2010 Rogue shakes while idle

kbendimez · Post by **kbendimez** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 1:34 pm

My car shakes while idle. it has been happening for some time. It will start once my car warms up. The rpms drop while the shaking starts and then return to normal once the shaking stops. I have tried several things to fix but have been unable. Including changing the motor mounts, fuel injection fluid and have taken it to the dealer but of course the problem does not occur while there. I do no have a warranty anymore.
Please help.

YouTube · Post by **ImStricken06** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 3:33 pm

its just a little rough idle. everyone with this car has it. or are you talking about something worse than rough idle?
did you change:
MAF?

Post by **rogueTripper** » Fri Sep 04, 2015 3:07 pm

I have this shake too. Only seems to happen at stop lights, so after some driving around. The idle rpms go from about 750, shakes down to 500, then recovers after a couple seconds. Not sure of the cause. Haven't changed my tranny fluid yet, 140k kms, so not sure if it is that.

Post by **phjake** » Fri Sep 04, 2015 7:09 pm

One other possibility is worn motor mounts.

Post by **rogueTripper** » Sun Sep 06, 2015 9:19 am

Which motor and where would these mounts be located?

Post by **phjake** » Sun Sep 06, 2015 10:28 am

rogueTripper wrote:Which motor and where would these mounts be located?

All vehicles have motor mounts so it's not dependent on the vehicle, or engine it has.

Here's a quote from https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/e ... eplacement. Go to this site for more info.

"An engine mount, made of rubber and steel, has two purposes. One, it secures the engine and transmission to the frame of the car, and two, it absorbs the road shocks and engine vibrations so that the driver does not feel any engine movement. Transmission mounts secure the transmission"

When the rubber part of the mount gets worn, brittle, etc, you will notice a rougher idle when in Drive or Reverse. I only mention motor mounts as a possibility because in warm climates (I'm in the Phoenix area) they tend to wear and get brittle quicker than moderate climates because of the heat.

Post by **zengshengliu** » Mon Jul 25, 2016 8:43 pm

Sorry for bringing up an old thread. Don't want to start another one since its the same topic.
I have the same problem with the 08 Rogue. Usually after some non-stop and relatively high speed (45mph+) driving, when coming to a stop, the rpm will drop to 3-400 range, making the entire car shaking. After a couple seconds, it bounds back to the normal 6-700 rpm. It only happened after the car is warm up, and does not do it all the time, and of course when I bring it in for the dealer to check it out, it doesn't happen to them. They did said they reset the idle air fuel mixture (or something like that) to see if it solves the problem, and it doesn't. They also replace the upper torgue mount assembly on last inspection (February) which I don't know if it is related to the motor mounts mentioned above.

Additional information:
It did happen before the recall was done (VOLUNTARY EMISSION RECALL CAMPAIGN), but it wasn't as bad (rpm around 500), but since then, it just got worse.
And what make me mad, is that I did not ask for the recall to be done, and they just did it.

YouTube · Post by **ImStricken06** » Tue Jul 26, 2016 12:34 pm

zengshengliu wrote:Sorry for bringing up an old thread. Don't want to start another one since its the same topic.

you did the right thing. its not cool to start a new thread, on an already open topic. rehashing an old thread is perfectly normal.

I have the same problem with the 08 Rogue. Usually after some non-stop and relatively high speed (45mph+) driving, when coming to a stop, the rpm will drop to 3-400 range, making the entire car shaking. After a couple seconds, it bounds back to the normal 6-700 rpm. It only happened after the car is warm up, and does not do it all the time, and of course when I bring it in for the dealer to check it out, it doesn't happen to them. They did said they reset the idle air fuel mixture (or something like that) to see if it solves the problem, and it doesn't. They also replace the upper torgue mount assembly on last inspection (February) which I don't know if it is related to the motor mounts mentioned above.

Additional information:
It did happen before the recall was done (VOLUNTARY EMISSION RECALL CAMPAIGN), but it wasn't as bad (rpm around 500), but since then, it just got worse.
And what make me mad, is that I did not ask for the recall to be done, and they just did it.

mine did the same thing. its something with the way the torque convertor engages & disengages. didnt bother me to much.

