2000 QX4 engine dies when in gear or in park..with Video!

[Brewcity]

Hey guys...my QX4 just died while I put it in gear about 5 times. It would shake and knock like it was out of gas...then all the dash lights came on. It would start right up again, then once in drive it would die.
It happens when in drive, or reverse. I managed to get it home...it seemed to clear up after the engine ran awhile. If I put it in neutral, and gave it some gas...that seemed to help.
Any idea's what this could be? Thanks for the help.
UPDATE: Replaced the PCV, Engine Coolant temp sensor, Fuel Filter, air filter, and cleaned the Throttle Body and MAS. It now dies when in park as well. It starts, idles at 1500, then down to about 1000, then runs for anywhere between 2 -10 minutes, then dies.
Doent matter if hot or cold. I have a video on page 2 of what it does. Could this be a distributor issue?
Thanks for the help!!!

[Towncivilian]

The "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light isn't lit? Is your fuel filter recent? How about spark plugs? How many miles are on this QX4?

[Brewcity]

The "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light isn't lit? Is your fuel filter recent? How about spark plugs? How many miles are on this QX4?

Nope...no Service Engine light. The fuel filter could probably be changed, not sure how old it is...just bought the car about months ago. There ar 97,000 miles on it.

[Towncivilian]

Yeah, go ahead and replace the fuel filter - there's a guide here.

The spark plugs have a 105k mile change interval, so it might be prudent to change them now. Be sure to use the OEM specified NGK FR5AP-10 plugs.

If you haven't yet, download a copy of the factory service manual here. To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate.

[Brewcity]

Yeah, go ahead and replace the fuel filter - there's a guide here.

The spark plugs have a 105k mile change interval, so it might be prudent to change them now. Be sure to use the OEM specified NGK FR5AP-10 plugs.

If you haven't yet, download a copy of the factory service manual here. To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate.

Thanks so much for the help...and the manual!!
I will replace the fuel filter and clean the MAS as well, and report back.
Thanks again!

[Brewcity]

Well...I cleaned up th MAS and the screen on the housing with MAS cleaner...same thing.
I dies when I put it in gear...any other thoughts?
I did bring it to Advance Auto to read a code, and they said it was a knock sensor on bank one?
Would this cause the car to die? I know where they put tese knock sensors, and I am not looking forward to replacing it if I have to!!

[Towncivilian]

What octane fuel do you run? The only code was P0325 knock sensor? Usually when the KS code is thrown it just signifies that knock is detected.

Try cleaning the throttle body and idle air control valve (guide here). Check the hoses for the PCV valve and replace the PCV valve itself (guide here).

[Brewcity]

What octane fuel do you run? The only code was P0325 knock sensor? Usually when the KS code is thrown it just signifies that knock is detected.

Try cleaning the throttle body and idle air control valve (guide here). Check the hoses for the PCV valve and replace the PCV valve itself (guide here).

Thanks for the advice...I did some searching, and I found that a bad knock sensor shouldnt be shuting the car off (dies) when in gear. I did replace the dizzy cap and rotor as well...no change.
I will do what you suggest tomorrow after work, and report back.
Thanks so much for the help.

[Brewcity]

Oh...I use only 87 octane, and there is no service engine soon light on when this happens.

[Towncivilian]

OK, that's fine, continue using 87 octane only. Anything higher will likely result in reduced performance and mileage.

[Brewcity]

OK, that's fine, continue using 87 octane only. Anything higher will likely result in reduced performance and mileage.

Could this be an issue with the TPS?

[Brewcity]

Hey guys...could a MAS go bad on these QX4's? Just wondeirng if mine is starting to, and hense the problems.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

[Towncivilian]

A MAF sensor can go bad on any car. Put it in drive and disconnect the MAF sensor, see what happens.

[Brewcity]

A MAF sensor can go bad on any car. Put it in drive and disconnect the MAF sensor, see what happens.

OK...what is supposed to happen?
Also...I took it to an auto store, and they pulled a code of P0325.
I looked it up, and it says its a knock sensor (bank 1), but could just be something that is causing a knock, or the connection.
I want to try to eliminate everything before replacing this,as the cost is going to be huge!! Any thoughts...PCV, EGR, Distributer, MAS?
Thanks!

[Towncivilian]

I've already explained the P0325 code in one of my previous replies. Your P0325 code is a side effect of your stalling issue.

The PCV is a $13 part at the dealer, change it out (I linked to its location above). If you can provide your VIN, I'll give you the exact part number.

