30K service and oil change

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MZH
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Hi guys,

My bi-annually oil change is scheduled in march, and my odometer is around 27K.Is it a good idea to get the oil change done along with the 30K service ?

Can we do this ? any suggestions ...


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szh
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haseeb wrote:My bi-annually oil change is scheduled in march, and my odometer is around 27K. Is it a good idea to get the oil change done along with the 30K service ?

Can we do this ? any suggestions ...
Ummm ... I am confused by your question a bit. Have you not been changing the oil regularly (at an interval like 3750 miles or 5000 miles or so)?

If not, then you should start on that schedule immediately (no more than 5k miles or 90 days between changes). This is cheap insurance for your engine! Use a good synthetic or if the oil cost is a concern for some reason, just use a decent dino 5W-30 oil (Castrol GTX or Chevron Supreme) - the frequency and using decent oil is far more important than what you use.

Z

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MZH
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I was told to do oil changes every 6 months or 7500 miles after 20,000 miles on odo.Now it is approaching 30K service, odo showing me around 27K.30K service is a little expensive, I have to take my car in for a quote.I am planning to get a quote from both INFINITI and NISSAN.

I am due for an oil change in March, I was wondering if I can do everything together this time ? rough idea how much I should expect for this ?


Sazar
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haseeb wrote:I was told to do oil changes every 6 months or 7500 miles after 20,000 miles on odo.Now it is approaching 30K service, odo showing me around 27K.30K service is a little expensive, I have to take my car in for a quote.I am planning to get a quote from both INFINITI and NISSAN.

I am due for an oil change in March, I was wondering if I can do everything together this time ? rough idea how much I should expect for this ?
I would shoot for around 3750 or so for your change interval buddy. 7500 is pushing it.

And the 30k service typically includes an oil-change amongst other things.

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szh
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haseeb wrote:I was told to do oil changes every 6 months or 7500 miles after 20,000 miles on odo.
Not great advice. If you look in your Owner's Manual, you will see their recommended intervals in the back.

By the way, what happened to the oil and filter changes on your car during the first 20k miles? What were you advised to do then? What did you actually do then?
haseeb wrote:Now it is approaching 30K service, odo showing me around 27K. 30K service is a little expensive, I have to take my car in for a quote.
Who do you use in Santa Clara? If it is Frontier Infiniti, do you get their flyer coupons? These reduce the prices quite a bit. Ask your Service Rep for the coupons when you take the car in.
haseeb wrote:I am planning to get a quote from both INFINITI and NISSAN.
Okay. I'd recommend Infiniti over the Nissan dealer ...
haseeb wrote:I am due for an oil change in March, I was wondering if I can do everything together this time ? rough idea how much I should expect for this ?
If it is just an oil AND filter change (always replace the filter too), you can do these at places other than Infiniti or Nissan (if you are concerned about their prices).

An oil change should run you about $25 maximum using dino oil (assuming you take my advice below and get the filter from Infiniti). If you use synthetic, it will be more.

Buy the engine oil from any auto parts store (get Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 at Kragen, or Castrol GTX 5W-30, or Chevron Supreme 5W-30 - the second two are dino oils), the filter from the dealer (should be about $7 to $8 bucks) and take it to almost any local garage and get the oil change done. I use Precision Tune and Goodyear places for this "in-between" oil change.

If you use dino oil, then you can also use whatever the local garage has in a 5W-30 weight ... like I said, the frequency is far more important than the absolute oil quality. But, do use the OEM filter rather than the stuff that the local shops stock - they go for low cost, not quality or consistent reliability!

Never, EVER, use one of the Jiffy Lube or similar oil change places. They have been known to do silly things to cars even on something as simple as an oil change!

And, as always, please keep your oil change receipts safe (oil purchase and the labor - have them note the mileage accurately) if you get it done at any place other than Infiniti (including Nissan ... I do not know if they can upload their records to Infiniti). This will allow you to make warranty claims properly if you have problems with the engine later.

Z

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antzrus
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This issue of Infiniti recommended oil changes @ 3k miles is an anachronism. Modern oils, especially synthetics go 3 times that distance w/out problem.

Think about the oil crisis, the environment, your pocket book and lost time @ Jiffy Lube (!!!).

And then finally let's use some common sense. I have been driving for 45 years now; lots of different machines. I can remember pouring the cheapest crap possible into my first car a '56 Chev Belair, and now Mobil 1 into my current M. I have never, ever had an engine problem that was caused by any kind of oil problem in 45 years.

