2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Post by **Tacoma96** » Wed Nov 27, 2019 2:35 pm

Hello guys, I've been working on/off on a 2001.5 Pathfinder 3.5 Manual Trans w/ odd and ends issues. As for as the head gasket issue the car has 154,000 miles yet it did sit outside in Western PA for two winters without running, then it was handed to me. I fixed the Idle Air Control Valve and the computer that burnt as a result. The car has no history of overheating per the original owner and I've ridden in it countless times. As I'd move the car back and forth across the yard it always had white smoke/vapor behind it as when troubleshooting the idle air control valve and short drives down the street: there would be a pool of white liquid in the tail pipe and now as I've the cat back exhaust removed the right side of the engine with the cats on spews antifreeze out...SO after scouring this site and others, reading the engine removal process...and I've previously changed the intake plenums, valve cover gaskets, coil packs, coil pack tube seals in the metal valve covers, the rear thermostat, fuel injectors and such...I can't see why the heads can't come off while the engine is in the car? I've been turning wrenches on airplanes, and doing my own automotive work such as clutches, timing belts, engines changes and parts on older cars as needed. Can the heads be pulled while the engine is in the car? I do realize the timing chain and water pump, along with the rear timing chain cover has to come off too..is it practical to pull the heads off without pulling the engine? And what approx? would the shop labor rate be too do both head gaskets. Other than really bad gas mileage the car runs good, has a solid frame, and interior and no major rust issues. I appreciate any advice as I'm doing the job covered outside and am considering the time taken to do this vs a shops labor rate as I have all the head gaskets sets and new head bolts and water pump and timing chain kit ( if needed, if the chain guides are worn as the 3.5 maximas are known for chain guide issues)

Post by **IanS** » Fri Nov 29, 2019 7:57 pm

I've never done one in a Pathfinder. But you can do the heads on a Murano 3.5 in the car, so I'd assume the Pathy is no different other than engine orientation.

The big problem is pulling the inner timing cover, it's very labor intensive. Once that's off, the heads are easy.

Post by **rgk** » Fri Nov 29, 2019 8:18 pm

From the Haynes manual that covers 1996-2004 Pathfinders: "Note: Because the coolant pipe which attaches to the rear of both cylinder heads is impossible to remove with the engine in the vehicle, it will be necessary to remove the engine from the vehicle before the cylinder heads can be removed from the engine."

Post by **IanS** » Fri Nov 29, 2019 8:21 pm

I'd bet you could get it off. Getting it back on and sealed might be very tricky. Probably safer to pull the engine if that's what they recommend.

Post by **rgk** » Fri Nov 29, 2019 8:30 pm

They typically know what they are talking about. However, when I looked up how to pull the front timing cover, they told me to pull the oil pans. What?? I just pulled the front two oil pan bolts.

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sat Nov 30, 2019 9:57 am

awesome, thanks for the replies..ie I've seen the crossover pipe dilemma and verified those gaskets aren't leaking when I removed the entire upper intake months ago to get to the intake manifold where the metal swirl valve actuator is,.that's underneath the upper intake plenums. The ball actuator on my engine, a manual, is for the swirl valves, all screws are on the butterfly valves etc. I checked those as a precautionary, as at the time didn't realize the power valve screws issue was on the automatics, but w/ older cars it worth it to check and learn about the engine etc since i was already confused w/ the 2001.5 yr engine..So I have a, from ebay, cleaned intake manifold w/ a fully functioning actuator ball. Mine was shot, the diaphragm inside was shot and wouldnt function nor hold any vacuum..it may not really be needed, but wasnt sure at the time how necessary it was. I'm yet to replace etc and RGK-reply for the oil pan bolts great!..that's good to know.

