04 AUTO stuck in 2nd...need some help here guys!

[BrandAidDesignG35]

Uhhh... OK, so I wake up to go to work, start the car to let it warm up, wait for GF to get slack *** outside, I put in in reverse, and she kinda bucked on me, I found when I started going in Drive, it seemed to be caught in 2nd gear, I went out on my way anyway, GF in a rush. ( ) so, I got on the main street and noticed the RPM climbing, climbing, I wanted to cry, it was stuck in 2nd.

I'm worried I may need a new transmission, what should I do? I need some ideas, or I may try and trade it in now, on a 6mt... WHAT'S GOING ON HERE???

thanks in advance guys (& gals) I'm so upset, it's kinda shocking for this to happen. Also notice some clicking noises when accelerating from a stop or crawl. Thanks. Grant

[zozoka1212]

Have you tried the manual shifting? Is it feel like stock with the shifter or electrically. You can disconect your battery and it might work. If the shfter stock you can try to hit the lock on it.

zozo

[joe603]

If under warranty get it to the dealer ASAP. Try shifting in manual mode or DS mode.

I'm not a transmission guy... I'm going to edit your thread title so you can get a better response.

[Sentientbydesign]

This never happens with the 6mt!!! lol

Sorry BAD,

I'd try the options listed above. Start by disconnecting your battery for 10 mins or so. If that doesn't work, try the DS. If that doesn't work...I don't know.

[Jacko3]

As for the clicking noise, it maybe your rear axle spline. Take it to dealershipso that they can repack the rear axles with lots of grease. There is a TSB on the clicking noise issue.

[BrandAidDesignG35]

Zozo, that was my first instinct, I did try but it wouldn't switch gears... only to 1st if I came to a crawl... I didn't have any tools to reset ecu, but I did pull over, and shut it off for a min or two, turned over no problem and got me in town with ease, this is only going to get worse, but I went out at lunch again, with no problems...

Thinking it may be the selector forks or maybe one of the gears is damaged? I dunno, I'm no transmission guy either. But, if I could just swap in a 6mt, might be worth the headache, or like I said, trade before it's too late, I feel either could be a win win. Keep you posted with the results of my daily commute

[joe603]

But, if I could just swap in a 6mt, might be worth the headache, or like I said, trade before it's too late, I feel either could be a win win.

Unfortunately it isn't cost effective to swap the AUTO for a 6MT. You're better of fixing the AUTO and selling....or find a sucker (like a dealer )

[etschell]

most likely its your gear selector/shifter. this happened to my volvo a few years ago. it has a limp home mode that keeps it in 2nd gear. it was doing the same thing, starts in second gear, idles in second gear and has really low acceleration. except with the volvo my check slip light was coming on so i knew it was slipping gears.

[BrandAidDesignG35]

One other thing I would note, is it I'm in Manual mode, switching from 4rt to 5th, it will rev up nearly 400 rpm before settling into 5th, it will then rev down below where 4rth was.

Unfortunately it isn't cost effective to swap the AUTO for a 6MT. You're better of fixing the AUTO and selling....or find a sucker (like a dealer )

I may skip fixing and just go for a sucker dealer with a 6mt... maybe the jerk who sold me mine

[G_whizz]

Hmmm... that seriously sux!!

Hopefully our new member "Stevthetech"

http://forums.g35club.org/zero...03702

Will chime in and give you a hand!!

[infinitgkid]

I'm not a transmission guy...

Oh gosh, I'd hope not... lol I couldn't help myself

But seriously, I'd def take it to the dealer ASAP and get that clicking sound taken care of too...

I have a similar clicking sound coming from the rear of my G but the nearest infiniti dealership is 3 hours away

I'm contemplating on whether I'll make the trip one weekend or if I should wait till thanksgiving break and take it back home to SC to get it fixed over my thanksgiving break... kinda depends on how serious the problem is...

