90 Maxima Engine Starts then stumble and dies ! HELP !

[balasang]

90 maxima auto 181,234 tho SE

I am a new member .hello i just bought a 90 Maxima SE and after a month it starts and hold on for 5 minutes then stumble then it dies.. (3 times happend) then i started the car after 2 weeks, it runs great then again it happend ..starts the engine then stumble then dies when i was driving..then i did open where the air filter is then it runs good and i even drove it .. after i came back then just deid on the middle of the road what could be the problem here .. thanks

ps. dont have money to do the computer code thingy .. they asking $100 bucks for it just to check .. appreciate it very well .. thanks
Modified by balasang at 9:02 PM 12/12/2007

[mtcookson]

Welcome to NICO!

Its actually very easy to check the codes on the computer. On these cars it is behind the dash and you can access it from the passenger's left kick panel. Remove that panel and you'll see the ECU. It will have a green and red LED's or just a single red (I believe) LED and have a screw next to it.

Turn the key to the on position then turn the screw on the ECU clockwise and the LED's will start to flash. Wait for it to flash 3 times then turn the screw back, counter clockwise. This will put it into diagnostics mode.

If it has one LED it will have fast flashes and slow flashes. Fast flashes are the 10's and slow are the 1's. So, if it flashes fast 3 times and slow 4 times that is code 34.

If it has two LED's one will flash for the 10's (green if I remember correctly) and the other will flash for the 1's. The first set of flashes are always the 10's and the next set the 1's.

If it flashes code 55 then it hasn't recorded any issues but with the problem you're having, you'll probably get a code.

I would check for vacuum leaks, make sure you injectors are firing properly (you can listen to each for even clicking or test their impedance, should be between 12 and 14 ohms if memory serves), make sure the distributor cap and rotor are in good shape, spark plugs, wires, may even check your fuel pressure may be a failing fuel pump, also the idle air control valve can cause.

Being that it seems somewhat random and that it dies completely (plus it sounds like a lean running situation since it stumbles) I would check the fuel system (injectors are a common issue, pump may be starting to go at that mileage).

Since you did just get it not long ago I would go through it completely with that list above. Ignition, fuel, air and fuel filter, vacuum hoses, etc.

First start with the ECU codes though, that will give us a good starting point.

Sorry if this post seems kind of jumbled together... I'm getting pretty tired and can't seem to keep my thoughts together.

[balasang]

thanks i will do that but for now do you think its best to get the parts from a wreck or pick up parts cuz we have lots of those here and i dont have money to buy those stuff ... i've check also that some say its MAF or O2 sensor just like what ived read on this stread.. but foremost i will do what you've said and go on to the next step.. thanks i will update you guys .

thanks

[mtcookson]

Some parts you can try used, like the MAF, but other common wear items just go ahead and get new (ignition components). For injectors, if they are bad, I'd go to Deatsch Werks and see if they have some injectors or if they can clean yours. If your injectors are "fried" a cleaning won't help so you would have to get replacements.

I don't think it would be the MAF or O2 sensors. If even either came unplugged, it wouldn't cause the car to die. If the MAF was bad/had a bad connection at the most it would run rich and you wouldn't be able to rev past 2,000 rpm. If it was the O2 sensor it would just run a little more rich than normal.

[balasang]

Ok now thanks i found the ECU and now it gives me the code # 12 and the next got me confused alot because it blinks 4 times then blinks 5 times ... if im correct code # 12 is 12 Air flow Meter/circuit open or shorted ? Right? ..what does it mean? === and second code 45? need help on this code. thanks

ps. also very interesting for me that i found out something.. after turning the nob from the ECU clockwise all the way to the end .. then when i start the engine it had a rough start and the engine check light on and blinking (went down to 500 rpm then the engine died ).. i turn the nob back counter clockwise at the middle of the high and low sign arrow ..then the engine runs back to the original rpm which is 850 rpm.. so whats next guys need help.

[Fezzik]

you are showing the same signs as my 93 max showedHad to get a new MAF (Mass air flow sensor). THis part is not cheap to replace though. COuple of hundred dollars.

[mtcookson]

Code 45 is an injector leak code (California ECU's only I believe).

As for code 12, the MAF, I'd first check the connector itself. Check for corrosion (terminals dirty or green). If there is, clean them the best you can and also use dielectric grease on them. If that doesn't help then there's a possibility the MAF could be on its way out. That does get to be pretty common due to the age/miles of the car.

Like said above, they aren't cheap if you go new but often times you can get a used one in good shape. I believe others have even repaired theirs before (other vehicle, but same idea). From what I've seen so far, the issue seems to often be a bad solder connection on the board inside the MAF.