I now own a premium luxury sedan (first in my life), this modern engine built as no other of my previous engines that I had trashed w/the cheapest dino oil sometimes thousands of miles a quart or two low and up to 15k miles between some changes w/out any, none, zero oil based problems; and you tell me my M will break down if I let my Mobil one go 12-15k between changes??

I guess I'm gonna' "save (yeah right-I get 12mpg...)" the earth and my pocket book and my valuable time (you cannot replace time-we only get so much) @ Jiffy Lube and take the outrageously small chance that my M's engine will conk out due to oil failure and I won't be able to use my warranty to fix it.

Come on. How many have you heard on this list or any other that an oil based problem conked out their modern Nissan engine..?

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Pour what you want into your engine. Have you ever owned a high performace engine before? There are specifications in the manual for a reason. Do what you think is right. Most of us here baby our cars, but then again we are not posting everyweek with engine problems after 30K miles. The VK45 and M is fairly new and there are not many case studies over 100K miles, hence why we take care of it.

The same goes for gas. There have been members that complained the the engine requires 90-91 Octane, but because of gas prices put in regualar at like 85-87. Then a few weeks later wrote in asking why there engine makes a loud knocking noise.

Just let us know when you decide to sell your M so we can warn others not to buy it due to service neglect.


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We warn all our prebuy inspection customers to run away from cars which don't have written PROOF of 90 day 3750mile changes. [because the newer engines are so sensitive to abuse].

But dealers don't care since the mainteance dogs are all wholesaled to auction on trade ins and end up in iffy lots or palmed off on the unsuspecting.


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szh
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1. If you do a search for Jiffy Lube, you will see instances of where they sent cars out without drain plugs , lost the screws holding the oil pan cover plate (so just put in sheet metal screws), forgot to re-install the bottom engine compartment cover, etc., etc., etc. I WOULD NOT trust them with my car ... even a junker! I'd rather figure out a way to do it myself if that was my only option.

2. If you plan to not keep your car for more than 70k to 100k miles, or are leasing the car and plan to turn it back in after a few years, then I suppose your oil change interval could be justified for you! FWIW, I have been burned by buying a lease return once, and now know that I will not do this ever again!

3. I like to make sure that my cars are (a) working well for me, and (b) the person I sell it to - eventually/maybe - will be happy that I looked after my car. Careful records and careful work on the car will, hopefully, add to the value and price I get for it!

4. Engine oil and filter changes are relatively cheap insurance - compared to the cost of engine replacement if you do have an engine failure. And, yes, I do agree that the probability is low. But, yes, we do know of instances where poor engine maintenance has caused problems - even in modern Nissan engines.

5. I will again note that using synthetic oil is a choice - I do not push it as a requirement at all. As far as I am concerned, if anyone wants to use cheaper dino oil (just get something decent ... in multiple quart bulk bottles to save costs if needed), but follows a good oil change interval, then that is just fine by my book!

6. Finally, the best way to be certain of whether you are doing the right thing in regards to engine oil, is to do an oil analysis (http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ ... for example) and see what is happening to the oil in your engine. See for yourself, accurately, if your extended change interval works for you ... if you are satisfied with the test results, then great!

Z

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MZH
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Hi, Thanks szhosain and everyone as well.

Schedule1 (3750-3months) was done till around 20K-21K.Got the car from my brother around this mileage.

Now I do oil change by Schedule2 (7500-6months as advised by FRONTIER). I usually don't drive more than 4K in 6 months. Right now it is around 3700 in last 5 months guys considering that I think Schedule2 is OK.

I will check with infiniti if they can give me a quote for 30K serivce in few days and will post it.

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Q45tech wrote:We warn all our prebuy inspection customers to run away from cars which don't have written PROOF of 90 day 3750mile changes. [because the newer engines are so sensitive to abuse].

But dealers don't care since the mainteance dogs are all wholesaled to auction on trade ins and end up in iffy lots or palmed off on the unsuspecting.
Oh come on! Having you in on this issue is kinda' like asking the Pope if it's OK to have an abortion. You are in the business of selling us these very services.

These compulsive and ultra dramatic "you must" oil requirements and admonitions to not be caught w/out our paper evidence that we've paid all your home bills on a regular basis makes perfect sense. After all it's our capitalistic system; keep on buying. I can't complain tho-I run my business the same way...

