haha, thanks man.fullmetal wrote:wow this has turned into a hell of a thread I hope that a lot of people take an interest in this and learn the proper way to build an engine
i built my for this same reason. fun on the street quick and responsive.codyace wrote:I think it's probably the most fun setup you could have. Fast on the roadcourse, mid 11 second power, and damn fun on the street. No waiting or anything...just go baby go!
Wordidahotuner wrote:
i built my for this same reason. fun on the street quick and responsive.
Very true.idahotuner wrote:But whne you up to a larger turbo and make more power it justs means more things will go wrong most likely. and it costs alot more. to build car witha huge turbo and really make it work.
BC stuff is junk. You'll see that of all the higher HP cars per particular setups all run JWT cams (or HKS Step II's). By the time you buy all of the BC sillyness, get them dialed in and installed, and then get the springs and retainers, you could have eaisly got JWT S3's, plopped them in, and been doing big smokey burnouts.two40splease wrote:Hey codyace Im planning on puttting bc stage 2 cams and their retainers and springs. Am I going to gain any more by just having Jim wolf s3 cams like you recomend.
JWT S3 and S4 Cams and setups are safe for 7850 rpms on a stock valvetrain.two40splease wrote:and if I did get JWT s3 cams without springs and retainers It wouldn't be safe to hit high rpms right?
I actually only swained the manifold. I wasn't sure about swain coating the turbine housing, as we think that the extrude plus swain on them causes premature cracking around wastegate flapper area. I figured if that was the case, Iwasn't going to spend it on the o2 housing either.Emperor_Tha wrote:did u swain coat the turbine and elbow as well? Also do u have a reading of the temp of the manifold after driving for a bit.
This is what I would do. Theoretically you should be good if you remove the head properly. Also I would NEVER EVER use roloc disks. Just get gasket remover spray, itll take off all the old material with that and a gasket scraper, not razor blades. Then after all thats done, just check it with a straight edge, most of the time you will be fine, even if the motor was "warmed up" past the acceptable temperatures. Most honda builds never need the deck surface resurfaced, and IMO they would need it more with floating cylinders.tripleJs15 wrote:The pop charger is huge, and some pics will be great, thanks.
OEM composite gaskets area always an issue (through removal), and you also fight the actual seal not being true enough for a metal headgasket. The one advantage of the composite gasket is that it forms to the head/block, including those surface areas less than optimal (where the metal gasket does not).ryan15 wrote:This is what I would do. Theoretically you should be good if you remove the head properly.
Roloc discs are designed to clean and or remove surface imperfections from aluminum, or steel, or any metal surfaces, without actually removing the metal itself. They work extremely well for most builds not utilzing a MLS headgasket, that are not known to have overheated.ryan15 wrote:Also I would NEVER EVER use roloc disks. Just get gasket remover spray, itll take off all the old material with that and a gasket scraper, not razor blades.
While the SR may not be as prone to change as the KA in terms of getting hot and warping, it still can happen. To ensure the pefect seal, a deck is needed with the MLS gaskets. Every manufacturer of them suggests this as well.ryan15 wrote:Then after all thats done, just check it with a straight edge, most of the time you will be fine, even if the motor was "warmed up" past the acceptable temperatures.
Every engine is different. Guys that have issues with block/cylinder spacers not working or preventing seal need to get their stuff decked everytime.ryan15 wrote:Most honda builds never need the deck surface resurfaced, and IMO they would need it more with floating cylinders.
It runs dead strong, and is super quick. Can't go wrong with 400+whp and 4.60 gearsryan15 wrote:Now to OP, your build looks awesome, I love to see people do setups where everything wok togther so perfectly, +1 for using stock cast manifold as well, this should be a pretty sleeper setup, and a hella of alota fun on the street!
With SR20 motors, the stock composite style gaskets are usually good for 300-350 at most. Most guys simply upgrade to MLS gaskets for their superior sealing qualities and detonation resistance. In all honesty, the Cosworth MLS gasket costs equal the stock one, so it is really the obvious choice when it comes to rebuilds in this day and age.ryan15 wrote:knowledge. Also being said, when I get down and dirty with my motor I will most likey use, oem composite HG with arp head studs, I think of it as a good "fuse" for detonation, of course before doing so I would do the proper research, the only engines I would put a metal HG on would be all aluminum.
Copper spray and MLS = NO NO. The MLS gaskets come with a coating on them that works to help enduce better seal. Copper spray should be left for composite style gaskets.ryan15 wrote:All in all, you are right, many people usually can get away with a good clean-up of the blocks deck, tripple check with a straight edge, and copper spray,
Exactly.That's why I stress the deck job, espcially for the cost of it.ryan15 wrote:but yes there are BETTER ways to do it. I have read enough horror stories on this forum about MHG`s not sealing correctly when skipping the proper steps.
There is an entire lineup of Roloc disc products, sizes, and strengths. I've never used an agressive one, only the stuff for gasket removal.ryan15 wrote:Also alogn with the roloc disks, im not sure what material or grit you would use for "clean up", but when I hear roloc discs what comes to mind is a rough grit 2" disk used to take down paint fast to apply body filler.
While I can't say for sure dyno wise, I can say this:240sxHitman wrote:hey codyace, what are your takes on the full race bottom mount manifold? and eventually mated to a 2871r .64 (eventually speaking not getting this anytime soon)
I don't read into manufacturers claims at all. It's alread been proven that the Tomei manifolds crack, and that they don't signifigantly change the powerband any different than the 125 Megan Racing manifolds. To me it's just for those that want to buy a name.tripleJs15 wrote:Look into the tomei manifold, supposed to give you the same results or better than stock or extruded stock. It was discussed somewhere in this thread or maybe another on Nico.
Thanks for the insight. I'll roll with the stockie and get it extrude honed when im able to.codyace wrote:
While I can't say for sure dyno wise, I can say this:
When that manifold ws in the works/coming out, I personally emailed Geoff about doing a dyno comparison of his manifold verus min, at Evans Tuning (his tuner of choice). He knew my setup (swain and extruded)
Everything was going smooth, we were setting up dates/times etc etc, and then all of a sudden he backed out, saying he would want a tunable EMS on my car, to make the needed changes per manifold. I explained to him that the majority of SR20 guys run stock or ROM tuned ECU's, and he still wouldn't do it without a standalone of sorts.
To me, I take that as him essentially saying 'it won't make more power', and was going to rely on tuning to make up the difference. To me that was answer enough.
Now I don't want to get into a pissing match, as his stuff is nice, but I'm even more confident in mysetup because of that. Cast is stronger, it helps retain heat (quicker spool), and it's facotry divided....you can't go wrong with any of that!
Extrude and Swain will cost less than the Tomei to boot!240sxHitman wrote:Thanks for the insight. I'll roll with the stockie and get it extrude honed when im able to.
Nicer looking welds <> better weldstripleJs15 wrote:since my car isn't finished as yet I can't throw any numbers out, as far as the difference between megan and the tomei there's a huge difference. From the quality of the welds, to the weight, even the steel looks like a better quality. Flanges are thicker. All around it seems much better quality than megan or ssauto... but to each his own.
Sounds good, keep us posted!tripleJs15 wrote:Should be putting back the car together in the next few weeks, we'll see how it goes.
While I don't know for sure, I can think of 2 possible solutions240sxHitman wrote:I have another question for ya but more to the tuning side.
The ecu I got from JRE was I guess you can say tuned or modified by mine's, would that affect my ecu from getting tuned by enthalpy/JWT when I finally do upgrade to bigger injectors, turbo...etc?