92 KA24DET Still Alive after 4K, check it out guys

[nissan240boy]

Hey guys havent been on here much recently but wanted to show you how my car is coming along, I turboed it back in november and havent got to play with it much till january but all together its a 92 nissan 240sx with 204,000 miles on her, burns a quart of oil to two fill ups of gas, i beat the crap outta of it lol, put bout 4,000 miles on it since I turboed it and shes still holding up strong 9lbs of boost breaks both tires loose in first gear and second gear all the way till 6,000 rpm. It red llines at 7600 but if i hold the gas at the rev limiter for a couple seconds jumps to 8,000 rpm. Now i had problems with my turbo manifold studs backing out and stripping out so i fixed that good. I re tapped the manifold to 7/16 14 threads and got studs to match, drilled the turbo flange holes a little bigger to fit and used metal gaskets for turbo flange and downpipe flange. Now i have like no lag, spools up quick, yea ebay turbo lol ( ps yea the oil seals are starting to go im getting a fine lining of oil on the intake side and in my intercooler piping but whatever shes still running good) Now i used to have my egts under boost at like 1400 degrees max, now i adjusted my idle air valve out as far as it will go and the car idle flucuates like normall but it actually stays running now and my egts have gotten much lower it now runs like 1150 cruising and 1300 max under boost but usually dont see it much above 1200, so its an improvement, afr still good at 10.5 at 9 lbs under boost. Now i seem to get 35 mpg on the highway with it which is awesome but i get like 10 mpg when i beat on it. So yea heres a video of my idle issue, i still cant find whats causing it so yea. And heres the pics of my build, its a stock motor not rebuilt with 205k on it, so comment and let me know what you guys think, thanks

http://s847.photobucket.com/albums/ab33 ... 174229.mp4


new studs oh yea


i made this oil catch can not sure if ima use it or not I was bored and made it, does it look like itll work?









welded rear with my custom cover plate so nothing can come out and lock up my rear





act 350ft lb torque, 400hp clutch 6 puck sprung, very touchy clutch




I know it aint pretty but it stopped my oil leak, when i welded my oil bung on it warped the pan a little and it wouldnt seal right so this was all I could come up with and it works


before



after



megan racing pillow tension rods work great


my gauges, boost, afr, egts


under the hood after all done


rust holes




this was causing the timing chain rattle noise, i replaced it and now its quiet

I molded the rear bumper











I clearcoated the tail lights to look like new

There it is finished and ready for drifting at tracks

[S133P3R]

Did you paint it yourself? Looks good enough for pics.

[Razi]

Catch can should be something like this on the inside, you don't really need the filter bit.

[OutToWinPAHC]

The header wrap under the car is bad news.... And for a catch can I always suggest http://www.saikoumichi.com/

[nissan240boy]

Yes I did all the work myself, engine work, body work, paint work, it was painted in a barn lol, but got some bad runs but looks good alltogether, its a daily driver and my drift car so itll get banged up at the track more than likely so no need to have a perfect paint job, and as for the filter and catch can ill prolly just buy one, i been running without a catch can the last 4,000 miles and turbo is still working pretty good, theres a little oil on the intake side fine lining of oil all through intercooler pipes, do you need a catch can?

[alms24sebring]

First, that oil pan looked scary. A catch can will prevent oil from lining the pipes and intake valves. Its a good investment for a turbo. I am also surprised that the motor hasnt blown yet lol, but I dont see it lasting long. More power to you for pulling it off.

[FlipCoupe]

It red llines at 7600 but if i hold the gas at the rev limiter for a couple seconds jumps to 8,000 rpm.

[nissan240boy]

thanks lol, ive beat the crap out of it, red line it to 8,000 rpm all the time, egts are always around 1200 to 1400 max when im drifting under boost, its really been reliable for me, and yea ima get another cheap turbo and put a catch can on to save the new turbo, and the oil pan I know isnt professional but the pan warped a little and wont seal and I cleaned it good before sealing around it and it doesnt leak so I mean what ever works right, yea ive got 6 months outa the car so far, im hoping for another year or so while i save up and ima rebuild the engine and do it right but for now it does wat i want and gets me drifting so im happy with it, hey just curious since i turboed it it burns less oil than it did before it was turboed, y is that?

