED (in Australia) by failing car hoists! They're supposed to have Anti-Fall devices built in, but if you don't service the hoist properly, those safety devices can fail as well.

BTW, I also do the Rack Boots the same way as you, but I use Vernier Calipers to accurately measure the position of the tie rod. I then check the toe in with a tape, or adjuster rod as suggested by Nissan, & I find that no adjustment is necessary in most cases.

So ends the safety lesson.

[Aus94Q45]

Good thought on the jack stands. Small base can tip easily. Good to have back-ups. I have a 4 foot solid wood beam, about the thickness of a railroad tie, that I use to back up the stands and jack. If the jack fails and the stand tips, the car could not fall to the ground. Tire under the frame keeps it from faling all the way. You can never have too much back-up when breaking or or tightening bolts under the car. Crush injuries hurt! I crushed a finger in a non-car related accident. Painful! As Chally remarks, I too know of two deaths from cars falling on guys. Be very careful!

[shaginator]

If I'm successful with a DIY job, I'll try to post pictures later.

I realized that I never posted any pictures, so here's a couple.

The first is just one step of the weird removal technique I described earlier, and the second shot is the new poly bushings installed in the old tension rod:

[shaginator]

new poly bushing:

[SardarQ]

HI All,

I trying to remove the tension rod from the car (97 Q 103k). The center nut is torqued pretty tight. Forget removing the bushing - how did you guys get the tension rod out?

ThanksCJ

[Ryaske]

I need to do this for my 1995 J30. I assume its teh same procedure, parts as the Q? I will be calling my local dealer and scottsdale to compare prices.

[kelaog]

I removed the tension rod by placing the socked wrench so that I could hold it in one hand, and kick with my foot. It makes a foul grinding sound but then after that you can take it right off haha