So I've had an issue with my transmission start recently that's very similar to the one in the linked post. To recap, it has trouble shifting into first, it will "creep" slowly while it gets up to speed, and occasionally it will straight up not accelerate as though it's in neutral. I've pulled the code, and it's throwing P1759.

The linked post also links to a youtube video wherein there is a broken cable fixed by soldering, but that's for a different model car. I've also read that the best bet is to replace the valve body, so I don't know which works best. I'm comfortable trying to solder it myself, however, I'm afraid to make it worse. I also have a job interview coming up, and not a lot of funds, so time and money are both a factor, I'd like to minimize both while also risking as little as possible in term of long term damage. Also, would trying to drive the car as is potentially cause any further damage? I only have this car, and I do still need to do things like get groceries, so parking it for long term is not an option.

I've also checked for TSB but the only relevant TSB applies to the 2003-2010 Infiniti models, so I don't know if that would apply to this car.

Let me know if you guys need any further info, and what you think the best course of action is to fix this issue.

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mac, hey - how many miles you got , and it is the 02 Q45 ? Do you know transmission model # ? You gotta see if there is a "self -diagnostic" transmission procedure (gets direct,solely from the TCM's point of view -so to speak ) , for your P1759 is coming from the ECM's point of view , and yes there is sort of a (gray area?) overlap of TCM's "self-diagnostics" vs. ECM's OBD-II . Gotta get a FULL picture here - one very basic 'test' is(usually now ) IF fluid @ proper level & decent-looking - COLD , do you have at least L1(1st) and Rev. a normal function , and how about warmed-up(if you can )Do you have 1st and Rev. ? Same?

I don't have the transmission model, how can I find that? Also, don't know how to check the fluid level. However, I can try to test the cold and hot reactions right now. I'll edit this reply in a few minutes with results.

As for miles, I'm sitting at just a hair over 206k.

Cold test: Goes into and runs in reverse fine out of driveway, and drives normally for a while. After a couple laps around the block, it starts acting up, after coming to a complete stop, it revs freely as though in neutral before "sliding" into first and driving fine. Gonna keep testing.

Warm test: Same issue, touching the brake has the same effect, it feels like someone riding a clutch then dropping it. Also, after touching the brake, it takes touching the accelerator pedal to get it to get back in, coasting it won't go into gear. Isn't dependent on revs either, it will slot in at low revs or high revs, just needs gas to do so. Haven't gotten the heavy "creep" to happen that feels like someone riding a clutch until up to speed. Also, code is gone, and hasn't come back up yet.

mac,you may have same or similar transmission as in my J30 RWD. Now check this out mine was NOT taken care of by 1st owner, 2nd owner OK , and at about 130kmi my car did similar things to what you describe. Now I'm a mechanic and I did this myself - I see with my own eyes - I do a drain/pan drop/ blow the screen job and NO SH!%$TT there is strands of black coconut looking ,fibrery,hair-like crap all clogging up the creen & around the valve body. An AAMCO guy told me (hard to believe) that the torque converter has Fiber coating somewhere - and can "flake off" ??? That happened because the SECOND time I did the transmission Svc. on this poorly previously maintained car's trans - I only foolishly drained from bolt-plug and just added a new fluid fill only . The CAR , according to the AAMCO guy's theory/explanation, was soooo BEAT that LINGERING PARTICLES of this crap was RAMPANT , and re-clogged virtually everything. So try a pan drop-drain-tork valve-body bolts- new screen- clean the pan&magnet etc. I myself learned NEVER just drain transmission fron plug and refill without FULL PAN-DROP - FILTER Chng.Even like my case where the full job WAS done just 15kmi ago (in trying to be thorough! )

Hrm, I'll look into it. I'd be surprised if that's the issue, I bought this car at 140k miles, and there was only 1 previous owner to took very good care of the car. Anywhere I can get the blown up parts sheet for this so I know what to look for to clean out? I have yet to even replace the fluid on the tyranny as I have no idea where to drain or fill from.

mac, OK all this debris I was talking about PRIMARILY clogged the "screen", and not completely at first - I had weird intermittant going into N feeling and re-engaging upon G's or turns , and luckily I was 3/4 mi home , I would slam the brakes guessing that something floating/ clogging going on and keeping fluid sloshing helped get it home relatively safe. And when observed with the pan down - most pieces were in screen , then a lot in bottom of pan (not magnetic though - not crowding the magnet) , and a little adhering to and hanging off the bottom of valve body - which I brakleen-sprayed off easily. Most importantly I very soon after - like 2 oil change or 9kmi after I dropped pan again to be again"thorough" and the necessary cleanup was now minimal - yet I believe was a necessary check to be sure all crap gone!
Now no parts blowup really needed (but a Nissan or INFINITI CAN lookup your trans # AND show the "exploded view" to you @ counter).Screen has I believe 3 or 4 10mm approx. 2 1/2 " bolts. ALWAYS good to re-tork ALL the valve-body bolts to spec - you'd be VERY surprised they can be "stupidly" loose
With pan down , screen off - SOME mechanics will now take a look at "jumping" any solenoids that are "accessable " to test their action,Using only a FUSED (3-5A max all needed) JUMPER off the battery and I like to "buffer" it with a 1- 2 ohm "power resistor" . Many solenoids and all auto relays can be even "activated" with a VERY fresh 9V battery to really be on the safe side , and w/9v if action looks good you KNOW the full 12V kicks ASZZZZ ! Unlike a relay or fuel injector which just because they "CLICK" - DOESN"T mean they 'deliver the goods' ; when solenoids click , like if ALL of them sound similar - they ARE probably extending the pintle.For more assured positive test you may remove ,temporarily, for testing to OBSERVE the pintle extending.
Lastly trying to get FIRST ,before all the work, if available with your car - a TCM or transmission "self diagnostic" completed to see what from the TCM's point of view is up - in addition to "regular OBD-II" codes which originate from the ECM's processing.
p.s. Driving a car that engages in'n'out of "drive"- intermittantly IS a transmission "killer" !

Alright, I'll see if I can hit up the local Infiniti shop for the view and follow up after taking a look inside. Thanks man.

The closest family member to your transmission is the 2003 M45 one. If we still had access to the factory service manual, it would be able to shed light on a few of your questions:
- how to check the trans fluid
- an exploded diagram of the trans
- how to troubleshoot your code. For this one actually, I'll try to find some links from the M45 subforum of someone addressing a brake solenoid on the REFR05A transmission, same family as yours but this was probably on an M35. Meanwhile go there and search these 3 items, something should shake out: "p1757", "p1759" and "brake solenoid"

Check your gmail btw.

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