2007 m45 catalytic converter

[josejulio]

I have to replace my catalytic converter and im having trouble finding the part for a reasonable price. Please help!! any infiniti compatible with the m45 i could get it in place of OEM? Im new to forum and based off the threads i read already thid forum seem very helpful!!

[EdBwoy]

Definitely one of the most helpful AND mature forums I've visited.

About your catalytic converter, which one out of the 4 cats do you need?

[josejulio]

Definitely one of the most helpful AND mature forums I've visited.

About your catalytic converter, which one out of the 4 cats do you need?

Passenger catalytic converters rusted out and busted

[TDot]

Are you in the NY tri state area?

[josejulio]

Are you in the NY tri state area?

no im in arkansas wish i had the luxury of staying in NY LOL

[EdBwoy]

Rusted and busted? Typically I would expect that from the secondary cats, the ones furthest from the engine.

Or do you mean both your precat (in the exhaust manifold) and the one beside the transmission are damaged?

[josejulio]

Rusted and busted? Typically I would expect that from the secondary cats, the ones furthest from the engine.

Or do you mean both your precat (in the exhaust manifold) and the one beside the transmission are damaged?

Secondary the one thats the furthest. its only one but i figured if i replace one i need to do the other.

[EdBwoy]

Gotcha. Well, in that case those catalytic converters after the last o2 sensors are not monitored. One of the reasons they're there is to further clean up the emissions. You can replace them with the cheapest/ best sized cats you can find. I once attempted to figure out the mesh size and other details on the OEM cats but just decided to get rid of them.

Option 2 as mentioned above is to eliminate them. Now, they do offer some resistance to exhaust flow(which isn't entirely a bad thing), and they also muffle the sound a little. If your local government does emissions testing, then that might be another issue to look out for.

If you really want to go with a Nissan replacement, then the FX45,03-04 M45 and 02-06 Q45 secondary cats would work. They might need a little work on the flanges as some of them were rotated 90 degrees.
I have an 06 M45 that I will be parting out soon, and I haven't decided what I'll need to keep apart from the engine yet.

[josejulio]

Gotcha. Well, in that case those catalytic converters after the last o2 sensors are not monitored. One of the reasons they're there is to further clean up the emissions. You can replace them with the cheapest/ best sized cats you can find. I once attempted to figure out the mesh size and other details on the OEM cats but just decided to get rid of them.

Option 2 as mentioned above is to eliminate them. Now, they do offer some resistance to exhaust flow(which isn't entirely a bad thing), and they also muffle the sound a little. If your local government does emissions testing, then that might be another issue to look out for.

If you really want to go with a Nissan replacement, then the FX45,03-04 M45 and 02-06 Q45 secondary cats would work. They might need a little work on the flanges as some of them were rotated 90 degrees.
I have an 06 M45 that I will be parting out soon, and I haven't decided what I'll need to keep apart from the engine yet.

Thank you very much for that information that was extremely helpful, what you recommend i do and which is cheaper obviously
since my government no longer does inspection.

And let me know what your gonna do with you m45 i also need an oil pan i cracked it also

and do you know the difficulty of replacing the oil pan i never did one before but i believe i can get it done without removing the engine ( As i read before).

[EdBwoy]

This M45 is going to be a donor for my 06 m45 that has a damaged engine. My registered one is the base model but the donor is loaded with all but the reclining seats and rear DVD screen. I wish I could just recondition that one and put it on the road, but let's just say the previous owner sold it "strictly for parts".
So I might end up stripping 2 cars to swap the drivetrain plus interior features.

Oil Pan
Unfortunately what would have been my spare 06 oil pan was cracked during engine replacement (I still have it and was planning to jb weld it at some point). I replaced it with an oil pan from an 04 M45 but that one got damaged when the 2nd engine threw a rod.
The big kicker is I don't see a convenient way to remove it with the engine still in the car. Maybe you could remove the subframe and all this other noise going on down there, but come to think of it, the FSM preferred method of engine removal is to remove it while still attached to the subframe. Maybe you could hold it up with a cherry picker?

[josejulio]

This M45 is going to be a donor ...

Thank you again, I think ima try to remove the pan while the engine is still in the car i read some forums about it some people got it off without removing the engine, they mentioned all you have to do is unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the engine. hopefully this method works wish me luck

[EdBwoy]

Good luck my friend. I am fully in favor of shortcuts. Do you mind posting links to these sources that did the oil pan pull with the engine in the car?

Also, how did your oil pan crack? Was there considerable oil loss?

[josejulio]

Good luck my friend. I am fully in favor of shortcuts. Do you mind posting links to these sources that did the oil pan pull with the engine in the car?

Also, how did your oil pan crack? Was there considerable oil loss?

i believe it was bottom out but it almost looks like someone did it on purpose.
all the oil completely drained out . i tried to post a picture but idk how and i found the thread on here when the guy mention doing the pan while its still in the car.

[EdBwoy]

I hope it was done on purpose with the car off in someone's driveway.

I really hate the position I'm going to take, but being an m45 owner, I'd recommend you pull that engine. These suckers are finicky enough under normal running conditions, so who knows what a few hundred crank rotations with low/no oil will do to your rod bearings?

But also depending on the location of the crack, you could run your fingers in there to see if there are any metal flakes in the little oil that is left... Or pull a valve cover to see if the top end looks oil starved before you sink any more resources into the car.

