2 questions about performance of Q brakes on a 240sx...

[driftin8ez]

Ok i have decided to do the Q brakes for many reason including the fact i can still use my alloy 92 LE wheels. Anyway here is my question. I want to get axxis pads when i do the convertion so should i get the metal masters or the ultimate pads? The metal master seems better suited for performance dailly driving where as the ultimate pads seems to be more track oriented. But maybe i have no idea what im talking about. Also has anyone ever measured stopping distances before and after a q brake upgrade? Here is the parts list im going with.

front Q brake calipers-junkyardfront brembo OE rotors Q- Group buy centerfront Axxis pads Q - GBCRear Brembo OE rotors 240 - GBCRear axxis Pads 240- GBCFront and Rear SS lines - PDM or eBay

Should run me somewhere is the $350- $400 range

[Dori Dori]

I'm a fan of Hawk pads...I run the HPS for daily driving and they work great. Good for auto-x too...lots of initial bite.Tirerack can get them for you.

[driftin8ez]

those pads are a little pricey. I can get axxis pads for around $32 for a set.

[Toahk]

I dont think its more about stopping distance rather brake fade.

[Dori Dori]

Good tires will improve your stopping distances if that's all you're concerned about.

Toahk is right...the primary purpose of most brake upgrades is to lessen brake fade, not improve on stopping distances.

[driftin8ez]

interseting. I will think about that.

[Q45tech]

Almost all [new padded, trued but bedded rotors, with new brake fluid] oem brakes will stop from 80 mph twice [within 5 minutes] before warning up enough to fade materially......should be around 450-500F after the 2 stops in 100 F ambient.

Careful about metallics/semi mettalics in cold winter weather.......try to find an "FF" rated pad.

[Nismo_Freak]

Ok i have decided to do the Q brakes for many reason including the fact i can still use my alloy 92 LE wheels. Anyway here is my question. I want to get axxis pads when i do the convertion so should i get the metal masters or the ultimate pads? The metal master seems better suited for performance dailly driving where as the ultimate pads seems to be more track oriented. But maybe i have no idea what im talking about. Also has anyone ever measured stopping distances before and after a q brake upgrade? Here is the parts list im going with.

front Q brake calipers-junkyardfront brembo OE rotors Q- Group buy centerfront Axxis pads Q - GBCRear Brembo OE rotors 240 - GBCRear axxis Pads 240- GBCFront and Rear SS lines - PDM or eBay

Should run me somewhere is the $350- $400 range

You can get your brake lines from us (http://www.splparts.com) we are a NICO sponsor and our brake lines are $88 shipped within the US. They also are covered to prevent premature wearing of the stainless steel weave and teflon liner. We have them in stock, and if you were to order them off of our website you need to order the BANJO fitting lines for the front and rear.

Some other suggestions would be, one change out your brake fluid. Old hydrascopic brake fluid (Dot 3 & 4 & 5.1) fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere naturally. Water has the effect of lowering the brake fluid's boiling temperatures. This can actually cause a more dangerous form of brake fade because the fluid isn't quickly cooled like the external rotor and pad materials. Cost wise, we carry the ATE Superblue Racing fluid for $16 a can shipped. While you can bleed the system on one can, we suggest 2 cans so that you have extra on hand for when you attend track, autox, or drifting events. We also suggest you change out the brake fluid every year. Also note that ATE Superblue is less hydrascopic in nature than most off the shelf brake fluids.

Another thing we carry that simplifies and vastly speeds up the whole bleeding procedure is Speedbleeders. They have a one way check valve that allows you to just open them and bleed the brakes without constantly opening and closing the valve, so you can bleed the system alot faster and by yourself! Many people think they don't need these, but every person we've ever heard back from after they bought a set loved them. It makes a 2 person 30 minute job into a 1 person 15 minute job. You will need to buy 2 sets of the 10mm Speedbleeders to replace them in all the calipers, they are $14 a set.

If you'd like to order the brake lines, speedbleeders, or the fluid feel free to order off our website (http://www.splparts.com) using paypal, or contact us with the info below:

Phone: 1-866-SPL-PARTEmail: [email protected]

[driftin8ez]

I totally forgot about the guys at spl. I ordered a clutch line from you maybe 2 weeks ago and it is great quality. I think i even told myself i would order the lines from you as well. Forgetfull me. I will be ordering the lines from you soon. as for the other stuff i will have to see how the funds are. Keep up the great work SPL.

[driftin8ez]

Ok i got my new plan here it is:Brembo Blank Rotots F&R 240sx $123axis metal Master Pads F&R 240sx $65SPL SS brake Lines F&R 240sx $88

about $290 shippedI hope this improves my braking distances to the point were the tires are the weak point. Any comments on price or parts I picked?

[Nismo_Freak]

Ok i got my new plan here it is:Brembo Blank Rotots F&R 240sx $123axis metal Master Pads F&R 240sx $65SPL SS brake Lines F&R 240sx $88

about $290 shippedI hope this improves my braking distances to the point were the tires are the weak point. Any comments on price or parts I picked?

I really suggest getting some ATE brake fluid, because 1, you'll lose alot of fluid changing calipers and lines, and 2, about 75 - 90% of all cars on the road overlook the brake fluid.

[driftin8ez]

so is $32 realy worth it for the fluid from spl? I was thinking of just getting some stp brake fluid off the shelf. That what i am using for my clutch and it works fine. Are the 240 calipers capable of more than adequete street stopping with the right rotors and pads?

[Dori Dori]

Bleh, get good fluid. It DOES make a difference.

