180sx SR20V build

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
STR8E180
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SPONSORED AND BUILT BY.



Nissan 180SX

SR20DET bottom end with forged and billet internalsSR20VET Cylinder head

SR20VE (20V) neo VVLIntake camLow duration: 228degLow lift 10.10mmLow center angle: 114deg

High duration: 278degHigh lift: 12.00 mmHigh center angle: 114deg

Exhaust camLow duration: 244degLow lift: 8.30mmLow center angle: 106deg

High duration: 280degHigh lift: 11.15mmHigh center angle: 108deg

Engine InternalsSR20VET cylinder headSR20DET bottom endP12 Primera intake and exhaust cam'sP12 Primera exhaust rocker armsSR20VET head gasketHKS cam gearsARP 1/2 inch. Head Stud and NutsSUPERTECH stainless intake valves +1mm oversize 6mm stem SUPERTECH Iconel exhaust valve +2mm oversize 6mm stemSUPERTECH manganese bronze valve guidesFERREA Dual Valve SpringFERREA titanium retainersMachined valve seatsPorted and polished exhaust portsPorted and Polished intake portsCP pistons (86.5 bore / 9.0:1 compression ratio )Custom Sleeves Crower billet rodsARP Main boltsACL Race series BearingsSR20VET Oil pump Modified Oil pick upBalanced crank shaft

Engine ExternalsPOWERTUNE Pod Filter BoxPOWERTUNE Intake PipePOWERTUNE Twinscroll Steam pipe exhaust manifold (port matched)POWERTUNE Screamer pipePOWERTUNE Exhaust system with electronic volume control muffler (varex muffler)POWERTUNE Plenum (port matched)POWERTUNE 100mm intercooler core with custom pipingPOWERTUNE Twin Oil Catch CanTURBONETICS GT-K 500Twin TiAL 44mm external wastegateGarrett Heat BagK&N Pod FilterEarls Braided Oil and Water lines for TurboBlitz Bov80mm Billet Throttle Body28 roll Cooler Oil Filter relocation kitBillet Oil Filter AdaptorNismo Engine mountsStainless Coolant OverFlow bottleCoolant Breather Tank40mm Alloy Radiator with Twin thermo Fan'sSilicon top and bottom Radiator hose's Trust sumpBillet under driven Pulley SetGKtech bash plate

98 Octane Fuel System External SARD surge tankTwin Bosch 044 fuel pumps MSD 1000cc injectors POWERTUNE Fuel Rail malaspina fuel regulator Solid lines with Earls fittings

Race Fuel System POWERTUNE Fuel CellPOWERTUNE Fuel RailTwin Bosch 044 external Pumps MSD 1000cc injectorsSARD fuel regulatorSolid lines with Earls fittings

Nitrous System NX Nitrous KitNX Bottle Warmer

Ignition system AEM Pencil Coil'sM&W CDI IGNITION SYSTEM

Management Haltech E11v2

DriveTrainR33 GTsT Gearbox with SR20 BellhousingOS Giken Fly WheelOS Giken Twin plate Brass button ClutchPOWERTUNE billet cross memberNismo Gearbox MountR33 GTR Vspec 1 piece TailshaftFull GTR Vspec rear end ConversionGTR Vspec Diff GTR drive shaftsrear GTR 5 stud conversion front S15 5 stud conversion

Suspension and BrakesGreddy 6 Pot calipers with Greddy 355mm disc rotor (front)Greddy 4 Pot Calipers with Greddy 330mm disc rotors (rear)Tein CoiloversGTR brake master cylinder and brake boostercustom braided brake lines

Wheel's and Tyres'sVOLK ce28nfront: 18 X 8.5 +25 rear: 18 X 9.5 +22 front: Falken Azenis RT-615 semi slicks 245 rear: Falken Azenis RT-615 semi slicks 265 Ray's Wheel Nuts

Electronics Haltech MXL Street DashAPEXi V-AFCAPEXi RSMDefi Boost gaugeDefi Oil Temp gaugeDefi Oil Pressure gaugeDefi Control UnitAutoMeter air/fuel ratio gaugeGismo Launch control Gismo Shift LightGreddy remote nitrous switchGreddy remote boost switch

