Hi I am fairly new to the forum

and wanted to introduce the project I am doing.I am installing a 327 turbocharged v8 into my 240sx. so far changed all the bushing on rear suspension and subframe.used energy suspension on suspension arms and ball joint and solid aluminum complete replacements form nip with the thin rubber bushing between subframe and body or car.sway bars installedI have remove spair tire and cut out trunk area between fraimrails.Have analuminum fuel cell fitted in place .used universal sbc motor mount and heavy duty motor mount pads.I built the transmission mount to stock mounting points.drive shaft has been set. the whole drive line from the motor to rear wheels is inplace, just need to tighten some bolts after adjusting camber for wheels. the rear brakes have new hawk pads installed, ebc drilled and slotted rotors, ss brakelines, q45 hubs, and 17X10.5 wheels sitting on them.The firewall has been cut out and move back 5 or so inches to make room to move engine back . 7qt road race oil pan for an f-body on there and it was not clearing the steering rack.fire wall has been rebuilt with the exception on acces port I am putting in it that I have not built a cover for yet.I need to be able to access motor from inside the car in order to remove the brackets I built to support motor from cherry picker.also to be able to unbolt the top of tranny with out having to pull motor.I installed s&w 10pt roll cage, mild steel because I am building on a budgetand I do not plan on santctioned racing events. just open track and mountain driving. Is all installed but about 90%welded. minus the side doors that i used to further reinforce the rearbraces. aluminum steering column bushing. new tie rod boots.new tie rob bushing. Interior is stripped of everything but the dash board support and some soundproofing that I have not remove from floor yet.custom adapted my old power steering pump to chevy v8. exhaust to turbo is built and from turbo back just need to add bung for AFR gauge, and one more hanger.I got a mig now, before I was arc welding.welded on some plates to framerail jack stand points to reinforcefraim rails as form lifting the car with a small jack from these points they have become a little warped looking.In the front I have installed the ebay 5 lugs I bought and the q45 brake upgrade along with the kyb shocks and rs*r race springs.

I have all the parts listed below waiting to go in .enjoy the pics.

feed back welcome and apreciated.

balanced and blueprinted 327 v8 (bored to a 334)with all the goodies, (aluminum heads, valve covers, chromoly rockers,h=beam rods, forged aluminum pistons, aluminum water pump, hi torque ministarter, etc.chinese gt45 turbo(had all the cheap parts replaced with real garret stuff)brand new tko 500 trans that handles 500ft/lbs with .68 overdirve for highway cruising , complete hydraulicclutch setup from mcleod (no fork). quicktime bellhousing. centerforce dual friction clutch,q45 diff, front ebay 5 lug conversion, rear q45 hubs. kyb gr-2 shocks with rs*r race springs 5kg f and 4.5kg r.energy suspension master bushing kit.tanabe sway bars(chromoly) 30.4 front and 22 rear.megan racing seats and harnesses. no a/c or heating for now. going to use aftermarket hotrod a/c and mount in backseat, laterfull b-magic widebody kit. 30mm front and 50mm rear.raceonusa ram air healight conversion with piaa lights.24x12x3 XSpower intercooler from ssautochrome.total msd ignition system. aeromotive a1000 pump , universal bypass regulator,voltage regulator and fuel filter,blueprinted carb tuned to specs.aluminum mustang replica wheels 17x9 f and 17x10.5 rwith kumho ecsta 255/40 f and 285/40 roptima redtop battery ( mounted between rear shock towers).custom exhaust from sbc turbo headers to turbo( shortened the headers and put on new collectors, 3 in on one side and 3.5 on turbo side), custom intercooler piping, 4 in high flow random technology cat.inland empire custom 3.5 in aluminum drive shaft (750 hp rating)stoneraing wastgate 50mm with 5.83 psi spring (still have the 10.15 spring that came with wastegate)ssuatochrome bov.will be altering hood to allow carb hat to fit under



















Modified by 450SX! at 11:27 AM 6/3/2008

Modified by 450SX! at 11:37 PM 6/11/2008

Modified by 450SX! at 6:56 AM 8/8/2008

Modified by 450SX! at 1:06 PM 9/22/2008
Modified by 450SX! at 11:20 AM 2/20/2009

sick! I want a small block

Moved to Hybrids

Sorry like I said, I'm new.

thanks. It has been a lot of work so far.

what kind of small block would you put in?