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sat Nov 30, 2019 10:12 am

Annd..I've read thru the posts on the process of lifting the trans w/ a jack somewhat after loosening the engine mounts to raise the engine just enough to get access to that crossover pipe, i'll dig for those posts later etc,..or maybe thats to actually pull the engine and accessing the trans bell housing top bolts. I"m still on the fence for pulling the engine, the car is at parents house outside over grass- in PA, currently on jack stands and ramps. I might just get a hair in my "buut" and spring for one of those 10x20x8 shelter car ports ($350-would I use it again?!) and tear into it etc. I'm gonna make some calls next week, after weekend and probe for labor only shops to do it!? as I"ve already got the gasket sets and bolts etc...

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sat Nov 30, 2019 11:55 pm

anyone know the timing chain cover
gaskets i'll need? is the set from say AutoZone complete?, such as ive read there are collared o-rings i'll need?

Post by **rgk** » Sun Dec 01, 2019 8:06 am

The front and rear covers are sealed with RTV. For o-rings, your best bet is to look up the OEM parts.

Post by **Tacoma96** » Wed Jan 01, 2020 7:31 am

I'm pulling the engine out today, 3.5 manual 2001.5 Path, I'm unable to locate the flywheel lock tool ie J-50288 Ring Gear Stopper. I'm concerned with keeping the engine from turning while working on it, and whilst the heads are off (bad head gasket)..is this something to be critical about or not aside from removing the crank pulley which I'm confident I can do without the flywheel locking tool..any suggestions will be appreciated

Post by **Serdriver** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 9:07 am

Hi,

I’m about to pick up a 2001 pathfinder (with 145K) for parts for my other 2001 Pfinder, and the current owner has paperwork from a repair shop saying the right cylinder head gasket is leaking. I don’t smell or see coolant near the head gasket, but per the owner she needs to regularly add coolant. Can you help me? How can you tell if is that rear crossover pipe that’s leaking?

If it’s something I can tackle in the driveway (no rush, but can’t pull an engine) it may be worth it to try and save this vehicle. I’ve done the head gasket on a Subaru and I can only imagine the extra work required on such a bigger vehicle/engine.

I’ll be following your replacement, so any updates would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 4:13 pm

ok..sure but YOU HAVE TO PULL THE ENGINE... i dont know how or even if this site can still post pics!?..but I bought a portable car port tent and am doing it outside as I dont have a garage, I laid sheets of OSB plywood on the ground etc..as I already had an engine hoist and engine stand..it's gonna take alot alot of man hours wrenching...meaning these cars are built via the engine and trans together as a single unit are installed from under the body/frame of the vehicle...

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 4:22 pm

half the reason I did this was because i found others..mudders, expedition rebuilds, groups that scoured junkyards for the 5spd manual 4x4 2001 yr model i have that "...." I"m gonna put another hard 100,000 mi on the engine..its the same base engine in the 350Z, yet some have the rev-up motors but I've purchased various gaskets and such from 350Z performance parts sites, apparently the 350Z is a good track day car?..and reliable that people blog on how they R/R- pulled the motor and such..same for a clutch change and the timing chain R/R as well...while you're in and under there "..."..do everything..the timing chain tensioners and the water pump and the clutch and rear main seal etc..ahh let me share something with everyone..my chain tensioner plastic guides..look almost NEW!..it's not an Altima nor Maxima etc..

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 4:38 pm

oh I've read on here from same situ..spare engine and car for parts..apparently a 4x4 engine is not compatible with a RWD non 4x4 even manual tranny..I can only project its a diff drive train and thus uses diff engine set up and such..I'm not an auto mechanic but it is "20 yr engineered" AND THUS..2001 was a go between for the generation of models ie the R50 model yr range with the 3.5 manual and then the automatics..staaay awaaay from the auto..just what I've read and deduced from the research I've done..ie see the previous post regarding the interest globally to find a manual 4X5 5spd tranny V6 3.5 engine..ie mine has the metal valve covers thus you can R/R the spark plug hole seals on the valve covers that leak and can short your coils etc..vs buying $ plastic valve covers.. R/R the U-joints too as yep gotta pull the drive shafts too to separate the tranny from the engine cause you have to lift the engine off the mounts to raise it up so the rear metal water pipe that connects to both the rear of the heads can clear the firewall..maybe not pull the motor all the way..but by pulling the motor..you dont have to manage removing the CATS catalytic converters to get to the exhaust manifolds..NOR "manage" a broken exh mani broken 20 yr old manifold studs..see it's 20yrs of heat and corrosion I was LUCKY..i didnt break any exh. mani studs and the engine mounts ARE ACCESSIBLE when the engine is pulled and raised out of the engine bay..I'll post pics or send me a private msg..I show you my pics OF WHAT AND HOW AND WHY TO DO THIS...it's not complicated juust figuring out and skinning knuckles seriously..skin and blood were left on some hose clamps and places as well..

