300zx 5speed trans

[nochain]

Ok so I am starting to collect parts to 5 speed my Q and I was woundering if it was possible to use the N/A 300zx parts to do the swap?

From what I have read they are internally the same, so what is different about them? Could I get away with useing all N/A parts like the trans, clutch kit, flywheel etc.? Or mix and match like N/A trans/starter and tt clutch and flywheel.

Sorry for having to ask but I cant seem to find the info I am looking for ( maybe I'm not looking hard enough haha )

Only reason for asking is I need a trans for my Q and in my local junkyard there is a N/A z32 and I can get all the parts except the clutch kit, driveshaft, and mounting plate.

Any imput would be awsome especially since my Q is in peices right now and the trans is out so hopefully I have the funds to pull this off

And I dont care if anyone thinks I am wasting time and money by 5 speeding it I just know I am going to keep breaking autos and I feel lazy not shifting my car and I think I can do it for cheaper than upgradeing my auto trans that already needs a rebuild

[Q451990]

A couple of members have completed M/T swaps. Wes (Elwesso) and subtle_driver are the two that come to mind.

s_d's thread:
installing-a-5-speed-into-my-q45-t480074.html?hilit=q45 manual transmission

and the Wes thread:
worlds-first-5-speed-stickshift-q45-t410470.html
but there are lots of pictures missing...

Heath

[nochain]

Well I have a good idea on what needs to be done to get the trans and all that in I just wanted to know if I could use a NA trans, flywheel and clutch kit or the NA trans with the tt flywheel and clutch kit?

[Q451990]

I would PM either of those guys... probably the fastest way to get an answer. Since the cars share the same or similar A/T, at first glance it would seem like that would be a natural choice - but I don't really know.

Heath

[nochain]

Ok I found out the info I want. And for anyone that wants to know, you can use a NA trans with either TT or NA flylwheel and either NA orTT clutch kit. All this info is what I was told by Mazworx so you can maybe save some money on a 5 speed swap by just buying the NA trans over the TT cause they are exatly the same

[Q451990]

Thanks for letting us know! Please keep us posted on your swap! Like I mentioned in another thread, I would love to get this down to a "parts kit" "follow these steps" type process... probably not likely, but I would love to do this some day.

Heath

[nochain]

Well unfortunatly it may take a while. Right now my biggest problem is the mounting plate I have been trying to get ahold of WES to see if they still made that mounting plate but I have not heard anything back. And for me to have mazworx make me a plate and machine the bellhousing is $500 so right now Im over budget haha......Know anyone how needs a power FC for a SR20DET. If I can sell that I could have the swap done before the new year haha

On a side note since I cant get a hold of WES were do I find a NICO ecu cause the JW is 500 and if I am going to spend that much money on a tune I might as well go Nistune.....any sugestions

[OwnerCS]

Thanks for letting us know! Please keep us posted on your swap! Like I mentioned in another thread, I would love to get this down to a "parts kit" "follow these steps" type process... probably not likely, but I would love to do this some day.

Heath

Right on Heath!

If lost my transmission I would have a hard time throwing money back into the same old pot of soup -- as it were. I would much rather apply a long term (5-speed) fix to that problem.

[subtle_driver]

Use a 300zx tt flywheel and clutch. don't waste your time with the n/a. it is too small and will wear out fast.

I used n/a clutch pedal parts and brake parts and lines, it wasn't fun to get the clutch pedal to install. You will need a welder or a friend with one to modify the pedals so they fit correctly.

Many of the the tt-5speeds have better syncros, but they are the same strength and gears. just use the n/a trans. When you order your Mazworx stuff, make sure you get the block off plate for the starter, the starter shim, and the throwout bearing shim at the same time. I had to make my own and it was annoying. The n/a bellhousing is thinner so the starter needs a shim to clear the larger flywheel..

I'm working on urathane engine mounts for my Q45 and a steel front upper control arm/shock brace before the next BMWCCA race in LA. You will need new engine mounts after the swap.

[elwesso]

I am running all N/A parts, and IMO as long as you keep everything the consistent it will be fine. I have an upgraded clutch from south bend clutch on my Q, even though its for an N/A it still holds like 400 ft-lbs.. Use the N/A trans for sure, they are easier to get and much cheaper, for some reason people think they are a lot better when they are basically the same.

Why do you think you need urethane engine mounts? Ive put 20k miles on my 5 speed Q with no issues.