[josejulio]

when i put the car on jack stands the rest of the oil ran out and it looked fine no flakes or anything it was barely dark.

[EdBwoy]

In that case,
Please keep us updated if you would.

[built2makeit]

Are you in the NY tri state area?

im in NY and have a similar problem, any help?

[TDot]

im in NY and have a similar problem, any help?

There's a shop on Gun Hill road coming off the 95 north. It's less than a minute off the highway on your right hand side right beside a used car dealership. They charge about $400 for each installed if I remember correctly. I dont have anymore details beyond that. That is the ONLY place I've come across that wont say "you need to go to the dealer for cats", and they advertise the fact they do cats on the front of the shop, so it's not like it's some shady business. Now whether thery are good or not I can't vouch for that, just the fact they do it...seemingly legally... and the price.

[EdBwoy]

It's gotta be nice to have a place like that, accessible and willing to do it. Living in small town Iowa, I have been told by several shops that they wouldn't even want to touch my car being that it's an import.

[TDot]

...I believe exit 10.

[EdBwoy]

...

I think ima try to remove the pan while the engine is still in the car i read some forums about it some people got it off without removing the engine, they mentioned all you have to do is unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the engine. hopefully this method works wish me luck

Josejulio, I wanted to catch up with you. Did you manage to pull the oil pan with the engine still in the car? I replaced my engine recently and found that if you jack the drivetrain up high enough, you could probably do it. Access to the 14 or so 12mm bolts would be a pain with the subframe and power steering gear in the way. Then of course, you have to remove the bellhousing bolts. The big kicker is the 2 10mm bolts holding the oil pan back there. When I replaced my oil pan last year, I found that even with the engine upside down on an engine stand, none of my tools could do the job right, and I had to remove the flywheel to gain access and not strip the bolts.

[josejulio]

...

I think ima try to remove the pan while the engine is still in the car i read some forums about it some people got it off without removing the engine, they mentioned all you have to do is unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the engine. hopefully this method works wish me luck

Josejulio, I wanted to catch up with you. Did you manage to pull the oil pan with the engine still in the car? I replaced my engine recently and found that if you jack the drivetrain up high enough, you could probably do it. Access to the 14 or so 12mm bolts would be a pain with the subframe and power steering gear in the way. Then of course, you have to remove the bellhousing bolts. The big kicker is the 2 10mm bolts holding the oil pan back there. When I replaced my oil pan last year, I found that even with the engine upside down on an engine stand, none of my tools could do the job right, and I had to remove the flywheel to gain access and not strip the bolts.

the oil pan was removed while still in the car! but boy was it hell once i got the oil pan off come to find out the hole in the pan was from a rod..... just like you said my friend lol.... but when the engine threw the rod it didn't damage anything internal meaning cylinder walls crankshaft etc. it was like you wouldn't have known unless you removed the oil pan. but currently its still being worked on I have a much more experienced mechanic friend helping me with the job.. what we are trying to do is just basically replace that rod, piston and rings, new bearings and head gaskets, and hopefully that do the trick since this was a unusual rod throw.... first time i ever seen a engine throw a rod and didnt damage anything but the oil pan I guess i got lucky and hopefully i dont have to purchase a new engine and bring this one back to life it only has 77k miles...

[EdBwoy]

That is odd indeed, but if the rod was thrown with no collateral damage, then it's all good in the hood.

Which rod # was thrown?(I'm betting on 8) Did you find the rod or is it gone? Got pictures?

[josejulio]

That is odd indeed, but if the rod was thrown with no collateral damage, then it's all good in the hood.

Which rod # was thrown?(I'm betting on 8) Did you find the rod or is it gone? Got pictures?

I have a couple pictures but I don't know how to upload them and I believe it was the 1st rod when it broke off it broke off so high that you could still apin it and it was missing the wall but how do upload pictures I would love to share them with the forum

[EdBwoy]

To know to post pics, try this:
howto-post-your-images-in-threads-t573706.html
or how-to-post-pictures-using-photobucket-t521110.html
I've posted posted photos for other members who didn't intend on posting many pictures and didn't want to go through the process of setting up accounts in photo hosting sites, so if you're interested I can do that for you.

Sounds like a very lucky failure. My rod was yanked away from the piston with the wrist pin so the piston is wedged into the block at the bottom of the cylinder. Are you pulling the heads to remove the piston & replace the rod

[josejulio]

To know to post pics, try this:
howto-post-your-images-in-threads-t573706.html
or how-to-post-pictures-using-photobucket-t521110.html
I've posted posted photos for other members who didn't intend on posting many pictures and didn't want to go through the process of setting up accounts in photo hosting sites, so if you're interested I can do that for you.

Sounds like a very lucky failure. My rod was yanked away from the piston with the wrist pin so the piston is wedged into the block at the bottom of the cylinder. Are you pulling the heads to remove the piston & replace the rod

yes i am removing the the heads replacing head gaskets also but i do need some information about piston rings.... do you think the m35 rings would be compatible i looked everywhere for just piston rings only one site had them and they sold out so if i could i find me some piston rings without having to pay for a complete bearings rings and piston set this job would be nearly complete... and im about to look into the photo bucket link.

[EdBwoy]

My instant answer is no. The v8 and v6 have different bores, so I would assume the piston ring follows the size of the piston. Have you tried the dealer?

[LIBRILZ]

OP, what did you end up doing?