Looks good!

6.0 if I could get my hands on it. but alas.... I'd settle for a tune port. with a t 56... lovely.

I actually wanted to get the tpi conversion for this motor but it was like $2400.

right, but how about using one of the newer 327's out of a truck? that would be pretty gangster too. any small block in a 240 would move well.

I thought about it. the 5.3L motors out of tahoes and sierra trucks.some have aluminum blocks too. probably would ahve been a good option they are not that expensive either. the 5.4 out of an impala was also appealing. I also considered the vh45de and the vq35de . just wanted a big six or little 8 that i could work on. and get some reliable power out of for a daily driver.

I kind of wanted the carb for ease of wiring and maintenance given that is part of the point of my building versus buying . no more mechanics. no offense to mechanicsI just can not justify spending money on something I can do myselfespecially when I have had some bad luck with them.

I got my engine for free and had it totally rebuilt, only things reused were the steel crank which was refinished and balanced and the blockwhich was bored to be a 337 because it was already .03 over now is .06.everything else is brand spankin new.

I don't know how hard it would be to wire up the new small blocks. most gm's usually have the ecm in the engine bay with the motor. and I know there are companies that reflash the ecm's for gm's to eliminate the emissions. that's what makes a small block swap appealing to me. I've also thought a lot about swapping in an older l6 from a 280z. that would be bangin...... but alas, the de was free.

I did not know about those options when I started my build. also my assumption is that I can afford to do this as long as I do the work.

If I could do it again I would either do the vq35de ttor an ls2 with the t56, probably tt as well.

nice thing about carberutor is it will make installing the hydrogen generator for hydrogen supplementation easier.

from what I have read because it createsso much heat it makes the ecu think that the car is running lean so it adds more fuel. I know someone who has successfully installed one of these kits on a hybrid and there is something that can be done so the ecu will not add more fuel.

just sounds a whole lot easier ona carb to me.but that is my take on it with the lack of knowledge i have.
Modified by 450SX! at 11:33 AM 6/5/2008

hydrogen!?!? why would you do such a thing? you don't really have to answer that..... I know you're trying to be green. nevertheless, how could that help for power? what about the boost? aren't you worried about it running too lean and blowing sky high? I know you live in cali so you may have a different take on things than I do about automobiles but in my experience any automobile made to be eco friendly never made much power. do you know of any one out there with a boosted hydrogen car? here in tn I don't think there are any hydrogen fill stations let alone cars. how is the price of hydrogen compared to premium gas? would you get some kind of tax break if you had a hydrogen car? hey, you're car won't pass an I/M 240 test the way it'll be. will it? and what does it take to convert to hydrogen? I'd love to know. it'll be educational for me since it's technology that's really only on the west coast as of now. here in tn we kind of have an old fashioned view to hot rodding a car. even when I had a civic I had the timing so ridiculously advanced I had to use premium. I still have yet to work on a hybrid electric car and I'm a mechanic for a living. so let me know about this hydrogen deal you speak of. I need the education.
Modified by fodojonny at 3:50 PM 6/5/2008

You actually run the car on gas and create hydrogen by electrolisis as you need it.

you literally have a small liter or so size tank with distinlled water with 15g of sodiumhydrochloride.have two bolts going through tank in close proximityand run you current through them + to one and - to the other.I have read and seen footage of people doing this to produce hydrogen and oxygen. you are basicall taking water and turning it into gasso you get hydrogen and oxygen out of it.people have used different amps to do this.one kit was using between 15-18 amps and I saw a video where they said they used only two amps.