[Razi]

Yes I did all the work myself, engine work, body work, paint work, it was painted in a barn lol, but got some bad runs but looks good alltogether, its a daily driver and my drift car so itll get banged up at the track more than likely so no need to have a perfect paint job, and as for the filter and catch can ill prolly just buy one, i been running without a catch can the last 4,000 miles and turbo is still working pretty good, theres a little oil on the intake side fine lining of oil all through intercooler pipes, do you need a catch can?

Yes, get a catchcan unless you like having oil all inside your intake stuff.

No reason to rev a KA to 8,000, it makes no power up there.

[asoomal]

I'm hoping you have a Fully counterweight crank in there with a custom ATI damper if you're hitting 8000...if not, it's gonna blow.

[alms24sebring]

No reason to rev a KA to 8,000, it makes no power up there.

I know but itz madd jdm dorifto tyte y0.

Im surprised it hasnt blown yet to be honest on that beat motor.

[Razi]

And by looking at the quality of the build, I'm guessing he doesn't have a lot of extra money to blow, so it'd be a good idea not to pointlessly rev it that high.
Save wallets, be smart!

[Lobo240sx]

hey just curious since i turboed it it burns less oil than it did before it was turboed, y is that?

The turbo charged engine is making more efficient power with less load on it. So you don't have to stay on the gas longer to go faster. Your gas mileage increases and oil consumption decreases under normal driving conditions. Who does that with a turbo car though.

I'm hoping you have a Fully counterweight crank in there with a custom ATI damper if you're hitting 8000...if not, it's gonna blow.

I told somebody that too and 6k miles later KAboooom. He had another block so it wasn't really a big deal just saying..

[milto0n]

Edit: woops thought this was the for sale section

[nissan240boy]

Yes I did all the work myself, engine work, body work, paint work, it was painted in a barn lol, but got some bad runs but looks good alltogether, its a daily driver and my drift car so itll get banged up at the track more than likely so no need to have a perfect paint job, and as for the filter and catch can ill prolly just buy one, i been running without a catch can the last 4,000 miles and turbo is still working pretty good, theres a little oil on the intake side fine lining of oil all through intercooler pipes, do you need a catch can?

Yes, get a catchcan unless you like having oil all inside your intake stuff.

No reason to rev a KA to 8,000, it makes no power up there.

Ok catch can will be next purchase, and yea i dont rev it to 8,000 much, every now and then just to hit the rev limiter and when Im drifting in first gear sometimes it hits the rev limiter, yea my car builds boost around 3,000 rpm but u dont feel much pull till around 4,000 rpm then hold on lol she pulls hard from 4,000 to 6,000 then pulls a little to 6,500 then not much power after that, I usually shift at 3500 when driving normal and 6,000 when getting on the gas. As long as I dont lean out which my a/f ratio is perfect under boost every time and my wastegate always opens at 9 lbs and never see egts over 1390 degrees so as long as egts dont go past that I think my engine will hold up a long time.

[nissan240boy]

I'm hoping you have a Fully counterweight crank in there with a custom ATI damper if you're hitting 8000...if not, it's gonna blow.

nope, 100 percent stock engine and internals as far as i know 205,000 miles on engine, i dont hit 8,000 much and if i do its only for a second or two

[nissan240boy]

And by looking at the quality of the build, I'm guessing he doesn't have a lot of extra money to blow, so it'd be a good idea not to pointlessly rev it that high.
Save wallets, be smart!

yep I dont have money to waste so yea I dont rev it that hi often and from what u guys are saying ill try to keep it around 6,500 max to save the engine. In about a year or so the engine is getting pulled and rebuilt heres whats getting done or my plan at the moment what you think?

Forged pistons - $500
Forged rods maybe I was told stock rods are forged? new ones - $700
Garrett turbo t3/t4 - $800
700cc injectors - $400
AEM ecu - $1500
tune - $500
turbo XS bov - $150
new rod bearings - $50
new gaskets - $150
boost will be set somewhere between 18 and 25 psi
headgasket - $100
arp studs - $100
machine shop work plain head and block - $150
new timing chain kit - $150
new factory oil pump - $300
new afr oxygen sensor - $100
new air filter - $50

im not doing and headwork i think its good enough stock i dont feel like its worth $500 bucks for 30 hp i can make all the power i want by raising boost and a good tune

the entire build will cost around $6,000 probably so thats the plan for next year so im saving up till then and going drifting atleast once this year

[asoomal]

Head work > Boost.

I'd start off with an ATI damper and a crank scraper/windage tray.

