90 KA24E Engine Swap Starting Problem

[XxBLiNdxX]

I'm having a problem. After getting everything hooked up and checking all the connections I tried to start the car. After a couple of trys someone notice fuel spraying from the fuel injector. So i pulled it put and the o-ring was torn. So I replaced it with a new one and it no longer sprays. All the other o-rings on all the other injectors are fine.

Now back to the starting. It cranks but won't start. It seems like it wants to but just won't turn over. I've tried starting it without the fuel pump fuse in andthen tried after it, no go. I tried adjusting the disbuter but the marks don't line up on the pulley if the rotor is pointing at number 1 (right front tire)? Do I need to pull the oil pump to get it lined up correctly wi the TDC 0 degree and pointed at number one?Is there a easier way to do that? Please help. Need any more information?

Also my book shows one way of setting up the spark plug wires and the cap shows different. Which is right? I have tried both.

[NISTECH]

Give me an example of the difference between the book and your cap. Yes the crank and rotor should be on TDC when you line them up. The fact your book and your cap dont coincide I am left a bit curious as to what your looking at.

[XxBLiNdxX]

Here is a picture of the book. I think my cap is 4 where the 3 is, 3 where the 1 is, 1 where the 2 is, and 2 where the 4 is. Ahh hell let me see if I can get a good pictue of it in the dark.

[XxBLiNdxX]

and here is a picture of the cap. I want the rotor dead on number one correct on the cap? With it at TDC. Also I forgot to add in the last post. I'm using platinum two prong spark plugs compared to the regular pulgs. Would that matter?

I guess the book and cap sordof match but with a 90 degree rotation.

Ohh yeah.....I also don't get a clock or a cabin light when I put the key in. The clock illuminates but no numbers. The battery is fully charge since I charge it with my neighboors sears charger.....what a nice guy.

Last but not least, how far do I torque the belts? Do I just get them tell they are just snug, or should I use my torque wrench to a certain pound? I'm a noob as you could tell over these many weeks, but I'm learning a lot in the process.

[NISTECH]

It appears your distributor is rotated clockwise to far by the picture. But If I recall the picture in the book isnt right. Your cap looks more like where it is suppose to be. You need to double check to make sure your rotor points to 1 when the crank is on top dead center. If it doesnt your need to reclock the distributor and oil pump.

[NISTECH]

oh and remember the crank will come to TDC twice per distributors 1 rotation. So make sure cyl 1 is at TDC by looking at the cams or "feeling" for the compression stroke when rotating the crank.

[XxBLiNdxX]

Ok so I had the rotor on number one when I put it all together at TDC, but it was on the very far edge at top dead center, would that effect it? Also the plugs should coincide with the cap correct and down the engine blokck 1234.When I pull the oil pump will I lose a bunch of oil? Sorry for all the questions. I was just so happy when I got the last bolt on, and then it turned to a frown.

[NISTECH]

If your rotor is pointing to or near #1 and the crank is on TDC you should have enough rotor movemtent to line it up properly in the distributors normal adjustment range. You wouldnt need to reclock it if it has that ability.

[XxBLiNdxX]

OK I got it started. I think it was the rotor was off by a hair and I didn't have the ground wire on the rear of the head. Problems:

1) I have a knocking noise coming from the engine. It is similar to the one I had before on my other engine. I'm thinkinh it is the rocker arm shaft rocker arm follower brackets. The one on the engine that was sent to me had crack brackets from being torque down to hard. Do you think that would be my problem?

2) Instrument panel(rpm and temp, haven't tested speed), clock and stereo doesn't work. What could be wrong?

[NISTECH]

That could be your noise.

Have your checked all your fuses, under the hood and in the car?

[XxBLiNdxX]

No I have yet to check the fuses. I did try switching out the rocker arms but the noise is still there. What could it be? I guess I can see if my camera can record noise but I have no way of uploading it to the site.

[NISTECH]

Read this post and try some of the checks I mentioned in it.

zerothread?id=135993

[XxBLiNdxX]

Here is sound of the nosie. I can give you video too but I don't think it would matter. I tried doing the plug pull on each one and it didn't make a difference. I don't have money to buy a stethoscope right now. Hopefully ou can identify the sound and help me out.http://media.putfile.com/noise99

[NISTECH]

oh yea that sounds like valve train big time. It might be the lifters have air in them still. How long have you let it run in one shot? Since you didnt pull them out and bleed them it might take a little while for them to purge the air.

[XxBLiNdxX]

I've probably let it run 10 minutes total. I'm just woried about causing damage so I try not to run it long. How long should I let it run before I think I have a problem?

[NISTECH]

Some times it could take a good 20mins including a short mild drive to get them to quiet down. If the probem was damaging to the engine the damage has already been done.

[XxBLiNdxX]

New noise with the noise. Not sure what it is but it happens during the start up. The car now also stalls. It sounds like matal on metal. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH i'm seriouslly going to go crazy. What shoudl I do? What do you think it is? DO y ou want sound? Track down the guy who sold it to me, tie him up, and make him drink my used transmission fliud?