So I am going to build this device( you can actually find examples to follow online if you google hydrogen supplementation)and want to put a voltage or amp regulator on it so that I can set it to create more or less and I would like to set it to increase in production up to a certain rpm or boost psithen I want it to either decrease in production or shut off. easier to make shut off at a given rpm as all i would need is a rpm switch from msd. Going to talk to my dad's electrician who used to totally reduewiring in cars when he was younger for advice about amp regulator.

you create the hydrogen in one tank , use rubber tubing to send to another tank and release in to water , it boubles up and from there you run another line to the intake. I am putting a small piece of 4" pipe (couple of inches long)in between my air filter and turbo so I will weld on a fitting for the hose to attatch to there. what happens is you are burning gas and air, but you are adding more oxygen and hydrogen to the intake air.

apparently adding the hydrogen causes the combustion process to react with the carbon more and you get a much cleaner emission. the plus is that it increases horsepowerbecause the hydrogen basically packs a punch, also creates more heat. I have aluminum intake manifold, heads, radiator , and high volume water pump with two 10"electric fans. hoping this will deal with the heat.

I am looking into the effect of adding more hydrogen to intake and how that deals with compression.I have also considered using a knock sensor to activate the msdswitch to shut down hydrogen production . not sure yet about the necessity yet though. I would ideally have the hydrogen production taper and not stop.

I will start with only 6 psi of boost anyways. and I have the msd6 btm with the retard so I may just use this to moderate.

I have some reading to do about the pure science of the combustion process and the heat required to combust hydrogen.

hope this helped.

here is a videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGj20BKOOik

This weekend I stich welded most of the engine bayand then me and my dad painted it. Magnesium pearl. it is a chrysler paint color.

in the pics you can see how the firewall has been moved back.

there is still the small section to acess back of motor. need to build a cover to acess from under dash.

stich welded seems on shock towers and those adjoining to frame railsin engine bay and where frame rails overlap and connect to cab down by the trans tunnel( fully welded these).

i made a brace across the top of where I cut into firewall as I had to cut into the support structure to make room for the distributor. I use L shaped steel to connect to the l shape in the material already there. went up and over with the L.then went from corners to out on firewall L shape. then put a 1/8 " triangle over to make stronger and prettier(not hack job) .also made an l out of 3/16 by 3/4 on the inside of cab across top of where firewall was modified.

steering column has been put back in and fits nicely but was once again removed for the painting which I did not forsee doing.was going to go with cheap earl scheib job. I like mine better. .

here some pics of the paint and stich welding.

sorry about the funny lighting. my cars is on jack stands behind a building on a ranch and so in order to work in the rain or get reid of direct sunlight for painting I have to hang a very large blue tarp from edge of roof to the side of hill next to my car.

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then the motor came out[IMG][/IMG]

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here are my new headlights [IMG][/IMG]

Modified by 450SX! at 10:53 PM 6/11/2008

Modified by 450SX! at 11:22 PM 6/11/2008

Modified by 450SX! at 11:24 PM 6/11/2008
Modified by 450SX! at 11:28 PM 6/11/2008

make the pictures bigger. keep us updated

This weekend the front end got finished and put back on . all the bushings, dust boots , springs, it is oficially hanging from the car again. scary how light the front end is with out front suspension or and engine. with interior stripped. I could lift the front end off the jacks with my hands easily. did by accident helping my dad with something and then decided to pile a bunch of heavy stuff in the front seat area until some weight was back on front end.

put the wiper blade motor back on , brake and clutch master cylinders.

put motor in just to realize that I need to further modify the firewallarea. also the arm connectin passengerside wiper to motorwould hit my distributor. so I moved the wiper over about 2 to 3 inches.

shortened one controlling arm and lengthened the other with piece I cut off the other. unfortunately I ran out of mig gas so I will reweld those next weekend.

I cut into to the main structure that supports the firewall at bottom of windshield. this was done so that I can take out the distributor and change spark plug wires with out having to pull motor forward on cherrypicker to accomplish this task. I reinforced the structure. did not finish welding as I ran out of gas.

Sorry no pics I forgot camera this weekend. Will take and post this weekend after I finish.

plan for coming weekend.going to finish support structure , touch up paint, and put motor in, start redoing the exhaust to the turbo.

Modified by 450SX! at 11:56 AM 6/16/2008
Modified by 450SX! at 12:50 PM 4/29/2009

dam i was thinking of puting a 350 in my 240 but you make it look to hard.