[nissan240boy]

what is a damper and scraper/windage try, sorry im very car smart and i believe the damper is the same think as crank pulley or harmonic balancer but never heard of scraper/windage tray

[nissan240boy]

if anyone wants to see my car or hang out and talk bout 240's lol ill be going to the carlisle drift event/performance and style, ill prolly drift it at the event too

[Lobo240sx]

Head work > Boost.

[krash]

Head > Boobs.

wait wut?

Dude, I'm surprised that thing didn't explode as soon as you started the car! Also, What rods are you getting for $700? Pauter? BC? Eagle Rods will hold fine for a very decent amount of power, and they're like $350. Also, I'm pretty sure the stock rods are not forged. You can have them shotpeened to make them a little bit stronger, but you can also save up a little longer, get forged rods, and not worry about it.

[Chewbacca117]

Wow man. Your car is hanging in there! I plan to go ka-t one day. I would like to perfect my driving skill first. But damn son! Your pushing her to the limit. Please do the headwork when rebuilding it will bite you in the a** if you dont.

[h2v7]

that welded diff looks like a good job!

also when you cut out that rust in your trunk.

so you welded some metal in place then bondod it over?

[nissan240boy]

Head > Boobs.

wait wut?

Dude, I'm surprised that thing didn't explode as soon as you started the car! Also, What rods are you getting for $700? Pauter? BC? Eagle Rods will hold fine for a very decent amount of power, and they're like $350. Also, I'm pretty sure the stock rods are not forged. You can have them shotpeened to make them a little bit stronger, but you can also save up a little longer, get forged rods, and not worry about it.

ok cool, yea i was gonna go with eagle rods and cp pistons and rings, and let the crank stock

[nissan240boy]

Wow man. Your car is hanging in there! I plan to go ka-t one day. I would like to perfect my driving skill first. But damn son! Your pushing her to the limit. Please do the headwork when rebuilding it will bite you in the a** if you dont.

okay ill consider but its gonna cost atleast 1,000 bucks for crower cams and new valves and springs and machine work but ill consider it, also whats a good brand for a timing chain kit?

[nissan240boy]

that welded diff looks like a good job!

also when you cut out that rust in your trunk.

so you welded some metal in place then bondod it over?

thanks yea I weld them and then make a cover plate then sell the welded rears for $150, takes me about 4 hours cause I completly take the diff out of the rear, weld it then reinstall it.

next your question bout rust, to fix rust properly like I did u cut out to the edge of the rust so theres it no rust anymore, then make a piece of metal slightly bigger than the hole, place it on the underside of the hole then tak weld it in place and continue tac welding and jumping around till you get a weld all the way around, u dont wanna do one long beat cause ull warp the entire area so jump all around the edge tack welding till its welded in, next u must either use panel bonding adhesive around the weld to stop it from rusting or some rust inhibitor, after that sets, you must use fiberglass filler to make the low spot you made somewat even, once you sand in and its close to even with the trunk then you can use bodyfiller, nope if you use just bodyfiller it will bubble up and crack or sink, bodyfiller does this if it is applied more than 3/16 inch thick usually so fill your lowspots with fiberglass filler to avoid this problem but theres a limit to fiberglass filler as well, this proces is hard to explain, you kind of get a feel for it over time and just know what your doing but thats the best I can describe how to do rust repair, if you have any auto body questions just ask me and ill try to help you the best I can

[krash]

Please do the headwork when rebuilding it will bite you in the a** if you dont.

Head work > Boost.

I think when he said head work he meant porting and polishing, titanium valves, etc. That stuff really isn't necessary. What IS necessary is getting the head rebuilt. Change the valve seals, take it to a machine shop to get checked out, and make sure everything is in spec. That won't cost you more than like $200.

[badbob2121]

Wow this makes me want to build a motor with zero effort and see how long it lasts too!!

[asoomal]

Please do the headwork when rebuilding it will bite you in the a** if you dont.

Head work > Boost.

I think when he said head work he meant porting and polishing, titanium valves, etc. That stuff really isn't necessary. What IS necessary is getting the head rebuilt. Change the valve seals, take it to a machine shop to get checked out, and make sure everything is in spec. That won't cost you more than like $200.

Well, getting a full head work done will reduce the chances of detonation and make it run smoother. If all the combustion chamber are within the same spec, as in if they all are the same size, it will definitely run smoother. Not to mention it'll increase efficiency, more power with less boost, using less gas.

Also, all the cylinders will be producing pretty much the same amount of power, making it last longer and increasing power again.