Post by **zengshengliu** » Tue Jul 26, 2016 2:46 pm

Thanks for the quick response. At least I know I am not alone with this issue.
It just weird since it wasn't doing that before, but as the car gets more mileage, the rpm drop starts to happen, and combine with the recall, make it more noticeable.

kupsovsoccer · Post by **kupsovsoccer** » Tue Aug 09, 2016 7:42 pm

2012 Nissan Rogue with 60,000 miles and it does the same thing. The engine can be cold or warm and only does it when I am idling. Just a little annoying so I haven't had it looked at yet. Has anyone figured out what exactly is causing this shake?

Anyone?

Post by **Elton Noway** » Thu Aug 18, 2016 10:12 am

Same here...2009 SL FWD. Have only ever noticed it when I'm stopped at a traffic light with the vehicle in drive and my foot on the brake. The car will "shutter" or shake for a couple seconds goes back to a smooth idle. It's been doing it since I got the car new 7 years ago. FYI: I had the CVT unit changed yesterday to fix another issue. On the way home from the dealership with the new CVT... sitting at a traffic... the shutter/shake occurred. As a result I'm "assuming" now that the tranny is not the cause. Anyway... it's never really been a concern to me... it happens so infrequently I decided it was just a nuance of the vehicle.

Post by **hpark21** » Thu Aug 18, 2016 4:15 pm

Interesting.. Well, may not apply to Rogue, but when this happened to my Mazda MPV, it was small crack on one of the vacuum hoses for what it is worth. When I was driving, I would not notice it, but only when I am stopped at a light, it would "shudder" occasionally.

Post by **zengshengliu** » Mon Aug 22, 2016 6:56 pm

I think I solved my problem thanks to the hint from hpark21.

What I found, is that one of the retainer (don't know what its call, circled red in the image below is not tighten correctly, its most likely due to the transmission replacement, and the technician forgot to tight it back (they also forgot a couple mounting screws and fender clips but those I found out right away and have them fix it)

My theory is that, when the car is moving, air is actively forcing into the intake into the engine (following green arrow), so the lose hose wasn't a big problem, but once the car comes to a stop, the air movement stop, and it transit to the engine sucking air in. During that transition, the mass air sensor sensing a drop of airflow, thus lower the rpm to account for that (because engine is sucking in air not only from the intake, but also from the lose hose (red circle)
As to why it only happen when its warm up, its probably because, the rubber to metal connection, it was tight when cold, and when the engine warm up, the rubber expands, allowing air to leak through the small gap.

After I tightened the connection, for the past 2 days, I haven't see any drop in rpm (hopefully that is the cause). It also seems like the engine runs better on speed (but could just be my high hope)

This is my theory of my problem, and might not apply to others. Also, I only have 2 trips (100+ miles sum) so the problem might not actually be solved but just happen to not happen for the past 2 days.

NissanRogue2009 · Post by **NissanRogue2009** » Fri Nov 15, 2019 7:27 pm

zengshengliu wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 22, 2016 6:56 pm
I think I solved my problem thanks to the hint from hpark21.

What I found, is that one of the retainer (don't know what its call, circled red in the image below is not tighten correctly, its most likely due to the transmission replacement, and the technician forgot to tight it back (they also forgot a couple mounting screws and fender clips but those I found out right away and have them fix it)

[img]<a class="vglnk" href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8327/2888 ... 8102_k.jpg[/img" rel="nofollow">https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8327/28880950280_c4c0368102_k.jpg[/img</a>]

My theory is that, when the car is moving, air is actively forcing into the intake into the engine (following green arrow), so the lose hose wasn't a big problem, but once the car comes to a stop, the air movement stop, and it transit to the engine sucking air in. During that transition, the mass air sensor sensing a drop of airflow, thus lower the rpm to account for that (because engine is sucking in air not only from the intake, but also from the lose hose (red circle)
As to why it only happen when its warm up, its probably because, the rubber to metal connection, it was tight when cold, and when the engine warm up, the rubber expands, allowing air to leak through the small gap.

After I tightened the connection, for the past 2 days, I haven't see any drop in rpm (hopefully that is the cause). It also seems like the engine runs better on speed (but could just be my high hope)

This is my theory of my problem, and might not apply to others. Also, I only have 2 trips (100+ miles sum) so the problem might not actually be solved but just happen to not happen for the past 2 days.

I am having this same issue and I felt it would be best if I continued with a reply to this thread. I was hoping someone can enlighten me as to where this "retainer" (I assume hose) is located. I am not able to look at the image to use as a reference. If there is a way someone can tell me the location and how to access it, I would greatly appreciate it.

