90 KA24E Engine Swap Starting Problem

[XxBLiNdxX]

Here is a sound of the nosie it is making when I try to start it. I got the battery tested and it came up good. AHHHHHHHhttp://media.putfile.com/starting

[XxBLiNdxX]

I went and bought a multimeter today and not really sure what to do with it. I still can't get this SOB to start. Weird after I get everything fixed and starting it three times it just goes and dies on me and won't start. It cranks but just won't start. Having a really bad week. Miss school because car died and then I lose the keys to the persons car I was borrowing and had to call a Locksmith to geta new key made. What do I need to do to get this bastard running. I amde a sound sample of me attempting to start. If it sits for a while it seems like it wants to start on the first crank but then goes back to the sound sample. The battery is good, had it testing at Autozone and is fully charged. The fusible link wire hasn't burned since I put the ground in teh right location. Everything works but the fer won't start. I have tested for spark, getting spark. I smell fuel on all plugs, getting fuel. I oroiganlly thought I ran out of gas and put 4 galllons in and it won't start. I went from to and now please help

[NISTECH]

I couldnt play your sound bite this time, my computer programming is not Quicktime freindly. It actually shut down my browser and my desck top last night. had to use CTRL,ALT,Delete method to shut it down completely.

Try starting it again but hold your foot to the floor while cranking the hell out of it. It may be flooding out. Once it starts dont let the rpm hit redline ,let off.

[XxBLiNdxX]

What would cause my car to flood? I got it started again and it worked fine for a bit. Started it a coup[le of other times and let it idle for a while then it just stalled. It idles around 720 rpm. Now that it stalled it won't start again. What do I need to do to fix this?

Update: I think I found my problem but not sure how to fix it. The wire terminal on injector one is wacking out. If the key is in the on position and you push down on it a little bit or wiggle it, it makes a buzzing noise. I got it started again and if I idle it around 1700 it bogs down and drops 500 rpm, it is also doing this around 3000 rpm. At high rpm I also notice a small amount of smoke puffing out every once in a while. It must be flooding but how the heck do i fix it? =)
Modified by XxBLiNdxX at 3:21 PM 10/1/2005

[NISTECH]

Clean that connection both the injector terminals and the connector terminals in the harness connector.

[XxBLiNdxX]

I cleaned the crap out of the connectors and same problem. I can get it started and let it idle for hours but if I give it gas it starts to bog. 1500 rpm i get a 500 drop. 2500 rpm i get a 1500 drop and a shot right back up. 3500 it drops about 200. I replaced a couple of the o-rings also because there was fuel leaking. For some reason the new o-rings are tearing inside the fuel rail. How the freak do i fix this fing problem. Really getting to me. I'm afraid to drive it now because it stalls on me. I put fuel injector cleaner in it to maybe help it some? Help!!!!! I know, I must be getting pretty annoying.

[NISTECH]

I dont know if I mentioned this or not but check your coolant temp connection the same way you checked and cleaned your injector connector. It is the 2 wire red or yellow connector near where the radiator hose goes into the head.

[XxBLiNdxX]

YOu didn't really tell me how to check them, but I will see if I can find it. Weird thing is, afte rletting it run for a whle with fuel injector cleaner in their it quit stalling. I've driven it about 90 miles and it has only dropped a few times. The knocking noise has returned and I notice the smell of fuel when I stop and begin to accelarate again. The knocking noise seems to be going away again but it comes and goes.

[NISTECH]

If the coolant connector was corroded it would cause the engine to run rich and would be more noticable at idle. Just unplug it if its corroded clean it with some battery terminal cleaner and tigten the female terminals a bit for a better connection.

[XxBLiNdxX]

I've been drinking a little bit tonight since my freaking car stalled on my the second I turned the corner to get home and won't start up again. I just realized that I never tightened the EGR Valve tube leading into the exhaust manifold all the way since it was a ***** and would stay in. Woul dthis c aus ethe stalling problems I have been having? I still need to do the temp coolant connector cleaning thing if I cna find it. but i was wondering if that would caus eit also . It is in the exhaust but not tightened down.

[NISTECH]

Yea it could cause issues. Definitly get it tight. oh and judgeing by your post I would not recommend you do it tonight...lol

[XxBLiNdxX]

For some reason my first and second fuel injectors are spraying fuel from the mid sections of the body of the injector. Took it down to a mechanic and he thinks I need two new injectors. What do you think?