[nochain]

Thanks for both of your imput....
It looks like the auto is going in this week, cant get around right now so I am having to thow in a trans for now. And I need to finish my damn coilovers, the backs are on but I cant find a drill bit large enough to fit the mounts for the front

The next set of coilovers I buy I am swaping out the front spindle for a Z32 front spindle so the fronts basically bolt on and you just need to file the top mounts a little

I am supossed to get my na trans this week hopefully...I was told by Mazworx that I could run the na flywheel with the tt clutch so I think that is what I am going to do, and I am not go in to run a lightweight flywheel so if that dont work I will just get a tt flywheel and move on from there.

Since my dash is out I am thinking of using a 90-93 center consle and moding it to accept a handbrke and getting rid of the foot brake so that I have at least the e-brake part of the swap done haha Any handle sugestions that would fit in there and work?

[bsbiz11]

What's up to everybody involved. Writing to say that my 94' Q is ready for the swap too. Nochain lets order our adapterplates from Wes at the same time. Hopefully others that are doing swaps see we are ready to go now. I need mine done ASAP. I bought a 12.5lb flywheel N/A and a stage three clutch kit. I removed all of the sheetmetal work by the brakes and attempted to use the 94' Z pedal on the Q bracket. Not the best fit and will need adjustment, but the brakes work. Just gotta put in the clutch and the transmission. The automatic transmission has to go now cuz the car shuts off after starting it due to it being totally done. My questions are:
1. Can I replace the transmission mount with the mount for the Z, or do I have to buy the Q45 transmission mount that is more expensive?
2. Should I lower the transmission by 1/4 inch to accommodate for vibration?
3. Is it wise to replace the original air filter box with an oval after market breather and relocate the cruise control there?
4. Which clutch line should I use due to the difference in length between the transmissoin in the Q vs. the Z? I saw that the Rx-7 hard line was used, but wanted to know if I go braided, what would be a good fit if the Z clutch line is not.
5. How much do I need to shave off in the tunnel in order to accomodate for shifting through the gears? Just want an accurate account so I don't shave down more than I need to.
6. Do we need shims for the starter and such for Wes' adapter? Everything lined up perfectly with no signs of much shim use on the thread. If shims are needed what are they again and how many?

The layout of Wes' swap was great. Even though, I still want to know if there were any other minor details that need to be addressed.

Nochain, I'm in Atl. Hopefully these answers can help us both. Hit me up at [email protected] with updates, concerns or just to share info as we do this swap at the same time. Just waiting on the adapter plate to start the work. B

[elwesso]

The trans mounts are the same but the heights are slightly different the z is a bit taller so I would say you could use that mount if you wanted to.

The trans should be lined up as close to level as possible. Mine is not perfectly level due to the tunnel not clearing the inspection cover on the shifter. Mine is up all the way without hitting the tunnel however it needs to go up prob another inch. I have a strut tower brace so it was easy to tell for auto vs manual. I have a little vibration and next time the trans comes out I'll probably just whammy the tunnel with a BFH it does not need much more clearance.

I would not replace the stock air filter box. We put the cruise stuff up by the passenger side headlight. The vacuum pump is up behind the headlight and the little flying saucer thing is bolted to the pass side valve cover.

I did not need any shims. I have the stock Q spacer behind the flywheel and it worked perfect with the stock 300zx bolts. I have all na stuff, that is clutch flywheel and starter

For the lines we just made new ones, they are regular flared fittings so just get the tubing and bend it where it needs to go easy as cake

[bsbiz11]

Thanks for the quick follow up Wes. Just waiting for the plate. Any idea of when it will be ready? I'm willing to pay for the plate at a single rate, even. Want the blackbird running again by Dec. 25th.

[elwesso]

Thanks for the quick follow up Wes. Just waiting for the plate. Any idea of when it will be ready? I'm willing to pay for the plate at a single rate, even. Want the blackbird running again by Dec. 25th.

right after I made that post I called my machine shop.. the guy I deal with has been on vacation, and he will be back on monday, or at least thats what the secretary thought...

[nochain]

I am down to get an adapter plate right now as well it just depends on how much it will be.

As for the transmission going in you didnt need to modify your pass exhaust manifold? If so would you be able to get away with earlier model manifold cause they dont have pre cats? And when installing I just need to make sure the trans is leval so beat the tunnel in were its needed?

Any ideas on a handbrake set up?

[elwesso]

we modified both driver and passenger side manifolds, eliminating the precats... Incorrect to say that the early manifolds didnt have precats, because they all do.. Only JDM VH45s came without precats, regardless of year...

The precat is just a casting that is welded onto the steel pipes of the manifold, you can take a BFH and whack it off, otherwise you just cut it off and put in a section of pipe to your exhaust.