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 4:51 pm

oh sorry man,..its the head gaskets for sure!!!!..had dealer CONSULT program to a code scan etc..all random stuff..all over the place..sensors triggered everything..cause they're wet with coolant and fuel..confuses all the coils, all the O2 sensors continually..so I removed the exhaust, leaving the CATS on..the engine spitted coolant out,..check you oil and run the engine idling for ten plus minutes..I had a white pool build up in the tail pipe..same as yours..driveable but head gaskets just not blown yet..AND DO NOT..DO NOT use the head gasket sealers..sure they do work..but think of the engine coolant flow and head design of the pathfinder V6 and having TWO thermostats and a rear water pipe between the heads on the rear, and the temp sensor and temp sending unit below and behind the intake plenums..that you cannot see at all..versus a small four banger engine...yes you can do this in a driveway..but it'll be a big job and require an organized and controlled area..ie laying out your timing chain system and heads and all that needs to be kept in exact order..and the engine is RTV'd together..the metal timing chain case cover, front and rear are RTV's together, and RTV'd to the heads and the cam caps that house the front cam bearings and the intake cam solenoids are all RTV'd together..no big deal, just uses RTV as a gasket..BUT all that RTV has to be removed, scraped and cleaned off clean so the new RTV can seal and adhere properly..holds that critical oil psi in for your cam solenoidS timing and the timing chain tensionsors rely on that oil psi as well..simple, juust need to see how its done..use Haynes, Chilton, and the FSM off this site AND watch tube vid of the 3.5 engine in the Maxima and Alitima 3.5's..same engine..just mounted sideways in the engine bay AND they done have a front diff IN THE WAY..

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:32 pm

: DD6D9BD1-39C3-4E1C-A955-9BF0AE622949.jpeg (38.17 KiB) Viewed 3894 times

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:34 pm

: oil gallery gaskets

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:37 pm

: oil gallery gaskets; 4C833DE4-679B-43AA-8DC4-B3A274644073.jpeg (36.88 KiB) Viewed 3889 times

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:38 pm

: oil gallery gaskets info 2nd try

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:52 pm

: 4FA6E772-DF9F-4661-B0B5-06B2CAC852B8.jpeg (39.54 KiB) Viewed 3869 times

Post by **Tacoma96** » Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:43 am

SerDriver: I've only breezed over these posts etc, I was clarifying WHY the eng needs pulled, maybe maybe a seasoned mech or dealer mech can do another way!?..but I've always read the eng needs pulled "..." and I found out why etc as here and there on off-road enthusiasts site..they method is to raise/lift the vehicle above the trans/eng unti still bolted together, yet separated from the frame and body and the eng/trans unit is lowered onto a cradle etc...so the water pipe that runs between the heads on the rear of the eng has to clear the firewall and even remotely accessing the top two trans. housing bolts that are right underneath the water cross pipe is done by removing the top half of the engine, ie the intake plenums...for example frames are changes in cars by doing the same...amazingly simple in a shop with a lift...disconnect the ancillary stuff and connections then raise the truck leaving the entire frame, engine intact and driveline..just lifts the body up and off..using a lift, the ones used in auto-dealer shops etc..So the ins pays for 40hrs shop rate hrs..they do it in..two-three..

Post by **Tacoma96** » Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:45 am

Coudlnt find the pic of the front diff laying there..it has to be removed, and you're gonna need a 2nd set of experienced hands for alot of this.

2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

Re: 2001 3.5 Pathfinder w/ Bad Head Gasket

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