Launch Control SystemB & M LineLockerGissmo Launch Control / Anti Lag

Interior Bride Zeta III (Driver Side)Bride head rest Bride side protectorBride bottom protectorBride Euro II (Passenger Side)ORIGIN carbon fibre rear seats TRS Racing Harness Passenger & Driver sidehalf cageharness bar bacingNismo Gear knobD1 Removable Steering wheel hubType X floor mats

Exterior GP sports Body kit White with white pearl painted by DMD garage Type X tail lights with Black centre GarnishCarbon Fibre vented BonnetORIGIN Carbon Fibre Head Light CoversBlack RoofHid 4300k Headlight conversion kit















cant be bothered posting up all the photos if there are any photos of other modifications u would like to see just let me know and ill post them up

Modified by STR8E180 at 10:50 PM 9/15/2009

Modified by STR8E180 at 1:31 AM 9/16/2009
Modified by STR8E180 at 3:54 AM 9/16/2009


noobdrftr
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wow thats a nice list of parts you got there...how much do you think it will put down?

STR8E180
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would like to see around 450 - 470hp at the rear wheels

doesnt matter if i make it or not watever power it puts down im sure ill be happy with it

noobdrftr
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yea i know what you mean..whats the plan for the car?

STR8E180
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i would like to circuit race it and drive it around on the street here and there

cops are tuff on modified cars here so hope fully it doesnt get defected and taken of the road

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-RJ-
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Thats a nice setup you got. So why use the sr20ve head as opposed to the regular de? Im quite intrigued

STR8E180
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-RJ- wrote:Thats a nice setup you got. So why use the sr20ve head as opposed to the regular de? Im quite intrigued
Pic #1Pic#2Pic#3Pic#4Pic#5Here is a quick explaination of how the VVL valvetrain works. If you notice in pic#5 (The shaft in the center). This shaft runs through the head from one end to the other. This shaft does not spin and is staked by a small bolt at the cam gear side of the head. There is a Channel that runs the length of the shaft. The end of the shaft is blocked off. There are four feed holes, which are located at each rocker arm location. The rocker arms are located on a pair of valves. The other end of the rocker arm pivots on the shaft. Notice The "whole" or the channel the shaft runs through (Pic#1). As the solenoid(top of pic#5) is activated, there is a passage in the head that opens and allows the oil to pass through the shaft. At this point the oil passes through the feed wholes (Notice pic#2) into the rocker arms. This pushes the pin foward in the rocker arm. (notice pic#3) This locks the center part of the rocker arm which enables the center cam lobe. Notice pic #4. This engine works completely different than a DE. There are no "lifters" pushing the rocker arms up. The shaft is machined at the proper height for the rocker to swivel or rotate on. The lash adjustment is adjusted by the shims on top of the valves. This is a completely mechanical operating system. The only hydraulic part of this set up is the pin which enables the center part of the rocker arm to activate.

just to show u the difference in port size

this is a sr20det compared to a sr20v cylinder head


S133P3R
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-RJ- wrote:Thats a nice setup you got. So why use the sr20ve head as opposed to the regular de? Im quite intrigued
was there ever a SR20VE for RWD? alsowas there any modifications needed to the SR20DE block? do all the water jackets and stuff line up? looks like an amazing difference on the intake runners.

(sorry for the questions, the car looks awesome.)


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rico05
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WOW. That's all that can be said. Very well thought out and impressive build quality. Cheers!

STR8E180
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S133P3R wrote:
was there ever a SR20VE for RWD? alsowas there any modifications needed to the SR20DE block? do all the water jackets and stuff line up? looks like an amazing difference on the intake runners.

(sorry for the questions, the car looks awesome.)
there was neva any rear wheel drive sr20ve's the SR20VET found in the import X trails are 4WD but the engine layout is still east west

u need to block up one of the oil gallery's in the block because its no longer neededmost people tap a thread into the oil gallery and then plug it up with a fittingi welded mine up and then decked the block flat

then after that u just basically flow this guild http://www.sr20forum.com/sr20v....html


S133P3R
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what about the ECU? can you run a stock SR20DE ECU or do you need to run the SR20VE ecu?super cool project.

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xrproto07
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Gonna be a pretty sick 180 when done mate

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King Ranzo
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Damn. Can't wait to see this sexy 180 done.

