DIY: Throttle Body Control & MAF sensor cleaning

Get the EM and EC portions of the Field Service Manual.

Here is a picture of both the Throttle Control Actuator and MAF sensor on the car.
The Throttle Control has the square box around it with two of the 4 hex bolts circled in red. The MAF sensor is circled in yellow.


From the FSM


First, I took out the MAF sensor. Unplug the electrical connection to the sensor. You will need just a Philips screwdriver as there a 2 screws to take out (be careful not to drop them when unscrewing). The two screws are circled in red in the picture below.



You will then be able to pull out the Mass Air Flow sensor. Be Careful with it!!!
I didn’t take a picture of it, but I found one that looks almost exactly like the one on the Rogue.



Use a cleaner that is specifically for the MAF sensor. I used CRC.


Spray it into the small holes in the sensor using a decent amount. Read the back of the bottle, it tells you how to use it.
Set the MAF aside in a safe place to let it dry completely.

Now to get the Throttle Body off you need to take off the big black rubber air duct tube that is held on with 2 flat head screws via the clamps and one Philips screw, which are circled in Blue below.



Once those are unscrewed, pull the rubber tubing out of the 3 contact points.



Here it is off the engine.



Okay, now to take the Throttle Body off. Unplug the electrical connection on the throttle body. There are 4 hex bolts that need to come out. There are also two tubes you need to unclamp using pliers (pictured below).



You need to unscrew these in a particular order as noted in the FSM. The order is below in the picture



When you go to put it back on they need to be tighten back up in that order otherwise you could have an air leak.
You may need to replace the gasket as well. The part # is 16175ET80A. You could also get it from Rockauto.com
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,6474

Mine stayed on the car and looked in perfect shape so I did not mess with it. If you do need to change it out make sure to scrape off every little bit of the old one and clean it with throttle body cleaner.
Here is mine off the car.




Now use the Throttle Body cleaner as picture before and really clean it up. Use a lit free shop rag or something similar. You can also use a toothbrush to clean all the deposits off. I also used some q-tips. Make sure there is no lint left behind. Clean both sides! Also clean the part on the car the throttle body bolts to.
Here is mine mostly cleaned up, I cleaned it a little more after this picture.






Let it dry completely before putting it back on the car. Line up your new gasket.
Now refer to the FSM picture above for the order to re-tighten the hex bolts!!
Install everything back in the reverse order. Do not forget to attach both electrical connections to the throttle body and MAF.
Now the one part I was not sure about since it says for Special Repair Replacement. Follow below from the FSM EC pages 504-506



I forgot to reconnect the electrical connection to the throttle body so of course I got the Service Engine light. Turned off the car and connected it then cleared the codes.
I turned the car on and off a couple times and revved the engine a little, as it seemed to relearn automatically. After a short little drive, everything felt great again.

That's it, this is what mine looked like at 50,000 miles.

awesome

JB'sRogue wrote:awesome

Thanks JB.

Also, wanted to note you can clean the throttle with it still on the car if you want; and since I cannot edit my original post this DIY is at your own risk

Thank you for this awesome post. I cleaned the MAF sensor yesterday and the car accelarates better now. Removing the sensor was painful. I used a 7mm wrench to unthighten the screw on the back.

I think I won't touch the throttle body for now. It seems tricky...

I just wanted to share my results of the throttle body cleaning on a 2011 Rogue. Short story, even with the batter disconnected and cleaning the unit with the connections still attached I had a bad idle after the job and had to do the relearn procedure. It did 'take' though. I'm glad because I had read horror stories elsewhere about units going bad after the cleaning.

Longer story. The Rogue had a very bad 'stumble' when coming to a stop, getting to the point of almost stalling out so I figured it was time to clean up the throttle body. I had previously done the MAF cleaning to get rid of a code and the check engine light. In reading up on this at some sites people were having good luck just loosening the throttle body and cleaning it while still attached to the vehicle. Several said to disconnect the batter while doing this and there would be no after effects.