Post by **zengshengliu** » Fri Nov 15, 2019 9:41 pm

I have to update my previous statement.
The issue returned on my car with the same symptom, where RPM will drop to 4-500 range and cause the car to vibrate, and after performing the idle relearn and throttle valve closed relearn, it got worst to the point where sometimes car will stall on start when engine is cold.
The solution (at least for me) is to clean the throttle body.
diy-throttle-body-control-maf-sensor-cl ... 88458.html
This is the post I followed for the cleaning, but I did not disconnect the throttle from the cooling hose. I manage to get a oil pan on one side, and spray throttle body clean on another. I also push the throttle plate (slowly, and carefully) to clean the gap. There are a lot of dirt on the runoff, and after cleaning, and performing the idle and throttle position relearn, the idle issue is gone (for 2 months now). My new theory is that the dirt build up and block the throttle on closed position (the small gap is needed to maintain the engine idle speed). When we come to a stop, the plate is closing, and the dirt block some of the air flow, which cause the rpm to drop. When the computer detects the engine rpm to be too low, it opens the throttle plate slightly, which result in the rpm back to the normal range.

Post by **DTASFAB** » Sat Nov 16, 2019 3:02 am

If all possible airflow and air/fuel mixture problems have been addressed and the problem persists, try replacing the spark plugs.

NissanRogue2009 · Post by **NissanRogue2009** » Sat Nov 16, 2019 2:05 pm

zengshengliu wrote: ↑
Fri Nov 15, 2019 9:41 pm
I have to update my previous statement.
The issue returned on my car with the same symptom, where RPM will drop to 4-500 range and cause the car to vibrate, and after performing the idle relearn and throttle valve closed relearn, it got worst to the point where sometimes car will stall on start when engine is cold.
The solution (at least for me) is to clean the throttle body.
diy-throttle-body-control-maf-sensor-cl ... 88458.html

Thanks for the prompt response. I haven’t cleaned the MAF or throttle body yet, but I think this would be great to try. I’m experiencing the same issue you had. The maf shouldn’t be an issue for me as long as it dries, but the throttle body seems a little tricky for my minimal expertise considering the comments in that thread about the idle re-learn. I recently purchased new spark plugs and a pcv valve. Transmission replaced at ~112k and has ~139k on the body now. Think I’ll do a transmission fluid change In 10-15k miles. Trying to take care of it and drive it until the wheels fall off.

Post by **casperfun** » Sat Nov 16, 2019 7:37 pm

NissanRogue2009 wrote: ↑
Sat Nov 16, 2019 2:05 pm

Thanks for the prompt response. I haven’t cleaned the MAF or throttle body yet, but I think this would be great to try. I’m experiencing the same issue you had. The maf shouldn’t be an issue for me as long as it dries, but the throttle body seems a little tricky for my minimal expertise considering the comments in that thread about the idle re-learn. I recently purchased new spark plugs and a pcv valve. Transmission replaced at ~112k and has ~139k on the body now. Think I’ll do a transmission fluid change In 10-15k miles. Trying to take care of it and drive it until the wheels fall off.

Pretty good stuff done there, I did the same throughout the years with help from this forum and youtube.

The second time I got the vibrating until it stalls & problem codes, I cleaned my maf sensor and used fuel injector/cleaners. Thank God everything is smooth as butter now.

Thinking about cleaning the throttle plate because last time I did, I just stuck a straw into tube and used seafoam to clean it. It was fun creating the white smoke and doing a few Italian tune ups. But I'm thinking about opening up and removing the 3-way tube and cleaning the throttle plate with spray cleaner and a rag.

But I'm afraid I might mess it up since it runs so smooth you can't even feel the steering wheel vibrate or know it's on for that matter.

Think I will wait when it shakes and wanna stall again with codes. Dont want to mess with a good thing.

I am also planning to run this rogue until the wheels fall off too.

Still have the original cvt for over a decade. Been lucky so far in the cvt sweepstakes!
Of course that could change tomorrow.

NissanRogue2009 · Post by **NissanRogue2009** » Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:26 am

casperfun wrote: ↑
Sat Nov 16, 2019 7:37 pm
[quote=NissanRogue2009 post_id=6799239 time=<a href="tel:1573938332">1573938332</a> ]

Pretty good stuff done there, I did the same throughout the years with help from this forum and youtube.

The second time I got the vibrating until it stalls & problem codes, I cleaned my maf sensor and used fuel injector/cleaners. Thank God everything is smooth as butter now.

I am also planning to run this rogue until the wheels fall off too.

Still have the original cvt for over a decade. Been lucky so far in the cvt sweepstakes!
Of course that could change tomorrow.

