5 lug conversion...Is it worth it?

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
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redtop91
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A stock 240 can go pretty low but coilover clearance and whether or not you want to run overfenders is a general rule. I'm sure yokota will correct me if I'm wrong and give you more elaborate info. I tend to focus on performance rather than flushness


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adrianfromthecastle
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4 lug ftw!

old school companies like work and a few others still offer their wheels in 4 lug..yesss!

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redtop91
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Answer the question foolio. LOL.
iluvdrifting wrote:what do you think i should do go lower on the offset? i just picked that becuase i went on a wqheel calculater and typed in all the stock info and it gave me sum specs on what i can all put on. I dont know to much about wheel offset n stuff how do you figure out how low or high you can go

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jdotlim
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LOL

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iluvdrifting
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redtop91 wrote:Answer the question foolio. LOL.
lol sry, but I still don't understand what you mean by weak offset, is it weaker because its higher? but ne ways yes ur right that the rota torque's do come in 4 lug but i'm just thinking ahead for the future because i want to eventually get the big brake kit and want everything to bolt up not have to re drill rotors. A little off topic but would it be easier to just re drill them than just getting the five lug?

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redtop91
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Yeah. FWD and AWD favor higher offsets but RWD tends to favor low. Of course that is a viewpoint opinion, but it is the common viewpoint.

yokota180sx
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look, if you have access to a fender roller and dont mind running a slightly smaller tire for a strech look.

go look at this thread, figure out the look you like best and pic the offsethttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/265282

if you need to BUY wheels, talk to me, i can get whatever you need....as long as you actually have money

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iluvdrifting
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yea i think the offset i like has to be +15, I could get a hold of a fender roller because my friend does bodywork. But let me get everything straight , correct me if i'm wrong,

-Lower the wheel offset the more it will stick out of the fenderwell*the lower you go, depending if you have suspension or not, you will have to roll or pull the fenders otherwise you will

-More wheel width= can handle wider tires

-Wheel spacers- They make your wheel offset go lower because the move the wheel out further

So pretty much if I want to run a 15 offset i'll probably need to roll and pull the fenders because i'd wanna run 235/40 tires, working on getting k-sport coilovers, and i'd have to take consider of the clearance or the brakes if i plan to get z brakes, but you can add spacers to make it clear

.Nice thread though by the way lotta good stuff by the way....And yeah i'll hit you up when iI get the money and finalize what rims i'm gonna get

yokota180sx
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nodont get ksport

just dont do it

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iluvdrifting
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yokota180sx wrote:nodont get ksport

just dont do it
lol yea I want to get Tein but I might be able to pick up the k-sport half or even 3/4 the price because there used

yokota180sx
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stildon tbuy itroll stock befor eyou go ksport

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nismofly
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especially dont buy them if theyre used

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adrianfromthecastle
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iluvdrifting wrote:yea i think the offset i like has to be +15, I could get a hold of a fender roller because my friend does bodywork. But let me get everything straight , correct me if i'm wrong,

-Lower the wheel offset the more it will stick out of the fenderwell*the lower you go, depending if you have suspension or not, you will have to roll or pull the fenders otherwise you will

-More wheel width= can handle wider tires

-Wheel spacers- They make your wheel offset go lower because the move the wheel out further
wrong...

-the lower the wheel offset, the lighter the wheel weight.

-more wheel width = wider boost range (if turbo, if n/a higher rpm range)

-wheel spacers - better braking power

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adrianfromthecastle
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iluvdrifting wrote:yea i think the offset i like has to be +15, I could get a hold of a fender roller because my friend does bodywork. But let me get everything straight , correct me if i'm wrong,
iluvdrifting wrote:So pretty much if I want to run a 15 offset i'll probably need to roll and pull the fenders because i'd wanna run 235/40 tires, working on getting k-sport coilovers, and i'd have to take consider of the clearance or the brakes if i plan to get z brakes, but you can add spacers to make it clear

.Nice thread though by the way lotta good stuff by the way....And yeah i'll hit you up when iI get the money and finalize what rims i'm gonna get
btw... I hope you know that +15 offset isn't a universal type thing... +15 on a 7j is gonna look waay different than a +15 on a 9j...

+15 merely means the face of the wheel that touches that actual car hub is 15mm closer to the front of the wheel, facing outward...

yokota180sx
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but, on a serious note, and no care in design aside

5 lug wheels are remarkably cheaperyou can debate the styles, colors all you want

You showed me one company that makes badass offset 4 lugs. for 2300 bucks. I can show you 10 or 20 that can do it for 1600 for 3 piece forged. and even less for 1 piece forged, and 2 and 3 piece cast.

My second job is wheels man. this is what i do when im not working. I sell a **** ton of wheels. i know whats avaliable for hte s chassis market, and what is the best deals....

4 lug isnt financially responsible..

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homeslicej2
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Learning lots in this here thread

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iluvdrifting
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adrians_s13 wrote:
btw... I hope you know that +15 offset isn't a universal type thing... +15 on a 7j is gonna look waay different than a +15 on a 9j...

+15 merely means the face of the wheel that touches that actual car hub is 15mm closer to the front of the wheel, facing outward...
7j? 9j?

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spooled240
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7j=7 inches wide, 9j=9 inches wide and so on..don't know what the "j" stands for or how a positrac in a plymouth works, but it "just does" if you saw joe dirt lol

yokota180sx
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j stands for the shape of the bead i think

yokota180sx
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J, JJ, K, JK, B, P and D : Tyre bead profiles / rim contour designations. No, my keyboard letters weren't stuck down when I typed this. The letter that typically sits between the rim width and diameter figures stamped on the wheel, and indicates the physical shape of the wheel where the tyre bead meets it. In the cross-section on the left you can see the area highlighted in red.Like so many topics, the answer as to which letter represents which profile is a long and complicated one. Common wisdom has it that the letter represents the shape. ie. "J" means the bead profile is the shape of the letter "J". Not so, although "J" is the most common profile identifier. 4x4 vehicles often have "JJ" wheels. Jaguar vehicles (especially older ones) have "K" profile wheels. Some of the very old VW Beetles had "P" and "B" profile wheels.Anyway the reason it is an "awkward topic to find definitive data on" is very apparent if you've ever looked at Standards Manual of the European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation. It is extremely hard to follow! There are pages and pages (64 in total) on wheel contours and bead profiles alone, including dimensions for every type of wheel you can think of (and many you can't) with at least a dozen tabled dimensions for each. Casually looking through the manual is enough to send you to sleep. Looking at it with some concentration is enough to make your brain run out of your ears. To try to boil it all down for you, it seems that they divide up the rim into different sections and have various codes to describe the geometry of each area. For example, the "J" code makes up the "Rim Contour" and specifies rim contour dimensions in a single category of rims called "Code 10 to 26 on 5deg. Drop-Centre Rims". To give you some idea of just how complex / anal this process is, I've recreated one such diagram with Photoshop below to try to put you off the scent.


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iluvdrifting
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wow thats sum intense in depth info, nice job yakota. I tried looking for 7j and 9j and I couldn't find nething


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