S133P3R wrote:wow. this thread f***ing rocks. do a lot of people in NSW /AUS have this modification done?
not many people do this conversion back in australia there are maybe 10 or so people i know of under going the conversion right now as well its not a cheap upgrade if u want to do it rightbut another way to look at is like this by the time u do a solid lifter conversion, upgrade cam shafts, port work, adjustable cam gears, valve springs, retainers and all that sort of stuff it all adds up to alot of money if u buy a sr20ve cylinder head u dont need to do any of that stuff (i did because i want to rev the cylinder head pass 9000rpm and im looking at making a stupid amount of power so i thought i may as well do all the upgrades now while im going threw a rebuild saves me from having to pull the cylinder head of later on)the cylinder head in standard form will still out match a full worked sr20det cylinder head with all the upgrades even a ported sr20det cylinder head wont be able to match a sr20ve standard head with standard ports
where the extra cost come into play is the ecu and fabrication work there are no after market parts for the sr20ve cylinder heads so every thing needs to be custom u will need a custom plenum camber because the standard sr20ve plenum cambers face the wrong way when u mount them in a rear wheel drive setup the throttle body ends up facing the fire wall so a custom plenum will need to be made also the exhaust flange is slightly different u can modify a sr20det flange to suit but its better to just get a custom made one like i have then there is the ECU and wiring which needs to be dealt with as well
rustest86 wrote:ok, when you say p11 and p12 your refering to the chassis code for the primera, right? how can you tell the difference between the 2 engines out of the car? what are the major visual differences? are those heads easy to come by over there in australia? beacause i couldnt even find any on ebay. reason im asking is im serously thinking about this now, as i think it would be great on a nice mild build, say 260-300hp, and have a awsomely wide powerband.
so far though it looks easy enough and im gonna be watching this thread very closely
yeah P11 and P12 is the chassis the P12 model SR20ve has some upgrades
visually they also look different the P11 looks very similar to a S13 non VCT sr20 engine it just has a neo VVL badge on the rocker cover where as the P12 rocker cover looks different all together and it has the neo VVL on the coil pack cover
P11 SR20ve
P12 SR20ve
there are also some other difference's
the P11 runs 2 solenoid one for the intake cam and one for the exhaust cam and they can switch different times where as the P12 runs 1 single solenoid and both cams switch over at the same time like a honda but u can also tune the p11 to switch over at the same time with ur ECU tuningOR u can use the P12 solenoid on the P11 cylinder head this is wat most people do because the P12 solenoid clears the fire wall and u wont need to use a relocation kit like the one i posted above
the P12 also runs a crank angle sensor where as the P11 uses a dizzy with spark plug leads if ur going to do a cylinder head conversion and ur putting the cylinder head onto a rear wheel drive sr20 block u will need the P12 crank angle sensor because these will clear the fire wall where as the P11 dizzy clearly wont
other differences are the cam shaft the P12 has SR20ve has a bigger cam shaft with more duration and lift the P12 SR20vet has the smallest cam shaft and doesnt have VVL on the exhaust cam which is why i swapped them over for the P12 SR20ve cam shaft the sr20vet also has different rocker arms on the exhaust cam so to use a P12 sr20ve exhaust cam u also need the rocker arms as wellif u check my specs list it says P12 SR20ve cams and sr20ve rocker arms this was how i got the VVL on both intake and exhaust
another change between the 2 are the portsthe P12 has slightly different port angles and it also has different flange plates
the P11 cylinder heads arnt very easy to come by because most wreaking yards dont want to split the cylinder head from the engine block because the blocks are useless with out the heads so u normally have to buy the whole engine ` if ur lucky enuff u can get a cylinder head on its own i was lucky enuff to track one down for a customer and the cylinder head alone cost $1300 AUSa whole engine is worth around $2200they use to be cheaper but the dollar went down i remember i found a whole engine for $1600 B4 the money turned to s*** and became worth less
the P12 sr20ve forget about it they are so rare and very hard to findi couldnt even find one which is why i bought a SR20VET from an X trail (import) and then bought the P12 SR20ve cams from nissan brand new and tracked down a set of 2nd P11 sr20ve rocker arms by swapping these parts over ive converted my sr20vet cylinder head into an exact P12 sr20ve
note: both P12 SR20ve and X trail SR20VET share the same exact casting cylinder head P11 SR20ve and SR16ve share the same casting cylinder head but its different compared to the P12
also ur comment about the powerband not only do these cylinder heads rev harder and make more power its the use-able power band u gain is the best thing about them because they have a low and high setting it makes it so much more responsive down low
also dont forget some modification need to be done to the block for this cylinder head to work some poeple tap a thread into the oil gallery and block it of
i didnt want to go with this option instead wat i did was weld up the oil gallery and then surface milled it flatas u can see in this picture u can barely see the oil gallery any more
bottom left oil gallery
also both the SR20ve from the P11 and P12 have a better oil pump compared to the SR20DET so when doing the cylinder head conversion we swap over to the sr20ve oil pump it also makes it more easy to use the sr20ve oil pump because the timing case cover is bolted to the cylinder head
u will need to do some modification to use this oil pump because the oil pump is part of the timing case cover u need to mill the back of ur balancer to clear the timing case coveri didnt want to mill the back of my balancer so i machined down the gear which drives the timing chain behind the oil pump to space it out and give me enuff clearance
ur luck ive gone threw it all and know wat needs to be done when going threw this conversion the 1st time it was all learning and figuring out wat needs to be done which took up time
Modified by STR8E180 at 11:41 PM 9/15/2009