OK, I'll tell you about me first...28 year electronic technician / calibration certified; head diagnostic repair tech at a large auto repair shop. I have a pretty good handle on circuitry / wiring and automotive repair.

My ECU refuses to clear P1140 / P0505 DTC's that have been repaired.

1st step...(P1140) bought two new cam sensors from the dealer and installed them. Tried to clear DTC's with
Snap On's $6500 scanner...clears DTC's...and then seconds later, MIL light comes right back on.

2nd step...Checked both sensors for functionality...ground / pos 14.4V / 30Hz sine waves on both center pins...
R/R'ed both cam solenoids...cleaned / toggled them with 14.4v...BOTH work fine.

3rd step...checked for cam sensor signals directly at the ECU pins (B1- pin 73 / B2 - pin 74)...BOTH pins getting
30Hz sinewave...P1140 DTC WON'T STAY CLEARED FROM ECU.

4th step...swapped cam sensors with TWO more new ones from dealer...BOTH work fine, all voltages / signals
checked at ECU again...pins 73 and 74 both getting signals...P1140 DTC RETURNS INSTANTLY.

5th step...swapped B1's signal wire at ECU pin-73 to B2's place at pin 74...
swapped B2's signal wire at ECU pin 74 to B1's place at pin 73...
THE DTC FAULT SHOULD HAVE MOVED TO B2 AND CALLED FOR A NEW DTC P114x (IT DIDN'T)
...it still says fault P1140?!?

LET'S KEEP IN MIND THE CAR WORKS BEAUTIFULLY! There's no irratic idle, no power loss, or
"safe mode behaviors". Nothing's wrong with the car, BUT it won't clear the P1140 DTC!?!

6th step...I tried clearing the DTC's using the FSM procedure...
key on - wait 3 sec /
stomp pedal 5 times within 5 sec /
wait 7 sec /
press and hold down pedal 10 sec or longer /
it clears the DTC's / AND MIL LIGHT COMES RIGHT BACK ON?!?

P0505 DTC: I replaced the whole airbox and snorkel up to the throttle body with a high dollar aftermarket intake
system...sprayed the whole thing down with carb cleaner while it was running to check for a change in
idle (If I had a vacuum leak the engine would've raised in RPM)...NO LEAKS!...clear the DTC's...AND BAM,
MIL LIGHT P0505!

The car is fixed, works fine, but MIL light won't stay off! I even cleared the DTC's and removed power from the ECU...I left it unplugged (no power for 72 full hours)...hook it up, start the car, and BAM-O! MIL LIGHT!

The ECU is acting like it has solid state memory like a thumb drive or test equipment.

HOW EXACTLY DO YOU CLEAR THE ECU STORAGE MEMORY IN A 2002 Q45!?! I've never, ever, heard of a modern day car (2000 yrs+) with solid state memory that won't clear with a wipe AND powerloss.

Wow. I'm not sure what's going on there. I hate to suggest a different ECU, but it sounds like you're getting in to that territory. In our '05 G and '04 Frontier, I've had no problems clearing faults with a $3 ebay Bluetooth dongle and an app on my phone, so what you describe doesn't sound normal.

Found this thread... no final resolution, but maybe something in there will give you some new ideas?

p1140-code-mystery-t597196-30.html

Yep, we did the exact same things with no real resolutions. But thanks!

I'd like to suggest something to try and clear the codes by hopefully fixing the root cause(s). Assuming your oil level is correct and your oil not excessively dirty, let's go thru this.


Edit:
I'll leave this section here as a general thought process for posterity, but for your case I'd suggest you ignore these 3 points. I had misread your post initially as having replaced the intake AND throttle body.
A few questions here with regards to the throttle body:
1. What is your idle RPM at startup/ warm? Might you have noted what it was prior to the TB replacement?
2. Might you have done the Idle Air Volume Learning procedure? It doesn't hurt to do the Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning procedure either.
3. How are your cables, considerably loose/ tight? Very unlikely though, just keep this at the back of your mind. If the yellow paint marks on the tightening/securing nuts are aligned and facing up, don't worry.


And now to tie both codes to a common culprit before making any changes to the above items:
Might you have looked at the camshaft sensor and especially crank sensor? Visually inspect and do a grime wipe on both sensor and signal generator if necessary. You could also get technical and probe for signal if you please.
And you obviously know your way around the engine bay, but I'd like to give you this link to help you with the terminology. You technically haven't replaced the camshaft sensor yet.

So, I'd address the condition of those 2 sensors. Just disconnect battery again, do what you need to do to them, and restart the car. See if the codes pop up again.
Also, if you don't have info as to whether they have ever been replaced, you might as well just replace them. I hate replacing parts for the sake of it, but given what people usually face around 130K miles, and considering what you have already spent chasing the 2 codes, it is a rather small expense and good security.

Any updates on this issue?

bump