1994 q45 will not shift into 3rd or 4th gear

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djwarner
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Apparently you have a snap action version with a twist setting handle. As you turn the handle CCW a scale will be exposed on the shank. It will have a straight line running down the shank along with numbers like 10,20,30,etc. This is tens units for setting purposes. The 0,2,4,6,8 around the circumference of the handle is the ones units.

For example, to set the wrench to 75 inlbs turn the handle until the 70 line is exposed and the 80 line is not. Then continue to turn the handle until the straight line running down the shank is between the 4 and 6 on the circumference of the handle. Once set, attach the socket needed and apply torque until you hear a click.

One thing, though - torque can be specified in inch pounds or foot pounds - to convert from one to the other multiply or divide by twelve as needed.

If you are reading the FSM, they will show torque specifications with a symbol of a wrench on a nut. On the page I have the wrench is black on a white background or white on a black background. Following the symbol is xxxx ( xxx xxxx ).

A typical entry next to a white wrench might read 49.0-61.8 (5.0-6.3 37-45).
49.0-61.8 is the required torque range in Newton-meters (N-M).
5.0-6.3 is the required torque range in Kilogram-meters.
37-45 is the required torque range in foot-pounds.

If the wrench symbol had been black on a white background, the 37-45 would be in inch-pounds.


q45ness
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Thanks again for everything!! I am going for all the marbles this week. I will provide a detailed post of the results. :gapteeth:

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Lokim
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:ohno:

q45ness
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:werd: Please advise as to how many "inch pounds" I should set this thing to do the transmission pan bolts and the valve body bolts. I just wanna be sure. It seems as if it is asking for a measurement that is lower than this wrench (120 inch pounds). I will be using brake parts cleaner and a paper towel to clean the pan. Thanks again. (the song eye of the tiger playing in the background)

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Lokim
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My rule of thumb is to get all the pan bolts finger-tight, then use a 1/4" ratchet to give an additional 1/4-1/2 turn. It works if you don't have the proper range torque wrench...

q45ness
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The valve body is out. I am looking at the solenoids now. Two springs fell out, one was bigger than the other. I assume the bigger one is for the bigger piston. It fell so quick I couldnt see. I assume the springs go into the recessed pistons. Other than that, so far, so good, trans pan had no metal in it, just a little gooey, fluid looked good. I lost a ton of fluid. I am gonna do the external filter and come back and check to see what you guys say. Please advise on the springs. Thanks.... :ohno:

q45ness
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make that three springs! One is fatter and much shorter than the other two. One of the pistons is fully pushed out, so it can't be that one. Also, there are three hoses going to the external filter and the magnafine only supports two hoses. How should I plumb the magnefine. Please advise so I can button this thing up!!!

q45ness
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Calling it a day! about 4 hours of fun fun! I got the solendoids installed and the transmission pan staged and clean and I will re assemble tomorrow. Those springs are gonna be fun to install. Is there a trick to em? Or should I just slap em in there and put the valve body back in? I will check this site in the morning before I start, any advice will be greatly appreciated. Right now...its Miller time! :spitout:

OwnerCS
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q45ness wrote:make that three springs! One is fatter and much shorter than the other two. One of the pistons is fully pushed out, so it can't be that one. Also, there are three hoses going to the external filter and the magnafine only supports two hoses. How should I plumb the magnefine. Please advise so I can button this thing up!!!
I've got the opposite problem. Two out lines on the filter to only one fluid line.

I think would stop by my local (Ace for me) hardware and get a brass 5/16 barbed end T. If they only had the T then I would get brass barbed ends and connect to a brass T. I recently purchased some brass connectors for some ATF line work I'll do in Phase II..

Qship usually has some good ideas for this type of situation.

q45ness
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I cant tell which hoses are going in and which ones are going out. I need to know how it flows to install the magnafine as well. Please advise... :ohsnap

OwnerCS
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The two nipples are for output..

Here's a thread with pictures and explanaiton.

post5859866.html?hilit=filter#p5859866

q45ness
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Thank you sir! I am about to go out and finish the deed. Does it have to be brass? I could probably get a plastic one from auto zone. :gapteeth:

OwnerCS
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That depends on the temperature the plastic has been designed to handle. I remember seeing some ATF fluid hoses and fittings near the external coolers in Autozone but I can't remember if there was a T in that display.. I prefer metallic fittings for
engine fluids that travel at higher temps.. But then you know how I like to over keel engine stuff.. :-)

q45ness
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Its better to be safe than sorry. Thanks for the quick reply! In fifteen minutes I will be out there again; getting high on brake parts cleaner, swimmin in ATF. I just hope I put those springs back in correctly :ohno:

q45ness
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Image Please advise as to the positions of the springs. This is my guess the piston w/o the spring is all the way down. Thank you. I broke the existing gasket and I am about to pull the valve body apart to replace it. I also broke a solenoid connector, I plan to solder and cap it. I plan to just set the springs on the valve body and try and place it in there. Easier said than done... :facepalm:

q45ness
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Gasket replaced! Thanks Lokim, that old gasket was falling apart in my hand. Valve body installed. Very difficult. I practiced with the broken gasket still on the vb to get a technique using one hand to hold the springs, the other to put the vb in place. I put the springs in wrong first, but the vb would not go in there. So I am sure they are right. Difficulty 1 to 10=7. Not easy

My last problem is that I broke the connector to the torque converter lock solenoid. There is only one wire going to it. I am gonna cap it off, but I am worried about heat.

