240sx 500HP can it handle it??

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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93RPS13
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can an S13 handle 500HP with out twisting the chaisse? i am asking because i dont what to mess up S13 with a what i call GTR-R (RB30DETT) engine, also i am planing to bolt in a 4 point rollcage to stiffen up the chaisse

Thanks


Jamison
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I think you need a 6pt to run 11.99 or faster.

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93RPS13
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i just want to know if the s13 can handle it ... thanks for the reply any ways

Jamison
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The only reason I said you would need at least a 6pt is because with 500rwhp you will be in the low 10's probably in the 9's, with the right traction. But I suppose with a good rollcage, maybe an 8pt with some extra chassis siffening bars should be enough for that amount of power no problem.

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PROJECTRB240SX
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tube your frame, just have a frame shop direct connect your front and rear frames and add in cross links.

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RubHamuSan
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stitch weld it. maybe get a 6pt cage. i bet there is a ZOOM mag that has this swap in it. ZOOM is insane. i just read one that has a holden with a rb30 in it but was SC and had a LPG convertion on it. the intake temps were ice cold. look it up . they also had a bit on a 12 sec gemini wagon with a fj20det. or a zed with a 1JZGTE in it. aussy's are just all up on's, with the insane swaps.all up on's , what does that even meen?

Nathan
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a 4pt isnt a cage...its just a fancy roll bar in my opinion. Get at least an 8pt. That'd be a fast car...and really friggin expensive.

Joe
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yea a 4 point is not a cage, its a rollbar no matter how you look at it.

and i belive its 10.99 or faster for a required cage.

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93RPS13
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my really goal is about 300rwhp but i was just seeing of the car can hold 500rwhp becuase maybe i want to exspend for more power

DSSA
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RB30DETT with 300 h.p. now?

You need a cage for 11.99s or better (not 10.99).

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93RPS13
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DSSA wrote:RB30DETT with 300 h.p. now?

You need a cage for 11.99s or better (not 10.99).
RB30DETT with 300 h.p. now?

what??? i am planing to run stock RB30DETT with no other mods other than intake, exhaust, and ECU(power FC to run it)

Redline240
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musicsurfman wrote:tube your frame, just have a frame shop direct connect your front and rear frames and add in cross links.


Got anymore info on how to tube a frame? No frame shops around here, just a lot of crazy mechanics and bodymen....For me a cage is in order, i plan to make 400hp and maybe a turbo upgrade in years to come with a long term goal of around 700hp...i guess we'll find out when karl(veilsideS14) finishes all his tuning. He's runnin the RB26 with a T66 at 19psi...thats way over 500...we'll see when he has it dyno'd...oh and he doesn't have a cage...

Redline

DSSA
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93RPS13 wrote:RB30DETT with 300 h.p. now?

what??? i am planing to run stock RB30DETT with no other mods other than intake, exhaust, and ECU(power FC to run it)


I'm asking because the 1st post was for an RB30 w/ 500 h.p.

Why someone would waste the expense of putting in a RB30 over an 25/26 for only 300 h.p. is just confusing me.

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93RPS13
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oh ok i understand if you read the 1st post again it said can the s13 handle 500hp, i didnt say that the engine nessecerly had 500hp as i am asking because maybe in sometime in the future i want 500hp or may 700hp, also the reason i want a 4 point roll bar is because no other cages or bars will let you use the back seats

Nathan
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I want a 4 pt. roll bar too, but I realize that it wont stiffen the chassis much at all if I ever do get it.

DSSA
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93RPS13 wrote:oh ok i understand if you read the 1st post again it said can the s13 handle 500hp, i didnt say that the engine nessecerly had 500hp as i am asking because maybe in sometime in the future i want 500hp or may 700hp, also the reason i want a 4 point roll bar is because no other cages or bars will let you use the back seats


With a 6-point, you can have just as much access as you do with a 3-point for the rear seats. A 4-point is the same as a 6-point, but without the front side-bars. It just has the hoop, then the rear extension bars, whereas the 6-point has a sidebar coming from the hoop up to the front floorboards.

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93RPS13
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really are you shore(sp?)?

meggala
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I have been in a stock bodied s13 with close to 500 hp the car is still oing fine no chasis twist or any thingthe car was running an sr with a 3037's @ 1.6 baralso driven an r32 with well over 700 hp and not much in the way of chassis strenghtening l no problems and no fatigue that I could seemeggala

DSSA
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93RPS13 wrote:really are you shore(sp?)?


Yes.

