1998 Nissan Pathfinder Alternator Replacement ?s

[Alibireason]

Whoo that is a relief. When I saw the oil dripping out while removing the bolt holding the starter I probably turned white thinking my problem was much, much worse. Thank you for clearing that up for me.

I've never used a circuit test light before, so I just want to reiterate what I think you're suggesting:

With the starter removed, I can still test the wire that connects to the solenoid terminal. So I would need to hook the battery back up, have someone else at the ready to turn the key, myself have the circuit test light connected to the neg battery post, and while under the vehicle poke the probe into the end of the solenoid wire and have the other person turn the key. If it lights up while turning the key, the culprit is possibly the alarm wiring or something else outside of the starter. If it doesn't light up, it's leaning closer to the starter.

I'm also going to clean up the starter and have it tested. I'll post the results later today.

I apologize if I've misinterpreted your info, and I appreciate your patience.

[VStar650CL]

The test light is a simple device. If you connect the gator to ground then the bulb will light when you touch the probe to 12V, if you connect the gator to 12V then the bulb will light when you touch the probe to ground. In the case of the solenoid wire, put the gator on ground (anyplace on the engine, trans, or chassis is fine) and the probe on the solenoid connector. When the key is turned to the Start position, it should light up. If it doesn't, the starter isn't the problem (or at least not all of it). Note: If the test light is an LED type with red and black gators, use black.

[Alibireason]

I had replied earlier but I don't see it posted. Oh well.

I took the starter to a Cost Less parts store. The clerk put it on his machine and it blew the electrical breaker twice, though he said it passed before it blew the breaker. Then I went to Oriellys where it passed twice, but the clerk said, and I quote, "Tester usually activates solenoid before motor to test solenoid but when tested it spun the gear slowly upon solenoid test, which I have never seen here in 2 years." he said it turned slowly at first both times before passing the test. I then took it to 2nd Cost Less location and it passed 3 times right in front me with no slow turning of the gear. The clerk mentioned it's amp draw was 45.86. As I told him the issues I was having he mentioned the neutral safety switch and the ignition switch. I also noticed the bolt that holds the nut/wire with the rubber housing covering it wobbled when I touched it. The clerk said it shouldn't be a problem. But it feels loose, like a loose tooth.

My roommate wont be home til this evening to help with the light test. Should I reinstall it and go from there?

[Alibireason]

Ok after I posted the last one yours and mine most recent posts finally popped up. I am a bit confused about the exact solenoid wire. The clerks mentioned light testing with the starter removed and said to put the light into the the inside prong of the plug, Is that the solenoid wire, or is it the wire that connects to the bolt with the rubber housing?

[VStar650CL]

There are only two wires going to the starter. The big one is the main battery supply, the small one is the solenoid wire. Think of it as a trigger. The solenoid is just a big, glorified relay and the solenoid wire activates the relay coil. The other, larger cable is connected directly to battery+.

[Alibireason]

I reinstalled the starter. I had someone ready to turn the key over. I put the light tester on the thread of the bolt that holds down the connection to the battery (the one screwed with a nut and the rubber housing protector covering it.) with the ignition in the on position and it lit up. I had the person try and turn the car over (with everything connected) and I could hear a singular "THUD" or "CLUNK" coming from he starter. I unplugged the smaller solenoid wire and put the probe of the light inside the plug, touching the metal inside. They tried to turn it on and the probe lit up for a few seconds. We tried it twice both with light (no "THUD" tho, I'm guessing due to it being unplugged).

I don't know if this matters but a few days ago the car was starting with most attempts. But the moment I went underneath and tightened (maybe half turn to tighten) the wire that goes to the battery it has not turned on once since.
It makes me wonder what changed from starting most of the time to not starting at all.

I hope this info helps, and just know I appreciate this help, if not for me, but others down the road who run into this same problem and can read this thread. Thank you.

[VStar650CL]

The "thud" you're hearing is the bendix fork inside the solenoid operating. That means the solenoid coil is good but either the motor brushes or the ring contactor aren't. Given the spotty performance on the parts store testers, I'd put my money on the contactor. Either way, time for a new starter.

[Alibireason]

I'll order it and have it shipped. The part store I like to go to either has to order it from Northern WA or Cali. I was thinking of going with a remanufactured Pure Energy or Remy, I believe the store has a lifetime warranty on either. I will update once it is installed and hopefully gets the Pathfinder going again.

[Alibireason]

I installed the reman. Pure Energy starter this morning and it fired right up several times. Thank you all for your info! I could not have done any of this without your guidance.

[VStar650CL]

[MisterH]

Congratulations! Glad you didn't have to do any rewiring.

[Alibireason]

Me too MisterH! Alternator/Starter/Battery (O2 sensors as well) all replaced...and I think I'm even getting better gas mileage now. Thank you!!!

[Alibireason]

***UPDATE*** 1998 Pathfinder
Months ago I had replaced the starter, alternator, and battery (with junk yard battery that tested well). After a while it began starting sluggishly if not turned on after a few days. I rarely drive it and just assumed it was the junkyard battery causing the problem given the alternator and starter were new(side problem that could be related: ABS light randomly turns on and off, seemingly coinciding with hesitant low power starts). Two weeks ago the A/T oil temp, battery, and brake lights all came on at once. The vehicle starts and drives great. I read around and saw that it could be alternator causing those specific lights to glow simultaneously. I bought a new battery just to be sure. Since that did not fix it I took it in to have the alt/battery tested. Battery and starter passed but the alt. only read "NO OUTPUT."
With car running the battery is reading 11.8V. With the car off It's reading 12.23V. (12.15V right after turning car off, then about a while later it's back to 12.23 V).
I'm going to remove the alternator and have it bench tested in the next few days.

Has anyone else been in this situation? If it ends up not being the alternator, any ideas what else it could possibly be? Thank you in advance!

[mdmellott]

If it ends up not being the alternator, any ideas what else it could possibly be? Thank you in advance!

Whether it's the alternator or not, I think that Trilock security device should be removed. It may very well be the cause of everything going wrong.

[Alibireason]

I'll look into how to do it, and possibly try it myself when it comes time for it. Thank you.