There is probably a front sump oil pan to use. that will make the whole thing a whole lot easier. I did not know.I read about people with the vh45de having some issues with the front sump and clearance so I figured the rear sump would be gravy.

I also wanted to set the motor as far back as possible for weightand clearance to mount the front mounted turbo. my shifter now sits with in a half in of the original shifter position.will take pics.

with shorty headers and a front/rear sump it could be much easier. if you use a t56 it might be a better fit because the trans is longer than the one i used.

this is my first build ever. before this I had changed my oil,brakes, shocks, springs , and bushings on sway bars. I definately did not think I was in for this much work.I would have given up or paid someone else to finish the buildif I could have afforded. although now that I have gottensome the harder stuff out of the way I can finally see the dam car being finished. I am going to be happy as hell though when it is done knowing that me and my dad built it. especially since my problem is going to be not creating too much horsepower so I don't brake my block. have 2 bolt main 327

if you decide to put one in I would be happy to answer any questionsI can. I know there are a few people with 350's and 302's in there240 that have not moved there firewall back. there is a guy on this forum who has a 302 in his with a youtube video of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pW65OockPEQ

I definately did this the hardway because I did not research the install as much as I should have before selecting motor and parts.

Modified by 450SX! at 5:13 PM 6/19/2008

Modified by 450SX! at 5:15 PM 6/19/2008
Modified by 450SX! at 6:06 PM 4/29/2009

so I finished fixing firewall support and touched up paint. Redid some welds with the mig that were holdingthe sbc universal motor mount. had been welded withinner shield before. apparently not suitable for welding where there is seismic activity. given that I have a high horsepower motor that will be shaking constantly I put this with seismic activity and took caution.

put motor in for the last time.

here are some pics.

notice the 240sx power steering pump custom mounted on the chevy motor.

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some more progress on my build

got the exhaust built to the turbo and started the exhaust from turbo back.

exhaust not all fully welded but about 50 percent.

wastegate installed, finished welding more of rollcage.

here are some pics

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Modified by 450SX! at 12:36 AM 7/13/2008

got the exhaust built all the way back, needs to or three more hangersthen need to take off to finish welding then primer . I am going to wrap as much of the exhasut as I can with 4 rollsof 2" by 50' exhaust wrap and spray it.hoping to cover everything in the engine bay.

also got the wilwood .75 clutch MC installed this weekend.fabbed up a plate that will bolt to oem location and welded the bolts to it for the new clutch mc. this way I mount clutch mc on plate, mount plate on car . fits great

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After I set the car on the gorund I might raise up the exhaust in the back a little , also got new b-magic bumper that will extend down more . need to get that on to see how it all really fits and looks.



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does anyone know how to or where to find infoon adapting the 240 throttle cable to a holley carb?

you project is awesome.. i like the way engine sits on the engine bay. it sits very back.

good luck. i will follow this to the end =)

thanks

finished tacking up the intercooler piping .also cut mounting brackets off of bumper and remounted them so that the bumper sat about 2 inches higher.for some reason this was needed in order to get my new bumper to sit where it should.

here is a pic of the bumper with no brackets and the 1/8 in plates I welded on to weld the brackets on to.

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and here is a picture of the bumper roughly fitted to hood and fenders.

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My dad got my back bumper nicely fitted and one quarter panel almost ready to mount permanently. cut the oem quarters to make clearance for the suspension travel.no pics of this yet.

looking good, is their any way you could post some picks of your steering shaft clearances. that would be awsome

man that thing looks sick!

how i didn't see this thread till now is beyond me.

I will take more pics because this one is not too good.from under car looking up.

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very cool build. here's a bit of advice for you, those ssautochrome exhaust manifolds don't last very long, a couple of heat cycles and they start to crack. if you want a low buck solution, get some old school vet exhaust manifolds they can also be found on some 65 to 75 chevy trucks and install them upside down and y pipe them to the turbo, these will also crack in the long run but will last a lot longer. i have tried every shorty or long style header and none of them last. stock style exhaust manifolds seem to last longer but dont look as cool. hope this helps