STR8E180
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S133P3R wrote:what about the ECU? can you run a stock SR20DE ECU or do you need to run the SR20VE ecu?super cool project.
both the sr20de and sr20ve wont work for wat im going to be doing with the engine im using a haltech E11v2

S133P3R
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sorry im postinf from my phone and must have deleted the part where i said 'stand alone ecu?' lol. fyi -nissan had the first dohc with variable cams not honda. honda did have the sohc-vtec first but nissan so

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rustest86
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so far i like this thread alot, the whole vvl, turbo, and s13 in one package. i really like the idea of no lifters and not having to use rocker stoppers. my opinion the only design flaw of an SR. ive got a few questions though.

#1. the solenoid that that activates the pin for the larger cam lob is on the back of the head. im guessing you had to do some kind of cutout in the firewall or remote locating it, because there is no room for that thing to stick out like that in any s-chassis that i know of. what are you doing about it?

#2 theres no hole for the cam angle sensor in the side of the head, again its in the back off the head. what are you doing about that? or are you using some other type of triggering setup for the haltech?

i wonder how us poor people could do this without going standalone and have to get crazy with the fab work. maybe someone could do the rom tune path that would also have the driver to activate the vvl solenoid?!?!?! i know my emanage has the capability to control vtec why not vvl?im an outloud thinker sorry.

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chaosli
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would it be the same as using a later s14 and s15 sr20 i think they also have vvl

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rustest86
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Car: 93 240 coupe SR20DET Greddy T518Z, Tomei 256* poncams, sti injectors, and fmi
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um s14's and s15's had vtc totally different that vvl. vtc is variable timming control, meaning it can change the camshafts timming a few degrees retarded or advanced depending on the load and rpm. vvl is variable valve lift, pretty much the same as hondas Vtec. imagine if we could combine the 2 on an SR though....... i know toyota and honda have this as VVTI and I-Vtec

STR8E180
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rustest86 wrote:so far i like this thread alot, the whole vvl, turbo, and s13 in one package. i really like the idea of no lifters and not having to use rocker stoppers. my opinion the only design flaw of an SR. ive got a few questions though.

#1. the solenoid that that activates the pin for the larger cam lob is on the back of the head. im guessing you had to do some kind of cutout in the firewall or remote locating it, because there is no room for that thing to stick out like that in any s-chassis that i know of. what are you doing about it?

#2 theres no hole for the cam angle sensor in the side of the head, again its in the back off the head. what are you doing about that? or are you using some other type of triggering setup for the haltech?

i wonder how us poor people could do this without going standalone and have to get crazy with the fab work. maybe someone could do the rom tune path that would also have the driver to activate the vvl solenoid?!?!?! i know my emanage has the capability to control vtec why not vvl?im an outloud thinker sorry.
all i had to do was take the lip of the fire wall and i had enuff clearance for the crank angle sensor and solenoid

if ur using a P11 SR20VE or SR16VE cylinder head u can use a relocation block like this this isnt realli needed for the P12 which iam using


Modified by STR8E180 at 11:12 PM 9/15/2009

S133P3R
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wow. this thread f***ing rocks. do a lot of people in NSW /AUS have this modification done?

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rustest86
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ok, when you say p11 and p12 your refering to the chassis code for the primera, right? how can you tell the difference between the 2 engines out of the car? what are the major visual differences? are those heads easy to come by over there in australia? beacause i couldnt even find any on ebay. reason im asking is im serously thinking about this now, as i think it would be great on a nice mild build, say 260-300hp, and have a awsomely wide powerband.

so far though it looks easy enough and im gonna be watching this thread very closely

STR8E180
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S133P3R wrote:wow. this thread f***ing rocks. do a lot of people in NSW /AUS have this modification done?
not many people do this conversion back in australia there are maybe 10 or so people i know of under going the conversion right now as well its not a cheap upgrade if u want to do it rightbut another way to look at is like this by the time u do a solid lifter conversion, upgrade cam shafts, port work, adjustable cam gears, valve springs, retainers and all that sort of stuff it all adds up to alot of money if u buy a sr20ve cylinder head u dont need to do any of that stuff (i did because i want to rev the cylinder head pass 9000rpm and im looking at making a stupid amount of power so i thought i may as well do all the upgrades now while im going threw a rebuild saves me from having to pull the cylinder head of later on)the cylinder head in standard form will still out match a full worked sr20det cylinder head with all the upgrades even a ported sr20det cylinder head wont be able to match a sr20ve standard head with standard ports

