4WAS Failure Statistics?

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M37SJoe wrote:
Sat Oct 12, 2019 4:20 pm
Update on my 2011 M37S 4WAS issue.

(1) Motor tested fine when removed from car.
(2) RR Angle Sensor does not show a resistance between pins per the Infiniti shop Manual. Applied 4.5 vdc (3 AA Batteries) to the +/- Pins and measured approximately 3 vdc when moving the Angle Sensor. This test proves it is good.
(3) Reinstalled Motor and Angle Sensor. Plugged in Angle Sensor but made a test cable with a momentary Push Button for the Motor. Applied 12 vdc to the test cable and the Rear Steering Rack moved. Reversed the power leads and moved the Rack in the opposite direction. This test proves the Motor and Mechanical Rack are working. Infiniti wanted to replace the Rack for a cool $6200.00.
(4) The Infiniti Shop Manual cannot be trusted to be correct.
(5) Tomorrow I will move to the Trunk and test the Wiring Harness from the Main Steering Computer to the Rear Steering Rack.

Inch by Inch... it's a cinch. I WILL find the real problem.
This is some good stuff. Keep the community posted! Infiniti is going to be pissed when people who they think they'll get $6k from start to fix their own cars for a fraction of that. Serves them right!


M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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Update on my 2011 M37S 4WAS issue.
(1) Accessed Main Steering Computer.
(2) Power and Ground Wiring Checks out good to the MSC.
(3) Rear Steering Motor Relay Tests Good.
(4) Power to Rear Steering Motor Relay tested Good as does all wiring (I tested)to the MSC.
(5) Applied +4.5 vdc to the RR Angle Sensor Pins on the Wiring Harness. Read voltage on the Harness Pins for the Angle Sensor.
(6) Applied +12 vdc to the Harness Pins for the Motor. Motor moved in both directions.
(7) Could not measure CanBus Signals with Harness plugged into the MSC. May try to repeat test with the Harness disconnected. I have a portable Oscilloscope.

Moving to Front Steering Computer next. This is based on the following codes:
C1930-01: 4 Wheel Active Steer front ECU : General Electrical Failure
C1138-00: 4 Wheel Active Steer (4WAS) circuit : No Sub Type Information
Front Steering Computer is located behind the Glove Box.

I am pleased to report the Infiniti Shop Manual Schematic and Plug Pinouts have been correct with everything I have tested so far. I will modify my previous statement and say that the Infiniti Repair Procedures in the Shop Manual may not be correct.

Inch by Inch... it's a cinch. I WILL find the real problem.

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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Update on my 2011 M37S 4WAS issue:

(1) Trunk Testing completed. I determined that all signals from the Rear Steering Rack are present at the Main Steering Computer.
(2) Removed Glove Box to access Front Steering Computer. Removed and reinserted all Connectors to the Front Steering Computer and other Connectors nearby.
(3) Drove the car and tested for codes. No codes cleared but had new CanBus Codes due to Glove Box being unplugged. Plugged in Glove Box Cable Harness and cleared CanBus Codes. The Trunk Open Enable Switch must be on CanBus.
(4) Inspected and Removed / Reinserted Connectors to the Front Steering Angle Sensor on the Steering Wheel Shaft.
(5) Test Drove Car. C1930 Code cleared! Received new ADAS Circuit Code. One Step Forward, One Step Backward.
(6) Partially removed Trunk Upper Finisher. Removed / Reinserted ADAS Computer Connector.
(7) When Reinserting all Connectors I inspected the Plug and Socket Pins and made sure all Wires to Pins were fully inserted.
(8) Test Drove Car. ALL Codes Cleared except C1138-01. I have surmised that the C1138 Code is a "General" or "Summary" Alarm that is present when there is a 4WAS problem. Code C1671 - 4WAS
Calibration not performed is also present. So we have a code (C1938) telling us that there is another Code (C1671) that is telling us to Calibrate the 4WAS System.
(9) I am going to unplug the 4WAS Main Computer and attempt to calibrate the Rear Steering Sensor using a +5vdc Regulated Power Supply and either an Oscilloscope or 2 MultiMeters. My hunch is this will fix the problem. I also strongly suspect the root cause problem was the Connector / Plug on the Front Steering Angle Sensor. I know the Rear Steering Angle Sensor needs to be calibrated since I removed it for a test. Why do I suspect the Front Angle Sensor? It is mounted to the Steering Wheel and ultimately the Front Wheels which encountered the wavy road first and were
subjected to the most force.
(10) There is one other Code (C1A04-00 - ABS/TCS/VDC Circuit) While the Infiniti Shop Manual instructs me to test and replace the ABS Actuator, I think the Code is present because of an out of
Calibration Angle Sensor. If the Code persists after the Angle Sensor Calibration, I will find the ABD Computer and Remove / Reinsert the Electrical Connector.
(11) The Calibration will hopefully occur on Wednesday - weather and obtaining a Regulated +5vdc Power Supply permitting.