Oh, for some good and real compulsive input about oil and Nissan engines check out this thread: http://www.my350z.com/forum/sh...58663

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szh
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Well, you are definitely entitled to your opinion, for sure!

But just keep in mind that T3 has a lot of real world experience seeing high-end Infiniti and Lexus engines that have been damaged and replaced at their places. Their locations in Atlanta, T3, are among the finest non-dealer places you can take your car to for work to be done!

And, if you do any searching and reading of Dennis's posts, you will see that he comes "armed with research and data", as I like to put it! So, I am sure, from both those points, that there is validity to what he is saying.

Regardless, like I mentioned before, the best proof is to simply do an oil analysis on your own oil from your own car, and then decide how you would like to proceed. Having been there and seen the results from a car that I have owned, I am a firm believer in "sooner rather than later" oil and filter changes. And, again, it is not strictly a requirement to use synthetic ... dino is just fine if the interval is soon enough!

BTW, I'd also highly recommend for people to buy and read this book: "How to Select A Motor Oil or Filter For Your Car Or Truck" by James C. Fitch from Noria Corporation. You can buy a PDF from http://www.noria.com/secure/motoroilbook.asp for $14.95 download. Well worth reading!

Z

P.S. Forgot to mention that that was a good thread on oil and oil analysis!! Good to see that he also recommends the same oils I recommend in my posts here and use: Mobil 1 0W-40 for synthetic and Castrol GTX 5W-30 for dino - based on posts here at NICO from an oil expert (who does not post here anymore unfortunately). If you do a search for engine oil threads here at NICO, you will also see more information on various oil formulations.

By the way, the recommendation there for dino oil (Castrol GTX for example) is to stick with 3k mile oil change intervals.

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szh
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Here is a thread at NICO that is relevant: zerothread?id=6610.

Z

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haseeb wrote:I was told to do oil changes every 6 months or 7500 miles after 20,000 miles on odo.
Not by your OM!

7,500 mile OCI is fine if you are driving exclusively on flat highways in the mid-west for hours at a time and using sythetic lubricants. If you do any urban driving or short trips, you are on the severe duty cycle as stated in the OM which recommends a 3,750 mile OCI.

You should probably read around the Forums on the oil consumption problem that ill maintained or improperly broken-in VK45DE suffer.

GJEMD
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I recommend reading the literature at the AMZOIL web site. This is the first and most researched synthetic oil in the world.

Oil changes have more to do with How you drive and the conditions you drive in. If you use Premium, Brand name Gas like Chevron or AMACO there is virtually no contamination of the oil. If you are driving a healthy mix of intown and 60 mph + driving on paved roads then the time elapsed on Synthetic oil is not a factor. AMZOIL filters are unsurpassed in the industry.AMZOIL will defend in court any warranty denial if their change intervals are observed. I use AMZOIL 5W30 and Amzoil filter at 7500 intervals regardless of time. I might add two things will destroy a drive train.1. constantly pushing it to the limits2. Not driving the car for weeks at a time.

I believe most VK engine issue are related to these two issues

maxnix
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antzrus wrote:1.) This issue of Infiniti recommended oil changes @ 3k miles is an anachronism. Modern oils, especially synthetics go 3 times that distance w/out problem.

2.) I let my Mobil one go 12-15k between changes??

3.) Come on. How many have you heard on this list or any other that an oil based problem conked out their modern Nissan engine..?
1.) My question for you is how does the crankcase know what kind of oil it has in it? Blow by contaminantion, especially on cold start along with the condensation which occurs over time is the enemy of lubrication. And these all occur no matter the lubricant employed. Synthetic lubricants will extend the performance envelope of the lubricant, but extending the OCI is just a marketing ploy to trap tightwads into thinking that time in use and operational patterns don't matter, which is false. Kind of like the "all season" tire marketing euphemism.

2.) "Member's standards vary." - Q45tech

How long do you think that thimble size filter works? Even an M1 filter?

3.) As a matter of fact, yes, it is quite common on the Toyota V6 for instance when OCI are extended. The heads gunk up terribly and the engine needs repalcement. One can FUBAR any engine with any lubricant by over extending the OCI.

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szh
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maxnix wrote:Blow by contaminantion, especially on cold start along with the condensation which occurs over time is the enemy of lubrication.
Exactly! On the new VK45 engines, the tolerances were "eased" quite a bit (some might say "too far") to increase the horsepower. This has led to increased "oil consumption" in the VK engine ... where the oil is being burnt in the cylinders and, presumably, some of the burnt material is coming back into the oil.