DSSA
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meggala wrote:I have been in a stock bodied s13 with close to 500 hp the car is still oing fine no chasis twist or any thingthe car was running an sr with a 3037's @ 1.6 bar


You're saying that S13 pictured is putting down close to 500 h.p.??

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93RPS13
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i think look at that turbo

DSSA
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93RPS13 wrote:i think look at that turbo


What about it?

Look at the intake manifold as well.....

A "big" compressor housing doesn't mean jack.

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93RPS13
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but way buy a compressor housing to make it look big, i dont see no big *** rice wing or 24" rims

DSSA
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93RPS13 wrote:but way buy a compressor housing to make it look big, i dont see no big *** rice wing or 24" rims


I think you're missing my point, a "big, shiney" compressor housing doesn't mean "the car makes power". You can have a compressor housing that size on a KA24 and still only put down 200+ h.p..

There are a *LOT* of cars out there that have large compressor housings like that--but very few 2.0 4 cylinders with them put 500 h.p....especially with the stock, restrictive intake manifold.

Either way, a large compressor housing doesn't mean that a turbo is capable of huge h.p.

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PROJECTRB240SX
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TUBING THE FRAME NEEDS TO BE DONE BY SOMEONE WHO IS REALLY GOOD WITH WELDING NEAR FLAWLESSLY, KNOWS METAL STRENGTHENING, AND CAN LOCATE WEAK POINTS. THIS IS WHY I RECOMEND A FRAME OR UNIBODY SHOP. ANYWAY TO TUBE THE CHASSIS YOU FIND WHERE THE FRONT AND REAR FRAMES END AND THE UNIBODY STARTS. CUT OUT THE WHOLE UNIBODY, AND WELD BOX TUBE METAL AT THE STONGEST POINT ON THE FRONT FRAME TO THE STRONGEST POINT ON THE REAR IN PLACE OF THE TWO UNIBODY RAILS. WITH THAT IN PLACE YOU WELD A FLOOR TO REPLACE THE UNIBODY FLOOR. WELD THE BODY SHELL ONTP OF THE FLOOR. REPLACE BODY PANELS. NOW YOU CAN ADD CROSS SUPPORTS TO REDUCE EVEN MORE FLEX, THIS SHOULD BE DONE TO THE WEAK POINTS IN THE FRAME. NOW IF YOU ADD A ROLL CAGE THERE SHOULD BE VERY MINIMAL TO ABSOLUTELY NO FRAME FLEX OR TWIST.

Redline240
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musicsurfman wrote:TUBING THE FRAME NEEDS TO BE DONE BY SOMEONE WHO IS REALLY GOOD WITH WELDING NEAR FLAWLESSLY, KNOWS METAL STRENGTHENING, AND CAN LOCATE WEAK POINTS. THIS IS WHY I RECOMEND A FRAME OR UNIBODY SHOP. ANYWAY TO TUBE THE CHASSIS YOU FIND WHERE THE FRONT AND REAR FRAMES END AND THE UNIBODY STARTS. CUT OUT THE WHOLE UNIBODY, AND WELD BOX TUBE METAL AT THE STONGEST POINT ON THE FRONT FRAME TO THE STRONGEST POINT ON THE REAR IN PLACE OF THE TWO UNIBODY RAILS. WITH THAT IN PLACE YOU WELD A FLOOR TO REPLACE THE UNIBODY FLOOR. WELD THE BODY SHELL ONTP OF THE FLOOR. REPLACE BODY PANELS. NOW YOU CAN ADD CROSS SUPPORTS TO REDUCE EVEN MORE FLEX, THIS SHOULD BE DONE TO THE WEAK POINTS IN THE FRAME. NOW IF YOU ADD A ROLL CAGE THERE SHOULD BE VERY MINIMAL TO ABSOLUTELY NO FRAME FLEX OR TWIST.
i

Oh my.....

Redline

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PROJECTRB240SX
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IF YOU WANT POWER IT IS THE SAFEST WAY TO GO. IF YOU GO TO A GOOD SHOP IT'LL BE AROUND $1500-2000 FOR THE TUBING AND ROLL CAGE.

Redline240
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I think i'll just stick with a roll cage...

Redline

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PROJECTRB240SX
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WELL IF YOU ARE GOING TO PUT SERIOUS POWER TO THE GROUND YOU MAY HAVE TO STIFFEN THE CHASSIS.

DSSA
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A rollcage and front and rear stress bars will be plenty...

"Serious power" in this case would be 1000+.


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