Inch by Inch... it's a cinch. I WILL find the real problem.

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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Update on my 2011 M37S 4WAS issue:

(1) Regulated DC Power Supply arrives today.
(2) I will use it to calibrate the Rear Steering Angle Sensor just to be sure the Code C1671 for the Front Steering Angle Sensor isn't really for the Rear Steering.
(3) Next Tuesday I have an appointment at an independent shop that has a Consult III+ System to Calibrate the Front Angle Sensor - in case
I can't clear code C1671 after calibrating the Rear Steering Angle Sensor.
(4) I have searched high and low for an aftermarket device that reads all codes (I use Blue Driver) and allows calibration of the Steering Angle
Sensors (this is the hard part). Besides the Chinese Clone Units with a Windows XP CD, does anyone know of any "reasonably" priced devices
that can do Calibrations?

Thanks,

M37SJoe

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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Update on my 2011 M37S $WAS issue:

(1) I took my car to an independent shop who has the ability to calibrate the Front Steering Angle Sensor.
(2) They calibrated it and cleared all Codes. Drove the car 30 miles. No Codes.
(3) I am pleased to say the car is fixed! I have driven it an additional 45 minutes or about 25 miles.
(4) The real problem was the Front Steering Angle Sensor Connector. It must have been bumped loose. I disconnected it and reconnected it and I was able to clear Code C1930.

Infiniti Motors and my local Infiniti Dealer should be embarrassed that they wanted to first replace the ABS Actuator and then the Rear Steering Rack. Neither would have fixed the problem.

I have found a reasonably priced Code Reader that can Calibrate the Front Steering Angle Sensor (and a lot of other stuff). It is made by Autel and runs $350 or so.

Thanks,

Happy M37SJoe

bg383
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Joined: Mon Aug 05, 2019 8:47 pm
Car: 2011 M37s

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M37SJoe wrote:
Wed Oct 23, 2019 7:35 pm
Update on my 2011 M37S $WAS issue:

(1) I took my car to an independent shop who has the ability to calibrate the Front Steering Angle Sensor.
(2) They calibrated it and cleared all Codes. Drove the car 30 miles. No Codes.
(3) I am pleased to say the car is fixed! I have driven it an additional 45 minutes or about 25 miles.
(4) The real problem was the Front Steering Angle Sensor Connector. It must have been bumped loose. I disconnected it and reconnected it and I was able to clear Code C1930.

Infiniti Motors and my local Infiniti Dealer should be embarrassed that they wanted to first replace the ABS Actuator and then the Rear Steering Rack. Neither would have fixed the problem.

I have found a reasonably priced Code Reader that can Calibrate the Front Steering Angle Sensor (and a lot of other stuff). It is made by Autel and runs $350 or so.

