4WAS Failure Statistics?

[M37SJoe]

Boy did Boeing ever screw the pooch on the MCAS System... For fun Google Busch Gardens, Mach Tower. This ride has a Safety PLC on it that was totally f'd up by the ride manufacturer. I worked with another Engineer at B.G. and not only did we fix the safety fault that occurred every ride cycle but increased ride up time 20%. Sadly, the ride inspectors approved it in it's original state as they had no idea what a Safety PLC was. This really wasn't very important. It just has us and our kids riding on it...

[VStar650CL]

This really wasn't very important. It just has us and our kids riding on it...

Didn't know about that one, but am I reading it right? Park management saying, "It wasn't closed for safety reasons"?

You have to wonder what they teach in engineering schools these days, because it can't possibly be common sense. Sad but true (sigh).

[M37SJoe]

It was the Italians...

[Pakitullanc]

It was the Italians...

I read the four pages and my head is spinning, lol.
12 M56s 100k miles
4was, IBA and lane dept light.
First came on seldom. I took the black cover off in the rear. Used brake fluid and electronic contact spray to clean and put the cover back on. Now as soon as the tires start rolling the 4was light comes on. After driving 1/2 mile the IBA and lane departure come on. The connector is connected.

Got an appointment with Infiniti dealership ($150 diagnostic fee) tomorrow to tell me the codes. Someone mentioned before I throw $, get the codes so I will know the issue.

Has my connector gone bad?
Also the driver side rear tire has a after market TPMS sensor, could that be causing it?

I would greatly appreciate your input.

[M37SJoe]

Save your $150.00 at the Dealer. While they will read your codes and give you a printout, they will not be able to determine if your connector is bad or it is something else. They will tell you they will replace the entire system for at least $6,500.00. Instead, go buy a Blue Tooth Code Reader for 99.00. You use your phone with a App. be sure to get one that reads ALL Infiniti (Nissan) Codes.

I don't think the TPMS System is tied into the AWS System. Not 100% sure though. Your problem sounds exactly like my problem - the connector. It is a $12.00 Trailer Connector from Auto Zone, Advance Auto, or your favorite Auto Parts Store. It takes a bit of courage to cut off a Body Wiring Harness Connector. I did it. I soldered and used Heat Shrink Tubing for Insulation. I then wrapped everything with electrical tape since it is exposed to the road and weather. Another Infiniti Dealers Parts Guy told me those connectors do go bad. I Tried cleaning mine and it helped - for a short time. You could also test the Sensor and Motor first if you are electrically inclined. Best of luck!

[Pakitullanc]

Save your $150.00 at the Dealer. While they will read your codes and give you a printout, they will not be able to determine if your connector is bad or it is something else. They will tell you they will replace the entire system for at least $6,500.00. Instead, go buy a Blue Tooth Code Reader for 99.00. You use your phone with a App. be sure to get one that reads ALL Infiniti (Nissan) Codes.

I don't think the TPMS System is tied into the AWS System. Not 100% sure though. Your problem sounds exactly like my problem - the connector. It is a $12.00 Trailer Connector from Auto Zone, Advance Auto, or your favorite Auto Parts Store. It takes a bit of courage to cut off a Body Wiring Harness Connector. I did it. I soldered and used Heat Shrink Tubing for Insulation. I then wrapped everything with electrical tape since it is exposed to the road and weather. Another Infiniti Dealers Parts Guy told me those connectors do go bad. I Tried cleaning mine and it helped - for a short time. You could also test the Sensor and Motor first if you are electrically inclined. Best of luck!

Joe, thank you so much for the reply. I saw the post about the trailer harness. Question, problem a stupid one, can I not buy just the connector from some where. Junkyard, Rock Auto.....
I found used power steering gear rack and pinion on Ebay for $100. Not sure if the connector is on it or not.