MAF sensor is a possible culprit, but it would usually throw a code.

Loosen and retighten these ground screws:



To knock loose any carbon deposits in the EGR valve, tap it lightly with a hammer at idle and rev up a bit for a short period of time.

[Brewcity]

I've already explained the P0325 code in one of my previous replies. Your P0325 code is a side effect of your stalling issue.

The PCV is a $13 part at the dealer, change it out (I linked to its location above). If you can provide your VIN, I'll give you the exact part number.

MAF sensor is a possible culprit, but it would usually throw a code.

Loosen and retighten these ground screws:



To knock loose any carbon deposits in the EGR valve, tap it lightly with a hammer at idle and rev up a bit for a short period of time.

Thanks so much for ALL the help with this.
I changed out the PCV valve this evening. I also disconnected the MAS, and the engine died, and made the the service engine soon light come on.
I will tighten down the ground screws, and tap on the EGR as well, and report back tomorrow.
Thanks again!

[Towncivilian]

Try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery terminal for several moments.

[Brewcity]

Replaced the PCV last night, and disconnected the battery for about ten minutes.
Drove to work this morning, and everything seems to be OK...the issues start when the truck is warm, and I do not have a long enough drive to get the car to normal temp.
I will report back if symptoms persist.
Thanks for the help!

[Brewcity]

I unloosened and tightened the 2 ground wires on the intake manifold.
I also tapped the EGR lightly while idle...no change.
I noticed it seems to happen worse when the heater is on...any idea why?
I am running out of options here...anything else I can check?
Thanks for the help and advice..I really appreciate it.

[Towncivilian]

It might be the engine coolant temperature sensor that's faulty. This would usually result in a code, but I guess it's possible for the sensor to get lazy. You can see EC-178 for a diagnostic procedure. If you can provide your VIN, I can provide you with an exact OEM part number should you require a replacement. The part should be relatively cheap, around $25-35 at your local dealer.

Make sure your coolant level is correct in the overflow bottle and is up to the top of the neck in the radiator (check when it's fully cold, obviously). Inspect your radiator cap while it's off according to this TSB.

[Brewcity]

It might be the engine coolant temperature sensor that's faulty. This would usually result in a code, but I guess it's possible for the sensor to get lazy. You can see EC-178 for a diagnostic procedure. If you can provide your VIN, I can provide you with an exact OEM part number should you require a replacement. The part should be relatively cheap, around $25-35 at your local dealer.

Make sure your coolant level is correct in the overflow bottle and is up to the top of the neck in the radiator (check when it's fully cold, obviously). Inspect your radiator cap while it's off according to this TSB.

Thanks...but would this cause the engine to knock and stall?

[Towncivilian]

Yeah, it's possible. If the ECU thinks the coolant is cold when it's actually hot, that can cause such problems.

[Brewcity]

Yeah, it's possible. If the ECU thinks the coolant is cold when it's actually hot, that can cause such problems.

Huh...Ok. Thanks a lot! I'll report back.
I really appreciate the help on this...its driving me crazy!

[Brewcity]

Well...I checked the coolant level in the reserve...it was at minimum...so I filled it to max.
I also changed out the fuel filter...that was a lot of fun! I am going to clean out the throttle body as well and report back.
Thanks for all the help.

[Towncivilian]

I hope you removed the spare tire when you replaced the fuel filter, otherwise you really gave yourself some extra work.

I'm here to help. I hope we can solve your problem soon!

[Brewcity]

I hope you removed the spare tire when you replaced the fuel filter, otherwise you really gave yourself some extra work.

I'm here to help. I hope we can solve your problem soon!

Boy...I really wish someone told me that before I replaced the fuel filter!!!
Oh well...I'll definitely remember that for next time! Thanks!
I'll report back tomorrow after driving it to work.

[Brewcity]

Well...replaced the fuel filter, air filter, rotor, cap, pcv valve, and cleaned the MAS and the throttle body.
The truck drives better, but it still hesitates when at a stop, and if the heat/AC is on, it still shutters and dies.
I am going to replace the engine coolant temperature sensor tonight. I'll report back.
ANY other idea's of what would cause this condition?

[Towncivilian]

Measure the resistance of the two terminals of the engine coolant temperature sensor. Around 68 degrees F, it should be within 2.1 - 2.9 thousand ohms. If it's out of spec, replace it.

[Brewcity]

Thanks...going to replace it anyway...its $30.00 at Advance Auto.

[Towncivilian]

That works too. Good luck!