mac here, If 'n you have had them out of the lenses and additionally R & R bulbs - gotta do this next - pull one out of lens ,Itake it there is enough wire to get a VOLTAGE check using those "ice-pick" looking Idiot testers ? You just need to pierce the positive and clip goes to ground , now you can have helper MEASSURE w/voltmeter on your "pick" to ground - note voltage and brightness , you may also ,especially if weird results gotten , puncture other(grnd return wire of bulb) and note volt & brightness . Variations of this = do it to other bulb , do it w/hi & lo beems in combo ,do this check after bulb is removed etc.
All possibilities will see if it's getting what it needs from headlamp relays / control-box . Lastly you will have wanted to test battery voltage before anything , and try all these tests w/without car running too !!
If you may want to note the actual RESISTANCE (not just "continuity) of all the working bulbs you have , and so if you think they're wrong or defective the Ohms reading will tell you any variations - higher Ohms will of course be the dimmer ones.
* note : A little known FACT is bulb resistance actually increases dramatically upon being "energized" ,hotter filaments have higher Ohms readings.That's why a 12Volt bulb that's 5 watts yet reads 1 Ohm (off or "cold" ) doesn't draw 12Amps and 12 x 12 = 144 watts
As soon as it glows that resistance shoots up to 26 Ohms or so so 12/26 x 12 = approx. 5watt
This what I would try first , Glen 2/19/2018