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

That sux take it to The Dealer Fast... at least let them tell you what is wrong!

then go somewhere else and trade it in if bad!

DJ

[tollboothwilley]

Sorry to hear that man. Not a fun day.

The problem seems to be hit and miss...makes me think it might be electronic, maybe the TCU.

DO you have a power cap on your stereo?

I've heard of autos that had issues with trannies skipping on them when they crank the tunes. Power cap and gel cell battery are a must!

where is the clicking sound coming from? Is it from underneath the car, or to the back? If its underneath, it could very well be the gears of the transmission grinding some teeth.

[SteveTheTech]

It certainly sounds like you are in fail safe, now you said that it accelerates without issue about 2,000RPMs? Are you check engine light or AT check light on? Are you still covered under warranty? Do you have any electrical modifications?Have you been having any other problems recently?

I cannot give you a fair assessment of the situation now other than to repeat that you should get it to the dealer ASAP if you are still covered by warranty.

If not than there are a few things I can instruct you on checking to locate your fault and get a rough idea of what will be required to fix it.

Oh and the clicking noise may be you rear axles, I am sure there's a thread on that here somewhere here it's been an issue since the G came out. If it only happens when you first accelerate or when going from reverse to drive that's what it is. Much less of an issue at this point than the transmission problems. The short of it the axles need to be lubed and re torqued.
Modified by SteveTheTech at 8:36 PM 9/9/2008

[BrandAidDesignG35]

Thanks guys, The clicking is from the back John, and I am pretty sure it's coming from the axels as Steve mentioned, the pointers on the stereo seem fairly likely, as I have noticed it missing from time to time when listening to something really loud.

Also to note from the electrical standpoint... I have the crappy ebay grounding set, and it's all tied to one location, I've heard this can cause electrical issues as a resutl... looking at SBD kit in the future, hopefully will help.

Also on the electronics... The shop that put my exhaust on didn't connect my rear grounding wire when the put on the Greddy Evo2.

I have a CEL from time to time, always throwing EVAP-Large... been like that since the exhaust install

I know that everytime I go crazy installing things on my cars, problems seem to arise... Mods, it's a damn disease I swear, but I know a few others here have it too Thanks guys, I'll let you know how the commute goes tomorrow, I should mention, it was fine all day since it happened.

EDIT* Oh, I have an amp with a 10" sub, 4 gauge wires, my cap is sitting in my closet and I'm still using the stock OEM battery

Thanks for all the pointers guys, I'll take it to my mechanic and see whassup.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

They have a mind of their own lol!

Good luck with the commute and next time get a 6mt and avoid all these problems lol!

DJ

[SteveTheTech]

Ok where to start lol. First is the ground kit tied into your main harness(inside the car)? Have you removed ANY grounds or power supply wires ? Have they been cut or altered during your modification?

Since you seem to have an intermittent issue it is highly likely that it will be an electrical issue. Most likely a CAN code or something similar where communication is lost between the ECM and TCM.

Also when running the 4 gauge power wire did you puncture the main wiring harness large rubber seal behind the IPDM and battery?

The ground strap missing from your rear sub frame to the exhaust is unlikely to cause this, however there is most likely a damaged or broken EVAP hose somewhere in the rear. I do not know if the Canadian spec cars have differing EVAP systems from US market ones but I do not think so.

[gwoods]

the problem is electrical or electrical related. Check ALL the wiring everywhere.

A loose wire can kill a car.

Also look on the side of the transmission where the cable connects to the gear selector. On my Hemi the 1st time I had the transmission apart I didn't get that nut on all the way and the selector slipped off and the transmission would not give me any gear?

[BrandAidDesignG35]

Ok where to start lol. First is the ground kit tied into your main harness(inside the car)? Have you removed ANY grounds or power supply wires ? Have they been cut or altered during your modification?

Since you seem to have an intermittent issue it is highly likely that it will be an electrical issue. Most likely a CAN code or something similar where communication is lost between the ECM and TCM.