I have done the oil analysis to show the contamination in the oil. This has nothing to do with whether the oil is synthetic or not!

Hence my strong recommentation to do early oil and filter changes - and, if desired, a recommendation to use good dino oil rather than synthetic, if cost is a concern. Because, in these "sloppier tolerance" engines, the interval is far more important than the oil used!

Z

maxnix
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Remember, the freshest oil is always the best oil.

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MZH
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Got the book u mentioned http://www.noria.com/secure/motoroilbook.asp

Let me know if anyone is interested I can email it, or if someone wants to put it on the forum permanently that is good as well.Too much Physics in it man but Ch6 shed some light on which oil to get ...


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szh
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haseeb wrote:Got the book u mentioned http://www.noria.com/secure/motoroilbook.asp

Let me know if anyone is interested I can email it, or if someone wants to put it on the forum permanently that is good as well.
Uh, no, we cannot do that. We would be violating copyright law.

Please note that you should not e-mail it to anybody either.
haseeb wrote:Too much Physics in it man
haseeb wrote:but Ch6 shed some light on which oil to get ...
Yup!

Z

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MZH
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OK guys ... just talked with the NISSAN service representative ...

Oil Change: somewhere between $30 - $40 and they will use Kendall 10W-30.If I bring my own oil it will be $20.

I forgot to ask whether it will include the oil filter or not but I don't think it will be that big a difference (u can get that yourself OEM one).

I told him my M is around $27500 he told me to wait around 2K miles more before I go for a 30K service.

30K service:$349, $549 and $649 and it depends what services are included in them but max was $649.

I am still waiting for the INFINITI guy to call me back, by the way last time I requested a oil change quote I was told $100 hoping for a better quote this time, will update you guys ...

Thats NISSAN and INFINI in Santa Clara @ Stevens Creek.


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MZH
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Ohh yeah, Just noticed that on Page2 sorry about that ...

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MZH
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Talked with the Infiniti guy ...

They charge $50 and put regular factory oil, really dont know what that is ...

I asked him 10w-30 or 5w-30 synthetic/non-synthetic he said NO just regular factory oil.Of course I can take mine in as well.

Any suggestions guys ???

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nmgoodthing
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I always get my oil changed from the dealer every 3500 miles, and have never had any issues. They use the factory oil and I get a loaner G35 for the day. Comes out to about $54.


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szh
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haseeb wrote:Talked with the Infiniti guy ...

They charge $50 and put regular factory oil, really dont know what that is
As I recall, Frontier Infiniti in Santa Clara, CA uses Quaker State 5W-30 - that they probably buy in bulk. There ain't no such thing as "regular factory oil"!

As long as you do every 3750 miles, this is fine. I prefer other oils (I use Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 for my cars), but, like I say all the time, the OCI is more important than the specific oil you use.

Z

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szh
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nmgoodthing wrote:I always get my oil changed from the dealer every 3500 miles, and have never had any issues. They use the factory oil and I get a loaner G35 for the day. Comes out to about $54.
That is fine!

Z

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MZH
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by the way, how many QT of oil go in M35 ?

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szh
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haseeb wrote:by the way, how many QT of oil go in M35 ?
When you change the filter, it takes 5 quarts for an M35, 5 3/4 quarts for an 2006 M45, and 5 7/8 quarts for a 2003/4 M45 (simpler to just use 6 bottles for the M45). Since I always recommend changing the filter every time you change the oil, I am not going to give you that other number.

BTW, the information is in our stickies: zerothread/125907 as well as in the Owners Manual ... near the end.

Z

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MZH
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This is a very nice post very comprehensive THANKS


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szh
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haseeb wrote:Oil Change: somewhere between $30 - $40 and they will use Kendall 10W-30.If I bring my own oil it will be $20.
By the way, given the current barrel of oil prices, it looks like "cheap" dino oil is no longer accurate. Most of the local places are now selling Chevron Supreme and Castrol GTX for $3.29 to $3.49 a quart.

Means that 6 quarts will run just over $20 or so.

So ... if you plan to use stock dino oil and are following a 3000 or 3750 mile interval, you might as well use the oil that the change place provides.

Only worth stopping at your auto parts store for synthetic ... Mobil 1 0W-40 is now $6.50 a quart around here. Sigh ...

Z


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