where the extra cost come into play is the ecu and fabrication work there are no after market parts for the sr20ve cylinder heads so every thing needs to be custom u will need a custom plenum camber because the standard sr20ve plenum cambers face the wrong way when u mount them in a rear wheel drive setup the throttle body ends up facing the fire wall so a custom plenum will need to be made also the exhaust flange is slightly different u can modify a sr20det flange to suit but its better to just get a custom made one like i have then there is the ECU and wiring which needs to be dealt with as well
rustest86 wrote:ok, when you say p11 and p12 your refering to the chassis code for the primera, right? how can you tell the difference between the 2 engines out of the car? what are the major visual differences? are those heads easy to come by over there in australia? beacause i couldnt even find any on ebay. reason im asking is im serously thinking about this now, as i think it would be great on a nice mild build, say 260-300hp, and have a awsomely wide powerband.

so far though it looks easy enough and im gonna be watching this thread very closely
yeah P11 and P12 is the chassis the P12 model SR20ve has some upgrades

visually they also look different the P11 looks very similar to a S13 non VCT sr20 engine it just has a neo VVL badge on the rocker cover where as the P12 rocker cover looks different all together and it has the neo VVL on the coil pack cover

P11 SR20ve

P12 SR20ve

there are also some other difference's

the P11 runs 2 solenoid one for the intake cam and one for the exhaust cam and they can switch different times where as the P12 runs 1 single solenoid and both cams switch over at the same time like a honda but u can also tune the p11 to switch over at the same time with ur ECU tuningOR u can use the P12 solenoid on the P11 cylinder head this is wat most people do because the P12 solenoid clears the fire wall and u wont need to use a relocation kit like the one i posted above

the P12 also runs a crank angle sensor where as the P11 uses a dizzy with spark plug leads if ur going to do a cylinder head conversion and ur putting the cylinder head onto a rear wheel drive sr20 block u will need the P12 crank angle sensor because these will clear the fire wall where as the P11 dizzy clearly wont

other differences are the cam shaft the P12 has SR20ve has a bigger cam shaft with more duration and lift the P12 SR20vet has the smallest cam shaft and doesnt have VVL on the exhaust cam which is why i swapped them over for the P12 SR20ve cam shaft the sr20vet also has different rocker arms on the exhaust cam so to use a P12 sr20ve exhaust cam u also need the rocker arms as wellif u check my specs list it says P12 SR20ve cams and sr20ve rocker arms this was how i got the VVL on both intake and exhaust

another change between the 2 are the portsthe P12 has slightly different port angles and it also has different flange plates

the P11 cylinder heads arnt very easy to come by because most wreaking yards dont want to split the cylinder head from the engine block because the blocks are useless with out the heads so u normally have to buy the whole engine ` if ur lucky enuff u can get a cylinder head on its own i was lucky enuff to track one down for a customer and the cylinder head alone cost $1300 AUSa whole engine is worth around $2200they use to be cheaper but the dollar went down i remember i found a whole engine for $1600 B4 the money turned to s*** and became worth less

the P12 sr20ve forget about it they are so rare and very hard to findi couldnt even find one which is why i bought a SR20VET from an X trail (import) and then bought the P12 SR20ve cams from nissan brand new and tracked down a set of 2nd P11 sr20ve rocker arms by swapping these parts over ive converted my sr20vet cylinder head into an exact P12 sr20ve

note: both P12 SR20ve and X trail SR20VET share the same exact casting cylinder head P11 SR20ve and SR16ve share the same casting cylinder head but its different compared to the P12

also ur comment about the powerband not only do these cylinder heads rev harder and make more power its the use-able power band u gain is the best thing about them because they have a low and high setting it makes it so much more responsive down low

also dont forget some modification need to be done to the block for this cylinder head to work some poeple tap a thread into the oil gallery and block it of



i didnt want to go with this option instead wat i did was weld up the oil gallery and then surface milled it flatas u can see in this picture u can barely see the oil gallery any more

bottom left oil gallery

also both the SR20ve from the P11 and P12 have a better oil pump compared to the SR20DET so when doing the cylinder head conversion we swap over to the sr20ve oil pump it also makes it more easy to use the sr20ve oil pump because the timing case cover is bolted to the cylinder head





u will need to do some modification to use this oil pump because the oil pump is part of the timing case cover u need to mill the back of ur balancer to clear the timing case coveri didnt want to mill the back of my balancer so i machined down the gear which drives the timing chain behind the oil pump to space it out and give me enuff clearance



ur luck ive gone threw it all and know wat needs to be done when going threw this conversion the 1st time it was all learning and figuring out wat needs to be done which took up time
Modified by STR8E180 at 11:41 PM 9/15/2009