Also when running the 4 gauge power wire did you puncture the main wiring harness large rubber seal behind the IPDM and battery?

The ground strap missing from your rear sub frame to the exhaust is unlikely to cause this, however there is most likely a damaged or broken EVAP hose somewhere in the rear. I do not know if the Canadian spec cars have differing EVAP systems from US market ones but I do not think so.

The shop that installed my shop did a terrible job installing, the "hole they punctured" caused water to leak into the car through the gromet... they've fixed it and given me some discounts etc. but I told them I still may go to court. If this is related they have a whole 'nother thing coming

Gwoods, you're scaring me with the "kill talk".

[BrandAidDesignG35]

Is it possible the ECU has water damage? Or should I yank the egay wire ASAP? both?

[SteveTheTech]

On the underside of the plug (harness plug behind the IPDM)is a super multi junction (SMJ) connector. This connector WILL effect engine and transmission performance especially if water intrustion is evident.

[BrandAidDesignG35]

I'm taking it in to Infiniti to get this issue looked at, if the problem started from the guys who installed the subs, would they be at fault? What would you all recommend I do from here? Take them to court?

It seems likely that it's electrical, it's been one problem after the other since they installed the sub setup. Thanks again guys

[G_whizz]

Absolutely they could be at fault!! Damn sorry to hear about this!!

If they were the cause of the problem, you will most likely have to eat the bill from Infiniti to fix this and go after the other company privately.

You must document EVERYTHING!!!

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

[joe603]

Yup...even if it is under warranty, if Infiniti discovers the problem is due to a faulty stereo install, you will have to pay for the work.

A lawyer might be a good idea...

[gwoods]

Gwoods, you're scaring me with the "kill talk".

A loose wire is the easiest kind of car problem to fix. On the Hemi if you don't get that connector that Steve the tech is talking about seated all the way when you start the truck ALL the gears highlight and you can't get it out of park

Sorry to say it dude but THIS is why I sold my truck and will not modify the G

[SteveTheTech]

This is a prime example of the good, the bad, and the ugly side of modification, especially anything electrical with a G.

I am not going to make a recommendation of what to do at this point due to the potential legal ramifications of getting involved with this.

Keep us up to speed on what the dealer tells you.

[tollboothwilley]

OK. Here's a test I want you to try out to see if its stereo related from drawing too much power. Disable the Subs completely for a day or two. As you drive around, see if the problem re-occurs.

(You need to install that power cap soon, and I recommend a battery upgrade)

If its stereo related, it normally happens during hard acceleration between gears 1,2, & 3 while the sound is cranked.

Good luck.

[BrandAidDesignG35]

I see the subs as a minor drain on battery life, not contributing to the negative transmission issues... not to say I won't take your advice, but I won't have the cash for any unnesessary purchases this week, maybe month... the cap I mentioned I have is fubared, so I need a new one. What battery would you suggest? Any suggestions are appreciated.

I think the install process could've caused water to mess with the electronics , as Stevethetech mentioned, it could be something like"harness plug behind the IPDM)is a super multi junction (SMJ) connector."

I will try the test (pulling the subs) and let you know how goes, also, I will mention the drive in to work today was fine, out for lunch again, and all seems to be OK.

Seems wierd, but it was also really wet the night before this happened I know I've touched on everything now, so it's going to be hard to diagnose via the forum, but I really appreciate all the help guys.

[SteveTheTech]

Sounds like water intrusion somewhere I would have to see some codes to be able to narrow it down to where it is.

[tollboothwilley]

Optima Yellow Top...

or the DieHard Platinum.

Those are the best two batteries out there, Optima has a great name but I went with the DieHard cuz it had the right connections and had higher reserve capacity and CCA

Check the rubber boot (you will need to remove all the plastic facia from battery up to windshield) where the wires go into the vehicle. See if there is indeed a path of water that could enter in here.