19" rims or 20" rims

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
jmcavalieri
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I'm debating new wheels... On the 19" rims it's asking me this:

5x100 - 5x4.5/114.3 455x112 - 5x4.5/114.3 45

Which bolt pattern is it?

Thanks!


philipa_240sx
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The Rogue's bolt pattern is 5x114.3 and the hub bore is 66.1mm. Ensure you purchase hub centric rings to match as it helps align and support the wheel.

Hmmm, sounds like the wheels you are looking at are a multi-bolt pattern. Not a big fan of this arrangement.... IMHO it ruins the look of the wheel and usually requires the use of quirky tuner style lug nuts and a special socket to tighten them.

Don't forget to look at our wheel and tire guide which lists all of the possible wheel and tire size combinations:

zerothread/293478

jmcavalieri
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These are the rims I was looking at:

http://www.elementwheels.com/p...85blk

Will these work? I noticed on tirerack.com that any rims you purchase come with the hub centric rings, from what I see this elementwheels.com does not include that.. I just can't stand the rims at tirerack.com.. They're ugly!!

Any other suggestions of websites to order good rims?

sileung
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Those are some nice looking wheels! what colour is your car?

jmcavalieri
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wicked black. I'm thinking of doing black with red stripe given the brakes being painted red. still debating.

philipa_240sx
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jmcavalieri wrote:These are the rims I was looking at:

http://www.elementwheels.com/p...85blk

Will these work? I noticed on tirerack.com that any rims you purchase come with the hub centric rings, from what I see this elementwheels.com does not include that.. I just can't stand the rims at tirerack.com.. They're ugly!!

Any other suggestions of websites to order good rims?
Yup, those will work. They are dual bolt pattern with 5x100 and 5x114.3 (5x4.5 = 5x114.3 metric). The offsets are bit off as the Rogue is +40mm... but this should not be a big issue. Wheel bearing life, handling, etc should not be affected.

In the fine print, they only include hub centric rings for complete wheel and tire packages on vehicles that use bolts instead of lug nuts.

Quote »Each Wheel/Tire Package includes free lug nuts. Hub rings will only be included free for vehicles using bolts instead of lug nuts. Bolts are not included free of charge (mostly for European applications).[/quote]

Their reasoning is lug nuts 'should' center the wheel. I can tell you from personal experience that this will never work. It is still possible to mis-align the wheels when lug nuts are used. The resultant vibration from non-centric wheels will not be very comfortable.

Do yourself a favor, drop them an e-mail and ask if you can purchase hub centric rings that will fit the Nissan hub bore of 66.1mm. I'm sure they can accommodate you for minimal cost.

You will also need appropriate 'tuner style' lug nuts for these wheels. Nissan's use 12x1.25mm lug nuts (which are different from Honda and Toyota's at 12x 1.5mm). These usually require a special socket/adapter to install. Don't go cheap here as poorly made ones will strip, the adapter will break, and they'll rust within a year. Companies like McGard makes some very high quality lug nuts... the SplineDrive series is specifically made for tuner wheels:

http://www.mcgard.com/Home/Aut...gNuts

sileung
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sorry to sound niave, but what is/are hub centric rings and what do they do?

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casperfun
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Wheels, Tires 19x8.0 +40 Privat Zentralle, 245/45-19 Advan S.4. high performance all-season tires
Image
Image


Thanks to EddNog!!

philipa_240sx
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sileung wrote:sorry to sound niave, but what is/are hub centric rings and what do they do?
From our site sponsor, tirerack.com:

Quote »The centerbore of a wheel is the machined opening on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of a vehicle. This hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned as the lug hardware is torqued down. Keeping the wheel precisely centered on the hub when it is mounted will minimize the chance of a vibration.

... Some wheels are designed to fit multiple vehicle models and will use a centering ring system to reduce the bore size to match the hubs of different vehicles. These rings keep the wheel precisely positioned as the lug hardware is torqued down.

