2023 Rogue Transmission Fluid Check

[oldnissanguy]

How do you remove the transmission dipstick on a 2023 Rogue?

Maybe I need to rephrase this question. How do I check the transmission fluid level?

[VStar650CL]

There's no dipstick. The only good way to check the level is with the leveling plug on the bottom front of the housing.

[oldnissanguy]

Rats! I just had the Splash guard off changing the oil/filter and checking the transfer case oil level. Guess I'll have to take it off again.

Anyway, thanks for the info. Any chance you have a picture of the plug and location on the housing?

[oldnissanguy]

A related question, how does the dealer check the level during the 7,500 mile service?

[VStar650CL]

They don't, they just check the fluid degradation number and inspect for leaks. When there are no leaks, the best course for a DIYer is to do cold spill-and-fills replacing exactly what you drain out. That's true even if you drop the pan, provided you catch it all and don't make a mess. The only time you should really use the leveling plug is if you have a leak or don't know exactly how much you removed.

[oldnissanguy]

I'm just thinking that if I have any trouble with the transmission (unheard of with a CVT, right) dealer will say I didn't have anyone check the transmission fluid so it's my fault. I have around 7,700 miles on it at this point and there are no leaks. I was expecting 25,000 miles before a service. BUT, I think you're saying that the dealer never checks the actual fluid level at the service intervals unless they see a leak, they just assume that it has the correct amount, not over, not under?

I've never owned a vehicle that I couldn't easily monitor all the fluids. I'm sailing uncharted waters, for me.

Last question, maybe. How does the dealer get a fluid sample for the degradation test?

[V6er]

@oldnissanguy, isn't it fantastic when your owners manual and nissans schedule says "check fluid", but all those "trained specialists" do not do anything?

@VStar650CL, there are dealerships where they don't even look at that degradation number.

in fsm, of course, is that one damn screw underneath

personally - I would suggest to check TSB NTB18-055c - I made myself dipstick from some whatever dipstick I bought in oreillies.

[oldnissanguy]

Amazing document! Reminds me of the 17 page installation guide that came with the fog lights for my daughters' CR-V.

So, would a dipstick from a 2013 or older Rogue work, be the right length? I'll bet I can find one of those.

[V6er]

don't know about older rogue dipsticks. for me it was easier to buy one in oreillies(10bucks?), measure those 530ish mm and be done.

[D1dad]

I just checked the fluid after vstar and myself found out that my 24 Altima cvt runs hot as hades. By design. I’ve got a scanguage 2, which I’m sure anything that measure trans temp will work. Anyways, I got the trans to 100 degrees, pulled the plug and there was a trickle. Dead nuts on. So the trans just runs hotter than cvts of old.

[VStar650CL]

I don't think the GE's will have the same length as the old '10's, so you'll probably need to make a dipstick if you want one. You'll end up making non-factory notches in it anyway, so anything will work that fits in the hole and is long enough. Just chop it if it's too long.

The fluid level is usually very close from the factory, so since you haven't had a service yet, just make a notch slightly below the cold level after sitting overnight (it isn't winter), then take it for a ride 20 miles or so and make a warm notch. You'll never go wrong if you keep the warm level between warm and cold.

[V6er]

I just checked the fluid after vstar and myself found out that my 24 Altima cvt runs hot as hades. By design. I’ve got a scanguage 2, which I’m sure anything that measure trans temp will work. Anyways, I got the trans to 100 degrees, pulled the plug and there was a trickle. Dead nuts on. So the trans just runs hotter than cvts of old.

1) i am not sure i understood what you said
2) if complain is about cvt fluid temp... you SURE that you got it right? because looking at scangauge2 website it doesn't seem that it might be able to read nissans protocol of 2024 year models... looks like obd2 reader vulgaris.
3) what plug? what nuts?
4) do you know what temp is considered its working temperature? what was outside temperature? what was engine coolant temp?

[D1dad]

My scanguage does read the 24. Unfortunately it doesn’t read my 09 but that cvt does have a dipstick. The only thing ambient temp has to do with checking trans fluid using the leveling plug is how fast it heats up. You’ll wanna pull the plug between 95 and 113 degrees, I pull it at 100. Let the fluid run out till it burps. I usually let it run a few seconds longer, which was my reference to a trickle and “dead nuts on”. If you read my post on my 24, vstar verified using Nissan consult that the new altimas do in fact run hot compared to my 21 and 18 rogue. I suppose a dipstick would work but the leveling plug is a sure fire way to verify it’s absolutely correct. As far as working temps
21 Altima 175-190 at 90 degrees
2018 rogue 175 to 205, I topped at 215 at the top of a mountain fully loaded with 4 people at 90 degree
2024 Altima pretty much will run 198 to 215 all the time, but seems to be thermostatically controlled to never go above 216.

[D1dad]

And the water temp runs a few degrees hotter on the 24 than the 21 as well, although nothing that would indicate an issue. The 21 never get above 197 while the 24 will reach 208. Apparently Nissan engineers have these trans tuned to run hotter to boil off any condensation that may gather. Whether that will prove to be an issue down the road, it to be determined.

