91 300zx tt no start, has spark and fuel

[nissanfreak12]

Man I hope that's the case. I ordered one from czp cause Nissan wouldn't honor the recall and I'm gonna solder in the sub harness connectors and relocate it too. Don't know if I'll go under the nose piece or not, I don't like how the wires go right next to the radiator.

It will fit to under the nose piece, that is where I have mine right now. You will have to take it out of the wiring loom. Its really not too hard, just can be time consuming, especially with a TT. The turbo pipes get in the way at times.

[edj3663]

Still won't start.... Even with the new ptu. The only thing I can tell you guys now is smokes from the back of the engine and smells strong of gas. Foreign pos, should've kept my mustang.

[edj3663]

Ran the ecu for codes again just for s*** and giggles and it came up with 21 and 11. CAS and ignition coil circuit, but still when I spin my cas the injectors and plugs fire. So did it throw those just from me messing with it?

[t.mcginley.jr]

The CAS can still click when spinning it manually and not work right otherwise. That test works like 80% of the time but it isn't conclusive. You should see if anyone has a good used one you can get, maybe on here or tt.net classifieds, or on the Facebook z32 buy/sell groups.

[edj3663]

Alright I got a good cas and still same result. Could an idle sensor be making it do this? Or possibly some other little sensor? I'm open to suggestions lol

[nissanfreak12]

Check your timing again. It is very possible your belt jumped. This will cause a no start, but running, no power, etc.. You cant just rely on the lines on the belt or the marks lining up. If you read in the FSM you need to count the cogs, the marks are just reference points, they are not going to line up perfectly when all is said and done.

The other option is to check the injectors again. Yes, I know they ohm test and click, sometimes that does not mean anything, I had one go out, it clicked and tested good. I even had it flow tested, but for some reason it didn't work while in the engine. Replaced it with a new one, boom, car runs great. But you did say the plugs are wet? If the ALL are, then your only problem left to run is timing or ecu.

[edj3663]

Alright well I took off the timing belt cover on the drivers side and I counted 24 teeth. That's what the fsm said there should be. So should I try and find a good ecu?

[t.mcginley.jr]

You have to count the cogs between all the gears/idlers, especially the left exhaust cam gear to crank sprocket section

[nissanfreak12]

You need to count passenger exhaust cam to passenger intake cam, passenger intake cam to driver intake cam, driver intake cam to driver exhaust cam, driver exhaust cam to idler pulley. It is a very intensive, but it is extremely crucial to make sure all it correct. It is possible the tension pulley has given out and caused too much slack in the belt and made it slip a few teeth. This will cause a no start issue. It is pointless to chase a sensor issue until you check this, and just checking the driver side is not enough.

[edj3663]

I'll try and get on that today. To get to that bottom bolt on the passenger belt cover do you have to pull those hard coolant lines? It looks like it.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Not 100% sure if they do, but most likely. Even if you could get it around them, it would just be easier to remove them. You will have to take the crank pulley off to get the lower cover off though

[edj3663]

Oh ok, so I guess it would be best just to pull the radiator and go about how you would a timing belt change. I'll give that a go this week. Hopefully lol

[t.mcginley.jr]

Yeah I don't think its possible to get in there with the radiator in lol just no room

[nissanfreak12]

Yes, you can get in there with the radiator in. You do have to pull the hard lines, fan, crank pulley, pretty much the front of the engine. The hard lines block the passenger timing cover, and the crank pulley block the lower timing cover. Taking the radiator out does give you more room and since you have it pretty much apart, you might as well, but its not neccesary.

[edj3663]

Well I have a mishimoto radiator and an electric fan setup so not sure if I'll have room or not. I'll give it a go though. Those hard lines look like a pain, I can barely see the bolts holding them on lol

[nissanfreak12]

Yeah, the hard lines suck. Two of the top bolts are I think 6mm, I can't remember if the bottom bolt is also a 6, but after you get in there, replace the bypass hoses. I personally used silicon, will last a lot longer. If you decide to keep the car, might as well do the 120k service. Once you get the car going, you will not be disappointed.

[edj3663]

I was wanting to ask about that. Are the bypass hoses just what the coolant flows through when the thermostat isn't open or is it something special with this car?

[edj3663]

Hey guys I think I figured it out!! My driver side idler pulley is trashed. The bearings are all messed up and it's out of round. Here's the kit I'm lookin' at doin' right here. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart ... .125.79.45 what you guys think?

[nissanfreak12]

Hey guys I think I figured it out!! My driver side idler pulley is trashed. The bearings are all messed up and it's out of round. Here's the kit I'm lookin' at doin' right here. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart ... .125.79.45 what you guys think?

That is the one I put on my car, have no issues with it. I would spend the extra money and get the Ramey Studs. So it sounds like the T-belt jumped a few teeth because if the pulley. Glad you may have figured it out.

[Ziggy1621]

You don't have to have the studs if you torque them to spec

[t.mcginley.jr]

You don't have to have the studs if you torque them to spec

A number of people reported idler studs breaking/bending on higher mileage engines just from age + mechanical stress. The ramey Z ones are just added insurance I think

[nissanfreak12]

You don't have to have the studs if you torque them to spec

A number of people reported idler studs breaking/bending on higher mileage engines just from age + mechanical stress. The ramey Z ones are just added insurance I think

^^^^BOOM!!!^^^^^

Not necessary, but good insurance for how much work and time you put in these engines.

[edj3663]

Oh I ordered them. I've got high hp plans in the future and for 25 bucks more why not? Everything should be here this week. I hope this gets it!

[edj3663]

I haven't got my kit yet but I looked at it today and my crank sprocket is like 5 teeth off. So my question is where should I have the engine when I go to pull the belt? Should I leave the cam sprockets all in line or put the crank sprocket on tdc? I'm worried about valves contacting pistons but with the amount cranking on it I did trouble shooting I think I'll be ok. What I'm thinking is to leave the cams in time then turn the crank to get it all lined up before I put the new one on.

[nissanfreak12]

TDC on the #1 Cylinder. Put all the cam sprockets where the line meets with the dot, just for reference. Put the crank sprocket where the notch in the oil pump and the little dot on the sprocket match. Then open the FSM and follow it to a T, make sure you count the cogs like it says.

[t.mcginley.jr]

When your turning the cam gears and crank sprocket separately, as long as you don't push through any resistance you're fine. BUT if you feel any resistance while turning STOP and don't push through it. When I did mine, I could freely turn the crank by itself each way a good bit without hitting any resistance. Anyway, like nissanfreak said, line everything up with the dots on the backing plate, but the marks on the belt lining up with the marks on the gears is all that matters.

[edj3663]

Hey guys just received my kit. I won't be able to do it all in one sitting cause of work so my question is how long can I leave the auto tensioner with bolt in it? I'm thinking those seals are going to take me a bit.

[nissanfreak12]

You an leave the bolt in for as long as you need, doesn't effect anything while sitting.

[t.mcginley.jr]

You can leave the bolt in for however long you need to, just don't try tightening it. I'm assuming you mean the stopper bolt right?

[edj3663]

Yeah that's what meant. Sorry bout that. And good that's what I wanted to hear. Going to start on that today.