[XxBLiNdxX]

You think I shoudl run a compression test? I bought a $50 tester, why I don't know, but I'm not sure how to use i t. Do I just remove one spark plug try to start it and read the pressure? and repeat for each cylinder? I think the metal on metal noise was just a loose connector on the battery and seemed to stopped when I tightened it down.I would sell my car but I love it too much, we have been through a lot together and is my first love. =)

[NISTECH]

I seriously doubt the metal on metal noise was your battery. There are no moving parts there. Definitly do a copression test and see what you come up with. Remove ALL your spark plugs. disconnect all 4 injectors , hold your throttle wide open while cranking the engine. You wanna crank it 5 secs per cyl. Keep an eye on the gauge when you first start cranking. The first bump on the needle is an indication of how good the cyl is. But allow it to make its full compression during the 5 secs. The first bump should get you above 60 psi.

[XxBLiNdxX]

Compression results 157, 155, 153, 147. Seem like anything is wrong? I think the metal on metal was the start not getting the juice since the battery connection was loose. Maybe stuttering and not hitting right? It hasn't made that noise since I tighten down the connection. I'm going to take it for a test drive once I get my battery charged since I left the key in the on position overnight when I did the compression test.

As for the instrument panel, I have a blown 75 amp fuse. Which is the biggest fuse in the car. Would that be why it isn't working? I'm still trying to find one besides from nissan since it cost $25 from them.

[NISTECH]

Your readings are good for a cold engine. I think you are just experiancing dry lifter noise. After you drive it for 10 to 15mins it should subside. The 75 amp fuse is your main fuse. You had a major short at one point to take that out. As much as I hate to send you to this place , pepboys has a pretty good selection of factory main fuses. Give them a shot and see if you can match up that fuse. I however dont recommend you buy ANY mechanical parts from them.

[XxBLiNdxX]

Well after a a 20 minute drive I pull into my driveway and my engine caught on fire. =( Thanks nistech.......................just kidding. It sounds GREAT now. There is a little rattle while i'm guessing between 2k-3k rpm sinc emy gauges aren't working right now but it now sounds like the little engine taht could. I think I blew the fuse by not having the wire behind the valve cover not grounded. I guess we will see tomorrow and I'll let you know what happens. Wanna wait before I get it before I take "her" on a longer drive. All hail the King of Nissan's: NISTECH.

[NISTECH]

Ya had my there for a second dude. Pretty funny. Glad to hear shes clearin up. The ground wont cause a fuse to blow. A shorted power line or shorted internal components the only way a fuse will blow. Thats what blows fuses Grounded wires with out a load to use up the amperage in the wire.

[XxBLiNdxX]

I have a major short somewhere. After putting teh new fuse in and attaching the battery cable POP!. What do I do?

EDIT:Took it down to my poor mechanic that is getting kicked out and he thinks that it is my alternator. Since the fuse is for the alternator. I bought some fusible wire link and come terminals and I'm going to switch the alternator out from the one on my o ther engine. Do you think that would be the problem?
Modified by XxBLiNdxX at 1:45 PM 9/26/2005

[NISTECH]

It could be but you may have a major wire short somewhere. The approach I would take at this point is break out a wiring diagram and figure out what all comes off that fuse. Take my volt meter and set it to ohms scale and probe the circuit side of the fuse. I would then start unplugging things on the circuit untill I seen my reading go open circuit. IOr at least go up from 0 ohms resistance[ short circuit]

[XxBLiNdxX]

Wanna hear something really funny? The fuse is for the alternator, that one is for sure. HOw did I keep blowing it?The dumbass that I am hooked up the main battery negative cable to the battery link on the laternator instead of the intake manifold. So instead of the wire being groundedit was getting juice from both the battery and alternator. =) Newb mistake. Right now I have a fusable link wire with two terminals for the fuse right now. I think i t should hold for a while unless I'm mistaken.

One last problem, for now....moohahahahah.

Damn headlights. I turn them on and one goes down the the other one comes up. Tried to adjusted it manually but it corrects itself and puts in back up or down depending on the position of the otehr light. How do I fix this?

[NISTECH]

Set the switch in the down position. Then on the one that is up disconnect the arm on the motor shaft and reclock it so the light is in the down position. Then put the nut back on. Had that same problem with mine after fixing the front end. That took care of it.

[XxBLiNdxX]

I want to cry. I get in my car to go to school....to give it a real test drive and I get to the end of the block and =( she died on me. I thought I ran out of gas but not the case. Thought the battery was dead but the everything is still running but it just won't start. There is a buzzing noise coming from the engien bay seems like the alternator. Would t aht prevent the car from starting? I know I have it hooked up correctly: terminal with the cover on battery and the smaller terminal on E. I'm about to go get a shotgun and put my car out of her misery.

[NISTECH]

The biuzzing might be a relay due to low battery voltage. How many volts do you have on your battery terminals?

[XxBLiNdxX]

I'm taking it in to autozone to get it tested tomorrow. I'm also going to get my spare alternator tested to make sur ethat is working. If the battery has juice but not enough voltage will it just not start? I hope it's just a crappy battery, I get a$25 credit towards a new one.