[V6er]

well...
1) coolant circuit is connected to cvt fluid via heat exchanger.
2) "mighty" nissan engineers made engine hotter - to dismiss water from oil (so you can "enjoy" longer oil change intervals, damaging your engine in process), to help with emissions etc etc.

haven't heard anywhere that hotter thermostats helps longevity... ;(

[oldnissanguy]

Well this has brought up some interesting options. Leaving town in a couple of days so I'll address this when I return. I have a 13 and a 23 setting in the driveway so I'm going to try some mixing and matching to see what I come up with.

[D1dad]

well...
1) coolant circuit is connected to cvt fluid via heat exchanger.
2) "mighty" nissan engineers made engine hotter - to dismiss water from oil (so you can "enjoy" longer oil change intervals, damaging your engine in process), to help with emissions etc etc.

haven't heard anywhere that hotter thermostats helps longevity... ;(

You’re not wrong. Precisely why the 24 is getting a ready diet of HPL motor oil and exactly why the FSM at Nissan told vstar to upsell cvt service. Common sense and experimenting has told us to get cvt temps down via a cooler for longevity. Nissan jumped the shark on at least the cvt used in the 24 Altima. I’d be interested in some data from the new rogues. There’s a bit of logic behind burning off condensation in a cvt but at what cost? We won’t know for a while unfortunately. I did run to northern Kentucky and back last week. Mild hills doing 80 in 90 degree temps. The cvt would get to 216, then a thermostat somewhere would open and the temp would drop to 208. This was constant and in no way related to letting off the throttle or hitting flat terrain.

[oldnissanguy]

In the past I've always changed the trans fluid before the manufacturers' recommended mileage. In between changes I've used the dipstick to check if the fluid is low and my eyes and nose to tell me if it needs to be changed earlier. I may be too old to own a new car.

[VStar650CL]

I may be too old to own a new car.

My '04 can name that tune in zero notes.

[D1dad]

Yeah unfortunately cvt fluid generally doesn’t work with the nose trick. When my 09 went @95k (original fluid) it still looked good on a paper towel. But, @95k the additives were probably 99% used up. That’s the biggest thing with these turds, is keeping fresh, or somewhat fresh fluid to withstand the heat. My 18 is at 90k and no behavior thus far that it wouldn’t make it 250k. But I am vigilant about fluid changes. In fact I’d call it neurotic. I’m still on the fence if I’m going to run this hpl motor oil out to 10k. It’s $15 a quart so I dam well should, but at around 6 or 7k I don’t know if I’ll be able to control myself.

[oldnissanguy]

Well I’m using Mobile 1 water-oil (0-W20), changing every 3K - 3.5K and hoping for the best.

[D1dad]

You’ll be fine. My reasoning is my wife and I both travel a lot of miles in a hurry for work, so not having to drop that belly pan anymore than I have to. Plus, I do the service myself and a $75 oil change using one of the best oils on the market is no different than getting screwed by a quick lube. Our 2018 saw nothing but valvoline synthetic with the occasional Mobil 1 every 4-5k and looking down through the fill hole is spotless. The new engines being direct injection are a different animal though. My 21 had the oil level rise from fuel dilution last winter when I wasn’t driving a lot, so I would keep an eye on it. But Mobil 1 at your intervals should be fine, or really any synthetic honestly.

[oldnissanguy]

I do my own service as well but my middle child owns a mechanic shop so I have a lift available whenever I want. I don't like other people messing with my cars so he only gets to do the things I can't like alignments. As soon as I get back from seeing the mouse, I'm going to solve the trans dipstick enigma.

[D1dad]

Sorry I don’t have any advice on the dipstick. But I’m jealous as can be about the hoist. I’d get all kinds of stuff done with one of those. At 51 crawling around under cars is starting to suck. I’d still pull that leveling plug to make sure it wasn’t overfilled, especially if you plan on keeping it.

[VStar650CL]

I’d still pull that leveling plug to make sure it wasn’t overfilled, especially if you plan on keeping it.

Yep, +1. Easy-peasy when you have a lift to get the car up level.

[oldnissanguy]

I’m 77 and crawling under a car REALLY sucks. I’ll do the leveling plug when I get back.

[V6er]

not just overfilled, but is it enough (which also might cause excessive temperature for cvt fluid)... ?

anyway - need to check T33 too.

p.s. when we got T33 last year - I insisted on alignment done at dealership with printout... 3 of 6 adjustability points were "in red" - now you know why "tires have no warranty - they are war and tear items" in nissan "houses" )

[oldnissanguy]

Just had it checked and mine was off, but not now.

[VStar650CL]

not just overfilled, but is it enough (which also might cause excessive temperature for cvt fluid)... ?

They need to be way underfilled before you see any symptoms at all. We saw one Sentra that literally drove around a full quart low for at least 10K (we don't know exactly how long), but it didn't overheat or even get a headache. On the other hand, even a pint high will usually cause a measurable temp increase, and a quart over is usually a CVT death sentence. It's because overfilling causes the fluid to foam, and the foam creates "thin" spots in the fluid film which is supposed to prevent the belt from contacting the pulleys. That creates extra friction which spikes the temperature in a hurry, plus adding extra shear load onto the already-boiling fluid. They don't last long in that condition, we've seen them crap out in as little as 1000 miles.

[oldnissanguy]

I still could use a picture of the “screw” and location. It took me a while to identify which of the several plugs was for the transfer case.