I tried a couple bottles of chevron fuel injector cleaner towards the end of summer. Didn’t do the trick, but I did notice that the shake/shudder is much worse when the engine is under a load (A/C on) compared to no A/C. Don’t know why, but I’ll add some injector cleaner and an air filter to the list.
That CVT is pretty impressive if it’s still going strong. Mine blew out on the highway with cruise control on. Never using that again LOL.

Post by **DTASFAB** » Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:38 am

You could try Chevron complete system fuel cleaner. It's better than the product they label fuel injector cleaner. Don't expect miracles though. I'm a big believer in Chevron Techron, but it will only clean the fuel system. It can't help with a dirty throttle body, bad spark plugs, air mixture problems, or anything else really for that matter.

Another possibility I thought of, which is unlikely, but the fuel filter is integrated into the pump and cannot be replaced separately on this vehicle. If the filter is clogged, you can try replacing the whole pump, but that will likely get expensive, especially if you're just throwing ideas against the wall and hoping something will stick. No guarantee you'll see any improvement whatsoever. I also wouldn't use a junkyard part for that. Too likely that you'd be making the problems even worse.

Post by **casperfun** » Sun Nov 17, 2019 12:35 pm

I had great success with Techron & BG44k.

I’m not really into additives, cuz I don’t like putting crap in our cars. But we do anyway with dirty crappy corn fuel kept in dirty underground fuel tanks. Heck, fuel injectors must be in sad condition cuz of that.

That gut feeling when you get that stuttering stalling issue really deflated me at that moment back then a few years ago.

Thank god these fuel cleaners and the maf cleaning procedure saved me the 2nd time.

Even returned my missing orange first bar on my fuel display after never seeing it for the pass 9 years.

So I know it had a positive effect on my fuel system.

NissanRogue2009 · Post by **NissanRogue2009** » Sun Nov 17, 2019 12:51 pm

DTASFAB wrote: ↑
Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:38 am
You could try Chevron complete system fuel cleaner. It's better than the product they label fuel injector cleaner.

Definitely have to give that a try. Maybe it will help out the fuel filter. Don’t know if it really needs it, but why not. Thanks.

NissanRogue2009 · Post by **NissanRogue2009** » Sun Nov 17, 2019 12:54 pm

casperfun wrote: ↑
Sun Nov 17, 2019 12:35 pm
I had great success with Techron & BG44k.

I’m not really into additives, cuz I don’t like putting crap in our cars. But we do anyway with dirty crappy corn fuel kept in dirty underground fuel tanks. Heck, fuel injectors must be in sad condition cuz of that.

That gut feeling when you get that stuttering stalling issue really deflated me at that moment back then a few years ago.

Thank god these fuel cleaners and the maf cleaning procedure saved me the 2nd time.

Even returned my missing orange first bar on my fuel display after never seeing it for the pass 9 years.

So I know it had a positive effect on my fuel system.

That’s some good stuff. I haven’t heard of BG44k. I’ll have to try the Techron complete fuel system cleaner and follow it up with the BG44k. Figure no harm, no foul.

Post by **DTASFAB** » Sun Nov 17, 2019 3:23 pm

BG44K is also good stuff. I've never tried , but I heard that is great too. I'm generally wary of any engine oil additive, but most fuel detergents are harmless in small amounts. Use as recommended and do not combine extra in a single tank of gas. They won't dissolve much gunk if the fuel filter is legitimately clogged, but it can help push through a few extra drops here and there. If the problem isn't that bad to start out, that might be all you need.

Post by **casperfun** » Sun Nov 17, 2019 6:39 pm

Kinda pricey, but well worth it.

It’s actually a secret weapon for dealerships.

Just google it. I’m converted.

Moreover, I just like using synthetic and great oil filters.

And

Hi tier fuel, but that’s not enough since, since I still got the shaky stalling until it dies issues.

Trust me I’m no slick 50 or duralube dude, actually my old as dirt butt did use slick 50 as a teenager back in the day. Lolz

Since I don’t know what’s going under the hood with so many variables, I’m willing to give my old horse some additives since I have nothing to lose and always have an unpredictable cvt bomb cloud over my head from this point on.

Of course chevron is known for Techron, and BG44k you can see on YouTube, amazon reviews, blogs, car mechanic web sites, forums to help you judge for yourself.

Personally, it helped in my situation.

2010 Rogue shakes while idle

2010 Rogue shakes while idle

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