93 Infiniti J30 engine/running problems

[PMaietta08]

I own a 93 J30 and have been dealing with engine/running problems..
This is a list of problems and steps I have taken..
..Car was having problems with idle dropping dramatically after starting and either "catching" itself and idling back up, or dying and stalling out..still had electrical power and able to start back up although a struggle after stalling
..Car began to hesitate when pressing the accelerator after warm up..
..Hesitation began to get very bad,..engine would die down and almost stall when pressing the accelerator..when car stalled, still had electrical power, but pedal had to be floored for car to start again
..Car began to suddenly stall out in a different way..while driving, then slowing down, car would totally die...no engine "die down" it would just completely cut off..no electrical power whatsoever..no dash lights or ignition key reaction...after sitting and checking tightness of battery terminals, electrical power would come back on and car would start fine...
...One time after car stalled suddenly when pulling out, ( no engine die down ..just cut off and no elecrtical power ) I checked terminals again and noticed that there is a red plastic connector connected to the postitive battery cable terminal..it seemed loose and sild off its metal L shaped pin which is connectd to the positive battery cable terminal..( I dont know if its supposed to come off of this pin or if it is broken inside ) when I slid it back on, the electrical power came back on and was able to start the car..
I began to research all the problems I was having with the car and found out a few things..1) alot of people with aging J30s have experienced very similar problems..2) there are like a hundred things in these cars that could cause these problems but the most likely culprit is a faulty camshaft position sensor or dirty/faulty mass airflow sensor
...I pulled the ECU codes ( after being advised to..and taught how to ) and it read a code 13 for faulty coolant temperature sensor..
..I ordered a coolant temperature sensor and a camshaft position sensor..( these are normally between 250 and 350 dollars but I found one on line for 150 dollars )
..I replaced the temperature sensor and the camshaft position sensor..( I lined up the spindle the same way the old one was lined but the new one seemed to go on hard and tight ) ..I also cleaned the throttle bodies and mass airflow sensor ( using throttle body cleaner and mass airflow sensor cleaner ) and replaced the air filter
..the car would crank but would not fire and start..tried over and over again for two days
..I removed the new camshaft position sensor, which was tight and hard to get back out..then re-installed the old one, which slipped right on very easily..
..the car started right up..( I was now wondering if the reason I got the new camshaft position senor for only 150 dollars might be that it is faulty or defective and someone had already bought and returned it )
..now car starts fine, idles fine, revs fine when pressing the accelerator..I thought I had fixed it so I took it for a short spin..ran fine, accelerated with no problem or hesitiation..then just before pulling into our parking space..it suddelnly cut off completely..no electrical power..I pulled the little red connector at the positive battery cable terminal off its pin and put it back on..electrical power came back on and car started fine..
..I thought maybe it was just coming loose from the cars vibration so while the car was running I wiggled it and pulled it off its pin..but car kept running
..so for now I have fixed the problem ( at least it seems like it ) with eratic idling and hestitation/engine die down/stalling when pressing the accelorator..but I need to know if anyone can tell me why it might be suddenly cutting off with no electrical power after driving then slowing down, what the little red connector is, where it leads,and what it could have to do with this problem..could it be something to do with pressing the brakes? ..any suggestions would be apreciated..Thanks and sorry so long

[driverdriver]

Can you post a pic of the little red connector, please? So we can help you.

[PMaietta08]

I took the pics but I need to figure out how to post them on here..

[PMaietta08]

While I'm trying to figure this out..I can tell you that the connector comes right off the postitive battery poast and runs under the fuse box..Again I ran the car and wiggeld the wires and disconnected to connector but it didn't stall the car out..are there by any chance "breakers" inside the fuse box that can be tripped and reset?

[PMaietta08]

Ok I made a site just for these pics let me see if I ca post them..
( btw..I know there is battery corrosion on the battery body but the posts are clean )

http://members.webs.com/MembersB/editAp ... =125532528

http://members.webs.com/MembersB/editAp ... =125532682

http://members.webs.com/MembersB/editAp ... =125532850


http://members.webs.com/MembersB/editAp ... =125532925

ok these are the URLS to the pictures I'll try to post them as links

[PMaietta08]

Ok good they did post as links... and you dont have to clcik on all of them..just click on the first one and click next on the pics... ok there ya go..Thanks

[driverdriver]

Links above requires a username/password to view the the pictures.

Here is a link on how to post pics to the forum:

how-to-post-pictures-using-photobucket-t521110.html

Do you have a J30 FSM? If not here is where you can find one:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/

[PMaietta08]

[driverdriver]

Have you tested your fuses?

That harness does lead to the fuse box.

Also, is your battery secure with the t-clamp? Spirited driving or ambitous cornering which moves the battery around does cause drivability issues. I know from experience.

[PMaietta08]

No I havent tested any fuese but I examnied them for burn elements..the smaller ones that you can see into anyway..I'll have them tested and no I havent put the battery clamp back on yet but havent driven it much without it and I drive like a baby anyway..found that cars last longer that way

[GerryO]

That's a lot of corrosion and there are indications that your battery is leaking or being over-charged? Removing the battery, cleaning things up, neutralizing things with some baking soda solution, rinsing and drying them prior re-assembling may help. How old is the battery?

Coating clean battery terminals and cable ends (wire brushed inside and out) with WD40 works wonders.

I also like to insulate the metal top strap from making contact with the battery case and hopefully there's a plastic tray between your battery and the metal shelf that it's sitting on.

[PMaietta08]

Yes it is an old battery and if I get the car's problems fixed I'm going to replace it with a new one. That's why I havent put the top bracket back on yet.. The bottom tray is there...I cleaned the posts with a toothbrush and baking soda but didnt clean the corrosion off the battery..I never knew that about the WD40, I'll do that..

[PMaietta08]

Can you tell me what the red connector is called and where I would be able to order one?..or would I have to oreder the whole wire assembly?

[driverdriver]

Can you tell me what the red connector is called and where I would be able to order one?..or would I have to oreder the whole wire assembly?

Battery Cable Engine Harness

The old part code is 2407-10Y00 or 2407-10Y60. I have a suspicion the part was re-numbered recently and is known by another code.