[NISTECH]

If the injectors are spraying fuel from anywhere other then the tip and in a consistant spray pattern then yes you need to replace it.

[XxBLiNdxX]

Should I replace teh fuel pressure regulator too? I'm just confused on what would cause them to blow like that. I'm getting four new ones tomorrow. Would a clean rail causing more presure on old injectors make them leak like hell?

[NISTECH]

Nah the regulator wouldnt effect the injectors, it would just increase the pressure slightly if it was bad.

[XxBLiNdxX]

I'm workoing on thsi right now so a speedy response would be great. I put four new injectors in with all new o-rings. The number one injector is spraying fuel from the rail just from turning the key into the on position and activating the fuel pump. The rest of them seem to be doing fine? Is this a electrical problem and how do I fix it? I cleaned the crap out of the connector. How do I test it with a voltage meter. I bought a $30 tester. My guess is that it isn't getting electrical current to the injector so it doesn't pulse and it cuasing it to spray out. I pulle dthe rail and it looks fine. The o-ring is still in perfect condition. HELP!!!!

[NISTECH]

If your saying it is spraying externally , as in on the manifold, you do not have it seated properly in the rail. This is one of those times when a picture is worth a 1000 words.

[XxBLiNdxX]

I k now a pictur ewould be great but mny batterys died the second i tried takiung a picture. I put everything back together and it quit spraying. It was spraying out of the Fuel rail side internally. Like fuel was trying to entee the injector but i t couldn't so it was forcing it past the o-ring insid ethe fuel rail and spraying out from there. I think I have a bad boot connector and it's not allwoing the injector to pulse but it seems to be doing ok now.

BUT

I still have that god forsaken knocking noise and a strange rattgle when accelerating fast or going up a steep hill. but he knocking noise is constant and only went away a couple if time for a bit. AHHHH..... i just wish my car would urn perfect just lik ethe dya it was born.

[XxBLiNdxX]

bump.... becaue i think you missed my post... or just plain tired of me.... i fthat's the case

I'm started to get a deep vibration along with everything else around 65 miles an hour. It's only when I accelerate at that speed. Very starange.

[NISTECH]

I am not sure what more your looking for. From what I gather the car is running ok now? You just have the nosies your dealing with? Try pulling plug wires one at a time while its running see if the knocking will go away with any one cyl.

The vibration may be drive shaft. gets brought up alot here.

[XxBLiNdxX]

I have tried doing the wire pull thing and it hasn't changed the knocking noise. I also have a rattling noise when I'm driving up hill or accelerating fast.

[NISTECH]

Is it more of a buzzing? possibly a heat sheild?

[XxBLiNdxX]

I don't have the heat shield on the exhaust manifold but I wll check the other ones. But there are three distinct noises.

1) Knocking noise that goes with the RPM regradless of speed.2) The rattling noise.... almost sounds like the chain but only happens when I ppush the gas down hard or travel up a steep hill3) The deep vibration( which I guess I will do search for drive shaft problems.)

[NISTECH]

knocking noise is engine mechanical then or one of the accesories. try taking all your belts off and start it to see if noise is still present. dont let it run for more then a couple mins or it could over heat due to lack of coolant circulation.

[FattyMcBaggins]

I know I'm not the mechanic here, but my exhaust manifold was missing some bolts, and so it made a rattle-like noise when I accelerated hard or went up hills. I thought it was the timing chain, and came to find that it was the sound of exhaust gasses squeezing out of the manifold because it wasn't held on all of the way. Check that out.

[NISTECH]

I know I'm not the mechanic here, but my exhaust manifold was missing some bolts, and so it made a rattle-like noise when I accelerated hard or went up hills. I thought it was the timing chain, and came to find that it was the sound of exhaust gasses squeezing out of the manifold because it wasn't held on all of the way. Check that out.

Seen this too. Happens alot on older pathfinders. Also a craked manifold will sound the same.

Nice user name ....lol

[XxBLiNdxX]

I do n't have my heat shield on and all the bolts are tightened to spec. Think I shoudl take it into a shop and see what they say then repair it myself?

[NISTECH]

yea you might want to since I am not sure what the knocking is. dont want to have you throw a rod through the side of the block.

[XxBLiNdxX]

I'll take it down to Nissan to get my Seat Belt Recall done and see what they say.