93 nissan 240sx w/sr20det swap not starting

[Oniiscythe]

I have a 93 nissan 240sx with a sr20det motor that is no longer starting, i feel like i have went through everything i can possible think of to diagnose the issue but still nothing. i have checked the spark plugs, check for spark with a nod light, im getting fuel up to the rail and i've adjusted the fuel pressure from 43 psi to 60psi with no difference, tried starting fluid, changed my injectors,(seems like aren't firing still researching into it but i'm getting 12v to the injectors plugs. is there a way to check the cam angle sensor or crank sensor to see if that is the issue, or does anyone have an idea what it is. help please!

[gnubberlang]

Any info leading up to the issue might be helpful. If the starting fluid didn't work then I would assume your spark is either not happening or not at the right time.

[waxdnuggz]

Cam angle and crank angle will definitely not let the car start. And since starting fluid did nothing then your not getting spark. I feel its safe to assume this just happened one day when you woke up out of the blue? You didnt tinker with anything? Inline lights are good and bad at the same time. Just because you see it light doesnt mean you have sufficient spark. Ive seen a few times the light flashes saying I have spark but it wasnt hot enough spark to ignite the fuel under compression.

Sounds to me like cas or ignitor. Im not a sr guy by any means. But thats where I would start.

Cmon sr junkies chime on in.

[blkvrtswp]

Fresh swap or working one that just quit?

No fuel is just as bad as too much fuel. Check your oil dipstick for gas small - if present you are flooding the cyls so that is either bad spark or leaking o-ring or stuck injector.

To test injectors, pull the fuel rail with the injectors still in it out of the intake manifold. Leave all the hoses and wires connected. Turn the key on and verify you hear the fuel pump prime (and then shut off after 5 seconds). Look for leaks from injector O-rings - no fuel should be leaking out anywhere.

Now crank the ignition and you should see puffs of fuel coming out of the injectors. All of them at once. If you do, then the basics of the fuel system are working.

Spark is next, pull the coilpack and put a spare plug in it. Ground the threads to the engine head or whatnot. Crank the ignition (whoever is holding the coil pack wear rubber gloves or use a tool with rubber handles or prepare for a really big shock) A nice strong spark arcs bright and snaps loud. Weak spark is caused by poor grounds, damaged coil pack harness or bad coilpack. Ignitor is usually all or nothing.

So if the spark is good, it must be timing. This is where knowing if it is a fresh swap or already running driver comes in. For fresh swap I would google "setting SR20DET timing" and re-stab the CAS. Don't skip over any steps for any reason - if you do, I guarantee that will throw off everything after it.

If it was driving around fine, then try rotating the CAS and simply setting the timing. A little off on timing can amplify any other spark or fuel system weakness.

Good luck!

[waxdnuggz]

Fresh swap or working one that just quit?

No fuel is just as bad as too much fuel. Check your oil dipstick for gas small - if present you are flooding the cyls so that is either bad spark or leaking o-ring or stuck injector.

To test injectors, pull the fuel rail with the injectors still in it out of the intake manifold. Leave all the hoses and wires connected. Turn the key on and verify you hear the fuel pump prime (and then shut off after 5 seconds). Look for leaks from injector O-rings - no fuel should be leaking out anywhere.

Now crank the ignition and you should see puffs of fuel coming out of the injectors. All of them at once. If you do, then the basics of the fuel system are working.

Spark is next, pull the coilpack and put a spare plug in it. Ground the threads to the engine head or whatnot. Crank the ignition (whoever is holding the coil pack wear rubber gloves or use a tool with rubber handles or prepare for a really big shock) A nice strong spark arcs bright and snaps loud. Weak spark is caused by poor grounds, damaged coil pack harness or bad coilpack. Ignitor is usually all or nothing.

So if the spark is good, it must be timing. This is where knowing if it is a fresh swap or already running driver comes in. For fresh swap I would google "setting SR20DET timing" and re-stab the CAS. Don't skip over any steps for any reason - if you do, I guarantee that will throw off everything after it.

If it was driving around fine, then try rotating the CAS and simply setting the timing. A little off on timing can amplify any other spark or fuel system weakness.

Good luck!

Couldn't say it any better myself.

This is what you sign up with nicoclub for. People that know there s*** like this guy ^ i

[S-chassis life]

Any luck ????? If your getting Spark and fuel and everything then one thing that could be causing this issue is that your CAS might be 180 degrees off. it has to be on the compression side so the spark can match up with the pistons that are compressed. ill post up 2 links.... hopfully its this so you can get your car running.

heres one: http://www.frsport.com/How-To-Set-Crank ... _t_25.html

this one talks about CAS being 180 degrees off: timing-is-180-degrees-off-t421048.html