Can't figure out how to attach pic on a mobile phone

[Pakitullanc]

Ebay product ID number, 7027851436
Several on ebay

[Pakitullanc]

https://www.jbtools.com/autel-mx808-max ... BEEALw_wcB

[Pakitullanc]

https://www.auteleshop.com/wholesale/au ... SAEALw_wcB

[Pakitullanc]

On ebay
2011 2012 2013 INFINITI M37 M56 OEM CLOCK SPRING Steering ANGLE SENSOR

[M37SJoe]

Your Ebay post is for some sort of Front Steering Rack. The sellers description is wrong.

This is what you are looking for: https://www.ebay.com/itm/353539870814?_ ... %7Ciid%3A1

This is the Scanner I use: https://www.bluedriver.com/products/blu ... -scan-tool It has increased in price to $119.00.

I also researched buying the OEM Connector. The lowest price I found was around $100.00. You have to have a Removal Tool, Insertion Tool, Male / Female Housing, Male /Female Inserts, and a Crimping Tool. Or my simple to install solution for $12.00 plus a soldering iron, solder, heat shrink tubing, and tape. It is not a common part. I found some guy on the Internet who sold them. Sorry I don't recall who or have the link any longer.

Have you tested the Motor? It is 12 vdc.
Have you tested the Angle Sensor? You need 5 vdc and a Multimeter.
Have you downloaded the Shop Manual? It has pictures, procedures, and wiring diagrams.

If all of this is foreign to you (no offense intended), you might be able to get a buddy or independent mechanic to test your Motor, Angle Sensor, and if both are OK, change out the Connector.

Best of luck!

[Pakitullanc]

None taken man, it is foreign to me. I think I have a mechanic who I am going to show all your post and determine what he says. Also I am probably going to buy the mack dad scanner since I am in the future going to buy a FX50. So more problems in my future, lol.

[Pakitullanc]

What about this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-2012-2013 ... 632-2357-0

[M37SJoe]

That is for the Steering Wheel.

[Pakitullanc]

There is a guy in California that will rebuild the motor. I have not used him. He sounded legit. I think he quoted $250.00 plus shipping. Not cheap but alot better than $6500+!!!

Eurton Electric Co., Inc.
9920 Painter Ave
Whittier CA 90605
ISO 9001:2015

800-423-4789 (main)
562-946-0014 (fax)

Is this is the guy you where talking about who made the connectors as well.
Thx

[Pakitullanc]

Your Ebay post is for some sort of Front Steering Rack. The sellers description is wrong.

This is what you are looking for: https://www.ebay.com/itm/353539870814?_ ... %7Ciid%3A1

This is the Scanner I use: https://www.bluedriver.com/products/blu ... -scan-tool It has increased in price to $119.00.

I also researched buying the OEM Connector. The lowest price I found was around $100.00. You have to have a Removal Tool, Insertion Tool, Male / Female Housing, Male /Female Inserts, and a Crimping Tool. Or my simple to install solution for $12.00 plus a soldering iron, solder, heat shrink tubing, and tape. It is not a common part. I found some guy on the Internet who sold them. Sorry I don't recall who or have the link any longer.

Have you tested the Motor? It is 12 vdc.
Have you tested the Angle Sensor? You need 5 vdc and a Multimeter.
Have you downloaded the Shop Manual? It has pictures, procedures, and wiring diagrams.

If all of this is foreign to you (no offense intended), you might be able to get a buddy or independent mechanic to test your Motor, Angle Sensor, and if both are OK, change out the Connector.

Best of luck!

Where did you find the OEM connector for $100?

[M37SJoe]

I don't recall where I found the Connector and Tools. It wasn't the Motor Rebuild guy in Cali.

[Pakitullanc]

RAS.png

This cable came in today. Praying this is a quick fix.

[Pakitullanc]

I don't recall where I found the Connector and Tools. It wasn't the Motor Rebuild guy in Cali.

M37SJoe,

********UPDATE*********************
Replaced the cable now the light comes on as you start right away as if it is not connected. I uninstalled and reinstalled same result. Any words of wisdom. Tomorrow I may reinstall the old one and see if I get the same result or it may come on after I hit 20mph which it used too. Who knows just frustrating

[dmiles140]

Paki I had the same issue after I replaced the connector with the trailer connector. What codes are you getting?