Please advise a proper rig to fix the wire....Thanks for all your help...Its all downhill from here!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

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goody90q45
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Three cheers for your willingness to repair this transmission yourself and Ditto to Lokim for all his helpful advice. You're in uncharted waters on this forum and far beyond most of our skill levels. Hopefully the repairs will solve the shifting problem.

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Lokim
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I am glad to hear things are coming along for you. I think I speak for all of us when I say good luck, and my fingers are crossed for you! :dblthumb:

q45ness
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Thanks you guys! The project would have a 10 difficulty without you all. Day 3. I would have been done yesterday w/o the springs screwing up the gasket/harness connectors when I tried to reinstall. That valve body was like a jigsaw puzzle, the service manual and pictures came in handy, but it still took all day. I guess I will call auto zone about the connector. One would think it that a power wire would have to be completely covered to keep the transmission fluid from shorting it out. Closure would be nice, but I am not about to duct tape it at this point. I've made it too far and the hard parts are over. :biggrin:

q45ness
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After being duly advised. I solved the connector prob with a "posi-lock" connector. NAPA part #784208. Thats is...here goes everything!!!!! :ohno:

q45ness
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I got it all back together and it failed :cry: High clutch is out. 196k new transmission time. I dont have the cash right now, but it still drives...no 3rd or fourth gear still Kids, dont try that at home!! :facepalm:

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Lokim
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Bummer man! I feel for ya. There's a guy up here near Seattle with a transmission for sale w/ ~85K for $120. Here's the CL ad:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/2094119941.html

See about it. If you PM your location, I may be able to piggyback it onto a freight shipment via my sister's employer...

240RB1
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Hey sir,this is an old thread I know but do you mind explaining which spring went where after you figured out that the way you had them set in the picture didn't work?

q45ness
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The valve body would not go in if they were not installed correctly since they are different lengths.... DONT FORCE IT.. I got a workout trying to figure it out. It's a tough job on your back. I am still rolling with just 1st and 2nd gear, and it drives fine around town. My car does 80 in second. All new injectors, ks, hoses. I just found somebody with a transmission and will install all parts and labor for 700 cash, 30 day guarantee, why not? Im gonna do it in a couple of weeks.....

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Unnatural1
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Car: 1994 Infiniti Q45

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I am in the exact same boat, no 3rd or 4th gear. I suspected the high clutch assembly after checking the basic electrical items, fluid level and condition. I pulled the transmission and ordered the IPT master rebuild kit. I disassembled everything this week and today confirmed my suspicion. The high clutch piston seals are leaking. But upon disassembly of the clutch pack I found 3 or 4 clutch disks worn to the metal. All the heat metal on metal contact would generate fried the seals, I'm thinking. I'm not sure how common this is in these RE4R03A's but I briefly looked for a good used transmission too.

q45ness
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I've been driving around town with just 1st and 2nd gear for about a year now, but I never drive it on the highway. lol I pwned a couple of stangs too. I'm getting a used transmission installed this week, but Im gonna keep my core. Is that IPT kit hard to do?? Are there any online resources to help? How much did it cost?

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Unnatural1
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I might have gone with a used transmission if I could have found one with significantly less mileage than mine (178k miles). But the few I did find around me had around 100k on them for $400-500. I decided to spend $550 on the IPT rebuild kit instead. I'm also having them ship me a high stall torque converter while I have it apart. You definitely want to do something with the torque converter when you rebuild or replace a transmission. The TC holds a large percentage of the total ATF in the transmission and anything that has contaminated the ATF has got to be in there too. It's impossible to get all the ATF out of the TC without a rebuild. Basically make sure you get one with your used transmission. Usually a salvage yard sells them with the transmission.

As far as the IPT rebuild kit, yes it is a big job. I wouldn't recommend the average do it yourselfer try it. There are one or two special tools required as well. You need to have basic knowledge of how an auto trans works and experience working with transmission internals. But, you are going to have a useable core and nothing but time to learn if you are really interested. IPT has a few videos on YouTube, mostly related to non Nissan transmissions. The factory service manual is probably your beof. source of info for disassembly and assembly of this transmission. You can download it if you Google it. Do that and read through the AT section. There is nothing magical in an auto transmission. It's just a bunch of very precise and intricate parts.

http://www.importperformancetrans.com

q45ness
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Car: 1994 Q45

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As soon as mine failed I dropped the pan, changed the filter and did multiple fluid exchanges, added lub gaurd red, lucas, put some cheap wal mart dextron 3 in there and I can barely feel it shift from first to second, especially when Im nailng it. This used one has 118k miles, tc included, $700 bucks installed, 30 day warranty. $125 flatbedded to shop. I don't ask for much, but please, oh please, PLEASE WORK!!!!!! I guess those clutch plates get old, like on a stick shift. Can you buy just the high clutch rig??? I will be able to keep my core to play with!!! Thanks for the advice!!

q45ness
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I thought the "wait 2 minute" then drain method outlined on this forum was very successful. My trans fluid is pinker than, umm a lot of pink stuff!! My fluid was brown from clutch pack failure (I guess???). Im going to put the cheap wal mart s*** in this transmission, bring it home, BG flush it, external cooler it, lube gaurd it, put M1 or valvaline in it and change it once a year. The guy who is doing the swap knows he won't get paid untill I test drive it.... :)
1994 q45 199k miles...

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Unnatural1
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I'm thinking you can buy the individual internal pieces, such as the high clutches, reaction plates, and seals through Nissan. A part store might have a listing but will need to special order everything. I just received the IPT kit today and it includes everything, even the filter.

Seems like a pretty good deal on your used transmission with install. Should last you a while and you'll have restored the use of 3rd and 4th gear. :bigthumb:


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