I run Motul RBF 600.

[phenryiv1]

Questions along the lines of the original post- what are the benefits for the 240 converting to the Q45 brakes? What advantages does this conversion have over converting to Z32 brakes?

I ask because I am looking to upgrade my A32 brakes and am looking at options.

[Toahk]

Q45 brakes = dual piston calipers with bigger rotors than stock 240sx one's, z32 = 4 piston with even bigger rotors, its all about brake fade. I mean I can stomp on it and lock up my brakes in the 240 stock, why would you need more powerful brakes if you can use that same threshold before the tires lock to stop it at the same distance... I dont know if im explaining that right, anyways, brake fade!

[Dori Dori]

Well, a larger rotor will also provide more brake torque. Something you'll be happy you have if you ever plan on using race tires.

IIRC, the q45 brakes have the same diameter as the z32's, but less rotor width (28mm?).

phenryiv1, q45 brakes offer an advantage over z32 brakes if you want to use smaller wheels w/ less clearance (like the ones you want to run). Often times, I wish I had gone w/ the q45 brakes instead of the z32 brakes just so I can run some old school wheels.

[phenryiv1]

Since my wheels are FROM a Q45, I am sure that they will clear the calipers.

Where can I check the rotor thickness issue?

[driftin8ez]

ok i got a question. I going to make my spl order today. Which ss lines do i order if I'm going to be keeping my stock 240sx calipers all the way around. will these line work on q45 calipers if i so decide down the road? Also i will be ordering the ate fluid. Is it at all possible to do the whole job on one can. Will i have any left over. I would like to order the speedbleeders but if i have to order two cans of fluid i wont be able to. Thanx as soon as you reply i will order.

[driftin8ez]

well i had a change of heart. I got some q calipers/brakets/ shims from a local junkyard. I got them for $70 and they are in great shape. The pistons move freely and the bleeders valves are not rusted shut. So where should i got to get the q rotors drilled to 5 lug?

[phenryiv1]

Q rotors are already 5-lug.

[driftin8ez]

sorry i'm loaded up on nyquill (spelling?). I ment how do i go about redrilling them to be 4 lug? should i use one hole of the five and drill 3 others to make it 4x114 or should i drill four new holes? any pics of redrilled 5 to 4 lug rotors would be helpfull.

[phenryiv1]

sorry i'm loaded up on nyquill (spelling?). I ment how do i go about redrilling them to be 4 lug? should i use one hole of the five and drill 3 others to make it 4x114 or should i drill four new holes? any pics of redrilled 5 to 4 lug rotors would be helpfull.

Take an old 240 (4-lug) rotor and try lining up one hole. trace where the other 3 holes will be. Now look at the Q rotor and be sure that you feel safe with the amount of metal between the holes that you will be using and the existing holes. Play around with it (use a pencil to mark the temporary holes) before deciding on an orientation. Then use a sharpie to make the final marks and have at it.

Just be sure to step up your drill bit sizes and not try to drill the holes all with one bit.

[driftin8ez]

have you ever done this yourself? Would a normal drill and bit work or should i do i need a press?

[phenryiv1]

I read a write-up a few weeks back. I would recommend a press or a REALLY steady hand.

[driftin8ez]

ok i will report back when i finish te install. maybe 2 weeks:-) ya i'm a broke bastard

[crzycav86]

I just redrilled my z-rotors today. It was very easy.

Basically, line up the 240 rotor on top of the 5-lug rotor. match up one of the holes. Then insert a 1/2" rod. It can be a drill bit, bolt, rod, whatever. You just use it to make sure that the rotors don't play while you're drilling. Then get a small c-clamp and attach the rotors together(so they don't play).

For the drilling, I used a mill. It may be possible to do it with a very steady hand, but I wouldn't trust myself.

Anyway, i just drilled straight through the 240 rotor directly into the z-rotor. After I drilled each new hole, I inserted another 1/2" rod to keep it steady. No drawing circles, no tracing, no risk of screwing it up. I dare say the redrilled rotors fit tighter than the old 240 rotors.

[driftin8ez]

good idea i was thinking of doing something like that.

[candela]

Motul fluid rox, Axxiss pads suck (all of em) compared to Hawks (which you can also get from SPL). Fork teh extra cost out (which isnt much) and get the right stuff the first time.

[Cloud]

FYI, Axxis pads are CRAP. Spend the extra money and get Hawks - HPS if you're primarily street driving, HP+ if you're a race maniac.

I've had 2 sets of Axxis pads fade BADLY on my personal cars, and a friend had a set fall apart on his 240 after a road race.

I've had HP+ and HPS on street cars and LOVE them. The HP+ are noisy, dusty, and don't like the cold, but they're anchors. The HPS are the best street pad I've ever found, hands down.

I get mine through SPL (as well as brake lines) and HIGHLY advise you do the same, as they have the best service and prices I've ever dealt with. My second choice is Edwin at http://www.raceshopper.com - he used to be my first until SPL came into the fray.

[driftin8ez]

ok i dont have the money for hawks right now and luckily the pads are the easiest things to replace in the whole set-up so i'm going with the axxis MM for now at least. Here is my question. I'm ordering them from this website. http://www.importrp.com/ If you navigate to the axxis pads for the q45 they have two kinds for the front of the early 90's q45. here is what each say:

PBR/Axxis Metal Master90-2/94Set comes w/o sensorsFRONT Brake Pad Set

PBR/Axxis Metal Master3/94-96FRONT Brake Pad Set

which are th right ones for going on a 240sx?