Some wheels are non-hubcentric by design. These are known as lug-centric wheels. With these wheels it is critical to torque the lug hardware with the vehicle on jack stands, off the ground. This allows the nuts or bolts to center the wheel and torque down without the weight of the vehicle pushing them off center.[/quote]

Personally, I do not like lug centric wheel designs. I had them on my 240SX and on more than one occasion I had vibration issues. This required re-installation of the wheel and test drive at highway speeds to make sure it was centered again. I did not enjoy doing it and ever since have used hub centering rings.

It's important to note that nearly ALL OEM wheels are hub centric. Why do you want to go a step backwards from what the mfg. provides?

sileung
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Great help as always philipa!

I never realized there was so technical stuff involved in buying wheel such as offset and hubcentric. This gives me a better idea of what to look for in the future when it's time for new wheels.

blanca
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will changing wheels affect the warranty i like the ones on casperfun

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rgeldr164
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These are the ones I have on mine they are nice rims and fit the look very well granted they are only 18's but that as big as I wanted to go.

http://www.spoiledcars.com/rims/KASINO/Jack.asp

philipa_240sx
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blanca wrote:will changing wheels affect the warranty i like the ones on casperfun
This is a common question. Typically, any properly installed aftermarket component such as wheels should not deny you warranty coverage. However, if the component is found to be the cause then Nissan can deny warranty coverage.

Example 1) A poor quality wheel (ie out of round, wrong offset) is installed putting undue strain on the suspension joints or wheel bearings causing them to fail. Nissan would likely deny the claim.

Example 2) A high quality aftermarket wheel is installed and a suspension component fails. The wheel was not at fault as it's in good condition, rather it was the result of a defective suspension component.

Read pg 6 of your warranty booklet:

Quote »WHAT IS NOT COVEREDDAMAGE, FAILURES OR CORROSION DUE TO ACCIDENTS, MISUSE OR ALTERATIONS

This warranty does not cover damage, failures or corrosion resulting from:...■ Alteration, tampering or improper repair.■ Installation of non-Nissan approved accessories orcomponents.■ Improper installation of any Nissan approved or aftermarketaccessory or component.[/quote]

jmcavalieri
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I ordered the Tenzo Tenspec rims in 19" and four 235/45ZR -19 Yokohama ADVAN Sport.. I was going to go with 20" but didn't find a rim I liked so I went with the ones I liked and currently are 2" bigger than my stock 17" rims.. Let's see how these ride...

As long as everything goes right, I will be selling my stock rims.. They're in good condition, no scratches or anything at all--if anyone is interested in 17" stock rims, LET ME KNOW! PM me for details, I'll be open to offers!

Got my tires in the mail!! Now just waiting for the rims!
Modified by jmcavalieri at 12:10 PM 3/28/2010

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Tommy Joe BLUE
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Has anyone put 20" wheels or 22" wheels on their Rogue yet? What is the difference in ride quality and handling/steering response. I am interested in 20s and i would like to be prepared.

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Tommy Joe BLUE
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EDDNOG we have the same color. Where did you find the chrome door and mirror fittings?

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EddNog
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Tommy Joe BLUE wrote:EDDNOG we have the same color. Where did you find the chrome door and mirror fittings?
This is the place.

Be careful ordering the door handle covers; make sure you read the description carefully, because they carry both kinds, the faux-chrome, molded plastic ones (the ones I have and prefer) and the metal ones.
Tommy Joe BLUE wrote:Has anyone put 20" wheels or 22" wheels on their Rogue yet? What is the difference in ride quality and handling/steering response. I am interested in 20s and i would like to be prepared.
I feel a noticibly stiffer ride with my 19" setup compared to my stock 17" setup, so 20" would be stiffer still (though probably still quite tolerable).

I wouldn't do 22"...the ride quality would be dramatically affected.

-Ed

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Tommy Joe BLUE
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Thanks Edd. You are my new inspiration.

On the topic of ride stiffness. Shouldn't a move from a tire given a 6.9 for ride comfort to a tire given a 9.1 for ride comfort (TIRE RACK) make up for some of the additional ride stiffness caused by moving from 17" to 20"?