S133P3R
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sounds like a similar process that can be done on honda engines actually to swich from non- to a vtec head. ill check into you link from above cuz im sure most of it is covered in there. do you have any links to videos of cars running this setup? im really curious what it sounds like when you hit vtec YO! seriously' videos please.

STR8E180
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S133P3R wrote: do you have any links to videos of cars running this setup? im really curious what it sounds like when you hit vtec YO! seriously' videos please.
SR22VET mazworx

11,000rpm rev limithttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2dDQqRMpGkhttp ... -rsn2YZBgM

mazworx 7 second passhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gLhtONrO3ohttp ... V1s-xt0FTg

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rustest86
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all i gotta say is WOW oh my god can anybody say crotch rocket. thats gotta be the fastest revving SR ive ever seen. thats scary fast, 7 seconds, my god. im hoping for a consistant 12-11ish but 7....... id prob crap my pants going down the track that fast. and if anybody dosent think that its "THAT" fast, that car ran 7.37@161mph your average car has a 0-60 time of about 6-8 seconds. and the new GTR musters a 11.5@120mph.

on a side note with the timming cover thing theres one difference i hope you've seen too. the timming pin is in a different spot its about 15* off. i ran a fwd pump for a long time till i did my metal head gasket then i changed to the rwd pump to be safe. in fact i have a second tdc mark on my crank pulley just for that. and i get exactly what your talking about a built head vs this swap. the stock SR head is almost a joke i mean come on this is a performance enigine with rockers and lifters? i mean $h!t the KA24de has a better valve system, straight from the CA18de and RB's. and i not knocking the KA, i was KA-T and thats a torque monster, but there ant nothing like that SR. its just sad, the KA cant rev because of the long stoke, the SR cant rev because of the crappy valve train. and then a built head isnt DD material, all the constant checking and adjusting. thats race engine stuff, i drive mine every day, i dont have time for that.

so the easy way would be a p11 head with p12 cas and solenoid with either timming cover and some kind of managment system.but really though this dosent look like its that hard of a swap, its just like doing an LS-Vtec which ive helped do and thats cake. mainly this is an issue of engine managment and locating the parts. im really looking to see if my emanage can do the vvl/vtec when setup on a nissan. that would be the ticket.

S133P3R
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STR8E180 wrote:
SR22VET mazworx

11,000rpm rev limit

mazworx 7 second pass
7 seconds! are you f***ing kidding me! that car disappeared at the line as soon as the light dropped. OMFG, IM IN LOVE! that head swap is sooo bad a**.

op-is this car stateside or in AUS? i woudl pay to see that thing rip at 11000rpm any day.

and rustest86 was right about the engine differences....


STR8E180
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^ LOL now u guys understand why im going threw all this

yeah its mostly getting all the right parts

if ur going to do the cylinder head conversion work out wat ur going to do with it 1st if ur building a non turbo engine try and get ur hands on the sr16ve because they have a big huge cam shaft in them they are 1.6L but they share the same bore size just different stroke so the combustion camber is the same but if ur going to build a turbo charged engine try and get ur hands on the sr20ve because the cams dont have as much over lap and is more suited for a turbo charged enginesr20ve cams are suited for some thing around the size of a GT3076sr16ve cams are suited for some thing like a GT42 so they are great for drag racing maxworx 7 second car is using the SR16 N1 cam shaft which is only suited for huge turbos because of there amount of over lap

if u wat all the different cam shaft specs for each different engine let me know i got them here

try get ur hands on the P11 sr20ve cylinder head and then a P12 crank angle sensor u have 2 options for the solenoid's u can use a relocation block like the one i posted above or u can use a P12 solenoid and modify it to fit

if u do go for the conversion i can help u along the way if u run into any thing but i think i covered every thing

we do alot of development with sr20 engines we make all our down exhaust manifolds, plenums and all that sort of stuff

u might want to have a read of this topic its a our S14 parts development car basically all the new products we release get tested on this car b4 it gets released onto the market its run a best time of 11.8 and it still retains all its standard internals including cam shafts

http://hardtuned.net/forums/in...82765
Modified by STR8E180 at 9:35 AM 9/16/2009

STR8E180
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S133P3R wrote:
7 seconds! are you f***ing kidding me! that car disappeared at the line as soon as the light dropped. OMFG, IM IN LOVE! that head swap is sooo bad a**.