[Pakitullanc]

Paki I had the same issue after I replaced the connector with the trailer connector. What codes are you getting?

On page 2 of this topic M37sJoe posted a picture of the OEM cable with yellow highlight. I found that same cable on ebay and replaced it. I don't have a code reader?

[dmiles140]

Paki I had the same issue after I replaced the connector with the trailer connector. What codes are you getting?

On page 2 of this topic M37sJoe posted a picture of the OEM cable with yellow highlight. I found that same cable on ebay and replaced it. I don't have a code reader?

I'm pretty sure I know why the light is coming on as soon as you turn the car on after replacing the rear angle sensor but I need to know what codes you get to confirm. If you look on like page 3 I replaced it and got codes I had never had and it was due to the rear angle sensor not being calibrated. I used a multimeter and the notes from M37SJoe to get the sensor in the correct position. I haven't had any issues with my 4WAS since.

[Pakitullanc]

Sensor Test Procedure.

Is this the test you where talking about

[dmiles140]

Sensor Test Procedure.

Is this the test you where talking about

Yes, while testing the wires, have the angle sensor lined up correctly on the actuator and slowly turn it clockwise I believe. As you're turning the angle sensor, the value will change on the multimeter and once you get the values of each wire within range, bolt it in place and check to see if the lights still on.

[Pakitullanc]

Is this the test you where talking about

Yes, while testing the wires, have the angle sensor lined up correctly on the actuator and slowly turn it clockwise I believe. As you're turning the angle sensor, the value will change on the multimeter and once you get the values of each wire within range, bolt it in place and check to see if the lights still on.

What wires do you put it on? Are those on that post?

[dmiles140]

Yes, while testing the wires, have the angle sensor lined up correctly on the actuator and slowly turn it clockwise I believe. As you're turning the angle sensor, the value will change on the multimeter and once you get the values of each wire within range, bolt it in place and check to see if the lights still on.

What wires do you put it on? Are those on that post?

On the rear angle sensor connect wire 1 and wire 4 and record value. Then, 1 and 2 and lastly 1 and 3. If you need more reference go back and look at page 2 and 3.

[Pakitullanc]

What wires do you put it on? Are those on that post?

On the rear angle sensor connect wire 1 and wire 4 and record value. Then, 1 and 2 and lastly 1 and 3. If you need more reference go back and look at page 2 and 3.



Few questions,

It appears this testing will probably be best done if the vehicle is on a lift
Two, this testing is out of my realm of understanding, honestly. What kind of shop or maybe dealership I should look for that can do this.
Thx

[Pakitullanc]

What wires do you put it on? Are those on that post?

On the rear angle sensor connect wire 1 and wire 4 and record value. Then, 1 and 2 and lastly 1 and 3. If you need more reference go back and look at page 2 and 3.



So I watched a YouTube video of an BMW with the Steering Angle Sensor throwing up lights in the instrument cluster. The guy hooked up a high end diagnostic tool and it fixed it. Would something like that work on our cars.

[M37SJoe]

The BMW Video must have been for a Calibration. You need to verify your Sensor is providing the correct signal on the Primary and Backup Signal Wires. The Signals must be within 1 volt of each other otherwise you get an error. You can purchase a replacement Sensor if you are 100% certain your Angle Sensor is bad. EBay has them. You buy a Rear Steering System from a M35 and get the Motor and the Sensor. The Plug on the Angle Sensor is different but you cut it off anyway. Are you using a Code Reader? What Codes are you getting?

[Pakitullanc]

The BMW Video must have been for a Calibration. You need to verify your Sensor is providing the correct signal on the Primary and Backup Signal Wires. The Signals must be within 1 volt of each other otherwise you get an error. You can purchase a replacement Sensor if you are 100% certain your Angle Sensor is bad. EBay has them. You buy a Rear Steering System from a M35 and get the Motor and the Sensor. The Plug on the Angle Sensor is different but you cut it off anyway. Are you using a Code Reader? What Codes are you getting?

C1138