Thanks,

Happy M37SJoe
Awesome JOB. shoot me an email at [email protected] for some questions

skdeezee214
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2019 5:16 pm
Car: 2011 M56 S

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I fixed my 4WAS system for $5 recently. 2011 M56 with 120K on it. The system is basically 3 parts, the bar or strut that attaches to the cross member and the wheels on each side, the actuator assembly which is the other two parts. I'm pretty savvy when it comes to this type of stuff from working with heave duty equipment and intervals of other stuff. So I was bewildered as to how this little motor with a bar would cost some much freaking money! There are older cars with the HICCAS system but Infiniti decided to run ALL of the safety driving features through this system, well not through it but by it. So one day if figured well it doesn't work anyway so I may as well get under here and jack around with it. So looking under the car, you'll see a metal gear housing attached to a black round actuator. The gear housing has grease that somehow, over time, matriculates over to the actuator that is basically a set of windings or electrical coils.
SIMPLE FIX

items needed
Philips screw driver, towel, toothbrush (or some type of small, soft brush), brake cleaner
1-put car on stands
2-disconnect battery
3-get under car and remove the two Philip screws on the black actuator (ONLY) not the 10mm or 12mm bolts on the silver metal housing.
4-remove black housing. Remember the housing is magnetic so it may be a little tough to pull off. If you see grease, remove it with the towel, and clean it with the brake cleaner. I spayed the brake cleaner a total of 3 different times after waiting 5 mins to let it dry.
5- reassemble
6-send me the $4,500.00 that you saved for my sharing LOL
OH and since you've read this far, here is a crappy YouTube video of me explaining it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZ9S2vVAV6s

skdeezee214
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2019 5:16 pm
Car: 2011 M56 S

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GasguzzlingV8
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Feb 27, 2020 12:34 pm
Car: M56

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If still having issues let me know. The fix is simple and a fraction of the cost. The infiniti certified technicians nor the infiniti engineers understand the problem or the fix. The dealer and Infiniti Corp. will suggest replacing the rear 4was computer as well as the main 4was computer as well as the HICAS actuator. None of those are the issue.

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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Gas Guzzlling V8,

What is your fix for the 4WAS Fault(s)?

GasguzzlingV8
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Feb 27, 2020 12:34 pm
Car: M56

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The issue is the motor which is mounted on the actuator/ HICAS. Within the motor the brushes on these particular years 2011-2013 were junk which is why virtually every unit fails even the warranty replacements ( should have been recalled). My history is... I have owned a 2007 M35S which had 4WAS, never had a issue. Owned a 2011 M37S also had 4WAS. This vehicle threw all the codes and had all the issues everyone and every technician has described. My best friend is a Infiniti Certified technician, we worked to narrow down the issue by switching out known to be good main computers, rear 4was modules, but never could get a HICAS for those years. New was 5K, used $1500. We continually tested voltages, function of the sensors, relays, modules etc and multiple reprogramming Of every system. within the Consult software used by Infiniti technicians we found a test for the motor voltage and a range. When testing my motor ( removed from the HICAS it functioned however when on the unit it was a tenth out of spec voltage. The M37 was totaled by my daughter. I replaced it with a 2013 M56 with every option available and the 4was light, traction control/ antilock breaking, lane departure etc not functioning. Knowing the motor was the issue purchased a HICAS used from a 2007 M35S ( part number of the motor different but looked identical and only cost $179.00 for the actuator). Removed motor from my 2013, replaced it with the 2007 took all of 5 min..... with no re programming all issues resolved. I have been driving the car for 12k and everything works perfectly. We did tear down the motor off the 2013 to find the issue was the brushes were severely warn. I need to purchase some new brushes to install and test. From what I can find is the motor used on most Infiniti and Nissan look to be the same motor. KYB, who manufactures the HICAS would not sell me a motor nor would they discuss the issue. There are virtually not reported issues with the 4WAS from the 1990’s to the 2010 models nor the 2014 and newer.

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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This is excellent information. So far, my Motor seems to be working fine. As luck would have it, I had previously purchased a M35 HICAS Motor and have it when (or if) my M37S HICA Motor fails.

