Guys, what am I missing here? No crank, instrument panel doesn't light up. The button stays at LOCK, doesn't move to ACC or ON.

I had another engine replacement project and got it running. On Friday evening, I cruise around the neighborhood to warm the engine then slide back into my garage. I turn the car off by button, shut the door and then I open it again to do something in the car. It's at this point I realize the button is dead. Again, this car has been running for a considerable amount of time.

I still have some parts from my part out which I swapped in in different combinations. They were all working when the other car was parted out so I figured I would use this for troubleshooting.

• iKey module
• key fob slot
• push button
• BCM
• ECU or ECM
• IPDM
• Gauge cluster and the PDU behind it
• keyless entry module
• I have checked all the relevant fuses and relays (driver kick panel & around battery)
• Battery is good and up to that moment on Friday it had started the car predictably at the first attempt every single time.
• The remote function of the fob still works to open the doors, windows and trunk.
• Headlights/horn etc seem to be OK

The car still won't respond. When I insert the wrong key fob, it will have a little delay but eventually say KEY ID : NO, as expected
The security light on the dash (by the climate control buttons) keeps blinking



So, here is what stumps me. After changing the key slot, start button, intelligent/ smart key module, BCM, ECM, IPDM and the key itself; I am in effect running a different car. In my mind, this should just behave like a car that has been sitting off for a while, right?
Otherwise, replacing just the iKey requires re-registering the key fob. And when I change all the electronics from the donor car, the car gives me the same icon and is unresponsive; which tells me that yes, the car is actually seeing the components as a new car but there is another angle to the issue that I'm missing




I have sifted through the threads I found most relevant, and will post them below, although my symptoms are slightly different:
1. topic617547.html
2. post6735348.html

And of course, the FSM:
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... M45-M35/bl

I'm not too familiar with the key system on this car but if it's anything like the 4th Gen Maxima's (particularly the 99's up) then maybe something like the NATS system has malfunctioned? I don't know where that was stored in the Maxima (I believe the key and another spot) but basically the car went into self-preservation mode in the sense that it wouldn't allow the car to fire up. I had to have it towed to Nissan, paid $84 and they reprogrammed the key (not the fob) to the car.

Since we don't technically use a key on this car, I'm not sure this applies but in 7-8 years I'm not sure Nissan/Infiniti stopped using a form of this system.

Might be sending you down a rabbit hole but that's all I got...

Yeah, it definitely sounds like one of the parts you replaced isn't having a good handshake with some other security device that was not replaced. This sounds like it's not going to be fun. Wish I could help, but I've never dug this deep into an M.

Thanks guys. It makes sense that something isn't liking my key - it is being recognized because the car knows when I've put in the wrong one, just won't let me do anything with the start button.
That's why I decided to replace every single computer related to the starting process, but still nothing!

Unless I somehow killed both iKey modules by looking at them wrong?

To complete the project you'd have to move in the steering lock module too; or else you have to do key registration/programming to sync the present module with all the items you've brought in to adapt to the car.

Costee, good to hear from you. Long time, I hope things are going well.

Good call on the steering lock module. I replaced my steering column (with the module of course) recently to fix a loose/ jiggly steering wheel. It had a lot of play diagonally 8 - 2 o'clock.
So, I thought about it, but I convinced myself that it was just an actuator that did as told, not one that communicated/stored serial numbers.

As mentioned above, that's probably what isn't sending a proper handshake with the "new" components.
Right after replacing the steering column, I started the car and drove it around, so I didn't think anything I had changed was the issue.
I will plug the old steering lock module back in along with the original modules and try it again then report.

Thank you for the ideas

The reason you had a seamless transition when you changed your steering lock module (with the steering column) was because the replacement was a new unused unit. If it had been a used unit it would have been necessary to reprogramme the key. The steering lock unit does in fact, to use your words, stores serial number, namely the pin code generated from the BCM to programme the key. A change in any of the following: ECM, BCM, Steering lock unit, Intelligent Key module, and the key fob, requires key programming. The steering lock unit in the car even though installed new is not in sync with the ECM, BCM, and the I-Key module you have now introduced to the car (from another source).
"I will plug the old steering lock module back in along with the original modules and try it again." Please do.
PS. You might have to retain the I-Key module. The remote function of the key fob will not work with the donor module, except of course you're using the fob from the donor car.

See, that is the odd part. I bought a used column from ebay and the car started... only that one time though, because after my drive I turned it off and it hasn't come back on again.

Do you think this was a fluke with a delay of the security system?

I'll be home shortly to jump in the car.

Well, consider this solved.
I connected the steering lock module from the damaged column and sure enough, the car was happy. It starts again.

Thank you for offering the clarity of mind Costee. I'll chalk up my successful first start to a slip-up of the electronic gods.

No slip-up buddy, but a mischievous red herring. All's well that ends well. Case closed

BTW - I had this same issue with my wife's M35X this week. Found in the internet that it is an Electronic Steering Column Lock (ESCL) issue. I tapped it with a screwdriver while pushing the key, and it started up.
Apparently replacing that unit is a bear, and expensive. $1200 for the part from Infiniti, and $400 for install. I have also found links on Nissan chat sites to disable the lock to prevent its eventual failure. Infiniti will act like they have no idea what that is, or that they never see that problem. That is complete BS. It is a known issue, that they are grappling with across Ifninti and Nissan.
Let you know how that goes.

Hey Mental, I wouldn't say it's very common to our platform, so I have no doubt the car will die before the key acts up again.
In my case, I had overlooked the steering lock's connectiom, assuming it got a go signal from elsewhere and not the key fob directly.

Please keep us updated with your fix.
[I'll add to my thought in the other thread you posted in - 2007-m35-won-t-start-t613922.html]

EdBwoy - I've had to tap the ESCL a few times now to get it started. The part arrived to do the patch, but the connectors were for the Nissan 370, and not quite the same. Wish someone had the wire diagram for this so I could just execute the wire cut fix to kill the ESCL motor.

So, I'm looking at about $1100 for have it replaced and reprogrammed.
Cheers,
Mental

The wiring diagram is available in the FSM. The link is in my signature below.

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:33 am

The wiring diagram is available in the FSM. The link is in my signature below.

Wonder if anyone saved the FSM since they're not hosted anymore.

FlawleZ wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:20 am

...

Wonder if anyone saved the FSM since they're not hosted anymore.

I sure hope so, for individual owners especially. I have a lot of my current, former and wishlist vehicles covered.

so I have a 07 m35 steering lock module malfunctioned I have purchased a new module but have yet to have it put on, after reading these post it looks as if I will have to have it reprogrammed because I bought it used. I noticed that it did not come with the new breakaway bolts looks like I will have to order those as well.