Yeah, in retrospect we should have just whammied on the tunnel until it cleared enough.. My trans is about 1/4 inch from hitting the tunnel (best eye-guess) and I dont need much more to clear, and I know for sure that you can just beat the tunnel to get it to fit. Another option would be to cut it, it would not require much..

I have run about 1.5 years without an E brake, in Indiana where the houses are less level than the ground they're built on, I've seldom felt like I needed it. My parents have a new buick lacrosse, and it actually doesnt have a manual E brake but an electronic one with some sort of actuator under the car, I will probably go this route.. I have no use for an emergency brake other than to prevent the car from rolling when I want to park the car and let the engine run.. For the time being, I carry an extra 300ZX OEM shift knob to use as a wheel chuck..

[psychoboyaw]

i'm likely going to be moving into the 5speed world in my 97 this winter.

i know the 4.1 and the 4.5 share just about nothing in common, but i do wonder, wes and others with an early Q, what was the bolt pattern of your crank/flywheel? my 4.1looks like a 8bolt x 66mm. i'm pretty sure all the V6 flywheels are going to be 6 bolts. is the 4.5 a 6 bolt, and are you just hanging the 300 flywheel on the 4.5 crank, or is it an 8 bolt and you guys are getting a custom/non-standard flywheel to bridge the gap?

[bsbiz11]

Any Adapter News??????

[nochain]

Ya Same here haha going to the junkyard tomarrow in hopes of finding a trans

[psychoboyaw]

i'm likely going to be moving into the 5speed world in my 97 this winter.

i know the 4.1 and the 4.5 share just about nothing in common, but i do wonder, wes and others with an early Q, what was the bolt pattern of your crank/flywheel? my 4.1looks like a 8bolt x 66mm. i'm pretty sure all the V6 flywheels are going to be 6 bolts. is the 4.5 a 6 bolt, and are you just hanging the 300 flywheel on the 4.5 crank, or is it an 8 bolt and you guys are getting a custom/non-standard flywheel to bridge the gap?

did some digging and found an answer. the 4.1 is an 8 bolt crank. the Z32 is also an 8 bolt crank. the flexplate from my motor bolts right up to the z32 motor. so, putting a Z32 flywheel on the 4.1 shouldn't be an issue.

[subtle_driver]

I went with tt flywheel, the clutch is larger and will hold up to more abuse and last longer. Mine holds 600 ft lbs of tq. I race my Q45, and I drive it on mountain roads every day to work. I broke the new mounts already, that is why I am making a urethane mount set.

1. Can I replace the transmission mount with the mount for the Z, or do I have to buy the Q45 transmission mount that is more expensive?
I think I used the stock mount. Look at my build log to see how I made the mounts. it gives perfect clearance.

2. Should I lower the transmission by 1/4 inch to accommodate for vibration?
yes.

3. Is it wise to replace the original air filter box with an oval after market breather and relocate the cruise control there?
it will make more room, but not necessary.

4. Which clutch line should I use due to the difference in length between the transmissoin in the Q vs. the Z? I saw that the Rx-7 hard line was used, but wanted to know if I go braided, what would be a good fit if the Z clutch line is not.
I Used a 300zx hard line. works great.

5. How much do I need to shave off in the tunnel in order to accomodate for shifting through the gears? Just want an accurate account so I don't shave down more than I need to.
I didn't shave anything from the tunnel. The Mazworks kit mates the transmission right up to the engine, don't need to do this.

6. Do we need shims for the starter and such for Wes' adapter? Everything lined up perfectly with no signs of much shim use on the thread. If shims are needed what are they again and how many?
Shims are needed if you have the n/a transmission and are using a tt clutch. if you are using the smaller diameter n/a flywheel you don't need a shim for the starter.

The layout of Wes' swap was great. Even though, I still want to know if there were any other minor details that need to be addressed.
....

BTW, my 1990 Q45 has no precats, and it has a stock USDM engine. and the junkyards have no precats on the early q45's. oh well. maybe I'm just crazy.

I checked my tt clutch disk on a n/a flywheel and it was too big. eh. I think the pressure plate bolts up tho.

[nochain]

AWWWWW I was totally at the junkyard and forgot to check this Q's headers for that I want to get some bad how much would you charge to ship me a set? haha Didnt find a Z but found a great deal at a nissan only yard in the same area.

Subtle
How does your s*** sit any pics with a shift boot? How offset was it and how much work or if the modifided shifter brackets for the 240 would put it closer to the center?

How difficult do you think it would be to use a 240 e brake?