As for the injector leak... if it is allowing fuel into the manifold without opening, that could definitely cause it to die due to running overly rich. If you have a multimeter, check the resistance of your injectors. I glanced through the FSM and I'm not sure if the code literally means the injector itself is allowing fuel through or if there is a general leak in one of the fuel lines. With the common injector issue... I'd say its probably one of the injectors. Resistance test will definitely tell you a lot, unless of course you can see fuel leaking on the engine somewhere.

[balasang]

Is there any a good reference info on how to rebuild the MAF? you could be right because if its reallly bad the MAF then if will die right but mine is just runs good after start ..so i will check the connectors .. Where is the MAF located at? i may know but i wanna make sure.. thanks

[mtcookson]

Its bolted to the air filter box. Even if the MAF completely dies, that car should still run and be limited to revving to 2,000 rpm. I'd say the dieing is part of the code 45 issue.

On repairing the MAF... this thread may be of help. Its about a guy repairing a Q45 MAF. zerothread?id=287269

[balasang]

Ok now my car is perfectly running very well .. and i've been driving it for almost 3 days now and it havent died to me yet (thank above) and i think it even runs awesome ... do you think the turning from the ECU nob did the works.. ? !! yehey! ....Got a questions can you tweak to a peak performance the 90 max ? I fall in love with my new (old) car now since when i bought it it got mags wheels 18" .. the previous owner was a drag racing dude.. have a machine shop that builds extreme engines for drag racing.. makes super big piston (cylinder heads )and well it makes me drull seeing those awesome drag engines .. keep you posted if something come up ..

thanks for the advice THANKS

[Dracolove]

Sounds like what happened to my 95 Maxima i would be driving and go to slow down and the car would just die and as soon as i got the MAF replaced it was fine. and to get the MAF from Nissan is like $560 and i had it replaced for $450 thats including labor

[mtcookson]

Ok now my car is perfectly running very well .. and i've been driving it for almost 3 days now and it havent died to me yet (thank above) and i think it even runs awesome ... do you think the turning from the ECU nob did the works.. ? !! yehey! ....Got a questions can you tweak to a peak performance the 90 max ? I fall in love with my new (old) car now since when i bought it it got mags wheels 18" .. the previous owner was a drag racing dude.. have a machine shop that builds extreme engines for drag racing.. makes super big piston (cylinder heads )and well it makes me drull seeing those awesome drag engines .. keep you posted if something come up ..

thanks for the advice THANKS

Glad to hear. That's definitely strange that it would all of a sudden do that. I'd be sure to look over the problems that caused the codes just so they don't come back down the road.

If you wanted to build up the Maxima to be fast, probably the best way would be to turbo charge it. The VG engines are incredibly stout in stock form. They're known to be able to put out upwards of 500 whp on the stock block, which is very impressive.

There's one big problem though... the transmission in our 3rd gen Maxima's are absolute junk. Stock, they won't hold the power the VG is able to produce at all. However... since that you have an auto transmission you're actually kind of lucky as those are much easier to build up to hold power. Most good transmission shops should be able to build that thing up to handle just about whatever you can throw at it. That would probably be the best route to take.

[balasang]

I am back again and this time weird things happen AGAIN!!!! my son and I got stuck on the middle of the road and the car just DIED AGAIN!! I started the car for like 20 times and still won't start, then I open the Air Filter to tell some air - in and then works like magic .. It runs perfect again..so my Question ARE? how can you pinpoint if the MAF is really the problem? Can I replace the corrector plug from the MAF? IF the MAF doesn't work then why I'm able to drive my car even though some people say you can't pass over 2000 rpm .. I did re check the ECU and still giving me the 12 code.. does it mean i really need to replace the MAF?

HELP thanks

[mtcookson]

One way to test the MAF would be a voltage check on wire "B". If you're looking at the harness directly, wire "B" should be the second from the left.

A-B-C-D-E-x

(x = no wire/connector)

With the key turned to the on position, with the engine off, wire "B" should be less than .5 volts. With the engine running, at idle and warm, the voltage should read about 1.0-1.3 volts.

If those don't check out you can try to clean the sensor itself. Electrical cleaner (spray) works pretty good on cleaning them. Just spray it down good and let it dry. If you take the screens off to spray it be sure not to touch the elements with the plastic straw. They can be easily damaged.

I'd also double check the wire terminal again. If you messed with the air box there could be a slight chance the terminal was moved a bit allowing it to connect again.

Its very, very strange for it to die though. Even if the MAF completely died the car should still run to allow you to get home. It should go into limp home mode, which causes the car to run rich and limits the engine to 2,000 RPM. If it is letting you go over 2,000 rpm it is probably getting a signal from the MAF but then when it dies puts code 12 into the ECU.

You can replace the connector to the MAF. Just be sure to solder the wires for the best connection. They are often sold as an MAF pig tail.