That is what a local shop told me. I just want to make sure it is not all BS.

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Tommy Joe BLUE
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Thanks for the link. They must get a lot of business from the people on this forum.

I just found both my birthday and Christmas gifts to myself. LOL.

WOW you guys have all the good stuff. Did you get the wood grain as well? Of all the goodies on that link. That will be the first one to come to papa!!!!!!!!

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Tommy Joe BLUE
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Thanks for the link EDDNOG. They must get a lot of business from the people on this forum.

I just found both my birthday and Christmas gifts to myself. LOL.

WOW you guys have all the good stuff. Did you get the wood grain as well? Of all the goodies on that link. That will be the first one to come to papa!!!!!!!!

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EddNog
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Tommy Joe BLUE wrote:Thanks Edd. You are my new inspiration.

On the topic of ride stiffness. Shouldn't a move from a tire given a 6.9 for ride comfort to a tire given a 9.1 for ride comfort (TIRE RACK) make up for some of the additional ride stiffness caused by moving from 17" to 20"?

That is what a local shop told me. I just want to make sure it is not all BS.
While I can vouch for Tire Rack's noise rating, I'm not that sure about ride quality rating, because for one, tire noise level will affect one's perception of tire ride quality (so quieter tires automatically will register to the human sensory experience as riding smoother when they may be the same) and for two, air pressure level will affect ride quality more than choice of tire (given the same amount of air pressure in comparison). I am sure that the rating on Tire Rack has merit when we're comparing tires with a large number of reviews since a higher average will definitely indicate a better ride quality, I can't say with certainty that a 6.9 ride quality rating versus a 9.1 on tire rack indicates solid proof of difference in ride quality--at least, not with certainty that it will (or won't) make up for such a drastic reduction in tire profile.

-Ed

PS No wood grain here; I'm not a fan of dashboard overlays, and would only accept high-quality replacement pieces, which nobody makes for the Rogue.

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Tommy Joe BLUE
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The 20s just came in and the tires do not look like they have much of a sidewall at all. I am already beginning to regret this decision. My wife will not allow me to hear the end of it. Now that I have ordered the wheels and they are in the shop the guy is telling me that the new wheel assembly will be 14 lbs heavier than the old one (41 - 55). So that would be an additional 56lbs.

I guess my main question would be do you think that the car is going to drive sluggish with the additional weight? Or would the increased rim percentage of the wheel assembly allow for the vehicle to be more responsive as well and counteract the reduction in responsiveness due to the wheel assembly’s increased weight?

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harryg
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^ any pictures of the rims???what color is your rogue?

Ride quality is going to suffer, but handling should improve somewhat because of the small sidewall...regarding the weight of the wheels I dont know how the rogue will respond because it does not have much Power, but it shouldnt make a big difference

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EddNog
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Tommy Joe BLUE wrote:The 20s just came in and the tires do not look like they have much of a sidewall at all. I am already beginning to regret this decision. My wife will not allow me to hear the end of it. Now that I have ordered the wheels and they are in the shop the guy is telling me that the new wheel assembly will be 14 lbs heavier than the old one (41 - 55). So that would be an additional 56lbs.

I guess my main question would be do you think that the car is going to drive sluggish with the additional weight? Or would the increased rim percentage of the wheel assembly allow for the vehicle to be more responsive as well and counteract the reduction in responsiveness due to the wheel assembly’s increased weight?
While acceleration will experience minimal change, the increased unsprung weight will affect grip and handling over uneven or rough pavement or unpaved paths. While the reduction in sidewall height will improve steering responsiveness to a certain extent and also slightly reduce dive/squat/lean, the tire tread also has a significant effect on steering response and on-center feel, and I'm pretty much completely sure you did get identical tires as stock at that wheel size.

Exactly what tires (brand, series and size) did you get? Also, could you please take pictures of the car? I expect your ride will be quite a lot stiffer compared to stock, but if you're lucky at least you'll have more grip and more responsive handling (at least in the dry) compared to stock as a benefit for the...losses.