[bsbiz11]

I bought the z transmission mount from e-bay for $50 to accomodate for a possible lowered tunnel fit. Wes said that his transmission needed to be raised slightly, so I figured I'd go with the slightly taller z mount. Hopefully, I can take off enough of the tunnel to have the transmission sit flush, then using a level, level out the transmission via the bracket. I purchased all the ancilliary things to complete the swap with my last check. I hope using the Z mount won't raise the transmission too high. Juuuuuust neeedd theeee plate. I have a solid affinity for loyalty, so I really don't want to use Mazworks' plate. I want to keep the loyalty with my swap to Nico. Plus, Wes said his plate will be a full circle and have no need for bellhousing machining. I can't stomach shipping the bellhousing to Fl and back, plus buying the plate. Wes should come through soon.

Hey, No Chain, I got my transmission from JDM in NJ. I paid 200 dollars and it came with the shifter, starter, and shifter knob.

[nochain]

^^^^^^
How much did you pay for shipping? Im in Cali so I would imagine it being around 350ish to my door or would I be wrong? hahah
I was hoping to get the plate before the trans just cause it s the most important part. And I need to sell a few more parts but I am having a hard time selling my Apexi unit I see myself taking a huge loss on that thing kinda wish I built my 240sx insted seeing as the cars gone but I still have a built SR and a standalone that I cant sell or trade.

[bsbiz11]

Hey NoChain go here: [url]http://www.jdm-online.com/transmissions[/url]. They say that shipping is free and the transmission is $350. I'd go JDM only cuz the transmission probably has less miles than from the junkyard here in the states. I hope the holiday seson will inspire Wes' machinist to make some christmas gift cash so we'll be set. ANyway, I do have a few more concerns for the swap.
1. Do I chuck the transmission computer altogether once the swap is done?
2. Can I have Wes update my 94' ECU and will that change the rpms for better or worse with the 5 speed?
3. If I change the diff to 4.08 wth the possible upgrade to the ecu, will the car perform better?
4. Can i totally remove the transmission park sensor that attaches to the brake pedal?
5. Are there any tricks of the trade for lining up the 5 speed transmission using a Torin floor jack with the transmission adapter?

Bought a Smith and Wesson shifter handle from Autozone. It looks cool, feeld good in my hand and hopefully I won't need to lengthen the shifter rod as a result.
Hit you guys later.

[elwesso]

It was kind of ironic because when I first drove the 5 speed car, the TRANS MALFUNCTION light was on and the cruise didnt work.. Simply removing the TCU made the cruise work and made the light go out, go figure!

The ECU isnt really affected. I would like to see how it acts, because mine idled a little lower than factory, however Im not certain my car has always idled properly? If you want to go with a NICO ECU sometime down the line, thats fine but I didnt change anything in the ECU to accomodate the transmsission and it was fine..

I really wouldnt change to a 4.08 diff, you'll notice that the Z guys with VH45s and 5 speeds are wanting to get away from the 4.08 gear and go down to the 3.54. Not to mention, I like getting 24MPG highway! First time you dump the clutch in 1st gear you'll be thinking its good enough!

[bsbiz11]

Any adapterplate news? Payday tomorrow.

[elwesso]

Actually the plates are cut, and they are going to be doing the finishing touches next week.. Im HOPING to have plates to ship a week from monday, since I still have to get hardware and other stuff like that.

[bsbiz11]

Thanks Wes. I am ready. Throw me a price so I can calculate the cost of sending money western union if you'd ,like. REMEMBER, I wanted a plate with the welding done, so I can just bolt up. Thanks again Wes for being a Q pioneer and deduct it from my check now.

To get cheezy, another member said the Q can take all your dough. I agree, that's why this forum is great to help us save money and rip the roads apart and give us the ride we've been looking for. I always wanted a V8 something. I thought about the chevy Impala 96-98'. But, my family is a Nissan family. So i didn't know what to do. My wife crashed my 93' buick Century and I needed a new car. I saw this black sedan waiting to be bought by an Italian dealer in NY. The engine was an 8. The car was a Nissan. The leather looked great! So, I bought the car and found out that I became eye candy to everyone there.

The car had a bad engine, but the body was great. So I bought it, did an engine swap from the 94' to the 96' engine. The car has been great since. So, to anyone that is thinking about rebuilding a Q45 before 97'. Remember, you can finance a new Nissan or Infiniti if you can afford to. But for anyone driving the Geo metro and can buy a Q for restoration and use this website to fix it, it will reward you and you will feel like you have that 2011 Infiniti for $7,000 or $18,0000 to $20,000 less.
Thanks again and Everyone doing the conversion now, enjoy. I can't wait to "Shift it Myself."

No Chain are you ready to buy???????????????????