Thanks for contributing to the knowledge base on this problem.

EbonyM37
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2020 1:20 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 Sport

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Gas Guzzling V8,

How did you remove the motor of your 4WAS unit?

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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It is a 2 minute job. Two Bolts and an electrical connector. Then gently wiggle it (do not hit it with a hammer) and it will come off.

But I have been meaning to post a final update on this issue.

I don't think my Motor was bad. I don't think my Real Angle Sensor was bad. I think he real problem was the Connector between the Wiring Harness and the Rear Angle Sensor. I replaced it with a
$12.00 4 pin Connector used for trailer wiring and I have had no issues since. I have over 1,500 miles on the car since the repair. An Infiniti Parts guy told me that this type of connector has issues and is used throughout the car. Food for thought...

EbonyM37
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2020 1:20 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 Sport

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Oh wow. I hope that’s not the problem I run into. I tried cleaning out the motor housing earlier this year. There was quite a bit of grease inside. That seemed to fix my issue for a whole month but it came back. After going to the dealer, they were able to isolate the circuits and came back to the rear actuator being bad. I prefer to not spend $7,300 out of warranty so I went ahead and purchased a 2007 M45 RAS unit for $170. Going to try to replace the motor to see if that solves the issue.

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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Your problem sounds just like mine. I would suggest you replace the Motor first as it is easy to do. If that does not fix it, then replace the Rear Angle Sensor (6 pin connector) when means splicing or adding a 4 pin connector. The Rear Angle Sensor only uses 4 pins and the M45 RAS and M37 RAS are identical. Keep me posted.

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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Your problem sounds just like mine. I would suggest you replace the Motor first as it is easy to do. If that does not fix it, then replace the Rear Angle Sensor (6 pin connector) when means splicing or adding a 4 pin connector. The Rear Angle Sensor only uses 4 pins and the M45 RAS and M37 RAS are identical. Keep me posted.

EbonyM37
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2020 1:20 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 Sport

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Will do! I’m not sure how to splice connectors, but I have a friend that can help if that’s what it comes to. The RAS unit should arrive next week. I’ll give an update after a few hundred miles or so.

EbonyM37
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2020 1:20 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 Sport

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M37SJoe wrote:
Sun Jun 21, 2020 5:39 am
Your problem sounds just like mine. I would suggest you replace the Motor first as it is easy to do. If that does not fix it, then replace the Rear Angle Sensor (6 pin connector) when means splicing or adding a 4 pin connector. The Rear Angle Sensor only uses 4 pins and the M45 RAS and M37 RAS are identical. Keep me posted.
The 2006 M45 rear steering rack arrived on Tuesday. I replaced my M37 4WAS rear motor with the one from the M45 within 5 minutes. Tbh I was quite surprised yet relieved that the electric motors are the same. It was such an easy swap. After two days of commuting to work and a full day of running errands, I am happy to say that I no longer have issues with my 4WAS system. I will still continue to keep an eye on everything since my original attempt to repair the issue only lasted a month. I do have confidence that this repair will last much longer though.

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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There is a guy in California that will rebuild the motor. I have not used him. He sounded legit. I think he quoted $250.00 plus shipping. Not cheap but alot better than $6500+!!!

Eurton Electric Co., Inc.
9920 Painter Ave
Whittier CA 90605
ISO 9001:2015

800-423-4789 (main)
562-946-0014 (fax)

EbonyM37
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2020 1:20 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 Sport

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I might have to do that in the future if this ever malfunctions again. Thank you for his contact info!

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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This is why these kind of groups exist. To share information. You are most welcome. I have gained knowledge here myself.

egor4ik1989
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2021 9:06 pm
Car: 2012 Infinti M37S

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M37SJoe wrote:
Sat Jun 20, 2020 5:14 am
It is a 2 minute job. Two Bolts and an electrical connector. Then gently wiggle it (do not hit it with a hammer) and it will come off.