op-is this car stateside or in AUS? i woudl pay to see that thing rip at 11000rpm any day.

and rustest86 was right about the engine differences....
this car is from the states

now u understand how much better this cylinder head is compared to ur normal sr20det cylinder heads

that 7 second S15 specs can be found here



*copy and paste*



DRY SUMP



Alot of custom fab on this car. All of it done at Mazworx!



Notice the VVL head. Long tube header for maximum horsepower.



160 lb/hr injectors x12



Showing off the craftsmanship on the intake. Everything o-ringed so it's easily reused.



Carbon/Carbon tubes and panels.



Mazworx/PRL Racing Pro Modified Drag S15

NDRA Pro ModifiedSR22VE-T

Engine------

Mazworx Build SR22VET90.0mm 11:1 CR CP Pistons86.0mm OEM Nissan CrankshaftMazworx Custom ALuminum Connecting RodsCalico Coated ACL Race BearingsDarton SleevesAviaid Dry Sump PumpMazworx Dry Sump Oil PanATI 7" DampnerMazworx/Power Enterpise 90mm HeadgasketMazworx 1/2" HeadstudsMazworx CNC Ported Cylinder HeadMazworx CNC Combustion ChambersSupertech Valetrain w/ Inconel Exhaust ValvesNissan SR16VE N1 CamsMazworx Custom Shimless VE HeadTomei Cam Gears

Power-----Fuel-MethonalMazworx Custom Intake ManifoldOEM Nissan Q45 Throttle BodyMazworx Silicone CouplersGarrett GT4508R 1.44A/RMazworx Divided Exhaust ManifoldTial 60 Wastegate5" Stainless Downpipe6" Turbo IntakeMechanical Fuel Pump12 x 160lb Fuel Injectors

Electronics-----------Motec M880 ECUMotec CDI 8 IgnitionMotec ADL Dash LoggerCustom Engine/Body HarnessMotec Complete Data AquistionDenso CoilsMSD/KONI Shock Controller16 Volt System

Drivetrain----------RAM Dual 7" Slipper ClutchBrowell Aluminum BellhousingG-Force 2000 TransmissionCustom 4" Aluminum DriveshaftStrange Pro 3rd MemberStrange Spool w/ 40 Spline Gun Drilled AxlesAmerican Racing 15 x 15 Double Bead Lock Rear WheelsAMerican Racing 15 x 3-1/2 Spindle Mount Front WheelsGoodyear 32.0 x 14.5 x 15 Rear TiresGoodyear 23.0 x 5.0 x 15 Front Tires

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Koshin
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wow, what an impressive build....are you gonna race the car or what? road race I mean btw...it rocks y0

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rustest86
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Location: Lake Charles, LA

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that is one sweet a$$ s15....... 2.2l of vvl turbo goodness..... man i havent been this excited about my 240 since i bought my 240.im as gitty as a japanese school girl......loli thought about doing this when i was rebuilding my motor but ran into the whole " its a fwd so it wont work" thing so i never looked any further into it. but yea this would be perfect for me as im not looking for peak #'s but a usable broad powerband. my driving style mainly uses 1st-3rd unless im crusing, just beacuse theres no low end. and yes i would do turbo all the way, im not an NA guy. i have a perfectly sized turbo for up to 350ish and all the other support mods other than injectors right now. and i have those maxed out now.machanicly you could bolt the head on and still run without the vvl untill a managment system can be bought. see im looking at this as how can i do this on a decent budget so everyone else could maybe benefit from it and not require having sponsors or massive wallets. not all of us want 450-500hp monstors, most of the guys on here are like me and want DD usable power. im sorry to say but 350hp or more is an awfull handfull in any street drivin s-chassis, more than most drivers capabilities anyway.anyone have a sr20ve head they want to get rid of??????


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