Well the instructions are pretty well useless since they are for a different pn completely. I know people have installed these, but no one seems to post exactly how. Maybe this will be the once and for all explanation that I've been looking for.
The s13's have an external coil so we don't need to rip apart the distributer to splice the trigger. I just need to know which wires go where.
I have the following wires available,
-Red Wire-Orange Wire-White Wire-Black Wire-Black and Grey wire that go to a plug -> <- which connects to plug with purple and green wire (I assume this is for the control knob; it also has purple and green wires)-Lastly Purple and green wires that go to a small connector. (I'm guessing this is for a hookup to a magnetic trigger or maybe for a link for a true MSD ignition.)
How to wire MSD BTM
-
WAbernethy
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 11:13 am
Assuming you have MSD PN 5462:red-goes to the positive side of the coilblack-any groundorange-replaces wire at neg side of coilwhite-goes to the wire that you take off the neg side of the coilblack and gray are for the control knobgreen and violet are for a magnetic pickup system, not used
I also needed a tach adapter (pn 8910) on my 90' model, so likely you will need it too. It just has two wires that splice in with the red and white wires.
Let me know how that thing works for you. I haven't had much luck with mine. It causes my car to misfire even with the knob at zero. The MSD tech guys had me check a bunch of stuff and then said that my gap must be too big (.032), they wanted me to gap them to .022-.025 to help "fix" the problem. I wound up just bypassing the thing until I get around to taking it out. I'm just going to sell it and hold out for a 6BTM.
I also needed a tach adapter (pn 8910) on my 90' model, so likely you will need it too. It just has two wires that splice in with the red and white wires.
Let me know how that thing works for you. I haven't had much luck with mine. It causes my car to misfire even with the knob at zero. The MSD tech guys had me check a bunch of stuff and then said that my gap must be too big (.032), they wanted me to gap them to .022-.025 to help "fix" the problem. I wound up just bypassing the thing until I get around to taking it out. I'm just going to sell it and hold out for a 6BTM.
-
sil80drifter
- Posts: 1313
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 5:53 am
- Car: 1990 240SX Hatch
-
WAbernethy
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 11:13 am
WDRacing wrote:You should have the gap set to .028 under boost. You may have a bad ground if its causing problems.
I can run .032 with the stock trigger wire and my Blaster coil, no problem. Once I hook in the BTM, it misses every now and then, boost or no boost. I did check the resistance from the spot where I grounded the BTM to a known good ground and it was good. Maybe I'll try moving it to see what happens. Having my timing retarded 5 degrees before the boost even comes on really sucks balls, I'd really like to get it working. This is one of the few things still holding me up from bumping the boost up(Anybody got an extra Z32 MAF?). I was kindof thinking that I may have gooten a bad unit but the MSD guy said that they usually just stop working alltogether.
-
PMan_S13
- Posts: 575
- Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2002 6:48 am
- Car: Building car -> breaking car -> fixing car -> start over
Got an email from the techs at MSD today, makes the white/orange wire splicing a little more clear,
"The original coil negative wire should be removed and connected to the white wire. It does not go back to the coil. The orange wire now goes to the coil negative."
Should be able to wire it up easily now, thanks
"The original coil negative wire should be removed and connected to the white wire. It does not go back to the coil. The orange wire now goes to the coil negative."
Should be able to wire it up easily now, thanks
-
superhoss37
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 5:21 pm
-
Craving4Boost
- Posts: 1495
- Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 10:44 am
- Car: 91 240sx fastback