I did disconnect the battery and loosened the unit and there was plenty of access to the butterfly. It was pretty dirty for sure and I used the throttle body cleaner and a lint free rag and got things cleaned up. I did have to move the butterfly to clean the spots that were the worst, right around the area it sits in in the closed position. I barely moved it though, just enough to clean the area properly. Put it all back together and it ran very poorly with a high and eratic idle.

I did the relearn and it did accept it and now it runs extremely well. I was very concerned that a new throttle body would be needed as I had read happened often to many other folks.

Just wanted to share this with the group. I hope I don't have to clean it again on this vehicle and since it lasted til 124,000 miles the first time I suspect I won't. Some folks have suggested cleaning with the car in drive, engine off and accelerator fully floored leaving the unit in place on the vehicle. I wonder if this would have worked out better and avoided the relearn? In hindsight I think I would have tried that first given the 'issue' I had.

Great info here folks and you have all saved me a ton of money with this Rogue since I was able to take care of the issue with this and my CVT with little to no out of pocket compared to bringing it to the shop.

Hello everyone,

I owned a 2012 nissan rogue, does anyone know how to take the Mass air flow sensor out? I try to remove the intake box, but I can't. Please help! Thank you.

Use the search feature and type in mass air flow sensor. This topic has benn discussed recently. Also there is a FSM avaliable for download for free you can use. Its under the service manual tab at the top of the page.

Ken

qwe5506951 wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 16, 2017 6:54 am

Hello everyone,

I owned a 2012 nissan rogue, does anyone know how to take the Mass air flow sensor out? I try to remove the intake box, but I can't. Please help! Thank you.

Well, you shouldn't need to remove the intake box.


diy-throttle-body-control-maf-sensor-cl ... 88458.html

Topic title revised.

--------> READ BEFORE CREATING NEW THREAD! <--------
2. USE THE CORRECT TITLE: That means, make sure your title has the topic at hand. Don't title something: "I have a question" or "Small concern" or "Rogue issues" or "Help!". Instead title it: "Tire tpms question" or "Rear bumper paint issue".

Thanks, I found the sensor but the 2 screws are not Phillips but a flat surface. no groove for a regular screwdriver. My vehicle is a 2010 Rogue. Hard to fit a wrench in there and the size of the head don't seem to be metric nor English?

I was throwing a MAF code so figured I might as well just clean my MAF, reset the code, and see what happens before going into any sort of troubleshooting. Now, perhaps it's the lack of sleep from a newborn but on my 2011 the MAF would not come out without removing the airbox itself.

Every time I would lift the MAF out of position it would hit the car (the metal part under the plastic cowl piece). There is little room to "maneuver" it because the slot it sits in is fairly tight around, but even trying different ways I could not get it out. I'm wondering if there has been something that changed since the pic's posted in this thread? I just assumed it would come straight out.

The FSM seems to indicate the MAF can be removed with it in the car which baffles me even more (as after reading that I went out and expected it to be a 5 minute job so didn't even pull my car into the garage). So I just wanted to throw it out there to see if I'm just that sleep deprived and someone has done a 2011 (or newer I guess) with everything in the car.

I'm not sure if much looks different from the pictures - mine does seem more towards the firewall but that could strictly be the angle.

The TBs likely show issues when you get some solvent on one end of the throttle shaft to then run up inside your electronics. With the unit off car simply hold it with the electrical up and no issues.

I use carb cleaner, TB cleaner, MAF cleaner, all the same product except just different amounts of oil and VOC to make them dry up slower or faster, I used to sell all of them. No issues at all using the 'wrong' product on the wrong part, you just have to be sure the part is dry before putting it back in service, some like said dry slower than others.

On some cars I simply wipe the butterfly edges off with no part removal at all, the only part affecting car running is where the butterfly edge comes close at fully closed, the aircrack there is calibrated and needs to be fully open to run right.

Is this procedure the same for the 2nd gen Rogues? Mine just clocked over 47k this week and I am looking at doing this in the next month or two.

It is difficult to me to take the TB out. And mine is not very dirty. So I cleaned it at its installed position. I also cleaned the MAF. The engine light is on when I started driving my 2011 Rogue. I asked my mechanic friend reset it (read P010?). Now it works well. The OD is 89k, by the way.