But I have been meaning to post a final update on this issue.

I don't think my Motor was bad. I don't think my Real Angle Sensor was bad. I think he real problem was the Connector between the Wiring Harness and the Rear Angle Sensor. I replaced it with a
$12.00 4 pin Connector used for trailer wiring and I have had no issues since. I have over 1,500 miles on the car since the repair. An Infiniti Parts guy told me that this type of connector has issues and is used throughout the car. Food for thought...
Did you have to calibrate sensor after replacing connector and taking sensor off?

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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No. It simply bolts into place. I would test the sensor first. It is a 5 vdc powered sensor. The root cause problem with my 4WAS System was not the motor, not the sensor, but the connector from the 4WAS System to the body wiring harness. I replaced it with a 4 pin "trailer" connector. I soldered the wires to the new connector and used heat shrink tubing and then electrical tape to protect everything since it is exposed to the elements.

dmiles140
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2020 8:25 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37S

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@M37SJoe Can you show me what the rear angle sensor connector looks like?

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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RAS.png

dmiles140
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2020 8:25 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37S

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M37SJoe wrote:
Fri Jun 04, 2021 4:55 am
RAS.png
Ok that's what I thought it was. So your problem was the connector from the wire harness was bad?

My 4was light comes on randomly and will go off once the car is turned off. Sometimes it won't even come back on for a week to a month. The dealership said it was the rear actuator and therefore the whole rack needed to be replaced. My warranty company is trying to say they won't cover it because it's the rear rack but the contract states rack and pinion are covered.

I'm pretty sure my motor on the actuator is good. I get 3 codes, c1686, c1138, and c1918. The c1918 is rear steering angle sensor: general electrical failure. Did you have any of these codes?

M37SJoe
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:45 am
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37 S

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Dmiles,

The Dealer just does what Infiniti says to do. I even paid them to troubleshoot my car and all they could say was "replace the entire rack". That cost me $300.00 but I got a free car wash! Initially, I cleaned the contacts on the Connector and it helped for about 6 months. When the problem returned, I decided to cut the connector and solder in the 4 pin Trailer Connector. Many miles and much time has passed since then with ZERO problems. I got all of the same codes you got. I did some research and you can buy the original connector. All in it was almost $100.00. So that's when I decided the old fashioned trailer connector would be worth a try. It is a little scary to but the car's wiring harness but be brave and do it. I replaced the Motor and Sensor first using used M35 Parts but the real problem for me was the connector.

dmiles140
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2020 8:25 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37S

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M37SJoe wrote:
Fri Jun 04, 2021 8:09 am
Dmiles,

The Dealer just does what Infiniti says to do. I even paid them to troubleshoot my car and all they could say was "replace the entire rack". That cost me $300.00 but I got a free car wash! Initially, I cleaned the contacts on the Connector and it helped for about 6 months. When the problem returned, I decided to cut the connector and solder in the 4 pin Trailer Connector. Many miles and much time has passed since then with ZERO problems. I got all of the same codes you got. I did some research and you can buy the original connector. All in it was almost $100.00. So that's when I decided the old fashioned trailer connector would be worth a try. It is a little scary to but the car's wiring harness but be brave and do it. I replaced the Motor and Sensor first using used M35 Parts but the real problem for me was the connector.
M37SJOE

Can you explain the process of cutting the connector and using the 4 pin trailer connector? I attached pics of a 4 pin trailer extension connector as well as my original connector that appears to be damaged. Where did u get the 4 pin trailer connector you used from?

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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Trailer 4-Pin.png
Trailer 4-Pin.png (88.86 KiB) Viewed 4582 times
I'm sure he means one of these. It's a trailer extension cord, the connectors mate and you can cut them off to make a mating pigtail set. They're nice for exposed connections because the pins have plenty of metal and they're completely waterproof with a little di-grease. Just match wire-for-wire across the existing connector when splicing.


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