-Ed

philipa_240sx
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EddNog wrote:I expect your ride will be quite a lot stiffer compared to stock, but if you're lucky at least you'll have more grip and more responsive handling (at least in the dry) compared to stock as a benefit for the...losses. -Ed
Tire grips depends on a lot of factors. At a certain point it becomes a law of diminishing returns...

Heavier low profile wheels and tires will not respond quickly to ruts and bumps. As a result, the tire 'bounces' more and loses grip. A secondary problem is brought on by very short sidewalls... it does not allow the tire to flex enough to maintain contact with the road. In effect you end up riding on the outside edges while cornering.

Funny, the trend towards big rims and low profile tires is the exact opposite to what done in racing. For best grip and performance you want the smallest diameter wheel (that will still clear the brakes) and the widest tire. I used to race, and none of us ever ran anything bigger than 16's or 17's. And that size was dictated by the brakes... we would have liked to go smaller!

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EddNog
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philipa_240sx wrote:
Tire grips depends on a lot of factors. At a certain point it becomes a law of diminishing returns...

Heavier low profile wheels and tires will not respond quickly to ruts and bumps. As a result, the tire 'bounces' more and loses grip. A secondary problem is brought on by very short sidewalls... it does not allow the tire to flex enough to maintain contact with the road. In effect you end up riding on the outside edges while cornering...


That was precisely my point with regards to grip and handling over uneven or rough pavement, or unpaved paths:
EddNog wrote:...While acceleration will experience minimal change, the increased unsprung weight will affect grip and handling over uneven or rough pavement or unpaved paths...
philipa_240sx wrote:Funny, the trend towards big rims and low profile tires is the exact opposite to what done in racing. For best grip and performance you want the smallest diameter wheel (that will still clear the brakes) and the widest tire. I used to race, and none of us ever ran anything bigger than 16's or 17's. And that size was dictated by the brakes... we would have liked to go smaller!
This is absolutely true in a race environment, and I agree; that being said, in a race environment, stiffer spring rates and stiffer damping, plus recalibrated suspension geometry to take advantage of said stiffer springs and dampers allow race cars to take achieve that optimal handling while keeping to the smallest wheels that will clear the brakes. This is my philosophy as well when it comes to racing. On the other hand, I think that with a car driven on the street, those high spring and damper rates aren't liveable, so we have to compromise with much lower spring and damper rates. Additionally, the vast majority of street cars cannot adjust spring or damper rate; what we can do is adjust air pressure and sidewall stiffness. Therein lies further compromise, or the difficulty of achieving an optimal balance.

If only public roads and streets were race track smooth, right? I would be undescribably happy if that were possible!

-Ed

PS What's this forum running off of, an 80386 SX/25 with turbo disabled?!?

philipa_240sx
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EddNog wrote: PS What's this forum running off of, an 80386 SX/25 with turbo disabled?!?
We are having a lot of issues with our forum software and our service provider. We are in the process of migrating the forums to a new system... but we have to sort out the bugs of importing the forum data before we go live.

Just sit tight and be patient. We are just as frustrated as you are with the current forum software and we are working hard to get the move done.

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Tommy Joe BLUE
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I just got the feeling that you guys were racing enthusiasts. I just knew it.

Fear not, As soon as I put the shoes on my rogue's feet I will post pics. Waiting on 2 tires ED. Although I think with the chrome finishes Yours will definitely have mine beat.

Will be running 255/40/20 Yokohama Parada Speck-X. It is rated #1 in the Street/Sport truck All Season category. The OE Continental 4*4 contact (that come with the AWD version) back in 2008, was in the same category at the #13 spot of 14. That is why I chose a tire from that category.

Apparently 255/40/20 is a difficult size to find for this tire as the shop had to order from multiple sources to get it.

PS: If public roads were race car smooth many of us would have to factor in speeding tickets into our monthly budget.

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Tommy Joe BLUE
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I have the same blue color that Eddnog has.

This is the tirehttp://www.tirerack.com/tires/...urvey

As for the rims you will have to wait for the pics. LOL!!! Sorry.

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harryg
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^ you get any pictures yet :)


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